Bostig installation.

1
Unfortunateley i was unable to attend Old Bar as I had not completed the installation of the Bostig kit for the 2lt Ford Zebec engine.

Project is now complete and the first couple of drives have been done without incident. I have a bit of a vibration, I think the tailshaft may be a bit out but its no so bad I can't drive. I will try and sort that out soon.

It was an interesting process, a very complete kit and on review a good set of written instructions. 

I also took the opportunity to remove and clean the fuel tank, a tight fit but not a too bad. I had had some fuel lines in poor condition so I replace the lot as well as the grommets and gravity valves. Gauge sensor was all in good nic,

I also installed a reco gearbox from GoWesty which was also a truck lot off money but my old one was struggling. I'll get Rudt to rebuild that as a spare.

I have install the stainless pipes from Richard which went well and my old ones were in poor condition when I rewmoved then. Thanks Richard

So a few more trail runs to see if this was a wise investment or folly, but it will keep my beast on the road and hopefully get me to WA and back next year with more reliability than I have previously experience.

I have attached some photos trust they are visible.

Cheer

PeterK
Gold Coast




2
Looks great peter.

How is the clearance underneath?

Cheers,

Skot

On 6/10/2017 12:32 AM, peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Unfortunateley i was unable to attend Old Bar as I had not completed the installation of the Bostig kit for the 2lt Ford Zebec engine.


Project is now complete and the first couple of drives have been done without incident. I have a bit of a vibration, I think the tailshaft may be a bit out but its no so bad I can't drive. I will try and sort that out soon.

It was an interesting process, a very complete kit and on review a good set of written instructions.

I also took the opportunity to remove and clean the fuel tank, a tight fit but not a too bad. I had had some fuel lines in poor condition so I replace the lot as well as the grommets and gravity valves. Gauge sensor was all in good nic,

I also installed a reco gearbox from GoWesty which was also a truck lot off money but my old one was struggling. I'll get Rudt to rebuild that as a spare.

I ha ve install the stainless pipes from Richard which went well and my old ones were in poor condition when I rewmoved then. Thanks Richard

So a few more trail runs to see if this was a wise investment or folly, but it will keep my beast on the road and hopefully get me to WA and back next year with more reliability than I have previously experience.

I have attached some photos trust they are visible.

Cheer

PeterK
Gold Coast





--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
3
Hi Peter, great install photos and looking very neat.  I've been running a Subaru EJ25 with enjoyment for years and the Zetec should do the same for you.

You mentioned driveshaft vibration and I had the same earlier this year due to a bad U-joint, I replaced the U-joint and had the shaft balanced which was OK for a little while but then it returned.  Guessing the other U-joint or the donut sleeve, not happy.

Anyway I had a solid shaft built locally like the GoWesty one and its been running trouble free for about 7000 km's now.  If you can't find/fix the vibration then maybe a solid shaft is an option for you aswell, or any one else for that matter. If there's any interest I could get some more made.

Enjoy putting some Km's on your new engine.

Cheers,
Uwe
4
Hi Peter,

That is one clean looking install, what is a Zetec out of in Australian terms?

On the vibration issue, I am working thought the same in my syncro at the moment. I have spent 2 full days under there getting the uni joint angles up to spec and laser aligning the gearboxes. Hopefully this fixes the issue.

What I have noticed however is that both my front and rear boxes are 6mm from the centerline of the body, so never mind putting the tailshaft in the middle. and secondly that my uni angles are 4.8' at the rear and 2.4'at the front. 
 It looks that the aftermarket engine mounts that I used are too tall, so I am dropping the engine by 6mm and that my FWD front diff mount has collapsed, will know in the next few days if that made all the difference.

Try measuring those angles? from what I have read the uni angles need to be the same to cancel out each others harmonics.

Nils


5
Thanks.

It's a 2003 Ford focus 2lt motor dual overhead cam.

It's only a small increase in power 70kw to 96kw and 159nm to 183nm (thats when every thing was new)

But i'm looking for reliability.

I have removed to the tailshaft and the vibration is gone.

I was speaking with Bruce in SA about it and I mentioned that I have a GoWesty transmission and he pointed out that the USA diff is a different ring and pinion. I am thinking this could be part of the problem. Even though the front is disconnected via the de-coupler there could still be some passive interaction.

So now I need to work out if I change the front or rear ring and pinion to have them matching.
I think my current situation is:

The rear diff   4.86 (GoWesty Trans)

The front diff   5.43 (original)

Obviously they need to match, my error I could have had the correct one installed when I purchased the gearbox but never even thought about it.

Perhaps I'll swap the the one from my old transaxle into the new one. 

Please chime in with thoughts anyone.

It never stops!



6
Too much power in a syncro = broken gearboxes and more work for Rudi.

Hence, the mild increase in power and probable massive increase in reliability is a great Idea.

How is the clearance underneath? Same or better than before.

Cheers,

Skot


On 8/10/2017 11:21 AM, peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Thanks.


It's a 2003 Ford focus 2lt motor dual overhead cam.

It's only a small increase in power 70kw to 96kw and 159nm to 183nm (thats when every thing was new)

But i'm looking for reliability.

I have removed to the tailshaft and the vibration is gone.

I was speaking with Bruce in SA about it and I mentioned that I have a GoWesty transmission and he pointed out that the USA diff is a different ring and pinion. I am thinking this could be part of the problem. Even though the front is disconnected via the de-coupler there could still be some passive interaction.

So now I need to work out if I change the front or rear ring and pinion to have them matching.
I think my current situation is:

The rear diff 4.86 (GoWesty Trans)

The front diff 5.43 (original)

Obviously they need to match, my error I could have had the correct one installed when I purchased the gearbox but never even thought about it.

Perhaps I'll swap the the one from my old transaxle into the new one.

Please chime in with thoughts anyone.

It never stops!




--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
7
The clearance is 260mm.

I didn't measure it before the old motor came out.

But it looks at least as good also has an improve departure angle.


8
That is a problem with a lot of engine conversions.

Either the deck lid gets raised or the sump drags along the ground. Even some suby conversions have the sump problem.

My 2.5 ended up with the shortened sump just below the original syncro skid frame. Hence I added an aluminium checker plate skid pan so save the sump.

See photo pre-skid pan and sump cover.

Skot.

On 8/10/2017 2:11 PM, peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

The clearance is 260mm.


I didn't measure it before the old motor came out.

But it looks at least as good also has an improve departure angle.



--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
9
What’s your clearance ?



On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 at 1:42 pm, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

That is a problem with a lot of engine conversions.

Either the deck lid gets raised or the sump drags along the ground. Even some suby conversions have the sump problem.

My 2.5 ended up with the shortened sump just below the original syncro skid frame. Hence I added an aluminium checker plate skid pan so save the sump.

See photo pre-skid pan and sump cover.

Skot.

On 8/10/2017 2:11 PM, peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

The clearance is 260mm.


I didn't measure it before the old motor came out.

But it looks at least as good also has an improve departure angle.



--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

10
My transaxle is the lowest part of the setup.
On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 at 2:33 pm, Peter Kolevas <peter.kolevas@gmail.com> wrote:
What’s your clearance ?



On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 at 1:42 pm, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

That is a problem with a lot of engine conversions.

Either the deck lid gets raised or the sump drags along the ground. Even some suby conversions have the sump problem.

My 2.5 ended up with the shortened sump just below the original syncro skid frame. Hence I added an aluminium checker plate skid pan so save the sump.

See photo pre-skid pan and sump cover.

Skot.

On 8/10/2017 2:11 PM, peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

The clearance is 260mm.


I didn't measure it before the old motor came out.

But it looks at least as good also has an improve departure angle.



--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

11
clearance pictures
12
I just checked my clearance (Bathurst race just finished)...

I have 280mm to the sump protection plate and 300mm to the factory skid plate frame.

I would recommend you put some protection in yours - that sump is soo thin!

Cheers,

Skot

On 8/10/2017 4:20 PM, Peter Kolevas peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
My transaxle is the lowest part of the setup.
On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 at 2:33 pm, Peter Kolevas <peter.kolevas@gmail.com> wrote:
What’s your clearance ?



On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 at 1:42 pm, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

That is a problem with a lot of engine conversions.

Either the deck lid gets raised or the sump drags along the ground. Even some suby conversions have the sump problem.

My 2.5 ended up with the shortened sump just below the original syncro skid frame. Hence I added an aluminium checker plate skid pan so save the sump.

See photo pre-skid pan and sump cover.

Skot.

On 8/10/2017 2:11 PM, peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

The clearance is 260mm.


I didn't measure it before the old motor came out.

But it looks at least as good also has an improve departure angle.



--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
13

Looking great Peter. Very neat looking install. Shame on the crown wheel and pinion. It's worth checking the gearing just to be sure with a decoupler. Not a cheap option, but if you have a new crown wheel in the rear, but nice to get new in the front rather than fit an old set in the rear?  Just means if you ever swap them out you need to swap as a set.

Rowan was also looking at the tail shaft. Not sure if he went ahead, but was looking at Hardy Spicer for options locally.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <peter.kolevas@...> wrote :

clearance pictures
14

Hi Peter,


Re: "I think my current situation is:

The rear diff   4.86 (GoWesty Trans)
The front diff   5.43 (original)"

So to accurately deduce whether the drive-train gearing system is functioning either correctly or not ....

Use the following sequence ...

Couple the decoupler while stationary.
Shift gearstick to neutral.
Engage handbrake.
Lift the van on a level surface, safely supported, until all four wheels clear the ground.
Make a chalk mark at exactly 12 o'clock position for each of the front and back tyres on one side of the van.  
Start the motor.
Release handbrake.
Engage G gear, let out the clutch.
Have someone else visually and accurately count the wheel rotations monitoring for same position chalk marks for a period. Meaning you are looking for the chalk marks remaining exactly in the same position relative to each other ... or not.
If the revolutions/chalk marks count and visual remain exactly matched, you are good to go.
If they don't remain matched over the period, you have an unusable setup, except and only when decoupled. 

Note: This test method will work correctly provided your VC is functioning as per factory specs. If the VC has gone or is going passive (toward or at a dead state), then the test can't work.

Good luck.
Cheers.
Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 8 October 2017 11:21 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Bostig installation.
 
 

Thanks.


It's a 2003 Ford focus 2lt motor dual overhead cam.

It's only a small increase in power 70kw to 96kw and 159nm to 183nm (thats when every thing was new)

But i'm looking for reliability.

I have removed to the tailshaft and the vibration is gone.

I was speaking with Bruce in SA about it and I mentioned that I have a GoWesty transmission and he pointed out that the USA diff is a different ring and pinion. I am thinking this could be part of the problem. Even though the front is disconnected via the de-coupler there could still be some passive interaction.

So now I need to work out if I change the front or rear ring and pinion to have them matching.
I think my current situation is:

The rear diff   4.86 (GoWesty Trans)

The front diff   5.43 (original)

Obviously they need to match, my error I could have had the correct one installed when I purchased the gearbox but never even thought about it.

Perhaps I'll swap the the one from my old transaxle into the new one. 

Please chime in with thoughts anyone.

It never stops!



15
What about the spider gears in the diff Ken?

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 9 Oct 2017, at 6:54 pm, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi Peter,


Re: "I think my current situation is:

The rear diff   4.86 (GoWesty Trans)
The front diff   5.43 (original)"

So to accurately deduce whether the drive-train gearing system is functioning either correctly or not ....

Use the following sequence ...

Couple the decoupler while stationary.
Shift gearstick to neutral.
Engage handbrake.
Lift the van on a level surface, safely supported, until all four wheels clear the ground.
Make a chalk mark at exactly 12 o'clock position for each of the front and back tyres on one side of the van.  
Start the motor.
Release handbrake.
Engage G gear, let out the clutch.
Have someone else visually and accurately count the wheel rotations monitoring for same position chalk marks for a period. Meaning you are looking for the chalk marks remaining exactly in the same position relative to each other ... or not.
If the revolutions/chalk marks count and visual remain exactly matched, you are good to go.
If they don't remain matched over the period, you have an unusable setup, except and only when decoupled. 

Note: This test method will work correctly provided your VC is functioning as per factory specs. If the VC has gone or is going passive (toward or at a dead state), then the test can't work.

Good luck.
Cheers.
Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 8 October 2017 11:21 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Bostig installation.
 
 

Thanks.


It's a 2003 Ford focus 2lt motor dual overhead cam.

It's only a small increase in power 70kw to 96kw and 159nm to 183nm (thats when every thing was new)

But i'm looking for reliability.

I have removed to the tailshaft and the vibration is gone.

I was speaking with Bruce in SA about it and I mentioned that I have a GoWesty transmission and he pointed out that the USA diff is a different ring and pinion. I am thinking this could be part of the problem. Even though the front is disconnected via the de-coupler there could still be some passive interaction.

So now I need to work out if I change the front or rear ring and pinion to have them matching.
I think my current situation is:

The rear diff   4.86 (GoWesty Trans)

The front diff   5.43 (original)

Obviously they need to match, my error I could have had the correct one installed when I purchased the gearbox but never even thought about it.

Perhaps I'll swap the the one from my old transaxle into the new one. 

Please chime in with thoughts anyone.

It never stops!



16

Hi Greg,

Peter's asking members for thoughts on his issue below.

I'm sure he'd benefit from your thoughts to.

Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, 9 October 2017 7:18 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Bostig installation.
 
 

What about the spider gears in the diff Ken?

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 9 Oct 2017, at 6:54 pm, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi Peter,


Re: "I think my current situation is:

The rear diff   4.86 (GoWesty Trans)
The front diff   5.43 (original)"

So to accurately deduce whether the drive-train gearing system is functioning either correctly or not ....

Use the following sequence ...

Couple the decoupler while stationary.
Shift gearstick to neutral.
Engage handbrake.
Lift the van on a level surface, safely supported, until all four wheels clear the ground.
Make a chalk mark at exactly 12 o'clock position for each of the front and back tyres on one side of the van.  
Start the motor.
Release handbrake.
Engage G gear, let out the clutch.
Have someone else visually and accurately count the wheel rotations monitoring for same position chalk marks for a period. Meaning you are looking for the chalk marks remaining exactly in the same position relative to each other ... or not.
If the revolutions/chalk marks count and visual remain exactly matched, you are good to go.
If they don't remain matched over the period, you have an unusable setup, except and only when decoupled. 

Note: This test method will work correctly provided your VC is functioning as per factory specs. If the VC has gone or is going passive (toward or at a dead state), then the test can't work.

Good luck.
Cheers.
Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 8 October 2017 11:21 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Bostig installation.
 
 

Thanks.


It's a 2003 Ford focus 2lt motor dual overhead cam.

It's only a small increase in power 70kw to 96kw and 159nm to 183nm (thats when every thing was new)

But i'm looking for reliability.

I have removed to the tailshaft and the vibration is gone.

I was speaking with Bruce in SA about it and I mentioned that I have a GoWesty transmission and he pointed out that the USA diff is a different ring and pinion. I am thinking this could be part of the problem. Even though the front is disconnected via the de-coupler there could still be some passive interaction.

So now I need to work out if I change the front or rear ring and pinion to have them matching.
I think my current situation is:

The rear diff   4.86 (GoWesty Trans)

The front diff   5.43 (original)

Obviously they need to match, my error I could have had the correct one installed when I purchased the gearbox but never even thought about it.

Perhaps I'll swap the the one from my old transaxle into the new one. 

Please chime in with thoughts anyone.

It never stops!



17
Hi ken,

Thanks for the suggestion.

I'm off to NZ for 3 weeks when I get back I will do as you've suggested and take onboard all other input.

Cheers

Ptere
18
Hi Peter and all,
It's really not complicated.
Select a ratio so that both transaxle and front diff match.
1. Change transaxle diff to match the front diff ie. 5.43 or
2. Change the front diff to match the transaxle diff ie. 4.86
I'd be choosing the latter. 

All Australian Syncros have the 6P or 6PA transaxle with 38:7 R&P, 5.42857
Most North American Syncros have the AAK or AAN transaxle with 34:7 R&P, 4.587

Bruce.
Adelaide
Selling my '89 Trakka Syncro 'Gold Pack'. $40k ONO.




19
Peter, unless you have front and rear locking differentials and engage both Kens idea will not work. If you did not have discussions with GoWesty about final drive ratios I would find it hard to believe they would be proactive enough to send you the right diff based on your address. An email would be a better way to confirm this. It is pot luck wether you get a new ring and pinion on a reco. What you will have is new bearings and a properly set up ring and pinion. This takes time, know how and special tools. It is not a simple swap situation. A visit to Rudi with both boxes would be best. Yes you could go the other way and source / modify to a high ratio (locking?) front diff but this will be a step backwards in off-road terms. Greg

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 10 Oct 2017, at 6:50 am, peter.kolevas@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi ken,


Thanks for the suggestion.

I'm off to NZ for 3 weeks when I get back I will do as you've suggested and take onboard all other input.

Cheers

Ptere

20
Hi Peter,

I think I have a spare front 4.86 crown wheel and pinion if you want  to go that way but I would have to get it out and check, let me know if you are interested,

Neil.


From: "bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 10 October 2017, 10:16
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Bostig installation.

 
Hi Peter and all,
It's really not complicated.
Select a ratio so that both transaxle and front diff match.
1. Change transaxle diff to match the front diff ie. 5.43 or
2. Change the front diff to match the transaxle diff ie. 4.86
I'd be choosing the latter. 

All Australian Syncros have the 6P or 6PA transaxle with 38:7 R&P, 5.42857
Most North American Syncros have the AAK or AAN transaxle with 34:7 R&P, 4.587

Bruce.
Adelaide
Selling my '89 Trakka Syncro 'Gold Pack'. $40k ONO.