Scot, from start my intentions were not to cut into
anything which were put in by the factory, especially in
the front section. In retro, very little would have been
cut or bashed with a very big hammer, but one doesnt know
until the unit goes in. As the booster is fitted onto a
cast alu subframe and the frame is fitted into the car
structure, all i did was, elongating the 4 holes in the
subframe in order to slide it some 5 mm south taking the
booster with it. This way i got it in.
It took me ages to get all this
done partly because i am in way disabled as i can not
oversee the sequence of jobs, iow , i instal the subframe
, all done , just to find out i should have fitted the
booster to subframe first, this brain flaw has followed me
through live. Maybe, and because the pension being yery
mean, l now can register with the NDIS ?
Next job is getting the
w/screen out as rust is showing.
Btw do not rely on the booster
test as is pressing the pedal and starting the engine than
watching for the pedal going down a bit further. Mine did
that even when i had zero braking .
Sent from my iPad
Thanks for the advice Hart.
Did you have to cut out any metalwork to get it to
Any photos of the process?
Great to hear it worked so well.
Big red is back on the road again!
Hi Scot and All, here is another example why
the site can be quiet from time to time...took
me almost 4 days on and off to fit the E30 BMW
brake booster....in the end when all was
together i could not find the cable for the
fluid reservoir , had buried it under all the
stuff so had to take it apart once more.
Does it work ? Taking it out on to our quiet
road and braking like normal every loose item in
the cab came flying into the front ending up
between my feet and under the wind screen...
So all good but a real s... job
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting