Tacho Change Over

 
sure sounds like WD-40. ( it's the factory dope on CRC 226 , that link above . )
 
why is there 'automatic' criticism or low opinion of WD-40 ?
 
WD-40 has never failed me in any way, ever.
I have never seen a case where applying WD-40 to something didn't help it.
 
Scott
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over

 

Read the label on the can.


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: plander@optusnet.com.au
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 09:59:15 +1100
Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over

 
Advertising never lies.

What would it fix?

> Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Re: "DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING ON IT!"
> ........ except as I said, AFTER close eyeballing the foil for faults,
> CRC226 on the connectors! I did not suggest WD40!
> Those interested, google the specs/uses on CRC226.
> RE: "It may ....."
> Yeah and it may make it work.
> Ken
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: plander@optusnet.com.au
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:32:07 +1100
> Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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>
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> DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING ON IT!
>
>
>
> It may make it impossible to repair.
>
>
>
> Clean anything with a soft cloth and maybe some metho.
>
>
>
> > Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Peter,
>
> > It's always been a risk buying "pre-loved" (ie, near trashed)
> instrument
>
> > clusters sourced from afar in that the attached foil may prove to be
>
> > defective in some way and so may be the cause of a permanent or
>
> > intermittent fault/faults. In my case I feel lucky, I had no issue
> with
>
> > the foil, but a faulty foil is not at all uncommon, in much the same
> way
>
> > as finding broken plastic components of the cluster mounts and
>
> > instrument enclosures are not uncommon.
>
> > So I'd suggest a very close eyeball at the foil for faults, cracks,
>
> > splits and as Phill has said, double check all the connectors of the
>
> > foil to their individual connections. I'd be using CRC226 on these,
> just
>
> > to ensure best and ongoing continuity, especially now as you may be
>
> > having a problem in this area.
>
> > Also double check and CRC226 the main connector plug into the back of
>
> > the cluster, it can at times be problematic re-connecting it properly
> in
>
> > situ.
>
> > Cheers.
>
> > Ken
>
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: peter@coeconsult.com.au
>
> > Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:20:46 +0000
>
> > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Hi all. I have checked through the posts and can't find a match
> to
>
> > this problem. Here we go. Sorry it is a story but the facts are
>
> > important here.
>
> >
>
> > I had a nice tacho in a cluster that I got from the USA and over the
>
> > weekend swapped it over as I did not even have a clock in my cluster.
>
> > Very basic. My Syncro was built in 1988. I also had just got a proper
>
> > speedo with an odometer and 1 100,000 digit.
>
> >
>
> > Install went OK and everything swapped over. Tacho working well and
> new
>
> > speedo OK as well. Two issues, the temp gauge not working and the
>
> > digital clock that initially worked, went blank. Drove to town parked
>
> > for about 2 hours while at dinner, then home. No problems.
>
> >
>
> > This morning, a bit further in town. Parked for 10 minutes then took
>
> > off. 2 minutes later tacho needle drops to zero and engine stops, then
>
>
> > starts, then stops, keeps going then at a busy rounabout car dies.
> Same
>
> > sympton. Tacho needle drops then car stops. Stopped for 45 minutes.
> Car
>
> > starts and I fill up with petrol just in case fuel gauge a problem.
> Car
>
> > starts, off home and after 5 minutes, same problem. Stop start.
> Managed
>
> > to get home. Put Hart's vanagon syndrome connection in. Went round the
>
>
> > block. Same problem.
>
> >
>
> > Put old instrumemnt cluster back in later today and problem went away.
>
> >
>
> > Any thoughts from the wise heads out there. Shame because the new set
> up
>
> > looked really good.
>
> >
>
> > A frustrated Peter from Port
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
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>

I heard somewhere WD40 is nicknamed "mechanic in a can" due to all the things it can do.

Skot

On 1/11/2011 3:17 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

sure sounds like WD-40. ( it's the factory dope on CRC 226 , that link above . )
why is there 'automatic' criticism or low opinion of WD-40 ?
WD-40 has never failed me in any way, ever.
I have never seen a case where applying WD-40 to something didn't help it.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over

Read the label on the can.


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: plander@optusnet.com.au
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 09:59:15 +1100
Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over

Advertising never lies.

What would it fix?

> Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Re: "DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING ON IT!"
> ........ except as I said, AFTER close eyeballing the foil for faults,
> CRC226 on the connectors! I did not suggest WD40!
> Those interested, google the specs/uses on CRC226.
> RE: "It may ....."
> Yeah and it may make it work.
> Ken
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: plander@optusnet.com.au
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:32:07 +1100
> Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING ON IT!
>
>
>
> It may make it impossible to repair.
>
>
>
> Clean anything with a soft cloth and maybe some metho.
>
>
>
> > Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Peter,
>
> > It's always been a risk buying "pre-loved" (ie, near trashed)
> instrument
>
> > clusters sourced from afar in that the attached foil may prove to be
>
> > defective in some way and so may be the cause of a permanent or
>
> > intermittent fault/faults. In my case I feel lucky, I had no issue
> with
>
> > the foil, but a faulty foil is not at all uncommon, in much the same
> way
>
> > as finding broken plastic components of the cluster mounts and
>
> > instrument enclosures are not uncommon.
>
> > So I'd suggest a very close eyeball at the foil for faults, cracks,
>
> > splits and as Phill has said, double check all the connectors of the
>
> > foil to their individual connections. I'd be using CRC226 on these,
> just
>
> > to ensure best and ongoing continuity, especially now as you may be
>
> > having a problem in this area.
>
> > Also double check and CRC226 the main connector plug into the back of
>
> > the cluster, it can at times be problematic re-connecting it properly
> in
>
> > situ.
>
> > Cheers.
>
> > Ken
>
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: peter@coeconsult.com.au
>
> > Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:20:46 +0000
>
> > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
>
> >
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> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Hi all. I have checked through the posts and can't find a match
> to
>
> > this problem. Here we go. Sorry it is a story but the facts are
>
> > important here.
>
> >
>
> > I had a nice tacho in a cluster that I got from the USA and over the
>
> > weekend swapped it over as I did not even have a clock in my cluster.
>
> > Very basic. My Syncro was built in 1988. I also had just got a proper
>
> > speedo with an odometer and 1 100,000 digit.
>
> >
>
> > Install went OK and everything swapped over. Tacho working well and
> new
>
> > speedo OK as well. Two issues, the temp gauge not working and the
>
> > digital clock that initially worked, went blank. Drove to town parked
>
> > for about 2 hours while at dinner, then home. No problems.
>
> >
>
> > This morning, a bit further in town. Parked for 10 minutes then took
>
> > off. 2 minutes later tacho needle drops to zero and engine stops, then
>
>
> > starts, then stops, keeps going then at a busy rounabout car dies.
> Same
>
> > sympton. Tacho needle drops then car stops. Stopped for 45 minutes.
> Car
>
> > starts and I fill up with petrol just in case fuel gauge a problem.
> Car
>
> > starts, off home and after 5 minutes, same problem. Stop start.
> Managed
>
> > to get home. Put Hart's vanagon syndrome connection in. Went round the
>
>
> > block. Same problem.
>
> >
>
> > Put old instrumemnt cluster back in later today and problem went away.
>
> >
>
> > Any thoughts from the wise heads out there. Shame because the new set
> up
>
> > looked really good.
>
> >
>
> > A frustrated Peter from Port
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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>
>


Fantastic. Many thanks Hans. This will be most valuable to check. It seems odd that my temp gauge works with the old cluster and not with the new one.

I put the old one back and have been driving around this morning with no hassles.

I also found that a new wire has been put in for the temp sender. Traced it back through the car. Then in an adjacent spot there is a wire that has been cut off and a masking tape note that says “temp sender faulty”. Curious. Will take it to bits again and check the locations and colours as per your chart.

Cheers, Peter

More like meathead in a can.

You spray it on a printed circuit and then have a bugger of a time soldering it. Also good for washing off lubricants and causing wear.



> Scott Pitcher <spbconsulting@bigpond.com> wrote:
>
> I heard somewhere WD40 is nicknamed "mechanic in a can" due to all the
> things it can do.
>
> Skot
>
> On 1/11/2011 3:17 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
> >
> >
> > http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/tchdta/101.pdf
> >
> > sure sounds like WD-40. ( it's the factory dope on CRC 226 , that link
> > above . )
> >
> > why is there 'automatic' criticism or low opinion of WD-40 ?
> >
> > WD-40 has never failed me in any way, ever.
> > I have never seen a case where applying WD-40 to something didn't help
> > it.
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > *From:* Ken Garratt <mailto:unclekenz@hotmail.com>
> > *To:* _T3_Australia forum Syncro
> > <mailto:syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
> > *Sent:* Monday, October 31, 2011 9:08 PM
> > *Subject:* RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over
> >
> >
> >
> > Read the label on the can.
> >
> >
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
> > From: plander@optusnet.com.au <mailto:plander@optusnet.com.au>
> > Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 09:59:15 +1100
> > Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over
> >
> >
> > Advertising never lies.
> >
> > What would it fix?
> >
> > > Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com
> > <mailto:unclekenz@hotmail.com>> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Re: "DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING ON IT!"
> > > ........ except as I said, AFTER close eyeballing the foil for
> > faults,
> > > CRC226 on the connectors! I did not suggest WD40!
> > > Those interested, google the specs/uses on CRC226.
> > > RE: "It may ....."
> > > Yeah and it may make it work.
> > > Ken
> > >
> > > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > From: plander@optusnet.com.au <mailto:plander%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:32:07 +1100
> > > Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING ON IT!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > It may make it impossible to repair.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Clean anything with a soft cloth and maybe some metho.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com
> > <mailto:unclekenz%40hotmail.com>> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > > Peter,
> > >
> > > > It's always been a risk buying "pre-loved" (ie, near trashed)
> > > instrument
> > >
> > > > clusters sourced from afar in that the attached foil may prove
> > to be
> > >
> > > > defective in some way and so may be the cause of a permanent
> or
> > >
> > > > intermittent fault/faults. In my case I feel lucky, I had no
> > issue
> > > with
> > >
> > > > the foil, but a faulty foil is not at all uncommon, in much
> > the same
> > > way
> > >
> > > > as finding broken plastic components of the cluster mounts and
> > >
> > > > instrument enclosures are not uncommon.
> > >
> > > > So I'd suggest a very close eyeball at the foil for faults,
> > cracks,
> > >
> > > > splits and as Phill has said, double check all the connectors
> > of the
> > >
> > > > foil to their individual connections. I'd be using CRC226 on
> > these,
> > > just
> > >
> > > > to ensure best and ongoing continuity, especially now as you
> > may be
> > >
> > > > having a problem in this area.
> > >
> > > > Also double check and CRC226 the main connector plug into the
> > back of
> > >
> > > > the cluster, it can at times be problematic re-connecting it
> > properly
> > > in
> > >
> > > > situ.
> > >
> > > > Cheers.
> > >
> > > > Ken
> > >
> > > > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
> > > > From: peter@coeconsult.com.au
> <mailto:peter%40coeconsult.com.au>
> > >
> > > > Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:20:46 +0000
> > >
> > > > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > > Hi all. I have checked through the posts and can't find a
> match
> > > to
> > >
> > > > this problem. Here we go. Sorry it is a story but the facts
> are
> > >
> > > > important here.
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > > I had a nice tacho in a cluster that I got from the USA and
> > over the
> > >
> > > > weekend swapped it over as I did not even have a clock in my
> > cluster.
> > >
> > > > Very basic. My Syncro was built in 1988. I also had just got a
> > proper
> > >
> > > > speedo with an odometer and 1 100,000 digit.
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > > Install went OK and everything swapped over. Tacho working
> > well and
> > > new
> > >
> > > > speedo OK as well. Two issues, the temp gauge not working and
> the
> > >
> > > > digital clock that initially worked, went blank. Drove to town
> > parked
> > >
> > > > for about 2 hours while at dinner, then home. No problems.
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > > This morning, a bit further in town. Parked for 10 minutes
> > then took
> > >
> > > > off. 2 minutes later tacho needle drops to zero and engine
> > stops, then
> > >
> > >
> > > > starts, then stops, keeps going then at a busy rounabout car
> > dies.
> > > Same
> > >
> > > > sympton. Tacho needle drops then car stops. Stopped for 45
> > minutes.
> > > Car
> > >
> > > > starts and I fill up with petrol just in case fuel gauge a
> > problem.
> > > Car
> > >
> > > > starts, off home and after 5 minutes, same problem. Stop
> start.
> > > Managed
> > >
> > > > to get home. Put Hart's vanagon syndrome connection in. Went
> > round the
> > >
> > >
> > > > block. Same problem.
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > > Put old instrumemnt cluster back in later today and problem
> > went away.
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > > Any thoughts from the wise heads out there. Shame because the
> > new set
> > > up
> > >
> > > > looked really good.
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > > A frustrated Peter from Port
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >

WD40 is no different to many other aids in that knowing its limitations is as important as knowing its uses.  

Any electronics shop keeps products designed to clean printed circuits which work very well on printed circuit boards but, surprise surprise, aren’t much chop when it comes to getting exhaust nuts off.

Les


From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of plander@optusnet.com.au
Sent: 01 November 2011 16:22
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tacho Change Over

 

More like meathead in a can.
You spray it on a printed circuit and then have a bugger of a time soldering it. Also good for washing off lubricants and causing wear.

Ken,

 

Have used Q Bond and wish  I  hadn’t.

Not impressed with the stuff.

 

Hartmut

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Tuesday, 1 November 2011 3:07 PM
To: _T3_Australia forum Syncro
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] FIX

 

 

Bruce,

 

Much the same as QBond ...

 

Horses for courses. Depends what you're repairing and JB Weld may be a better alternative at times.

 

Happy fixing!

 

Ken

 

 


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: royalb@aapt.net.au
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 10:04:08 +1000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] FIX

 

I was in BCF the other day and they were playing this video.    http://www.rapid-fix.com/Rapid-Fix.com/HOME.html

 

It may be one to add too the emergency tool kit IF it actually works.

 

Bruce

CQ