I have recently acquired a 1990 Syncro.
It apears the previous owner removed the front diff, axles and prop shaft for unknown reasons.
Leaving the outside of the CV’s as front axles.
The rear transaxle code is 6P.
My research indicates 5.43 diff.
I need the complete front diff and prop shaft.
CV’s, mounting rubbers and hardware and speedo cable I’ll souce new.
I’m located in Lara, near Geelong (I will travel in VIC to collect)
Thanks
Leon
George up in Melbourne wrecked a Syncro not too long ago. I just had him on the phone and he probably has got all the parts you need.
He is currently interstate and he is also not on the forum here, but will make contact between you both when he is back in town.
Good news, I was able to track down the original front diff, propshaft and mounting cradles.
I’ll order some new CV axles and bolt it all up with an oil change and test it’s function.
But I have a feeling the VC might be the reason it was pulled in the first place.
Hope it all works well. Check the prop shaft for play also, if the universal or the bush (behind the rubber buffer) have worn it will cause vibration in the drive line.
There was a company in Austria rebuilding VC’s, and if you fit a decoupler, you can also get a solid shaft.
Viscowerkstatt Kern (vw-kern.at)
They were not taking orders outside of Europe, so you might need to send it through some one in Europe.
Thanks for the info, I had just jumped on to ask if anyone rebuilt VC’s. I’ve only given the input flange a turn by hand and it spins freely with very little resistance, but no motion is transferred to the final drive. I’ve not done enough reading yet to know if this is normal.
The uni joints don’t have any play, but they don’t feel too flash, so I’ll replace them anyway.
Leon, there is only one company currently having the correct equipment to rebuild VCs. That‘s Kern in Austria, you can read the whole story on their web page.
All other „rebuilds“ in the market are just refilled with new oil and seals, however they are not tested as per SDP specification (if tested at all).
With the unit joints, it’s worth doing some research. There’s a few things to be aware of. There is a generic unit joint that will fit, but from what I have read, they do not last very long. Genuine or OEM joints are much more expensive, and I am not sure if anyone is still selling them.
The other issue is many people have damaged the yoke the unit joint goes into when replacing. The metal is thin and easily damaged if everything is not lined up correctly.
I know I will need to do mine at some stage, but I have not looked to purchase parts for it yet.