Hi roger
Peter A here from geelong way. Just picked up a 1991 syncro and I have to replace front right hand outside cv boot, just a quick question do you have to pop out the ball joint so you can remove drive shaft or will it drop out if you undo inner cv as well. Any hints would be greatly appriciated, in the benley manual it makes reference to popoing out ball joint but wolfsburgs at geelong said that you can do the replacement without popping the ball joint.
cheers
Peter A
________________________________
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gullyraker@aol.com [Gullyraker@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, 26 May 2011 5:41 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] T3 wheel bearings
Just take the bearings down to the local bearing shop or engineers supplier and they will read the numbers stamped on them. You need to take both inner and outer races. The numbers are universal across all brands.
They can usually supply the seals as well - the dimensions are marked on them.
If the markings are unreadable they can measure them.
Always specify German bearings so you can sleep soundly at night. Dr. Porsche's ghost is a cranky bedmate.
You can tighten the hub nut with a long pipe slipped over the end of a socket handle. I use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 1.5 metre pipe and a 46 mm socket. The pipe lives in the van all the time and doubles as a lever and winch handle.
Weigh yourself, do the arithmetic, and work out how far from the center of the axle to mark the pipe to achieve the necessary tension. I like to think in pounds/feet because it's a lot easier for me to get my head around. Just go to a conversion chart to work it out.
Reef up the handbrake, slot the gearlever into low, chock the wheels, and tighten the nut as much as you can by hand.
Now get ready for some calisthenics. Tie up the cattle dog, put the beer down in the shade, and set up the spanner and pipe so that it is angled slightly uphill, [but not so steep that you can't stand on it]. Make sure that the socket is fully seated on the nut, put your foot on the mark and apply gentle pressure to hold it in place.
Take a deep breath, grip the roof gutters with your fingertips, yell Zundfolge!! and straddle the mark with both thongs.
When the nut is tight, hop up and down gracefully a couple of times. Make sure the kid's aren't looking in case you lose your stubbies.
Hop down, move the chocks, have a sip of beer, roll the van a couple of feet, then set it up and do it all over again, just to make sure. That will give the missus enough time to grab the camera. [If you win 'Funniest Home Videos' you might be able to afford a mechanic next time].
Check that the split-pin holes are lined up. You can always give it another bounce for luck. Bung in a new split pin, whack on the hub cap and you're ready to go.
I've been doing this for thirty five years and never lost a wheel, but for some reason I've had to move the mark on the pipe a few times.
One of nature's mysteries.
Another job done. Time for a beer.
Cheers, Roger [Beetle].
________________________________
This message is confidential and may contain proprietary or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, any use, interference with, disclosure or copying of the email or any part thereof (including any attachment), is prohibited and you should notify the sender and delete this email immediately. To the fullest extent permitted by law the Gordon accepts no liability for any loss or damage which may result from your receipt of this message or any attachments.
Peter A here from geelong way. Just picked up a 1991 syncro and I have to replace front right hand outside cv boot, just a quick question do you have to pop out the ball joint so you can remove drive shaft or will it drop out if you undo inner cv as well. Any hints would be greatly appriciated, in the benley manual it makes reference to popoing out ball joint but wolfsburgs at geelong said that you can do the replacement without popping the ball joint.
cheers
Peter A
________________________________
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gullyraker@aol.com [Gullyraker@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, 26 May 2011 5:41 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] T3 wheel bearings
Just take the bearings down to the local bearing shop or engineers supplier and they will read the numbers stamped on them. You need to take both inner and outer races. The numbers are universal across all brands.
They can usually supply the seals as well - the dimensions are marked on them.
If the markings are unreadable they can measure them.
Always specify German bearings so you can sleep soundly at night. Dr. Porsche's ghost is a cranky bedmate.
You can tighten the hub nut with a long pipe slipped over the end of a socket handle. I use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 1.5 metre pipe and a 46 mm socket. The pipe lives in the van all the time and doubles as a lever and winch handle.
Weigh yourself, do the arithmetic, and work out how far from the center of the axle to mark the pipe to achieve the necessary tension. I like to think in pounds/feet because it's a lot easier for me to get my head around. Just go to a conversion chart to work it out.
Reef up the handbrake, slot the gearlever into low, chock the wheels, and tighten the nut as much as you can by hand.
Now get ready for some calisthenics. Tie up the cattle dog, put the beer down in the shade, and set up the spanner and pipe so that it is angled slightly uphill, [but not so steep that you can't stand on it]. Make sure that the socket is fully seated on the nut, put your foot on the mark and apply gentle pressure to hold it in place.
Take a deep breath, grip the roof gutters with your fingertips, yell Zundfolge!! and straddle the mark with both thongs.
When the nut is tight, hop up and down gracefully a couple of times. Make sure the kid's aren't looking in case you lose your stubbies.
Hop down, move the chocks, have a sip of beer, roll the van a couple of feet, then set it up and do it all over again, just to make sure. That will give the missus enough time to grab the camera. [If you win 'Funniest Home Videos' you might be able to afford a mechanic next time].
Check that the split-pin holes are lined up. You can always give it another bounce for luck. Bung in a new split pin, whack on the hub cap and you're ready to go.
I've been doing this for thirty five years and never lost a wheel, but for some reason I've had to move the mark on the pipe a few times.
One of nature's mysteries.
Another job done. Time for a beer.
Cheers, Roger [Beetle].
________________________________
This message is confidential and may contain proprietary or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, any use, interference with, disclosure or copying of the email or any part thereof (including any attachment), is prohibited and you should notify the sender and delete this email immediately. To the fullest extent permitted by law the Gordon accepts no liability for any loss or damage which may result from your receipt of this message or any attachments.