Functionally, the spare should be where it was designed to be,
That was in the back originally.
Phill
That was in the back originally.
Phill
G'day,
over here the most wanted Merc rims are 7x15ET25 that came off W126's
and have the number 6222A - but as i said... over here, people beat
each other's heads for these :) See attachment regarding load/speed...
Ciao,
Martin
over here the most wanted Merc rims are 7x15ET25 that came off W126's
and have the number 6222A - but as i said... over here, people beat
each other's heads for these :) See attachment regarding load/speed...
Ciao,
Martin
Gday Martin,
Too wide a rim in my view, for many reasons.
Cheers.
Ken
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Martin Henning <martin@...>
wrote:
Too wide a rim in my view, for many reasons.
Cheers.
Ken
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Martin Henning <martin@...>
wrote:
>
> G'day,
>
> over here the most wanted Merc rims are 7x15ET25 that came off W126's
> and have the number 6222A - but as i said... over here, people beat
> each other's heads for these :) See attachment regarding load/speed...
>
> Ciao,
>
> Martin
>
>
>
>
> On 25.02.2009, at 10:26, tonyricketts99 wrote:
>
> > Wanted two 15inch steel wheels 6J H2 ET49 124 400 0602 New or S/H
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Martin Henning, DM5OY
> martin@...
> http://log.tigerbus.de
>
Hi Ken
I found a post # 3791 but that was from
Andrew, I'm new at all this maybe I was looking in the wrong place.
I deflate my BF Goodrich A/T but it is
still a battle to get it in. My real concern is that it may be putting pressure
on the gear shaft running back to the gearbox. (as my gearbox died not long
after I got the new wheels and tyres)
So yes with deflating the tyre and the
aid of a jack I can force the spare in but I can't see if the tyre is pushing on
the shaft between the gear lever and the gearbox.
Regards Barry
----- Original Message -----From: KenSent: Friday, February 27, 2009 7:25 PMSubject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Wanted two 15inch steel wheels
Gday Barry,
Concerning the ability to successfully fit a 215 75 15" wheel into the
Oz type stock wheel carrier underneath (NOT USA round clamshell), I
covered this topic here on a previous occasion, please refer to post
#3791 for the details, confirming the above size wheel in BFG A/T fits.
Clearly the only compromise is that it has to be deflated. We all carry
a tyre pump as a matter of course ... yes? Functionally, the spare
should be where it was designed to be, clearly a rear tyre carrier
upsets the natural balance over both axles, tends to be an undesired
high expense item and gets in the way a lot ... better to be without it
altogether in my view, unless you want to carry 2 spares.
Cheers.
Ken
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, "Barry & Di Pickering"
<dbpickering@ ...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ken
>
> I have also fitted the Merc rims and have put BF Goodrich A/T tyres.
These tyres are wider than the original VW and I have had problems when
loading the spare tyre. Do you know if your spare tyre cradle has been
extended to cope with the wider tyre?
>
> Regards Barry
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 9:00 AM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Wanted two 15inch steel wheels
>
>
>
> Gday Les, Tony and All,
>
> This is interesting.
>
> Just so happens a previous owner of my syncro back in 1992 fitted a
set
> of five Mercedes 124 400 0602 6Jx15H2 ET49 steel rims.
>
> They have been used ever since that year by subsequent owners,
including
> myself, they still are undamaged. Fully laden, my Trakka syncro is in
> excess of 2.5 tons.
>
> I compared the lug nuts that the previous owner had made for these
rims
> as opposed to the stock VW lug nuts and in the end, I decided the VW
lug
> nuts were a better fit and stronger. No doubt that should be looked at
> on a case by case basis.
>
> Some time ago Les, you gave me the method for measuring the ET, which
I
> did for these Merc rims stamped ET49. The result I got was ET31.
>
> I can confirm Les's methodology is correct because I also measured the
> original syncro 14" steel rims and came up with ET30.
>
> As I have said previously, when offroad during suspension travel on
> either lock, the 15" Goodyear Wrangler AT/R tyres rub and wear away
the
> black plastic trim at the rear of the wheel arch, I tend to think this
> has something to do with the fact these tyres are larger in diameter
> (706mm worn) than for example 15" BFG A/T tyres (700mm new), which I
> will be installing later and they should reduce or eliminate this
> rubbing. Other than the above minor quibble, with these Mercedes rims
> marked ET49, I have had no running problems elsewhere at all.
>
> Begs the question, as these 15" Merc rims are stamped ET49, how come
> they measure ET31?
>
> Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, "Les Harris"
> leslieharris@ wrote:
> >
> > Tony.
> >
> > ET 49 is a very, very long way off the correct offset. Why in the
> world do you want wheels that are so far off the design specs?
> >
> > And did you receive the CD's that I sent?
> >
> > Les
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: tonyricketts99
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 8:26 PM
> > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Wanted two 15inch steel wheels
> >
> >
> > Wanted two 15inch steel wheels 6J H2 ET49 124 400 0602 New or S/H
> >
>
Gday Barry,
Well 3791 works for me .... all I can do is repost it below ok.
Also I've added 3 pics in the PHOTOS section showing the extra grinding
I did to the existing cutouts, FYI.
I now have a 15" BFG A/T tyre on a Merc rim so I'll double check your
concern about clearance off the gear shaft. I don't have to use a jack
to force the clamshell back into place, I agree it is a tighter fit
(naturally) and you just have to shift the tyre sideways or fore and aft
to get the optimum position ... practice makes perfect.
UPDATE:
Given all the interest and posts on this topic, I decided to get down
and dirty today (it was raining outside anyway) and eyeball the spare
wheel holder vicinity. As they say, if you want a job done properly, do
it yourself. So now it seems to me, most of the info I've previously
"gleaned" online is in fact a load of old cobblers.
What I'm about to say may not be as momentous as when Les revealed here
recently about the availability of an Oz manufactured and sourced ring
and pinion gear but heh ... I reckon it's up there somewhere!
Firstly, let me be clear on this. I'm referring to the Australian
square-ish clamshell/skidplate, not the lightweight USA circular
clamshell.
So what I'm saying here is that .... yes, merely with the aid of a 100mm
electric grinder and several hours hard yakka, some but not all 15"
deflated tyres on rims WILL fit in the clamshell. This is with no
modifications nor adjustments to it nor clearance issues with the
steering rod nor loss of approach angle. All good, as long as you've
selected the right profile 15" tyre that will fit or perhaps even a
lower profile tyre on a 16" rim.
Good news I think for syncro owners generally, not good news for
manufacturers and retailers of rear wheel carriers nor those who've
already paid top dollars buying one, especially from overseas. Then
again, if you do have a rear wheel carrier, means now there is the
option to carry a second matching spare wheel or tyre for outback
touring.
The two critical criteria for this to work is the overall diameter and
width of the deflated tyre. Diameter size determines whether or not the
tyre can fit between the two fore/aft structural beams which, if you
take a look, have already been factory trimmed to allow room for the
tyre diameter. This is where I used the grinder to trim off more
material and on a more even curve, this is what's needed for this
project to be successful. More on that later. Now the width of the tyre
determines whether or not it can actually fit in the storage space
height and crucially, achieve clearance off the steering rod.
So now to the 3 tyres tested. For those interested, if your tyre isn't
mentioned here, you'll need to check your own to see if you are "in with
a chance" of similar success. May I suggest you report back here your
findings for the benefit of us all.
Best fit (easiest) was BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A LT215/75 R15. This
should please lots of Oz syncro owners.
Next best fit (larger diameter but still ok) was Dunlop Adventurer
GR78-15LT (8 ply). Probably rare these days.
Failed to fit (my present tyres) was Goodyear Wrangler AT/R 215/75 R15.
Tyre is too wide to clear steering rod.
For those wanting to check their tyre dimensions first, lay the tyre
flat on a level surface, a rough rule of thumb guide for success would
be a deflated tyre diameter no more than 704mm and not more than 208mm
overall width to clear the steering rod. Expect that different brand
tyres have different profiles in the 215 75 15 size, so at the end of
the day, the real acid test after checking the tyre is to then eyeball
the project and depending what you decide, tackle the grinding, refit
the tyre a few times as you go to see how things are progressing until
you are satisfied with the fit.
A tip is, after each time you do some more grinding and you then want to
check progress, reinsert the tyre, juggle it around for best fit, push
the clamshell up and see if you can get the clamshell onto the catch. If
so, there is room to grab the steering rod on the side and juggle it
back and forth to check for clearance. If it's clear, screw the bolt
home in stages, check a few times to see if clearance is still ok. If
you find there is a small amount of drag on the steering rod you think
you can live with, just apply a smear of rubber grease to the steering
rod where the tyre sidewall is touching and check again. A case of suck
it and see. If you decide their is some tyre drag but not a lot, try
lowering the clamshell on the fixing bolt using a few steel packing
washers, maybe 5-10 mm total will do, this may be enough to get
clearance. In which case, you should also add equivalent packing to the
clamshells left and right bump upstands.
If all else fails, plan to buy a set of 15" BFG All Terrains or
equivalents.
To get an idea of the area I'm referring to that needs additional
grinding, go to the photos that Bill has posted today and look for the
photo called "spare wheel carrier modifications t3 004". On the inside
of the structural beam, you can see where the factory shaping has been
done to accommodate the tyre diameter. That shaping is what needs
grinding back further on both beams and also removing any daggy steel
bits intruding. Finally, check for and round off any sharp metal edges
and paint the exposed bare steel with protective paint. I use POR 15,
the best.
I stress, for the relatively small amount of additional grinding
involved, this in no way compromises the structural integrity of the
beams.
Hope this is of some assistance. Any queries, please fire away.
Cheers.
Ken
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Barry & Di Pickering"
<dbpickering@...> wrote:
running back to the gearbox. (as my gearbox died not long after I got
the new wheels and tyres)
gear lever and the gearbox.
Well 3791 works for me .... all I can do is repost it below ok.
Also I've added 3 pics in the PHOTOS section showing the extra grinding
I did to the existing cutouts, FYI.
I now have a 15" BFG A/T tyre on a Merc rim so I'll double check your
concern about clearance off the gear shaft. I don't have to use a jack
to force the clamshell back into place, I agree it is a tighter fit
(naturally) and you just have to shift the tyre sideways or fore and aft
to get the optimum position ... practice makes perfect.
UPDATE:
Given all the interest and posts on this topic, I decided to get down
and dirty today (it was raining outside anyway) and eyeball the spare
wheel holder vicinity. As they say, if you want a job done properly, do
it yourself. So now it seems to me, most of the info I've previously
"gleaned" online is in fact a load of old cobblers.
What I'm about to say may not be as momentous as when Les revealed here
recently about the availability of an Oz manufactured and sourced ring
and pinion gear but heh ... I reckon it's up there somewhere!
Firstly, let me be clear on this. I'm referring to the Australian
square-ish clamshell/skidplate, not the lightweight USA circular
clamshell.
So what I'm saying here is that .... yes, merely with the aid of a 100mm
electric grinder and several hours hard yakka, some but not all 15"
deflated tyres on rims WILL fit in the clamshell. This is with no
modifications nor adjustments to it nor clearance issues with the
steering rod nor loss of approach angle. All good, as long as you've
selected the right profile 15" tyre that will fit or perhaps even a
lower profile tyre on a 16" rim.
Good news I think for syncro owners generally, not good news for
manufacturers and retailers of rear wheel carriers nor those who've
already paid top dollars buying one, especially from overseas. Then
again, if you do have a rear wheel carrier, means now there is the
option to carry a second matching spare wheel or tyre for outback
touring.
The two critical criteria for this to work is the overall diameter and
width of the deflated tyre. Diameter size determines whether or not the
tyre can fit between the two fore/aft structural beams which, if you
take a look, have already been factory trimmed to allow room for the
tyre diameter. This is where I used the grinder to trim off more
material and on a more even curve, this is what's needed for this
project to be successful. More on that later. Now the width of the tyre
determines whether or not it can actually fit in the storage space
height and crucially, achieve clearance off the steering rod.
So now to the 3 tyres tested. For those interested, if your tyre isn't
mentioned here, you'll need to check your own to see if you are "in with
a chance" of similar success. May I suggest you report back here your
findings for the benefit of us all.
Best fit (easiest) was BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A LT215/75 R15. This
should please lots of Oz syncro owners.
Next best fit (larger diameter but still ok) was Dunlop Adventurer
GR78-15LT (8 ply). Probably rare these days.
Failed to fit (my present tyres) was Goodyear Wrangler AT/R 215/75 R15.
Tyre is too wide to clear steering rod.
For those wanting to check their tyre dimensions first, lay the tyre
flat on a level surface, a rough rule of thumb guide for success would
be a deflated tyre diameter no more than 704mm and not more than 208mm
overall width to clear the steering rod. Expect that different brand
tyres have different profiles in the 215 75 15 size, so at the end of
the day, the real acid test after checking the tyre is to then eyeball
the project and depending what you decide, tackle the grinding, refit
the tyre a few times as you go to see how things are progressing until
you are satisfied with the fit.
A tip is, after each time you do some more grinding and you then want to
check progress, reinsert the tyre, juggle it around for best fit, push
the clamshell up and see if you can get the clamshell onto the catch. If
so, there is room to grab the steering rod on the side and juggle it
back and forth to check for clearance. If it's clear, screw the bolt
home in stages, check a few times to see if clearance is still ok. If
you find there is a small amount of drag on the steering rod you think
you can live with, just apply a smear of rubber grease to the steering
rod where the tyre sidewall is touching and check again. A case of suck
it and see. If you decide their is some tyre drag but not a lot, try
lowering the clamshell on the fixing bolt using a few steel packing
washers, maybe 5-10 mm total will do, this may be enough to get
clearance. In which case, you should also add equivalent packing to the
clamshells left and right bump upstands.
If all else fails, plan to buy a set of 15" BFG All Terrains or
equivalents.
To get an idea of the area I'm referring to that needs additional
grinding, go to the photos that Bill has posted today and look for the
photo called "spare wheel carrier modifications t3 004". On the inside
of the structural beam, you can see where the factory shaping has been
done to accommodate the tyre diameter. That shaping is what needs
grinding back further on both beams and also removing any daggy steel
bits intruding. Finally, check for and round off any sharp metal edges
and paint the exposed bare steel with protective paint. I use POR 15,
the best.
I stress, for the relatively small amount of additional grinding
involved, this in no way compromises the structural integrity of the
beams.
Hope this is of some assistance. Any queries, please fire away.
Cheers.
Ken
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Barry & Di Pickering"
<dbpickering@...> wrote:
>maybe I was looking in the wrong place.
> Hi Ken
>
> I found a post # 3791 but that was from Andrew, I'm new at all this
>real concern is that it may be putting pressure on the gear shaft
> I deflate my BF Goodrich A/T but it is still a battle to get it in. My
running back to the gearbox. (as my gearbox died not long after I got
the new wheels and tyres)
>spare in but I can't see if the tyre is pushing on the shaft between the
> So yes with deflating the tyre and the aid of a jack I can force the
gear lever and the gearbox.
>
> Regards Barry
>
Gday Barry and ALL,
Well I've just removed my rear wheel carrier today and relocated my 15"
Merc rim and BFG 215 75 15 T/A deflated tyre underneath the front ....
bloody marvellous springs to mind!
Means the van is a tad lighter and the load is better distributed than
before, backing into tight spaces is safer now, less chance of impacting
something now the spare has gone. Or I can put it back if I want to
carry 2 spares.
Some comments to add:
The gear change shaft above the tyre clears easily, even in G and
reverse.
How much material to grind out of the curve on the passenger side
structural beam is determined by the ability of the tyre tread to abut
the side upstand of the clamshell/skidplate. This is important, every mm
you can shift the tyre sideways (and forward) away from the steering rod
on the drivers side, means rubbing of the edge of the tyre tread on the
steering rod becomes less of an issue.
It's very worthwhile paying particular attention to how the spare is
fractionally fitted in the storage bay. Take a close look at the edge of
the tyre ... it's a series of rubber blocks interspersed with gaps. All
I did was rotate the tyre so the steering shaft is more adjacent to a
space rather than a block of tread. For peace of mind, grease the
steering rod where it's closest to the tyre edge (the steering rod is on
a slope, so the tyre and rod is close only in one spot).
I don't have power steering, so any friction between the tyre and
steering rod would show up as drag at the steering wheel. I've done a
test run, I can confirm there is no drag.
For those who may still have in place the short fibrous board located
directly under the bottom of the radiator (mine was partly in place and
very worse for wear when I bought my syncro), I suggest you will have to
take it out. I reckon the function it did is pretty much done anyway by
having the larger tyre now in place. I never liked the board where it
was anyway, I reckon it's the reason the rust starts in that front seam
adjacent to the front bumper bar. In its original position, that fibrous
board unfortunately directs stormwater and debris to the back of that
seam which sooner or later starts rusting.
I don't have to jack the clamshell closed and I don't have to fasten the
clamshell lower to get more clearances.
Now I can open the rear door easy as pie ... yes!! Or when it suits, I
can now fit my bike rack and bike.
I intend monitoring how things go over time. Hope this is of interest to
someone.
Cheers.
Ken
Well I've just removed my rear wheel carrier today and relocated my 15"
Merc rim and BFG 215 75 15 T/A deflated tyre underneath the front ....
bloody marvellous springs to mind!
Means the van is a tad lighter and the load is better distributed than
before, backing into tight spaces is safer now, less chance of impacting
something now the spare has gone. Or I can put it back if I want to
carry 2 spares.
Some comments to add:
The gear change shaft above the tyre clears easily, even in G and
reverse.
How much material to grind out of the curve on the passenger side
structural beam is determined by the ability of the tyre tread to abut
the side upstand of the clamshell/skidplate. This is important, every mm
you can shift the tyre sideways (and forward) away from the steering rod
on the drivers side, means rubbing of the edge of the tyre tread on the
steering rod becomes less of an issue.
It's very worthwhile paying particular attention to how the spare is
fractionally fitted in the storage bay. Take a close look at the edge of
the tyre ... it's a series of rubber blocks interspersed with gaps. All
I did was rotate the tyre so the steering shaft is more adjacent to a
space rather than a block of tread. For peace of mind, grease the
steering rod where it's closest to the tyre edge (the steering rod is on
a slope, so the tyre and rod is close only in one spot).
I don't have power steering, so any friction between the tyre and
steering rod would show up as drag at the steering wheel. I've done a
test run, I can confirm there is no drag.
For those who may still have in place the short fibrous board located
directly under the bottom of the radiator (mine was partly in place and
very worse for wear when I bought my syncro), I suggest you will have to
take it out. I reckon the function it did is pretty much done anyway by
having the larger tyre now in place. I never liked the board where it
was anyway, I reckon it's the reason the rust starts in that front seam
adjacent to the front bumper bar. In its original position, that fibrous
board unfortunately directs stormwater and debris to the back of that
seam which sooner or later starts rusting.
I don't have to jack the clamshell closed and I don't have to fasten the
clamshell lower to get more clearances.
Now I can open the rear door easy as pie ... yes!! Or when it suits, I
can now fit my bike rack and bike.
I intend monitoring how things go over time. Hope this is of interest to
someone.
Cheers.
Ken
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Ken" <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Gday Barry,
>
> Well 3791 works for me .... all I can do is repost it below ok.
>
> Also I've added 3 pics in the PHOTOS section showing the extra
grinding
> I did to the existing cutouts, FYI.
>
> I now have a 15" BFG A/T tyre on a Merc rim so I'll double check your
> concern about clearance off the gear shaft. I don't have to use a jack
> to force the clamshell back into place, I agree it is a tighter fit
> (naturally) and you just have to shift the tyre sideways or fore and
aft
> to get the optimum position ... practice makes perfect.
>
> UPDATE:
>
> Given all the interest and posts on this topic, I decided to get down
> and dirty today (it was raining outside anyway) and eyeball the spare
> wheel holder vicinity. As they say, if you want a job done properly,
do
> it yourself. So now it seems to me, most of the info I've previously
> "gleaned" online is in fact a load of old cobblers.
>
> What I'm about to say may not be as momentous as when Les revealed
here
> recently about the availability of an Oz manufactured and sourced ring
> and pinion gear but heh ... I reckon it's up there somewhere!
>
> Firstly, let me be clear on this. I'm referring to the Australian
> square-ish clamshell/skidplate, not the lightweight USA circular
> clamshell.
>
> So what I'm saying here is that .... yes, merely with the aid of a
100mm
> electric grinder and several hours hard yakka, some but not all 15"
> deflated tyres on rims WILL fit in the clamshell. This is with no
> modifications nor adjustments to it nor clearance issues with the
> steering rod nor loss of approach angle. All good, as long as you've
> selected the right profile 15" tyre that will fit or perhaps even a
> lower profile tyre on a 16" rim.
>
> Good news I think for syncro owners generally, not good news for
> manufacturers and retailers of rear wheel carriers nor those who've
> already paid top dollars buying one, especially from overseas. Then
> again, if you do have a rear wheel carrier, means now there is the
> option to carry a second matching spare wheel or tyre for outback
> touring.
>
> The two critical criteria for this to work is the overall diameter and
> width of the deflated tyre. Diameter size determines whether or not
the
> tyre can fit between the two fore/aft structural beams which, if you
> take a look, have already been factory trimmed to allow room for the
> tyre diameter. This is where I used the grinder to trim off more
> material and on a more even curve, this is what's needed for this
> project to be successful. More on that later. Now the width of the
tyre
> determines whether or not it can actually fit in the storage space
> height and crucially, achieve clearance off the steering rod.
>
> So now to the 3 tyres tested. For those interested, if your tyre isn't
> mentioned here, you'll need to check your own to see if you are "in
with
> a chance" of similar success. May I suggest you report back here your
> findings for the benefit of us all.
>
> Best fit (easiest) was BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A LT215/75 R15. This
> should please lots of Oz syncro owners.
>
> Next best fit (larger diameter but still ok) was Dunlop Adventurer
> GR78-15LT (8 ply). Probably rare these days.
>
> Failed to fit (my present tyres) was Goodyear Wrangler AT/R 215/75
R15.
> Tyre is too wide to clear steering rod.
>
> For those wanting to check their tyre dimensions first, lay the tyre
> flat on a level surface, a rough rule of thumb guide for success would
> be a deflated tyre diameter no more than 704mm and not more than 208mm
> overall width to clear the steering rod. Expect that different brand
> tyres have different profiles in the 215 75 15 size, so at the end of
> the day, the real acid test after checking the tyre is to then eyeball
> the project and depending what you decide, tackle the grinding, refit
> the tyre a few times as you go to see how things are progressing until
> you are satisfied with the fit.
>
> A tip is, after each time you do some more grinding and you then want
to
> check progress, reinsert the tyre, juggle it around for best fit, push
> the clamshell up and see if you can get the clamshell onto the catch.
If
> so, there is room to grab the steering rod on the side and juggle it
> back and forth to check for clearance. If it's clear, screw the bolt
> home in stages, check a few times to see if clearance is still ok. If
> you find there is a small amount of drag on the steering rod you think
> you can live with, just apply a smear of rubber grease to the steering
> rod where the tyre sidewall is touching and check again. A case of
suck
> it and see. If you decide their is some tyre drag but not a lot, try
> lowering the clamshell on the fixing bolt using a few steel packing
> washers, maybe 5-10 mm total will do, this may be enough to get
> clearance. In which case, you should also add equivalent packing to
the
> clamshells left and right bump upstands.
>
> If all else fails, plan to buy a set of 15" BFG All Terrains or
> equivalents.
>
> To get an idea of the area I'm referring to that needs additional
> grinding, go to the photos that Bill has posted today and look for the
> photo called "spare wheel carrier modifications t3 004". On the inside
> of the structural beam, you can see where the factory shaping has been
> done to accommodate the tyre diameter. That shaping is what needs
> grinding back further on both beams and also removing any daggy steel
> bits intruding. Finally, check for and round off any sharp metal edges
> and paint the exposed bare steel with protective paint. I use POR 15,
> the best.
>
> I stress, for the relatively small amount of additional grinding
> involved, this in no way compromises the structural integrity of the
> beams.
>
> Hope this is of some assistance. Any queries, please fire away.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Barry & Di Pickering"
> dbpickering@ wrote:
> >
> > Hi Ken
> >
> > I found a post # 3791 but that was from Andrew, I'm new at all this
> maybe I was looking in the wrong place.
> >
> > I deflate my BF Goodrich A/T but it is still a battle to get it in.
My
> real concern is that it may be putting pressure on the gear shaft
> running back to the gearbox. (as my gearbox died not long after I got
> the new wheels and tyres)
> >
> > So yes with deflating the tyre and the aid of a jack I can force the
> spare in but I can't see if the tyre is pushing on the shaft between
the
> gear lever and the gearbox.
> >
> > Regards Barry
> >
>