92’ 2.1 motor rebuild

1
So having rebuilt my gearbox, we prepped a week long festival trip only for the motor to blow a head gasket the day before departure!
I took the head off and didn’t like what I saw, so decided to drop the motor for a full rebuild. I have Mark Hallet’s old Subi motor but am not ready for the conversion yet.
I now have the motor in bits, including splitting the case, and started cleaning up.
Found four broken engine mounts, a broken lower right alternator bracket (can be welded) and some idiot broke a bit of case at a corner of water pump but it’s been mended and seems to be holding ok.

Heads were skimmed the tiniest bit and valves are all 100% fine. Liners and pistons look good and are within spec, so thinking of reusing with new rings. I’ve yet to closely inspect the big ends and crank/camshaft, but it all looks and feels fine.
All head studs are looking in fine condition, no rust or bad threads, so I’m leaning towards not disturbing them and trusting they will torque up ok at reassembly.

Oil pump looks totally fine, water pump was replaced 2 years ago. So my shopping list looks like this:
1. Full gasket set
2. Piston rings set
3. Oil filter H14W04
4. Rear engine mounts x4
5. Coolant hoses
6. Thermostat
7. Temp sender unit (broken spade)
8. Flywheel dowel (broke one undoing pulleys)
9. Oil pump cover nuts
10. Extra sealant

I wondered if I’m missing anything else that must be renewed?
Also has anyone got a full list of the Syncro coolant hoses? GoWesty do a full kit for 2WD but not for Syncro..
Also looking at VanCafe for parts, their piston rings are Grant brand, any feedback or recommendations on these?

Finally, a reminder I still have Peter Kovelas’s large diff socket (needed to open gearbox) and it’s available to anyone here who needs it - just let me know.

If anyone has solid advice based on previous rebuild I’m listening!

Thanks in advance,
Gaetan
2
Hi Gaetan,
Suggest that you don’t recycle the big end bolts, get new correct grade bolts and nuts.
Could even be worthwhile to do the mains studs as well.

Had an engine blow years ago when we recycled.
If you can find someone to gas flow the inlet and exhaust ports, have found it to be worthwhile.
Peter


> On 5 May 2019, at 12:41 pm, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> So having rebuilt my gearbox, we prepped a week long festival trip only for the motor to blow a head gasket the day before departure!
> I took the head off and didn’t like what I saw, so decided to drop the motor for a full rebuild. I have Mark Hallet’s old Subi motor but am not ready for the conversion yet.
> I now have the motor in bits, including splitting the case, and started cleaning up.
> Found four broken engine mounts, a broken lower right alternator bracket (can be welded) and some idiot broke a bit of case at a corner of water pump but it’s been mended and seems to be holding ok.
>
> Heads were skimmed the tiniest bit and valves are all 100% fine. Liners and pistons look good and are within spec, so thinking of reusing with new rings. I’ve yet to closely inspect the big ends and crank/camshaft, but it all looks and feels fine.
> All head studs are looking in fine condition, no rust or bad threads, so I’m leaning towards not disturbing them and trusting they will torque up ok at reassembly.
>
> Oil pump looks totally fine, water pump was replaced 2 years ago. So my shopping list looks like this:
> 1. Full gasket set
> 2. Piston rings set
> 3. Oil filter H14W04
> 4. Rear engine mounts x4
> 5. Coolant hoses
> 6. Thermostat
> 7. Temp sender unit (broken spade)
> 8. Flywheel dowel (broke one undoing pulleys)
> 9. Oil pump cover nuts
> 10. Extra sealant
>
> I wondered if I’m missing anything else that must be renewed?
> Also has anyone got a full list of the Syncro coolant hoses? GoWesty do a full kit for 2WD but not for Syncro..
> Also looking at VanCafe for parts, their piston rings are Grant brand, any feedback or recommendations on these?
>
> Finally, a reminder I still have Peter Kovelas’s large diff socket (needed to open gearbox) and it’s available to anyone here who needs it - just let me know.
>
> If anyone has solid advice based on previous rebuild I’m listening!
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Gaetan
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: lepews@me.com
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>
3
Use a set of bolts from a air cooled 1600 . They never fail . Just a touch of grinding to fit

Sent from my iPhone

> On 5 May 2019, at 6:07 pm, Peter SCHWEINSBERG peter@peterandval.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Gaetan,
> Suggest that you don’t recycle the big end bolts, get new correct grade bolts and nuts.
> Could even be worthwhile to do the mains studs as well.
>
> Had an engine blow years ago when we recycled.
> If you can find someone to gas flow the inlet and exhaust ports, have found it to be worthwhile.
> Peter
>
>
>> On 5 May 2019, at 12:41 pm, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>>
>> So having rebuilt my gearbox, we prepped a week long festival trip only for the motor to blow a head gasket the day before departure!
>> I took the head off and didn’t like what I saw, so decided to drop the motor for a full rebuild. I have Mark Hallet’s old Subi motor but am not ready for the conversion yet.
>> I now have the motor in bits, including splitting the case, and started cleaning up.
>> Found four broken engine mounts, a broken lower right alternator bracket (can be welded) and some idiot broke a bit of case at a corner of water pump but it’s been mended and seems to be holding ok.
>>
>> Heads were skimmed the tiniest bit and valves are all 100% fine. Liners and pistons look good and are within spec, so thinking of reusing with new rings. I’ve yet to closely inspect the big ends and crank/camshaft, but it all looks and feels fine.
>> All head studs are looking in fine condition, no rust or bad threads, so I’m leaning towards not disturbing them and trusting they will torque up ok at reassembly.
>>
>> Oil pump looks totally fine, water pump was replaced 2 years ago. So my shopping list looks like this:
>> 1. Full gasket set
>> 2. Piston rings set
>> 3. Oil filter H14W04
>> 4. Rear engine mounts x4
>> 5. Coolant hoses
>> 6. Thermostat
>> 7. Temp sender unit (broken spade)
>> 8. Flywheel dowel (broke one undoing pulleys)
>> 9. Oil pump cover nuts
>> 10. Extra sealant
>>
>> I wondered if I’m missing anything else that must be renewed?
>> Also has anyone got a full list of the Syncro coolant hoses? GoWesty do a full kit for 2WD but not for Syncro..
>> Also looking at VanCafe for parts, their piston rings are Grant brand, any feedback or recommendations on these?
>>
>> Finally, a reminder I still have Peter Kovelas’s large diff socket (needed to open gearbox) and it’s available to anyone here who needs it - just let me know.
>>
>> If anyone has solid advice based on previous rebuild I’m listening!
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Gaetan
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>> Posted by: lepews@me.com
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Peter SCHWEINSBERG <peter@peterandval.com>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>
4
air cleaner / spark plugs

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 12:43 PM lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

So having rebuilt my gearbox, we prepped a week long festival trip only for the motor to blow a head gasket the day before departure!
I took the head off and didn’t like what I saw, so decided to drop the motor for a full rebuild. I have Mark Hallet’s old Subi motor but am not ready for the conversion yet.
I now have the motor in bits, including splitting the case, and started cleaning up.
Found four broken engine mounts, a broken lower right alternator bracket (can be welded) and some idiot broke a bit of case at a corner of water pump but it’s been mended and seems to be holding ok.

Heads were skimmed the tiniest bit and valves are all 100% fine. Liners and pistons look good and are within spec, so thinking of reusing with new rings. I’ve yet to closely inspect the big ends and crank/camshaft, but it all looks and feels fine.
All head studs are looking in fine condition, no rust or bad threads, so I’m leaning towards not disturbing them and trusting they will torque up ok at reassembly.

Oil pump looks totally fine, water pump was replaced 2 years ago. So my shopping list looks like this:
1. Full gasket set
2. Piston rings set
3. Oil filter H14W04
4. Rear engine mounts x4
5. Coolant hoses
6. Thermostat
7. Temp sender unit (broken spade)
8. Flywheel dowel (broke one undoing pulleys)
9. Oil pump cover nuts
10. Extra sealant

I wondered if I’m missing anything else that must be renewed?
Also has anyone got a full list of the Syncro coolant hoses? GoWesty do a full kit for 2WD but not for Syncro..
Also looking at VanCafe for parts, their piston rings are Grant brand, any feedback or recommendations on these?

Finally, a reminder I still have Peter Kovelas’s large diff socket (needed to open gearbox) and it’s available to anyone here who needs it - just let me know.

If anyone has solid advice based on previous rebuild I’m listening!

Thanks in advance,
Gaetan

5
Hi Gaetan.

Am going down the same path at the moment, and will post a much longer reply later when I have more time.

This is my fourth waterboxer rebuild. The three I did for my own vehicles all lasted for decades (the one in the current van is only being rebuilt because I had to pull it out at 310K for broken exhaust stud replacement, otherwise it is running sweet except for an occasional cam-follower clatter on startup).

The fourth motor was one that I did for a mate after his wife ignored the flashing red coolant light, the steam, and the gradual loss of power as she drove it home without coolant.

He was as poor as a church-mouse so we did a budget top-end rebuild (against my better judgement) just to get him back on the road as cheaply as possible.

You can imagine the outcome. A year later the engine threw a rod - which takes me back to a lesson learnt rebuilding air-cooled VW's - do it once, and do it right.

Buy only the best components, take the time, and recondition or replace EVERY component.

"Reconditioned" engines are churned out at a rapid rate. Building the engine yourself gives you the opportunity to meticulously clean, examine, measure and compare every single component. It will take you ten times as long, but it will pay off in the long run.

Just a few important points;

Weigh up the options before removing the con-rods, as once removed, the 'stretch bolts' will need replacing. Make sure you can source them before you decide. Genuine bolts are the only way to go, unless you want to hunt down some top quality fittings from elsewhere. Generic bolts are a disaster waiting to happen.

I sourced some genuine VW rods for less than the cost of the stretch bolts.

Coolant hoses are hard to find. I bought some from Tooley's, some from Mick Motors, GoWesty, VanCafe, JustKampers and a few other obscure places that I will post later.

Replace your cam followers with quality items now, it will save you doing it later. Use cam lube for re-assembly.

Camshafts are as rare as. I found an aftermarket one, but have yet to assess the quality.

It is only necessary to buy some of the parts overseas. I have been buying top-quality parts from Tooley Imports since the early 1970's. There are many other good Australian suppliers.

By the way, if you search the files on this site you will find an excellent guide to coolant hoses put together by Ken several years ago.

More later.

Cheers, Roger.

6
HI Gaetan,

if I were you I would just get it on a truck to Melbourne and have Luke install the Subi motor. Prob $6-7k plus your freight. Job done no more old VW motor to worry about.
Mark
7
"Old VW motors” , especially 2.1s ?
I love them.

But the 3.6 Porsche is better.




On 7 May 2019, at 9:47 am, m.mullet@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



HI Gaetan,

if I were you I would just get it on a truck to Melbourne and have Luke install the Subi motor. Prob $6-7k plus your freight. Job done no more old VW motor to worry about.
Mark



8
I hear you Mark, but having just dropped a ton of cash on rebuilding the gearbox I'm not quite ready for the conversion yet. 
Hoping the waterbox will keep me going for some time while I rebuild your old EJ251 and research the conversion process.

Meant to ask you by the way - can you tell me anything more about your old motor, as in which model & year car it came from, estimated mileage and what you thought it needed?

Thanks in advance,
Gaetan
9
Thanks for all the info Roger.

At this time it looks like I'm unable to source conrod bolts, so will clean up crankshaft but not dismantle the big ends. They all feel fine anyway, and the bearings and journals I am able to inspect are in great condition.
Same with small end bushings, camshaft, followers, pistons, liners and wrist pins, pushrods, valves, heads - all are in good condition and within spec.

So I am getting all renewables - gaskets, filters and a few things in need of replacement, and will carefully reassemble after a thorough cleanup.

Hopefully this motor will tie me over until ready for Subi conversion, looking at parts availability it seems its days may be numbered! 
10
Please don't reassemble a wbx with the same big end bearings. They get absolutely hammered with stretch bolts. Use 1.9 bolts or whole rod set (surprisingly cheap). This is the most important part of a wbx rebuild because it has the most potential to do irreversible damage. I.E. BANG!
Greg E 

On ‎Tuesday‎, ‎7‎ ‎May‎ ‎2019‎ ‎11‎:‎18‎:‎29‎ ‎AM‎ ‎AEST, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Thanks for all the info Roger.


At this time it looks like I'm unable to source conrod bolts, so will clean up crankshaft but not dismantle the big ends. They all feel fine anyway, and the bearings and journals I am able to inspect are in great condition.
Same with small end bushings, camshaft, followers, pistons, liners and wrist pins, pushrods, valves, heads - all are in good condition and within spec.

So I am getting all renewables - gaskets, filters and a few things in need of replacement, and will carefully reassemble after a thorough cleanup.

Hopefully this motor will tie me over until ready for Subi conversion, looking at parts availability it seems its days may be numbered! 
11

Hi Greg,

 

Thanks for the warning. What’s your source for the surprisingly cheap rod set?

 

Also are the 1.9 bolts you mentioned the non-stretch type?

 

Cheers

Gaetan

 

From: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of "Greg Esposito gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, 7 May 2019 at 10:22 am
To: "lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: 92’ 2.1 motor rebuild

 

 

Please don't reassemble a wbx with the same big end bearings. They get absolutely hammered with stretch bolts. Use 1.9 bolts or whole rod set (surprisingly cheap). This is the most important part of a wbx rebuild because it has the most potential to do irreversible damage. I.E. BANG!

Greg E 

 

On ‎Tuesday‎, ‎7‎ ‎May‎ ‎2019‎ ‎11‎:‎18‎:‎29‎ ‎AM‎ ‎AEST, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

 

 

Thanks for all the info Roger.

 

At this time it looks like I'm unable to source conrod bolts, so will clean up crankshaft but not dismantle the big ends. They all feel fine anyway, and the bearings and journals I am able to inspect are in great condition..

Same with small end bushings, camshaft, followers, pistons, liners and wrist pins, pushrods, valves, heads - all are in good condition and within spec.

 

So I am getting all renewables - gaskets, filters and a few things in need of replacement, and will carefully reassemble after a thorough cleanup.

 

Hopefully this motor will tie me over until ready for Subi conversion, looking at parts availability it seems its days may be numbered! 

12
Yes Gaetan, 
the bolts fitted to the 1.9 motor used in the t3 before the 2.1 was released.
Brickwerks have new rods at a very reasonable price. By the time you replace the small end bush and bolts you are better off buying these. 

Greg

On Tuesday, 7 May 2019, 3:21:54 pm AEST, Gaetan lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Hi Greg,

 

Thanks for the warning. What’s your source for the surprisingly cheap rod set?

 

Also are the 1.9 bolts you mentioned the non-stretch type?

 

Cheers

Gaetan

 

From: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of "Greg Esposito gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, 7 May 2019 at 10:22 am
To: "lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: 92’ 2.1 motor rebuild

 

 

Please don't reassemble a wbx with the same big end bearings. They get absolutely hammered with stretch bolts. Use 1.9 bolts or whole rod set (surprisingly cheap). This is the most important part of a wbx rebuild because it has the most potential to do irreversible damage. I.E. BANG!

Greg E 

 

On ‎Tuesday‎, ‎7‎ ‎May‎ ‎2019‎ ‎11‎:‎18‎:‎29‎ ‎AM‎ ‎AEST, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

 

 

Thanks for all the info Roger.

 

At this time it looks like I'm unable to source conrod bolts, so will clean up crankshaft but not dismantle the big ends. They all feel fine anyway, and the bearings and journals I am able to inspect are in great condition..

Same with small end bushings, camshaft, followers, pistons, liners and wrist pins, pushrods, valves, heads - all are in good condition and within spec.

 

So I am getting all renewables - gaskets, filters and a few things in need of replacement, and will carefully reassemble after a thorough cleanup.

 

Hopefully this motor will tie me over until ready for Subi conversion, looking at parts availability it seems its days may be numbered! 

13
Hi guys Can you make Luke’s contact details available to me please 

Regards 

Jacques Greyling 
0416107975


On 7 May 2019, at 16:34, Greg Esposito gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Yes Gaetan, 
the bolts fitted to the 1.9 motor used in the t3 before the 2.1 was released.
Brickwerks have new rods at a very reasonable price. By the time you replace the small end bush and bolts you are better off buying these. 

Greg

On Tuesday, 7 May 2019, 3:21:54 pm AEST, Gaetan lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Hi Greg,

 

Thanks for the warning. What’s your source for the surprisingly cheap rod set?

 

Also are the 1.9 bolts you mentioned the non-stretch type?

 

Cheers

Gaetan

 

From: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of "Greg Esposito gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, 7 May 2019 at 10:22 am
To: "lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: 92’ 2.1 motor rebuild

 

 

Please don't reassemble a wbx with the same big end bearings. They get absolutely hammered with stretch bolts. Use 1.9 bolts or whole rod set (surprisingly cheap). This is the most important part of a wbx rebuild because it has the most potential to do irreversible damage. I.E. BANG!

Greg E 

 

On ‎Tuesday‎, ‎7‎ ‎May‎ ‎2019‎ ‎11‎:‎18‎:‎29‎ ‎AM‎ ‎AEST, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

 

 

Thanks for all the info Roger.

 

At this time it looks like I'm unable to source conrod bolts, so will clean up crankshaft but not dismantle the big ends. They all feel fine anyway, and the bearings and journals I am able to inspect are in great condition...

Same with small end bushings, camshaft, followers, pistons, liners and wrist pins, pushrods, valves, heads - all are in good condition and within spec.

 

So I am getting all renewables - gaskets, filters and a few things in need of replacement, and will carefully reassemble after a thorough cleanup.

 

Hopefully this motor will tie me over until ready for Subi conversion, looking at parts availability it seems its days may be numbered! 

14
Hi Gaetan,

Needs head gaskets, helicoil bad stud, valve stem seals.
Can't guarantee you'll stop the oil burn, that could be oil rings.
Can't guarantee the head won't go again.
But guess what it was still running pretty well.
Came from an 03 Liberty auto. Computer can come from 99-03.
Good luck

Mark
15
Thanks Mark, that’s super useful. 

It’s a bit of a long term project anyway, I’ll prolly strip most of it to see what’s up, then rebuilt appropriately. 
I’ve never done a conversion so will research, I believe we have some good people locally to do it once I have the motor ready. 
I saw it’s missing some belt cover, I assume that’s easy to get from wreckers?
Also, do you know how many - if any - of the ancillaries can be used from the VW motor, and what I need to find to have a complete motor? 

Thanks in advance!
Gaetan

Sent from my iPhone

On 8 May 2019, at 20:01, m.mullet@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi Gaetan,

Needs head gaskets, helicoil bad stud, valve stem seals.
Can't guarantee you'll stop the oil burn, that could be oil rings.
Can't guarantee the head won't go again.
But guess what it was still running pretty well.
Came from an 03 Liberty auto. Computer can come from 99-03.
Good luck

Mark

16
Have you tried 

https://au.vwheritage.com/


Peter




On 7 May 2019, at 11:16 am, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



Thanks for all the info Roger.

At this time it looks like I'm unable to source conrod bolts, so will clean up crankshaft but not dismantle the big ends. They all feel fine anyway, and the bearings and journals I am able to inspect are in great condition.
Same with small end bushings, camshaft, followers, pistons, liners and wrist pins, pushrods, valves, heads - all are in good condition and within spec.

So I am getting all renewables - gaskets, filters and a few things in need of replacement, and will carefully reassemble after a thorough cleanup.

Hopefully this motor will tie me over until ready for Subi conversion, looking at parts availability it seems its days may be numbered! 



17
Hi Gaetan

I purchased a set of genuine conrods (complete with bolts, nuts and small end bushes) from VWHeritage back in 2015 for about AU$270 + freight. They are identical in every way to the existing rods, and at the time it was cheaper than buying new bolts and having the old rods measured for straightness, closed and honed, re-bushed and reamed.

As for the availability of parts, it is better now than it was when I bought my first WBX back in the 1990's. There's very little that you can't get, and what you can't get can be made. I don't know if you can say the same for a Subie in twenty or thirty years time.

At the risk of offending others, I won't ask if the Subie-engined transmissions will last that long - they were originally designed to handle 68 BHP in a 1973 1700 kombi.

The WBX engines only get a bad rap when they have been abused by lack of maintenance or improper coolant. They are an incredible motor that lasts for extremely high mileage, and unlike most 'disposable' modern engines, don't have to be thrown away when they wear out. (Think about the cost of replacing two or four cams, instead of one).

The WBX has the capacity for three crankshaft regrinds. With proper care they can be rebuilt several times and last for many more decades.

Don't think of it as a slow car. It's a fast house.

Cheers,

Roger.
18

Thanks Roger, all good info.

 

Having had a close inspection I’m likely to reuse most things, there is actually precious little wear on all the internals I’ve looked at so far. Pistons and liners are round and within spec, heads are fine with valves 100% good, and while I haven’t disturbed the conrod bolts, all the bushes, journals and shells I am able to look at indicate that this motor was not abused, and will be happy for many, many more miles. Cam followers also look as good as new and measure up a-ok.

 

Once everything is cleaned up and with all fresh gaskets and renewables, I am pretty sure it will be as good as gold. It never drank any oil or made any noises, I think the only thing that let it down is it hadn’t had a rebuild in a long, long time so the head gaskets were simply past their shelf life, and the rings were ready for renewal, allowing a bit of blow by.

I’m going to have another really close look at all internals before reassembly, but at this point it’s not looking like it needs any machine work or new parts. I did toy with the idea of a new set of pistons and liners (USD810/AUD1,300 inc ship. for a 2200cc complete set) and also a set of new conrods (GBP111/AUD322 inc ship.) but I can’t see the point in renewing anything that isn’t worn.

 

I’ll keep everyone posted 😊

 

Cheers

Gaetan

 

From: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, 8 May 2019 at 12:06 pm
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: 92’ 2.1 motor rebuild

 

 

Hi Gaetan

 

I purchased a set of genuine conrods (complete with bolts, nuts and small end bushes) from VWHeritage back in 2015 for about AU$270 + freight. They are identical in every way to the existing rods, and at the time it was cheaper than buying new bolts and having the old rods measured for straightness, closed and honed, re-bushed and reamed.

 

As for the availability of parts, it is better now than it was when I bought my first WBX back in the 1990's. There's very little that you can't get, and what you can't get can be made. I don't know if you can say the same for a Subie in twenty or thirty years time.

 

At the risk of offending others, I won't ask if the Subie-engined transmissions will last that long - they were originally designed to handle 68 BHP in a 1973 1700 kombi.

 

The WBX engines only get a bad rap when they have been abused by lack of maintenance or improper coolant. They are an incredible motor that lasts for extremely high mileage, and unlike most 'disposable' modern engines, don't have to be thrown away when they wear out. (Think about the cost of replacing two or four cams, instead of one).

 

The WBX has the capacity for three crankshaft regrinds. With proper care they can be rebuilt several times and last for many more decades. 

 

Don't think of it as a slow car. It's a fast house.

 

Cheers,

 

Roger.

19
So you are reusing the stretch bolts???? Greg

On Wednesday, 8 May 2019, 8:40:23 pm AEST, Gaetan lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Thanks Roger, all good info.

 

Having had a close inspection I’m likely to reuse most things, there is actually precious little wear on all the internals I’ve looked at so far. Pistons and liners are round and within spec, heads are fine with valves 100% good, and while I haven’t disturbed the conrod bolts, all the bushes, journals and shells I am able to look at indicate that this motor was not abused, and will be happy for many, many more miles. Cam followers also look as good as new and measure up a-ok.

 

Once everything is cleaned up and with all fresh gaskets and renewables, I am pretty sure it will be as good as gold. It never drank any oil or made any noises, I think the only thing that let it down is it hadn’t had a rebuild in a long, long time so the head gaskets were simply past their shelf life, and the rings were ready for renewal, allowing a bit of blow by.

I’m going to have another really close look at all internals before reassembly, but at this point it’s not looking like it needs any machine work or new parts. I did toy with the idea of a new set of pistons and liners (USD810/AUD1,300 inc ship. for a 2200cc complete set) and also a set of new conrods (GBP111/AUD322 inc ship..) but I can’t see the point in renewing anything that isn’t worn.

 

I’ll keep everyone posted 😊

 

Cheers

Gaetan

 

From: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, 8 May 2019 at 12:06 pm
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: 92’ 2.1 motor rebuild

 

 

Hi Gaetan

 

I purchased a set of genuine conrods (complete with bolts, nuts and small end bushes) from VWHeritage back in 2015 for about AU$270 + freight. They are identical in every way to the existing rods, and at the time it was cheaper than buying new bolts and having the old rods measured for straightness, closed and honed, re-bushed and reamed.

 

As for the availability of parts, it is better now than it was when I bought my first WBX back in the 1990's. There's very little that you can't get, and what you can't get can be made. I don't know if you can say the same for a Subie in twenty or thirty years time.

 

At the risk of offending others, I won't ask if the Subie-engined transmissions will last that long - they were originally designed to handle 68 BHP in a 1973 1700 kombi.

 

The WBX engines only get a bad rap when they have been abused by lack of maintenance or improper coolant. They are an incredible motor that lasts for extremely high mileage, and unlike most 'disposable' modern engines, don't have to be thrown away when they wear out. (Think about the cost of replacing two or four cams, instead of one).

 

The WBX has the capacity for three crankshaft regrinds. With proper care they can be rebuilt several times and last for many more decades. 

 

Don't think of it as a slow car. It's a fast house.

 

Cheers,

 

Roger.

20

They have not been disturbed Greg, I wouldn’t undo them then reuse.

 

Cheers

Gaetan

 

From: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of "Greg Esposito gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, 8 May 2019 at 6:50 pm
To: "Gaetan lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: 92’ 2.1 motor rebuild

 

 

So you are reusing the stretch bolts???? Greg

 

On Wednesday, 8 May 2019, 8:40:23 pm AEST, Gaetan lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

 

 

Thanks Roger, all good info.

 

Having had a close inspection I’m likely to reuse most things, there is actually precious little wear on all the internals I’ve looked at so far. Pistons and liners are round and within spec, heads are fine with valves 100% good, and while I haven’t disturbed the conrod bolts, all the bushes, journals and shells I am able to look at indicate that this motor was not abused, and will be happy for many, many more miles. Cam followers also look as good as new and measure up a-ok.

 

Once everything is cleaned up and with all fresh gaskets and renewables, I am pretty sure it will be as good as gold. It never drank any oil or made any noises, I think the only thing that let it down is it hadn’t had a rebuild in a long, long time so the head gaskets were simply past their shelf life, and the rings were ready for renewal, allowing a bit of blow by.

I’m going to have another really close look at all internals before reassembly, but at this point it’s not looking like it needs any machine work or new parts. I did toy with the idea of a new set of pistons and liners (USD810/AUD1,300 inc ship. for a 2200cc complete set) and also a set of new conrods (GBP111/AUD322 inc ship..) but I can’t see the point in renewing anything that isn’t worn.

 

I’ll keep everyone posted 😊

 

Cheers

Gaetan

 

From: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, 8 May 2019 at 12:06 pm
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: 92’ 2.1 motor rebuild

 

 

Hi Gaetan

 

I purchased a set of genuine conrods (complete with bolts, nuts and small end bushes) from VWHeritage back in 2015 for about AU$270 + freight. They are identical in every way to the existing rods, and at the time it was cheaper than buying new bolts and having the old rods measured for straightness, closed and honed, re-bushed and reamed.

 

As for the availability of parts, it is better now than it was when I bought my first WBX back in the 1990's. There's very little that you can't get, and what you can't get can be made. I don't know if you can say the same for a Subie in twenty or thirty years time.

 

At the risk of offending others, I won't ask if the Subie-engined transmissions will last that long - they were originally designed to handle 68 BHP in a 1973 1700 kombi.

 

The WBX engines only get a bad rap when they have been abused by lack of maintenance or improper coolant. They are an incredible motor that lasts for extremely high mileage, and unlike most 'disposable' modern engines, don't have to be thrown away when they wear out. (Think about the cost of replacing two or four cams, instead of one).

 

The WBX has the capacity for three crankshaft regrinds. With proper care they can be rebuilt several times and last for many more decades. 

 

Don't think of it as a slow car. It's a fast house.

 

Cheers,

 

Roger.