Van Cut Out

21
All,
Just found my better record of Scott and Grahams purchase of BEHR replacement radiators from Wyong, including pics.
Please see the attached PDF file.
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 27 Nov 2015 22:44:33 +1100
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator replacement

 

Thanks all for the information. Will let you know how I get on finding a replacement.

On 25 Nov 2015 9:44 pm, "Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi Scott, Jon and all,
From notes I made at the time way back then, both you and Graham Adams sourced the Behr 068.121.253.E radiator from:
Wyong Radiator Repairs
Bay 1/6 Ace Crescent Tuggerah

I believe WRR sourced from a supplier in Newcastle.
I also have some other associated part codes for Grahams purchase, how exactly they relate I've forgotten, someone would have to ask Graham but my notes glean the following extra info from his purchase: VW 2109162 and/or 8MK 376 713-631.

I know in the past some members have discovered after purchase that the radiator sourced from Tooley Imports and/or just Kampers are lower capacity radiators i.e., the core width is too narrow. For example JK's is stated as only 30mm:
Maybe it's a typo error, 30mm seems terribly thin. It's also the wrong part number for a syncro.

I have to say I'm confused about what passes today as an 068.121.253.E radiator compared with the original 25 years ago.
For example it's been more recently stated that the dimensions of the syncro radiator are 570W x 440H x 45D.
A while back I attempted to measure the dimensions of my radiator in situ, not easy to do but I came up with the following because I wanted some benchmark to then be able compare dimensions as stated by others or suppliers:
My radiator measured overall 648W x 455H x 50D.
Take off the two x 30mm end tanks leaves a core size of 588W x 455H x 50D. The 50D would have been the overall depth measurement of the core fins, can't remember if the core was less than the fin depth to bring it back to 45D.
The bottom support/locating lugs are 642mm centre to centre, this would be an important measurement for correct fit.

So I'd suggest proceeding cautiously with any radiator purchase and confirm measurements first before committing.
Cheers.
Ken






To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 13:42:40 +1100
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Van Cut Out

 
Hi Jon,

I got mine from Wyong radiators about 4 years ago for about $400.00.

It was the correct 45mm thick Behr radiator.

Not sure of the cost and availability now but at least they had access to the correct radiator back then - I cant see why that would have changed.

I also got a set of stainless steel radiator pipes which will release heat much better.

Between the two my syncro runs much cooler...

Cheers,

Skot


On 24/11/2015 10:27 PM, Jon Bartlett mail@jaybe.net [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Hi Scott,

Reading some stuff online points to issues with running the high speed fan for prolonged periods. Seems like the wiring isn't up to the job in the long term.

So ultimate fix is probably to stop the fast fan meaning more efficient cooling.

The rad is probably original. Where to get a new one? Syncro specific I seem to remember and was there an Australian version (thicker)?

Thanks.

Jon

On 24 Nov 2015 9:56 pm, "Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Hi Jon,

How long since you had a new radiator?

Also that fan switch is on the radiator and maybe it is in need of replacement.

Cheers,

Skot



On 24/11/2015 3:46 PM, Jon Bartlett mail@jaybe.net [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 
Strange behaviour from the van this afternoon. Waiting at the lights in traffic in Brighton-Le-Sands and the van just cut out. The second stage fan had just cut in then nothing. No electrics, nothing. Had to get pushed out of the road to the dismay of impatient Sydney drivers.

Thought it might have been the ignition switch so set about installing the spare then tried the ignition again. The van had cooled down and now lights on the dash but would not turnover. A friendly T3 enthusiast helped push start the van successfully (and make me an offer for the van). 

Set off home with the heater on full trying not to set off the second stage fan again. Strangeness continued on the way home when the heater fan cut out and now will not work. Got back home but left the van running for a while and the second stage cooling fan kicks in ok. The van will not start again now though but lights on the dash ok.

The second stage fan has been acting a bit strange recently in that it would cycle on/off fast around the time when it kicked in. Not all the time but just something I noticed.

Thoughts? 

I will probably change the ignition switch for good measure anyway.

Thanks.

Jon.





22

I went through this at the beginning of the year, and now have 3 radiators, original, Thermex (made in Denmark) and Behr (made in south Africa)

It's easy to pick the difference, when looking at the radiator the coolant tubes left to right on the correct radiator for "tropical conditions" are quite thin (~4-5mm vertically), and the full width (45-50mm) front to back. Radiators for cooler climates are round (~30mm dia), so look very different.

Richard

23

A tip I got from a friend (though I have not tried it) is to have a hose connected to a modified bleed screw to fit in the radiator, long enough to reach the pressurized bottle in the engine bay, run motor per factory bleeding specs (heater on, ~2000rpm, nose of bus lifted) with the hose drining into the bottle, and top up as required.


This just lets the coolant pushed out the bleed screw to run directly back into the system. When the coolant through the new hose is solid and not bubbles the system is bleed.

He ran the hose under the bus and left it there permanently so it was always ready to use.


Even though I haven't tried it, seems ot make sense.

Richard


24
All,

Got the van going again. The battery was kaput. When the second 450w fan kicked in the engine was at idle. My assumption is that the alternator output plus battery could not keep up with the requirements of the fan, hence everything died. Does that make sense?

Still got the cooling issue but hoping a new rad will fix that. 

Thanks for all the replies.


-- 
Jon Bartlett
Sent with Airmail

On 24 November 2015 at 9:01:36 pm, 'Peter Coe' peter@coeconsult.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] (syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com) wrote:

 

That’s interesting Jon. I sometimes have the first stage kick in but it’s very rare that it then goes to the second. Even when idling in the driveway to get the engine up to operating temp for work mine only ever cycles to the first stage and off again. Could more cooling issues there for you I think.

Yes, I put in better bulbs as well and am much happier at night now. Peter