That time in every Syncro's life

1
HI, 
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on. 

We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)

many thanks
Nick
2
Interesting. I had the same problem. I'm seriously thinking about converting mine over to a Volvo B23 engine. Same power and bullet proof. 
Will keep you all in the loop on what I do. :)

On Friday, April 4, 2014, Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

HI, 
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on. 

We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)

many thanks
Nick

3

Nick,

You are a long way from anywhere so you might as well go to the best workshop – Volkwerke at Greensborough.  They are long established, much respected and very reliable.  Speak to Lloyd Davies (owner) and tell him that you are a member of Syncro_T3_Australia.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Nicholas Fletcher
Sent: 04 April 2014 08:34
To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life 

HI, 

Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on. 

We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)

many thanks

Nick

4

Nick;

When you are getting prices ask how much it will cost to have s/steel head studs fitted over normal units this should stop the corrosion problems that can cause the head to leak.

Bob

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Clarke
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:54 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 

 

Interesting. I had the same problem. I'm seriously thinking about converting mine over to a Volvo B23 engine. Same power and bullet proof. 

Will keep you all in the loop on what I do. :)

On Friday, April 4, 2014, Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com> wrote:

 

HI, 

Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on. 

 

We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)

 

many thanks

Nick

5

Bob,

The studs do not corrode so long as the correct coolant is used.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robert Dale
Sent: 04 April 2014 09:23
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life 

Nick;

When you are getting prices ask how much it will cost to have s/steel head studs fitted over normal units this should stop the corrosion problems that can cause the head to leak.

Bob

6
Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?
From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
HI, 
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on. 

We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)

many thanks
Nick


7

true

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les Harris
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 9:30 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 

 

Bob,

The studs do not corrode so long as the correct coolant is used.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robert Dale
Sent: 04 April 2014 09:23
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life 

Nick;

When you are getting prices ask how much it will cost to have s/steel head studs fitted over normal units this should stop the corrosion problems that can cause the head to leak.

Bob

8
Nick

Had mind done a few years back at Volkwerke in Greensborough Melb.. It cost me around $1600 from memory. Had new lifters installed at the same time. I was lucky enough to have the complete job done in a day. Lloyd is the man.

Good luck

Tony (Ballarat)

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

From: Robert Dale <rcdale@bigpond.com>;
To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Thu, Apr 3, 2014 11:02:50 PM

true

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les Harris
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 9:30 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

Bob,

The studs do not corrode so long as the correct coolant is used.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robert Dale
Sent: 04 April 2014 09:23
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

Nick;

When you are getting prices ask how much it will cost to have s/steel head studs fitted over normal units this should stop the corrosion problems that can cause the head to leak.

Bob

9

A bit of further information about Volkwerke – Lloyd Davies is a lifelong total VW person with exceptional experience.  He is also president of the VW Club of Victoria , which is the world’s oldest VW club.  In conjunction with John Goodison (Volks Home), he is about the best source of genuine VAG parts.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tony Marshall
Sent: 04 April 2014 12:27
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

Nick
Had mind done a few years back at Volkwerke in Greensborough Melb.. It cost me around $1600 from memory. Had new lifters installed at the same time. I was lucky enough to have the complete job done in a day. Lloyd is the man.
Good luck
Tony (Ballarat)

 

10
Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

 

Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?
From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
HI, 
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on. 

We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)

many thanks
Nick


11
At 165k you could just go a reseal. You may find some bad corrosion on the head surfaces and need to replace the heads. You might also think about replacing things like conrods and rings whilst you are this far into the engine. Lloyd is the man BTW.
From: Nick Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

 
Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?
From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
HI, 
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on. 

We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)

many thanks
Nick




12

Greg, are confide an issue? I have never had any problems with any of mine and have done over 600 K in my 2wd.

Cheers,
Michael Roberts

Sent from Yahoo!7 Mail on Android


From: Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com>;
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 11:07:36 AM

At 165k you could just go a reseal. You may find some bad corrosion on the head surfaces and need to replace the heads. You might also think about replacing things like conrods and rings whilst you are this far into the engine. Lloyd is the man BTW.
From: Nick Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?
From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

HI,
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on.

We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)

many thanks
Nick
13
Michael, technically the con rods are not the issue, it is the big end bolts. They stretch and break. You must have the rods rebuilt if you are going to reuse them. The two most common bolts used to replace them are 1.9l bolts or ARP bolts. The rebuild process involves more than just replacing the bolts as the big end usually ends up oval. The genuine rods are strong but heavy. In my opinion it seams like throwing good money after bad as you will need to get rebuilt rods from the US and send your cores back and at the end of all that expense you still have a heavy rod. Remember any weight loss on reciprocating parts equals power. What I do is get performance I beam rods from Scat in the US. These rods are for type one engines so the only difference is that the small end is 22mm and not the 24mm that wbx uses. I use Scat because they are willing to resize the bush to 24mm before shipping. They are a really nice rod for the money and have ARP bolts as standard. These rods with cb performance clevite bearings are what I use to match the already stout mains on our much loved waterboxers.
From: "type500@yahoo.com" <type500@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
Greg, are confide an issue? I have never had any problems with any of mine and have done over 600 K in my 2wd.
Cheers,
Michael Roberts

From: Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com>;
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 11:07:36 AM

 
At 165k you could just go a reseal. You may find some bad corrosion on the head surfaces and need to replace the heads. You might also think about replacing things like conrods and rings whilst you are this far into the engine. Lloyd is the man BTW.
From: Nick Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

 
Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?
From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
HI, 
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on. 

We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)

many thanks
Nick






14

Greg,

I have never had to rebuild an MV engine so this is new and useful information to me.  I am tickled pink that SCAT is still blasting along at full bore after 50+ years!!

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Greg Esposito
Sent: 05 April 2014 09:56
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 

Michael, technically the con rods are not the issue, it is the big end bolts. They stretch and break. You must have the rods rebuilt if you are going to reuse them. 

15
I agree with Greg.
If you are doing a job on the bottom end, replace the bolts with the best you can buy.

I had a T3 2WD engine rebuilt a few years ago and within a few thousand Ks threw a big end through the crank case.
Exit one engine, and start again. One for the price of two, the bolts had been recycled.

Also on the subject of VW rods.
A friend of mine was an amateur racing engine builder.
Years ago one of his friends asked him to help him build a formula V engine.
The object, a blue printed engine.
They got permission to go into the VWA warehouse and try to find a matched set of engine parts measuring close to design.
They couldn't.
The conrods were out of square between the big ends and the gudgeons.
I believe they should be parallel.
Pistons of a variety of weights and sizes, etc., etc..

Speaks volumes.

Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Greg Esposito
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 15:56:03 -0700 (PDT)




Michael, technically the con rods are not the issue, it is the big end bolts. They stretch and break. You must have the rods rebuilt if you are going to reuse them. The two most common bolts used to replace them are 1.9l bolts or ARP bolts. The rebuild process involves more than just replacing the bolts as the big end usually ends up oval. The genuine rods are strong but heavy. In my opinion it seams like throwing good money after bad as you will need to get rebuilt rods from the US and send your cores back and at the end of all that expense you still have a heavy rod. Remember any weight loss on reciprocating parts equals power. What I do is get performance I beam rods from Scat in the US. These rods are for type one engines so the only difference is that the small end is 22mm and not the 24mm that wbx uses. I use Scat because they are willing to resize the bush to 24mm before shipping. They are a really nice rod for the money and have ARP bolts as standard. These rods with cb performance clevite bearings are what I use to match the already stout mains on our much loved waterboxers.


From: "type500@yahoo.com" <type500@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Greg, are confide an issue? I have never had any problems with any of mine and have done over 600 K in my 2wd.
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
Sent from Yahoo!7 Mail on Android


From: Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com>;
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 11:07:36 AM



At 165k you could just go a reseal. You may find some bad corrosion on the head surfaces and need to replace the heads. You might also think about replacing things like conrods and rings whilst you are this far into the engine. Lloyd is the man BTW.


From: Nick Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:



Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?


From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


HI,
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on.


We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)


many thanks
Nick













































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16
That is a very common story Peter. The stress of retensioning already hammered bolts causes failure soon after rebuild. If your lucky you will salvage the heads and the rest goes to the scrappy. You can usually guess something is amiss by the state of the big end bearings on tear down.
Re blue printing an engine, there is only one way to do it - match the parts yourself - a good set of scales, a scrape here, a grind there.
From: Peter Schweinsberg <peter@peterandval.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
I agree with Greg.
If you are doing a job on the bottom end, replace the bolts with the best you can buy.

I had a T3 2WD engine rebuilt a few years ago and within a few thousand Ks threw a big end through the crank case.
Exit one engine, and start again. One for the price of two, the bolts had been recycled.

Also on the subject of VW rods.
A friend of mine was an amateur racing engine builder.
Years ago one of his friends asked him to help him build a formula V engine.
The object, a blue printed engine.
They got permission to go into the VWA warehouse and try to find a matched set of engine parts measuring close to design.
They couldn't.
The conrods were out of square between the big ends and the gudgeons.
I believe they should be parallel.
Pistons of a variety of weights and sizes, etc., etc..

Speaks volumes.

Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Greg Esposito
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 15:56:03 -0700 (PDT)




Michael, technically the con rods are not the issue, it is the big end bolts. They stretch and break. You must have the rods rebuilt if you are going to reuse them. The two most common bolts used to replace them are 1.9l bolts or ARP bolts. The rebuild process involves more than just replacing the bolts as the big end usually ends up oval. The genuine rods are strong but heavy. In my opinion it seams like throwing good money after bad as you will need to get rebuilt rods from the US and send your cores back and at the end of all that expense you still have a heavy rod. Remember any weight loss on reciprocating parts equals power. What I do is get performance I beam rods from Scat in the US. These rods are for type one engines so the only difference is that the small end is 22mm and not the 24mm that wbx uses. I use Scat because they are willing to resize the bush to 24mm before shipping. They are a really nice rod for the money and have ARP bolts as standard. These rods with cb performance clevite bearings are what I use to match the already stout mains on our much loved waterboxers.


From: "type500@yahoo.com" <type500@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Greg, are confide an issue? I have never had any problems with any of mine and have done over 600 K in my 2wd.
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
Sent from Yahoo!7 Mail on Android


From: Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com>;
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 11:07:36 AM



At 165k you could just go a reseal. You may find some bad corrosion on the head surfaces and need to replace the heads. You might also think about replacing things like conrods and rings whilst you are this far into the engine. Lloyd is the man BTW.


From: Nick Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:



Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?


From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


HI,
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on.


We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)


many thanks
Nick













































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17
Hey Guys, Just thought I would add that I use demineralised water when I top up system or change coolant. ..........Pete


On Sat, Apr 5, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

That is a very common story Peter. The stress of retensioning already hammered bolts causes failure soon after rebuild. If your lucky you will salvage the heads and the rest goes to the scrappy. You can usually guess something is amiss by the state of the big end bearings on tear down.
Re blue printing an engine, there is only one way to do it - match the parts yourself - a good set of scales, a scrape here, a grind there.
From: Peter Schweinsberg <peter@peterandval.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 12:02 PM

Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
I agree with Greg.
If you are doing a job on the bottom end, replace the bolts with the best you can buy.

I had a T3 2WD engine rebuilt a few years ago and within a few thousand Ks threw a big end through the crank case.
Exit one engine, and start again. One for the price of two, the bolts had been recycled.

Also on the subject of VW rods.
A friend of mine was an amateur racing engine builder.
Years ago one of his friends asked him to help him build a formula V engine.
The object, a blue printed engine.
They got permission to go into the VWA warehouse and try to find a matched set of engine parts measuring close to design.
They couldn't.
The conrods were out of square between the big ends and the gudgeons.
I believe they should be parallel.
Pistons of a variety of weights and sizes, etc., etc..

Speaks volumes.

Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Greg Esposito
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 15:56:03 -0700 (PDT)




Michael, technically the con rods are not the issue, it is the big end bolts. They stretch and break. You must have the rods rebuilt if you are going to reuse them. The two most common bolts used to replace them are 1.9l bolts or ARP bolts. The rebuild process involves more than just replacing the bolts as the big end usually ends up oval. The genuine rods are strong but heavy. In my opinion it seams like throwing good money after bad as you will need to get rebuilt rods from the US and send your cores back and at the end of all that expense you still have a heavy rod. Remember any weight loss on reciprocating parts equals power. What I do is get performance I beam rods from Scat in the US. These rods are for type one engines so the only difference is that the small end is 22mm and not the 24mm that wbx uses. I use Scat because they are willing to resize the bush to 24mm before shipping. They are a really nice rod for the money and have ARP bolts as standard. These rods with cb performance clevite bearings are what I use to match the already stout mains on our much loved waterboxers.


From: "type500@yahoo.com" <type500@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Greg, are confide an issue? I have never had any problems with any of mine and have done over 600 K in my 2wd.
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
Sent from Yahoo!7 Mail on Android


From: Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com>;
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 11:07:36 AM



At 165k you could just go a reseal. You may find some bad corrosion on the head surfaces and need to replace the heads. You might also think about replacing things like conrods and rings whilst you are this far into the engine. Lloyd is the man BTW.


From: Nick Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:



Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?


From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


HI,
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on.


We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)


many thanks
Nick













































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18
Hello Greg,
Do you have any more info on the rods you have used?  Or do you have a contact at Scat that I can talk to, email etc.  I have here that people were using the Scat rods, but did not know they would size the gudgeon pin end to 24 mm.  This is very interesting as I planned to go down this path but machine out the bearing myself.  If they are willing to do the machining it would save some effort.
 
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
On Sunday, April 6, 2014 3:30:47 PM, Peter Wilson <peterw1000@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Hey Guys, Just thought I would add that I use demineralised water when I top up system or change coolant. ..........Pete


On Sat, Apr 5, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
That is a very common story Peter. The stress of retensioning already hammered bolts causes failure soon after rebuild. If your lucky you will salvage the heads and the rest goes to the scrappy. You can usually guess something is amiss by the state of the big end bearings on tear down.
Re blue printing an engine, there is only one way to do it - match the parts yourself - a good set of scales, a scrape here, a grind there.
From: Peter Schweinsberg <peter@peterandval.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 12:02 PM

Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
I agree with Greg.
If you are doing a job on the bottom end, replace the bolts with the best you can buy.

I had a T3 2WD engine rebuilt a few years ago and within a few thousand Ks threw a big end through the crank case.
Exit one engine, and start again. One for the price of two, the bolts had been recycled.

Also on the subject of VW rods.
A friend of mine was an amateur racing engine builder.
Years ago one of his friends asked him to help him build a formula V engine.
The object, a blue printed engine.
They got permission to go into the VWA warehouse and try to find a matched set of engine parts measuring close to design.
They couldn't.
The conrods were out of square between the big ends and the gudgeons.
I believe they should be parallel.
Pistons of a variety of weights and sizes, etc., etc..

Speaks volumes.

Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Greg Esposito
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 15:56:03 -0700 (PDT)




Michael, technically the con rods are not the issue, it is the big end bolts. They stretch and break. You must have the rods rebuilt if you are going to reuse them. The two most common bolts used to replace them are 1.9l bolts or ARP bolts. The rebuild process involves more than just replacing the bolts as the big end usually ends up oval. The genuine rods are strong but heavy. In my opinion it seams like throwing good money after bad as you will need to get rebuilt rods from the US and send your cores back and at the end of all that expense you still have a heavy rod. Remember any weight loss on reciprocating parts equals power. What I do is get performance I beam rods from Scat in the US. These rods are for type one engines so the only difference is that the small end is 22mm and not the 24mm that wbx uses. I use Scat because they are willing to resize the bush to 24mm before shipping. They are a really nice rod for the money and have ARP bolts as standard. These rods with cb performance clevite bearings are what I use to match the already stout mains on our much loved waterboxers.


From: "type500@yahoo.com" <type500@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Greg, are confide an issue? I have never had any problems with any of mine and have done over 600 K in my 2wd.
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
Sent from Yahoo!7 Mail on Android


From: Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com>;
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 11:07:36 AM



At 165k you could just go a reseal. You may find some bad corrosion on the head surfaces and need to replace the heads. You might also think about replacing things like conrods and rings whilst you are this far into the engine. Lloyd is the man BTW.


From: Nick Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:



Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?


From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


HI,
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on.


We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)


many thanks
Nick













































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19
Hi Micheal, The part number of the rod set I use is ICR5394-3. You can get the cheaper ICR5394-8740, but for $20 I like the ARP bolts.
Just email them VWtech@ScatEnterprises.com  with your request to resize to 24mm.
From: Michael Roberts <type500@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, 7 April 2014 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
Hello Greg,
Do you have any more info on the rods you have used?  Or do you have a contact at Scat that I can talk to, email etc.  I have here that people were using the Scat rods, but did not know they would size the gudgeon pin end to 24 mm.  This is very interesting as I planned to go down this path but machine out the bearing myself.  If they are willing to do the machining it would save some effort.
 
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
On Sunday, April 6, 2014 3:30:47 PM, Peter Wilson <peterw1000@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Hey Guys, Just thought I would add that I use demineralised water when I top up system or change coolant. ..........Pete


On Sat, Apr 5, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
That is a very common story Peter. The stress of retensioning already hammered bolts causes failure soon after rebuild. If your lucky you will salvage the heads and the rest goes to the scrappy. You can usually guess something is amiss by the state of the big end bearings on tear down.
Re blue printing an engine, there is only one way to do it - match the parts yourself - a good set of scales, a scrape here, a grind there.
From: Peter Schweinsberg <peter@peterandval.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 12:02 PM

Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
I agree with Greg.
If you are doing a job on the bottom end, replace the bolts with the best you can buy.

I had a T3 2WD engine rebuilt a few years ago and within a few thousand Ks threw a big end through the crank case.
Exit one engine, and start again. One for the price of two, the bolts had been recycled.

Also on the subject of VW rods.
A friend of mine was an amateur racing engine builder.
Years ago one of his friends asked him to help him build a formula V engine.
The object, a blue printed engine.
They got permission to go into the VWA warehouse and try to find a matched set of engine parts measuring close to design.
They couldn't.
The conrods were out of square between the big ends and the gudgeons.
I believe they should be parallel.
Pistons of a variety of weights and sizes, etc., etc..

Speaks volumes.

Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Greg Esposito
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 15:56:03 -0700 (PDT)




Michael, technically the con rods are not the issue, it is the big end bolts. They stretch and break. You must have the rods rebuilt if you are going to reuse them. The two most common bolts used to replace them are 1.9l bolts or ARP bolts. The rebuild process involves more than just replacing the bolts as the big end usually ends up oval. The genuine rods are strong but heavy. In my opinion it seams like throwing good money after bad as you will need to get rebuilt rods from the US and send your cores back and at the end of all that expense you still have a heavy rod. Remember any weight loss on reciprocating parts equals power. What I do is get performance I beam rods from Scat in the US. These rods are for type one engines so the only difference is that the small end is 22mm and not the 24mm that wbx uses. I use Scat because they are willing to resize the bush to 24mm before shipping. They are a really nice rod for the money and have ARP bolts as standard. These rods with cb performance clevite bearings are what I use to match the already stout mains on our much loved waterboxers.


From: "type500@yahoo.com" <type500@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Greg, are confide an issue? I have never had any problems with any of mine and have done over 600 K in my 2wd.
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
Sent from Yahoo!7 Mail on Android


From: Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com>;
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 11:07:36 AM



At 165k you could just go a reseal. You may find some bad corrosion on the head surfaces and need to replace the heads. You might also think about replacing things like conrods and rings whilst you are this far into the engine. Lloyd is the man BTW.


From: Nick Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:



Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?


From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


HI,
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on.


We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)


many thanks
Nick













































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20
Cheers Greg,
That should help me with my new rebuild.  Will give them a call.
 
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
 

From: Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com>;
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Mon, Apr 7, 2014 10:50:58 PM

 
Hi Micheal, The part number of the rod set I use is ICR5394-3. You can get the cheaper ICR5394-8740, but for $20 I like the ARP bolts.
Just email them VWtech@ScatEnterprises.com  with your request to resize to 24mm.
From: Michael Roberts <type500@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, 7 April 2014 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
Hello Greg,
Do you have any more info on the rods you have used?  Or do you have a contact at Scat that I can talk to, email etc.  I have here that people were using the Scat rods, but did not know they would size the gudgeon pin end to 24 mm.  This is very interesting as I planned to go down this path but machine out the bearing myself.  If they are willing to do the machining it would save some effort.
 
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
On Sunday, April 6, 2014 3:30:47 PM, Peter Wilson <peterw1000@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Hey Guys, Just thought I would add that I use demineralised water when I top up system or change coolant. ..........Pete


On Sat, Apr 5, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
That is a very common story Peter. The stress of retensioning already hammered bolts causes failure soon after rebuild. If your lucky you will salvage the heads and the rest goes to the scrappy. You can usually guess something is amiss by the state of the big end bearings on tear down.
Re blue printing an engine, there is only one way to do it - match the parts yourself - a good set of scales, a scrape here, a grind there.
From: Peter Schweinsberg <peter@peterandval.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 12:02 PM

Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life

 
I agree with Greg.
If you are doing a job on the bottom end, replace the bolts with the best you can buy.

I had a T3 2WD engine rebuilt a few years ago and within a few thousand Ks threw a big end through the crank case.
Exit one engine, and start again. One for the price of two, the bolts had been recycled.

Also on the subject of VW rods.
A friend of mine was an amateur racing engine builder.
Years ago one of his friends asked him to help him build a formula V engine.
The object, a blue printed engine.
They got permission to go into the VWA warehouse and try to find a matched set of engine parts measuring close to design.
They couldn't.
The conrods were out of square between the big ends and the gudgeons.
I believe they should be parallel.
Pistons of a variety of weights and sizes, etc., etc..

Speaks volumes.

Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Greg Esposito
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 15:56:03 -0700 (PDT)




Michael, technically the con rods are not the issue, it is the big end bolts. They stretch and break. You must have the rods rebuilt if you are going to reuse them. The two most common bolts used to replace them are 1.9l bolts or ARP bolts. The rebuild process involves more than just replacing the bolts as the big end usually ends up oval. The genuine rods are strong but heavy. In my opinion it seams like throwing good money after bad as you will need to get rebuilt rods from the US and send your cores back and at the end of all that expense you still have a heavy rod. Remember any weight loss on reciprocating parts equals power. What I do is get performance I beam rods from Scat in the US. These rods are for type one engines so the only difference is that the small end is 22mm and not the 24mm that wbx uses. I use Scat because they are willing to resize the bush to 24mm before shipping. They are a really nice rod for the money and have ARP bolts as standard. These rods with cb performance clevite bearings are what I use to match the already stout mains on our much loved waterboxers.


From: "type500@yahoo.com" <type500@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2014 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Greg, are confide an issue? I have never had any problems with any of mine and have done over 600 K in my 2wd.
Cheers,
Michael Roberts
Sent from Yahoo!7 Mail on Android


From: Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com>;
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life
Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 11:07:36 AM



At 165k you could just go a reseal. You may find some bad corrosion on the head surfaces and need to replace the heads. You might also think about replacing things like conrods and rings whilst you are this far into the engine. Lloyd is the man BTW.


From: Nick Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


Hi, we are in Anglesea (nor Geelong) and engine has about 165k on it. Regards. Nick

On 4 Apr 2014, at 9:58 am, Greg Esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:



Nick, Where in Victoria are you? How many kms on the engine?


From: Nicholas Fletcher <nwjfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: "syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2014 8:34 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] That time in every Syncro's life


HI,
Our beloved Syncro has the dreaded head gasket leak so needs the job doing, plus a bit of a tune up and so on.


We are in Victoria but I am happy to drive quite a long way for the best mechanic for the job. Does anyone have a recommended mechanic that would also provide some kind of warranty for the work? And how much should it cost? ( I think it should be a couple of thousand)


many thanks
Nick













































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