stalling

1
Hello, I am having some trouble with "George" my 88 Syncro that I need to sort out pretty quickly before I have an accident and I am
hoping you good people might have an idea or 2.

She starts first time and within the first 10 minutes of driving she stalls and wont start until I wait 10 mins or I hold down the accelerator and crank for 30 secs or so.

She then starts with a lot of black smoke and is fine after that.
I changed the plugs but this didnt make any difference.

Just wondering if you have any ideas.
2

Gday Greg,
 
No easy answer for this, could be any one or more failing/worn engine compartment component/s causing this.
May I suggest you do some research in this forums archives as a place to start, use words in the search facility such as "afm", "catalytic converter", "earth", "ecu" and "vanagon syndrome". These may lead you to other relevant key words as well and by the end of your research, gleen some ideas of what to try, assuming you are a hands-on syncro owner.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: greg_navarro95@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 01:21:35 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] stalling

 
Hello, I am having some trouble with "George" my 88 Syncro that I need to sort out pretty quickly before I have an accident and I am
hoping you good people might have an idea or 2.

She starts first time and within the first 10 minutes of driving she stalls and wont start until I wait 10 mins or I hold down the accelerator and crank for 30 secs or so.

She then starts with a lot of black smoke and is fine after that.
I changed the plugs but this didnt make any difference.

Just wondering if you have any ideas.



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3
Check the switch adjustment on the throttle body.

Instructions are in the Bentley workshop manual.

Phill



> greg_navarro95 <greg_navarro95@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hello, I am having some trouble with "George" my 88 Syncro that I need
> to sort out pretty quickly before I have an accident and I am
> hoping you good people might have an idea or 2.
>
> She starts first time and within the first 10 minutes of driving she
> stalls and wont start until I wait 10 mins or I hold down the
> accelerator and crank for 30 secs or so.
>
> She then starts with a lot of black smoke and is fine after that.
> I changed the plugs but this didnt make any difference.
>
> Just wondering if you have any ideas.
4
Hi Greg,

My guess is the coolant temp sensor. Check the resistance hot and cold,
see how it matches up to the specs in Bentley.

Larry Hamm

greg_navarro95 wrote:
> Hello, I am having some trouble with "George" my 88 Syncro that I need to sort out pretty quickly before I have an accident and I am
> hoping you good people might have an idea or 2.
>
> She starts first time and within the first 10 minutes of driving she stalls and wont start until I wait 10 mins or I hold down the accelerator and crank for 30 secs or so.
>
> She then starts with a lot of black smoke and is fine after that.
> I changed the plugs but this didnt make any difference.
>
> Just wondering if you have any ideas.
>
5
Are there any problems with acceleration/deceleration so you can rule out a problem with fuel supply? Otherwise is the air flow sensor on the intake on tight? If you haven't already check all simple things first starting with all sensors,injector cables and if you find nothing wrong there maybe the wiser in this club can help out.
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Patlar@hughes.net
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 10:47:54 -0400
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] stalling

 
Hi Greg,

My guess is the coolant temp sensor. Check the resistance hot and cold,
see how it matches up to the specs in Bentley.

Larry Hamm

greg_navarro95 wrote:
> Hello, I am having some trouble with "George" my 88 Syncro that I need to sort out pretty quickly before I have an accident and I am
> hoping you good people might have an idea or 2.
>
> She starts first time and within the first 10 minutes of driving she stalls and wont start until I wait 10 mins or I hold down the accelerator and crank for 30 secs or so.
>
> She then starts with a lot of black smoke and is fine after that.
> I changed the plugs but this didnt make any difference.
>
> Just wondering if you have any ideas.
>


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6
> thank you for your suggestions. So far I have checked the throttle body adjustment, the coolant temperature sensor and the air flow sensor on the intake, and all check out ok. Just wondering what else I can check. I dont think its vanagon syndrome because it happens within 5 mins of starting from cold.

>
>
> Hi Greg
>
>
> My guess is the coolant temp sensor. Check the resistance hot and cold,
>
> see how it matches up to the specs in Bentley.
>
>
>
> Larry Hamm
>
>
>
> greg_navarro95 wrote:
>
> > Hello, I am having some trouble with "George" my 88 Syncro that I need to sort out pretty quickly before I have an accident and I am
>
> > hoping you good people might have an idea or 2.
>
> >
>
> > She starts first time and within the first 10 minutes of driving she stalls and wont start until I wait 10 mins or I hold down the accelerator and crank for 30 secs or so.
>
> >
>
> > She then starts with a lot of black smoke and is fine after that.
>
> > I changed the plugs but this didnt make any difference.
>
> >
>
> > Just wondering if you have any ideas.
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox Find out how here
> http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id=823454
>
7

Greg,  having had a similar problem with mine , the O- rings or gaskets of fuel injectors got replaced and Bingo never had a problem again. Hartmut

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of greg_navarro95
Sent: Thursday, 10 September 2009 9:19 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: stalling

 

 

> thank you for your suggestions. So far I

have checked the throttle body adjustment, the coolant temperature sensor and the air flow sensor on the intake, and all check out ok. Just wondering what else I can check. I dont think its vanagon syndrome because it happens within 5 mins of starting from cold.

>
>
> Hi Greg
>
>
> My guess is the coolant temp sensor. Check the resistance hot and cold,
>
> see how it matches up to the specs in Bentley.
>
>
>
> Larry Hamm
>
>
>
> greg_navarro95 wrote:
>
> > Hello, I am having some trouble with "George" my 88 Syncro
that I need to sort out pretty quickly before I have an accident and I am
>
> > hoping you good people might have an idea or 2.
>
> >
>
> > She starts first time and within the first 10 minutes of driving she
stalls and wont start until I wait 10 mins or I hold down the accelerator and crank for 30 secs or so.
>
> >
>
> > She then starts with a lot of black smoke and is fine after that.
>
> > I changed the plugs but this didnt make any difference.
>
> >
>
> > Just wondering if you have any ideas.
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox Find out how here
> http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id=823454
>

8

Tony Ricketts had similar problems when he was driving a newly acquired Syncro form Melbourne to Perth .  From memory, the symptoms were much the same.  It would be worth replacing the O rings all round as a first step.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Hartmut Kiehn
Sent: 11 September 2009 07:09
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: stalling

 

 

Greg,  having had a similar problem with mine , the O- rings or gaskets of fuel injectors got replaced and Bingo never had a problem again.

Hartmut

9

Side Window Seals

 

I need some new side window seals and find that the Bus Stop has them in Australia .  Their listed price of $51 each seems remarkably low.  Moulded rubber seals are usually frightfully expensive.   Does anyone have any knowledge of these seals?

 

Read Door Struts

 

My rear door struts have been deteriorating for years, making unloading anything from the rear a real pain.  I bought replacements form Struts Australia for $77 a pair, which is probably a quarter of genuine replacements.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Hartmut Kiehn
Sent: 11 September 2009 07:09
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: stalling

 

 

Greg,  having had a similar problem with mine , the O- rings or gaskets of fuel injectors got replaced and Bingo never had a problem again. Hartmut

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto: Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com ] On Behalf Of greg_navarro95
Sent: Thursday, 10 September 2009 9:19 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: stalling

 

 

> thank you for your suggestions. So far I have checked the throttle body adjustment, the coolant temperature sensor and the air flow sensor on the intake, and all check out ok. Just wondering what else I can check. I dont think its vanagon syndrome because it happens within 5 mins of starting from cold.

>
>
> Hi Greg
>
>
> My guess is the coolant temp sensor. Check the resistance hot and cold,
>
> see how it matches up to the specs in Bentley.
>
>
>
> Larry Hamm
>
>
>
> greg_navarro95 wrote:
>
> > Hello, I am having some trouble with "George" my 88 Syncro
that I need to sort out pretty quickly before I have an accident and I am
>
> > hoping you good people might have an idea or 2.
>
> >
>
> > She starts first time and within the first 10 minutes of driving she
stalls and wont start until I wait 10 mins or I hold down the accelerator and crank for 30 secs or so.
>
> >
>
> > She then starts with a lot of black smoke and is fine after that.
>
> > I changed the plugs but this didnt make any difference.
>
> >
>
> > Just wondering if you have any ideas.
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox Find out how here
> http://windowslive. ninemsn.com. au/article. aspx?id=823454
>

10

Just looked at their website again and the answer to the price might be that the side glass seals are not moulded but extruded.   The sliding door seal, which is moulded, costs $340, which is the sort of price to be expected.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Les_Harris
Sent: 11 September 2009 08:43
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Window Seals, Gas Struts

 

 

Side Window Seals

 

I need some new side window seals and find that the Bus Stop has them in Australia .  Their listed price of $51 each seems remarkably low.  Moulded rubber seals are usually frightfully expensive.   Does anyone have any knowledge of these seals?

 

11
Gday Les,
For rubber seals, check out http://busdepot.com/details/vanagonrubber.jsp . $US of course, but the exchange rate is improving.
I notice the sliding door seal is much cheaper ... trouble is it's the wrong hand. Shame about that.

I'd like to replace some or all of LH and RH front door window rubbers and channels on mine, in particular the top rubber channel as the rubber scraper part wears/tears off in due course and then the window starts rattling.
 
A hint to put off the evil day for replacing these rubbers that are falling apart. If rubber parts are in the process of wearing/tearing off, try running some superglue over the flex/wear/tearing points. Should hold together a bit longer. 
 
Anyone know cheaper sources for these rubber components, Oz or O/S? TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: leslieharris@optusnet.com.au
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 09:20:15 +1000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Window Seals

 

Just looked at their website again and the answer to the price might be that the side glass seals are not moulded but extruded.   The sliding door seal, which is moulded, costs $340, which is the sort of price to be expected.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Les_Harris
Sent: 11 September 2009 08:43
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Window Seals, Gas Struts

 

 

Side Window Seals

 

I need some new side window seals and find that the Bus Stop has them in Australia.  Their listed price of $51 each seems remarkably low.  Moulded rubber seals are usually frightfully expensive.   Does anyone have any knowledge of these seals?

 



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12
re
"as the rubber scraper part wears/tears off in due course and then the window starts rattling."
 
If you find that the window rocks back and forth loosely, when the window is fully or nearly down, on a front door,
the repair is simple.
Rather cheaply, there is a felt pad glued inside the door, adjacent to  where the aft edge of the window slides up and down.  This little piece is what makes the window not rock loosely back and forth, , when the window is lowered.
Those tracks don't extend down into the door very much, especially on the rear edge of the window.  This  felt pad is likely to be laying in the bottom of the door. Fish that out of there, glue it back where it belongs ( it's about 3/4 inch on a side, and square ) and you'll fix this 'loose window when it's down' syndrome. Scott
Oregon, USA
aka the 'Violent States of America'    or   'The Police States of America" - but we still get to play with vanagons and syncro's fortunately !
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 4:45 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Window Seals

 

Gday Les,
For rubber seals, check out http://busdepot. com/details/ vanagonrubber. jsp . $US of course, but the exchange rate is improving.
I notice the sliding door seal is much cheaper ... trouble is it's the wrong hand. Shame about that.

I'd like to replace some or all of LH and RH front door window rubbers and channels on mine, in particular the top rubber channel as the rubber scraper part wears/tears off in due course and then the window starts rattling.
 
A hint to put off the evil day for replacing these rubbers that are falling apart. If rubber parts are in the process of wearing/tearing off, try running some superglue over the flex/wear/tearing points. Should hold together a bit longer. 
 
Anyone know cheaper sources for these rubber components, Oz or O/S? TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
From: leslieharris@ optusnet. com.au
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 09:20:15 +1000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Window Seals

 

Just looked at their website again and the answer to the price might be that the side glass seals are not moulded but extruded.   The sliding door seal, which is moulded, costs $340, which is the sort of price to be expected.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Les_Harris
Sent: 11 September 2009 08:43
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Window Seals, Gas Struts

 

 

Side Window Seals

 

I need some new side window seals and find that the Bus Stop has them in Australia.  Their listed price of $51 each seems remarkably low.  Moulded rubber seals are usually frightfully expensive.   Does anyone have any knowledge of these seals?

 



Find out how here Get Hotmail on your iPhone

13

Ken,

 

Replacing the side window seals on mine has been made necessary because I had my windows out to correct the dimensional deficiencies of the flanges of the aftermarket sliding windows fitted by Trakka. The top corners had fallen in and allowed water to get in behind the seal and caused rust on the bottom sill.  The corners weren’t within cooee of the flat glass dimensions, so I built up the flanges with glass reinforced epoxy.  When I tried to reinstall the windows, I ran into a lot of trouble and managed to split the seal in several places on both sides.

 

Several days ago, I learned why.  I was talking to an automotive window man and he showed me the cord that he uses to pull the seal over the body flange.  It is soft nylon window sash cord, about 4 mm diameter – I had been using a hard polypropylene cord of about 2 mm diameter, hence the cutting of the seal. 

 

I am quite happy with the $51 quoted by The Bus Stop so I will go with them.  Like you, I will have to consider some of the other seals.  After 20 years, they tend to accept a deformed shape and I get some water intrusion on the driver’s door seal when it rains – a rare-ish event down here.

 

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: 13 September 2009 09:45
To: Oz syncro forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Window Seals

 

 

Gday Les,
For rubber seals, check out http://busdepot. com/details/ vanagonrubber. jsp . $US of course, but the exchange rate is improving.
I notice the sliding door seal is much cheaper ... trouble is it's the wrong hand. Shame about that.

I'd like to replace some or all of LH and RH front door window rubbers and channels on mine, in particular the top rubber channel as the rubber scraper part wears/tears off in due course and then the window starts rattling.
 
A hint to put off the evil day for replacing these rubbers that are falling apart. If rubber parts are in the process of wearing/tearing off, try running some superglue over the flex/wear/tearing points. Should hold together a bit longer. 
 
Anyone know cheaper sources for these rubber components, Oz or O/S? TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken

 

14

Scott,

 

Thanks for that piece of information.  My driver’s side door glass rattles when it is down and now you have told me why.  I will fix that when I do the side window seals.

 

Thanks

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Sent: 13 September 2009 09:57
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Window Seals

 

 

re

"as the rubber scraper part wears/tears off in due course and then the window starts rattling."

 

If you find that the window rocks back and forth loosely, when the window is fully or nearly down, on a front door,

the repair is simple.

Rather cheaply, there is a felt pad glued inside the door, adjacent to  where the aft edge of the window slides up and down.  This little piece is what makes the window not rock loosely back and forth, , when the window is lowered.

Those tracks don't extend down into the door very much, especially on the rear edge of the window.  This  felt pad is likely to be laying in the bottom of the door. Fish that out of there, glue it back where it belongs ( it's about 3/4 inch on a side, and square ) and you'll fix this 'loose window when it's down' syndrome. Scott

Oregon , USA

aka the 'Violent States of America '    or   'The Police States of America" - but we still get to play with vanagons and syncro's fortunately !

15
Gday Scott,
 
Not hard to tell which syncros have air conditioners that no longer work .... they are the ones with the wound down drivers side window! Hence the awareness of the rattling window pane.
 
Thanks for the timely hint ..... might save me a lot of bother with chasing new rubbers.
 
I'll report back how I faired with this ... 

Cheers.
 
Ken 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: leslieharris@optusnet.com.au
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 10:25:58 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Window Seals

 

Scott,

 

Thanks for that piece of information.  My driver’s side door glass rattles when it is down and now you have told me why.  I will fix that when I do the side window seals.

 

Thanks

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Sent: 13 September 2009 09:57
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Window Seals

 

 

re

"as the rubber scraper part wears/tears off in due course and then the window starts rattling."

 

If you find that the window rocks back and forth loosely, when the window is fully or nearly down, on a front door,

the repair is simple.

Rather cheaply, there is a felt pad glued inside the door, adjacent to  where the aft edge of the window slides up and down.  This little piece is what makes the window not rock loosely back and forth, , when the window is lowered.

Those tracks don't extend down into the door very much, especially on the rear edge of the window.  This  felt pad is likely to be laying in the bottom of the door. Fish that out of there, glue it back where it belongs ( it's about 3/4 inch on a side, and square ) and you'll fix this 'loose window when it's down' syndrome. Scott

Oregon, USA

aka the 'Violent States of America'    or   'The Police States of America" - but we still get to play with vanagons and syncro's fortunately !



Let us find your next place for you! Need a place to rent, buy or share?
16
I bought some widow scrapers a few years ago from VW and they were not very expensive. (They are the same as Golf)



> Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Gday Les,
>
> For rubber seals, check out
> http://busdepot.com/details/vanagonrubber.jsp . $US of course, but the
> exchange rate is improving.
>
> I notice the sliding door seal is much cheaper ... trouble is it's the
> wrong hand. Shame about that.
>
>
> I'd like to replace some or all of LH and RH front door window rubbers
> and channels on mine, in particular the top rubber channel as the rubber
> scraper part wears/tears off in due course and then the window starts
> rattling.
>
>
>
> A hint to put off the evil day for replacing these rubbers that are
> falling apart. If rubber parts are in the process of wearing/tearing
> off, try running some superglue over the flex/wear/tearing points.
> Should hold together a bit longer.
>
>
>
> Anyone know cheaper sources for these rubber components, Oz or O/S? TIA.
>
>
>
> Cheers.
>
>
>
> Ken
>
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: leslieharris@optusnet.com.au
> Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 09:20:15 +1000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Window Seals
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Just looked at their website again and the answer to the price might be
> that the side glass seals are not moulded but extruded. The sliding
> door seal, which is moulded, costs $340, which is the sort of price to
> be expected.
>
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les_Harris
> Sent: 11 September 2009 08:43
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Window Seals, Gas Struts
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Side Window Seals
>
> I need some new side window seals and find that the Bus Stop has them in
> Australia. Their listed price of $51 each seems remarkably low.
> Moulded rubber seals are usually frightfully expensive. Does anyone
> have any knowledge of these seals?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get Hotmail on your iPhone Find out how here
> http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id=845706
17
On Sep 12, 2009, at 10:57 PM, plander@optusnet.com.au wrote:

> I bought some widow scrapers a few years ago from VW and they were
> not very expensive. (They are the same as Golf)
>

You learn something new everyday. I know the window scrapers are being
reproduced and sold for a very reasonable price on Germany and now in
the US. I never thought to check if they are the same as the easier to
find Golf parts. I'll have to check that out. I assume same vintage
such as Mk 2 Golf (aka A2)?


BenT


>
18
. I'll have to check that out. I assume same vintage
> such as Mk 2 Golf (aka A2)?
>


No, Golf 1 ('74-'84)
19
On Sep 12, 2009, at 11:54 PM, plander@optusnet.com.au wrote:

> No, Golf 1 ('74-'84)
>


Ahhh... Not so common here anymore but had a longer run in RSA.

BenT
20
Les

Our rear door on the Caravelle is starting to sag - do you recommend purchasing replacement struts and installing (as maybe you did in your msg below for $77) or re-gasing?

Regards
Mark.

On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 8:43 AM, Les_Harris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Side Window Seals

I need some new side window seals and find that the Bus Stop has them in Australia. Their listed price of $51 each seems remarkably low. Moulded rubber seals are usually frightfully expensive. Does anyone have any knowledge of these seals?

Read Door Struts

My rear door struts have been deteriorating for years, making unloading anything from the rear a real pain. I bought replacements form Struts Australia for $77 a pair, which is probably a quarter of genuine replacements.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Hartmut Kiehn
Sent: 11 September 2009 07:09
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: stalling

Greg, having had a similar problem with mine , the O- rings or gaskets of fuel injectors got replaced and Bingo never had a problem again. Hartmut

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of greg_navarro95
Sent: Thursday, 10 September 2009 9:19 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: stalling

> thank you for your suggestions. So far I have checked the throttle body adjustment, the coolant temperature sensor and the air flow sensor on the intake, and all check out ok. Just wondering what else I can check. I dont think its vanagon syndrome because it happens within 5 mins of starting from cold.

>
>
> Hi Greg
>
>
> My guess is the coolant temp sensor. Check the resistance hot and cold,
>
> see how it matches up to the specs in Bentley.
>
>
>
> Larry Hamm
>
>
>
> greg_navarro95 wrote:
>
> > Hello, I am having some trouble with "George" my 88 Syncro that I need to sort out pretty quickly before I have an accident and I am
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> > hoping you good people might have an idea or 2.
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> > She starts first time and within the first 10 minutes of driving she stalls and wont start until I wait 10 mins or I hold down the accelerator and crank for 30 secs or so.
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> > She then starts with a lot of black smoke and is fine after that.
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> > I changed the plugs but this didnt make any difference.
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> > Just wondering if you have any ideas.
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