Won't start

Hi all, I have a problem where to engine will crank over, but not fire.
I have taken it to a REPCO service center and they have traced it back to no power getting to the module on the side of the distributor.
Trying to find out where the wires come from.
Help please.

Steve
Start with the ignition switch. (common problem)


> stephencriddle <criddle@wn.com.au> wrote:
>
> Hi all, I have a problem where to engine will crank over, but not fire.
> I have taken it to a REPCO service center and they have traced it back
> to no power getting to the module on the side of the distributor.
> Trying to find out where the wires come from.
> Help please.
>
> Steve
Hi, We have run a wire from the coil to the module and it runs ok.
Would it be OK to run from the coil?

Steve

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>
>
> Start with the ignition switch. (common problem)
>
>
> > stephencriddle <criddle@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all, I have a problem where to engine will crank over, but not fire.
> > I have taken it to a REPCO service center and they have traced it back
> > to no power getting to the module on the side of the distributor.
> > Trying to find out where the wires come from.
> > Help please.
> >
> > Steve
>
that's true, but that's not where the Hall Generator in the distributor gets its power from.
 
check for 12 volts on terminal 15 of the coil, black wire, with key on, engine off.
if that's there ....ignition switch is probably ok.
 
granted, the ignition switch is a weak link, and can cause all kinds of weird things, like headlights not working. Consider it for sure ...
but I'll be surprised if that's it. ( should always carry a spare one of those too - easy to plug in for a test, but a little harder to replace it )
 
so ....is there injector pulse, but no ignition ?
that is a very common no-start thing.
it's important to know if it's just lack of ignition, or lack of fuel injector signal too, or instead.   Also ...does the fuel pump pre-run like it should?
 
Often the hall unit in the distributor is the cause - if everything else is there, but no ign.
 
I would not consider owning a waterboxer vanagon without a spare known-good distributor on board.
You don't even have to install it in the engine for a test - , just remove the plug from the side of the distributor, plug it into your spare one, , turn on the key, turn dist with fingers...if you've got spark now.....you're back in business.
 
the power to the side of the distributor comes from the ECU.  I'm looking at page 97.105 in my Green Vanagon Bentley book.
I sure hope you guys have that book !
It's essential equipment if you own a syncro ........even if you don't work on it yourself.  World of good info in that book.
 
hope you get it fixed soon and painlessly !
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 3:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Won't start

 


Start with the ignition switch. (common problem)

> stephencriddle <criddle@wn.com. au> wrote:
>
> Hi all, I have a problem where to engine will crank over, but not fire.
> I have taken it to a REPCO service center and they have traced it back
> to no power getting to the module on the side of the distributor.
> Trying to find out where the wires come from.
> Help please.
>
> Steve

> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>

> check for 12 volts on terminal 15 of the coil, black wire, with key on,
> engine off.
> if that's there ....ignition switch is probably ok.
>

Yes, the power for the hall sensor comes from the ECU.
Maybe check the plug on the ECU?
If there is a problem with the wiring between the ECU and the hall sensor, can I just run a 12v wire from another source i.e. the coil?
Steve



--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
> >
>
> > check for 12 volts on terminal 15 of the coil, black wire, with key on,
> > engine off.
> > if that's there ....ignition switch is probably ok.
> >
>
> Yes, the power for the hall sensor comes from the ECU.
> Maybe check the plug on the ECU?
>
Just have a look at it as you may see something.

Much better to fix it properly.



> stephencriddle <criddle@wn.com.au> wrote:
>
> If there is a problem with the wiring between the ECU and the hall
> sensor, can I just run a 12v wire from another source i.e. the coil?
> Steve
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
> > >
> >
> > > check for 12 volts on terminal 15 of the coil, black wire, with key
> on,
> > > engine off.
> > > if that's there ....ignition switch is probably ok.
> > >
> >
> > Yes, the power for the hall sensor comes from the ECU.
> > Maybe check the plug on the ECU?
> >
I am no expert but just in case... I had same problem and it was the main wire going to the alternator! if it breaks from vibration (and you can't tell 'cos its in grey rubber tube) the engine won't start. Go figure.
Hi,
Just had a play around on the weekend, pulled out the ECM unit, sprayed some WD40 on the pins and the earth conection. Bingo it's now working!!!

Steve



--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "camthecam2004" <camthecam2004@...> wrote:
>
>
> I am no expert but just in case... I had same problem and it was the main wire going to the alternator! if it breaks from vibration (and you can't tell 'cos its in grey rubber tube) the engine won't start. Go figure.
>