I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and promised logivity of the result.
Roger
Melbourne not on Sea
Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@yahoo.com pedrokrusherSat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)Hi syncronuts Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the salt belt: http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis ation-techniques /lead-loading Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the horizontal middle side rib do... Pedro 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox |
Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@...> wrote:
>
> I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and promised logivity of the result.
> Roger
> Melbourne not on Sea
> Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
> Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@... pedrokrusher
> Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
>
> Hi syncronuts
>
> Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the salt belt:
>
> http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> Pedro
> 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
> 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
Benny,
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join seams?
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@...> wrote:
>
> I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and promised logivity of the result.
> Roger
> Melbourne not on Sea
> Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
> Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@... pedrokrusher
> Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
>
> Hi syncronuts
>
> Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the salt belt:
>
> http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> Pedro
> 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
> 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join seams?Cheers.Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@...
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and promised logivity of the result.
>
> > Roger
>
> > Melbourne not on Sea
>
> > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
>
> > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
>
> > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Hi syncronuts
>
> >
>
> > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the salt belt:
>
> >
>
> > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> >
>
> > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> >
>
> > Pedro
>
> > 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
>
> > 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
> >
>
Benny,
In my view, a prerequisite to a syncro full body prep and respray would be first establishing my confidence that the body panel shop has the knowledge, experience and long established technique for a longish term solution for treating AND sealing panel seams, be they rusted or not. I see no point in proceeding down this path if this cannot be established. A case of needing "the weakest link in the chain", the panel seams, being properly addressed or else forget it, leave the existing paintwork as is and deal with rust/paint as best one can. I mean it's a lot of money invested in a new paint job, only to see seam failure again on the first trip away.
So for panel seams to be properly addressed/treated/sealed/painted as opposed to overlooked or contemptuous scant regard, if lead loading is a solution but unavailable and bog is available but the wrong solution, is there in the panel beating/spray painting industry an established technique that satisfactorily deals with panel seam seal failure due most likely to body panel/structural flexing? In other words, if the panel seams succumb to flex and so the seam seal duly fails, is there a known technique that treats and reseals the seams, allows the seam to flex thereafter AND that auto paints adhere to and don't crack?
I'm here to learn but I suspect I know your answer but please prove me wrong. TIA
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:00:54 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:00:54 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join seams?Cheers.Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@...
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and promised logivity of the result.
>
> > Roger
>
> > Melbourne not on Sea
>
> > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
>
> > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
>
> > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Hi syncronuts
>
> >
>
> > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the salt belt:
>
> >
>
> > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> >
>
> > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> >
>
> > Pedro
>
> > 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
>
> > 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
> >
>
bog is only a filler, it will not flex,the join
between panels will have movement in it via temperature changes and body
stress.
i find that if one gets a good carabena body wax,
put towel on finger dip in wax and then rub into joint helps to protect, the
trouble with rust is that it eats its way out to the surface so the time you see
it is to late
you really need to talk to a company that does rust
protection to moter vehicles
bob dale
----- Original Message -----From: BenSent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 12:00 AMSubject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join seams?Cheers.Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@...
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and promised logivity of the result.
>
> > Roger
>
> > Melbourne not on Sea
>
> > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
>
> > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
>
> > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Hi syncronuts
>
> >
>
> > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the salt belt:
>
> >
>
> > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> >
>
> > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> >
>
> > Pedro
>
> > 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
>
> > 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
> >
>
|
Ken,
Don't you have the workshop manual for body repairs?
Phill
Don't you have the workshop manual for body repairs?
Phill
> Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,In my view, a prerequisite to a syncro full body prep and respray
> would be first establishing my confidence that the body panel shop has
> the knowledge, experience and long established technique for a longish
> term solution for treating AND sealing panel seams, be they rusted or
> not. I see no point in proceeding down this path if this cannot be
> established. A case of needing "the weakest link in the chain", the
> panel seams, being properly addressed or else forget it, leave the
> existing paintwork as is and deal with rust/paint as best one can. I
> mean it's a lot of money invested in a new paint job, only to see seam
> failure again on the first trip away.
> So for panel seams to be properly addressed/treated/sealed/painted as
> opposed to overlooked or contemptuous scant regard, if lead loading is a
> solution but unavailable and bog is available but the wrong solution, is
> there in the panel beating/spray painting industry an established
> technique that satisfactorily deals with panel seam seal failure due
> most likely to body panel/structural flexing? In other words, if the
> panel seams succumb to flex and so the seam seal duly fails, is there a
> known technique that treats and reseals the seams, allows the seam to
> flex thereafter AND that auto paints adhere to and don't crack?
> I'm here to learn but I suspect I know your answer but please prove me
> wrong. TIA
> Cheers.Ken
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:00:54 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
>
> Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
>
> If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to
> accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join
> seams?Cheers.Ken
>
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: bencroft96@...
>
> > Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
>
> > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters
> wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant
> to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading
> done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and
> promised logivity of the result.
>
> >
>
> > > Roger
>
> >
>
> > > Melbourne not on Sea
>
> >
>
> > > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
>
> >
>
> > > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
>
> >
>
> > > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Hi syncronuts
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I
> believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the
> salt belt:
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis
> ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff
> like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the
> horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Pedro
>
> >
>
> > > 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
>
> >
>
> > > 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Phill,
Not sure offhand about that, I'd have to look.
It's academic anyway, as I said earlier on this thread, I'm here to learn, not presently to do, other than perhaps re fish oiling.
Just love the fragrance of fish oil eh!
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: plander@optusnet.com.au
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 17:16:18 +1100
Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: plander@optusnet.com.au
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 17:16:18 +1100
Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Ken,
Don't you have the workshop manual for body repairs?
Phill
Don't you have the workshop manual for body repairs?
Phill
> Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,In my view, a prerequisite to a syncro full body prep and respray
> would be first establishing my confidence that the body panel shop has
> the knowledge, experience and long established technique for a longish
> term solution for treating AND sealing panel seams, be they rusted or
> not. I see no point in proceeding down this path if this cannot be
> established. A case of needing "the weakest link in the chain", the
> panel seams, being properly addressed or else forget it, leave the
> existing paintwork as is and deal with rust/paint as best one can. I
> mean it's a lot of money invested in a new paint job, only to see seam
> failure again on the first trip away.
> So for panel seams to be properly addressed/treated/sealed/painted as
> opposed to overlooked or contemptuous scant regard, if lead loading is a
> solution but unavailable and bog is available but the wrong solution, is
> there in the panel beating/spray painting industry an established
> technique that satisfactorily deals with panel seam seal failure due
> most likely to body panel/structural flexing? In other words, if the
> panel seams succumb to flex and so the seam seal duly fails, is there a
> known technique that treats and reseals the seams, allows the seam to
> flex thereafter AND that auto paints adhere to and don't crack?
> I'm here to learn but I suspect I know your answer but please prove me
> wrong. TIA
> Cheers.Ken
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:00:54 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
>
> Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
>
> If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to
> accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join
> seams?Cheers.Ken
>
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: bencroft96@...
>
> > Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
>
> > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters
> wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant
> to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading
> done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and
> promised logivity of the result.
>
> >
>
> > > Roger
>
> >
>
> > > Melbourne not on Sea
>
> >
>
> > > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
>
> >
>
> > > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
>
> >
>
> > > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Hi syncronuts
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I
> believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the
> salt belt:
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis
> ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff
> like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the
> horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Pedro
>
> >
>
> > > 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
>
> >
>
> > > 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Just a warning about fish oil - the wafting aroma of dead fish attracts all sorts of unpleasant visitors when camped in the bush.
After fish-oiling my old T2 camper I went camping at Finch Hatton National Park. One night I introduced some swedish backpackers to the quaint ozzie custom of guzzling Bundy rum and telling outrageous stories around the campfire.
When I went to bed I woke up with my skin crawling. I turned on the light, examined my hide, but couldn't see a thing. I put it down to a case of the "horrors," swore off the grog, and eventually fell into a coma.
The next night I went to bed stone cold sober. Same thing happened, but this time it was worse, because I didn't have an anaesthetic. My eyes could focus more clearly now, and with the aid of a magnifying glass I could see swarms of tiny ants crawling all over me. All surfaces of the van looked like they were moving. I had been invaded. I didn't sleep a wink.
I headed out of the rainforest for the coast, camped near the beach, and totally stripped out the camper furniture and all the upholstery. It was a big job. I found three ant colonies, complete with queen ants; one under the driver's seat, one in the driver's door, and the third under the plywood floor in the back.
It cost me a fortune for a box of of "Probe" insecticide, with the flexible nozzle to penetrate all the nooks and crannies in a T2.
The moral of the story is - don't stop drinking Bundy Rum. It's cheaper than a carton of Probe.
Cheers, Roger [Beetle] Bayley.
After fish-oiling my old T2 camper I went camping at Finch Hatton National Park. One night I introduced some swedish backpackers to the quaint ozzie custom of guzzling Bundy rum and telling outrageous stories around the campfire.
When I went to bed I woke up with my skin crawling. I turned on the light, examined my hide, but couldn't see a thing. I put it down to a case of the "horrors," swore off the grog, and eventually fell into a coma.
The next night I went to bed stone cold sober. Same thing happened, but this time it was worse, because I didn't have an anaesthetic. My eyes could focus more clearly now, and with the aid of a magnifying glass I could see swarms of tiny ants crawling all over me. All surfaces of the van looked like they were moving. I had been invaded. I didn't sleep a wink.
I headed out of the rainforest for the coast, camped near the beach, and totally stripped out the camper furniture and all the upholstery. It was a big job. I found three ant colonies, complete with queen ants; one under the driver's seat, one in the driver's door, and the third under the plywood floor in the back.
It cost me a fortune for a box of of "Probe" insecticide, with the flexible nozzle to penetrate all the nooks and crannies in a T2.
The moral of the story is - don't stop drinking Bundy Rum. It's cheaper than a carton of Probe.
Cheers, Roger [Beetle] Bayley.
Greg,
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: gregespo73@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 19:29:34 -0800
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Yeah well there's long been a school of thought that syncro seam rust starts from the inside of the seam and works to the outside. Probably right too. So when eyeballing closely a rusted seam from the outside and with a thought of remedying it properly, I must say I have serious doubts it is even remotely possible without first dismantling the panels, and what average punter is going to do that?
Yep, Sika products look pretty good eh, with the proviso that rusted seams from without to within are properly treated first. The hard bit.
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: gregespo73@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 19:29:34 -0800
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
|
What about the Swedish backpackers?
----- Original Message -----From: Gullyraker@aol.comSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 12:03 AMSubject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.Just a warning about fish oil - the wafting aroma of dead fish attracts all sorts of unpleasant visitors when camped in the bush.
After fish-oiling my old T2 camper I went camping at Finch Hatton National Park. One night I introduced some swedish backpackers to the quaint ozzie custom of guzzling Bundy rum and telling outrageous stories around the campfire.
When I went to bed I woke up with my skin crawling. I turned on the light, examined my hide, but couldn't see a thing. I put it down to a case of the "horrors," swore off the grog, and eventually fell into a coma.
The next night I went to bed stone cold sober. Same thing happened, but this time it was worse, because I didn't have an anaesthetic. My eyes could focus more clearly now, and with the aid of a magnifying glass I could see swarms of tiny ants crawling all over me. All surfaces of the van looked like they were moving. I had been invaded. I didn't sleep a wink.
I headed out of the rainforest for the coast, camped near the beach, and totally stripped out the camper furniture and all the upholstery. It was a big job. I found three ant colonies, complete with queen ants; one under the driver's seat, one in the driver's door, and the third under the plywood floor in the back.
It cost me a fortune for a box of of "Probe" insecticide, with the flexible nozzle to penetrate all the nooks and crannies in a T2.
The moral of the story is - don't stop drinking Bundy Rum. It's cheaper than a carton of Probe.
Cheers, Roger [Beetle] Bayley.
Ken,
I saw a bloke from the Gold Coast area who just works on
kombis and restores them doing a T3 2wd recently (Das Autohaus). He had a
special tool that removed the seem sealer (scraped it out) then he sandblasted
the seam before repainting in there then using new seam sealer.
At least the area had paint protection.
These areas are a very common problem and I have even seen a
few T4's starting to get seam rash.
Skot
----- Original Message -----From: Ken GarrattSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 12:52 AMSubject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.Greg,
Yeah well there's long been a school of thought that syncro seam rust starts from the inside of the seam and works to the outside. Probably right too. So when eyeballing closely a rusted seam from the outside and with a thought of remedying it properly, I must say I have serious doubts it is even remotely possible without first dismantling the panels, and what average punter is going to do that?Yep, Sika products look pretty good eh, with the proviso that rusted seams from without to within are properly treated first. The hard bit.Cheers.Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: gregespo73@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 19:29:34 -0800
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Ken, Fusor and I think sika make the correct products for seam filling. Remember these vans are 20yrs old, the seam filler in our vans has shrunk and gone hard. No mailable product will stay the same forever.
--- On Tue, 8/3/11, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
From: Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
To: "Syncro _T3_Australia forum" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Tuesday, 8 March, 2011, 9:49 AM
Benny,In my view, a prerequisite to a syncro full body prep and respray would be first establishing my confidence that the body panel shop has the knowledge, experience and long established technique for a longish term solution for treating AND sealing panel seams, be they rusted or not. I see no point in proceeding down this path if this cannot be established. A case of needing "the weakest link in the chain", the panel seams, being properly addressed or else forget it, leave the existing paintwork as is and deal with rust/paint as best one can. I mean it's a lot of money invested in a new paint job, only to see seam failure again on the first trip away.So for panel seams to be properly addressed/treated/sealed/painted as opposed to overlooked or contemptuous scant regard, if lead loading is a solution but unavailable and bog is available but the wrong solution, is there in the panel beating/spray painting industry an established technique that satisfactorily deals with panel seam seal failure due most likely to body panel/structural flexing? In other words, if the panel seams succumb to flex and so the seam seal duly fails, is there a known technique that treats and reseals the seams, allows the seam to flex thereafter AND that auto paints adhere to and don't crack?I'm here to learn but I suspect I know your answer but please prove me wrong. TIACheers.Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:00:54 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join seams?Cheers.Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@...
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and promised logivity of the result.
>
> > Roger
>
> > Melbourne not on Sea
>
> > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
>
> > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
>
> > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Hi syncronuts
>
> >
>
> > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the salt belt:
>
> >
>
> > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> >
>
> > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> >
>
> > Pedro
>
> > 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
>
> > 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
> >
>
They didn't like the smell. Maybe I should have tried Finns ...
Hi Skot,
In my experience, the procedure you describe is a 'bandaid' repair. Unless the seams are cleaned-up and resealed from the backside, the seam rust will return very quickly. You would almost be better off sealing both sides without making any repairs than repairing only on one side without touching the source of corrosion. The freshly sandblasted metal would just provide fertile ground for the tinworm to cultivate.
Cheers,
BenT
sent from my electronic leash
sent from my electronic leash
On Mar 8, 2011, at 12:34 PM, "Mr Scott Pitcher" <spbconsulting@bigpond.com> wrote:
Ken,I saw a bloke from the Gold Coast area who just works on kombis and restores them doing a T3 2wd recently (Das Autohaus). He had a special tool that removed the seem sealer (scraped it out) then he sandblasted the seam before repainting in there then using new seam sealer.At least the area had paint protection.These areas are a very common problem and I have even seen a few T4's starting to get seam rash.Skot----- Original Message -----From: Ken GarrattSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 12:52 AMSubject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.Greg,
Yeah well there's long been a school of thought that syncro seam rust starts from the inside of the seam and works to the outside. Probably right too. So when eyeballing closely a rusted seam from the outside and with a thought of remedying it properly, I must say I have serious doubts it is even remotely possible without first dismantling the panels, and what average punter is going to do that?Yep, Sika products look pretty good eh, with the proviso that rusted seams from without to within are properly treated first. The hard bit.Cheers.Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: gregespo73@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 19:29:34 -0800
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Ken, Fusor and I think sika make the correct products for seam filling. Remember these vans are 20yrs old, the seam filler in our vans has shrunk and gone hard. No mailable product will stay the same forever.
--- On Tue, 8/3/11, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
From: Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
To: "Syncro _T3_Australia forum" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Tuesday, 8 March, 2011, 9:49 AM
Benny,In my view, a prerequisite to a syncro full body prep and respray would be first establishing my confidence that the body panel shop has the knowledge, experience and long established technique for a longish term solution for treating AND sealing panel seams, be they rusted or not. I see no point in proceeding down this path if this cannot be established. A case of needing "the weakest link in the chain", the panel seams, being properly addressed or else forget it, leave the existing paintwork as is and deal with rust/paint as best one can. I mean it's a lot of money invested in a new paint job, only to see seam failure again on the first trip away.So for panel seams to be properly addressed/treated/sealed/painted as opposed to overlooked or contemptuous scant regard, if lead loading is a solution but unavailable and bog is available but the wrong solution, is there in the panel beating/spray painting industry an established technique that satisfactorily deals with panel seam seal failure due most likely to body panel/structural flexing? In other words, if the panel seams succumb to flex and so the seam seal duly fails, is there a known technique that treats and reseals the seams, allows the seam to flex thereafter AND that auto paints adhere to and don't crack?I'm here to learn but I suspect I know your answer but please prove me wrong. TIACheers.Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:00:54 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join seams?Cheers.Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@...
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and promised logivity of the result.
>
> > Roger
>
> > Melbourne not on Sea
>
> > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
>
> > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
>
> > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Hi syncronuts
>
> >
>
> > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the salt belt:
>
> >
>
> > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> >
>
> > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> >
>
> > Pedro
>
> > 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
>
> > 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
> >
>
Ben,
Its very difficult to get to the backside of a seam. His tool
was great for cleaning out the muck and where rust appeared to creep in he
did heat and stretch the seam apart slightly and clean all the muck out. He
threw lots of thinned paint in there (several coats) so that would slow the rash
down.
I have had the lower nose / front panel repaired 3 times on my
syncro with the seam lifted up and sandblasted then reshaped and welded again
only to have it happen again further along the seam.
That is the worst spot in my opinion as it is horizontal and
water likes to sit in there.
----- Original Message -----From: BenT SyncroSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:42 AMSubject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Hi Skot,In my experience, the procedure you describe is a 'bandaid' repair. Unless the seams are cleaned-up and resealed from the backside, the seam rust will return very quickly. You would almost be better off sealing both sides without making any repairs than repairing only on one side without touching the source of corrosion. The freshly sandblasted metal would just provide fertile ground for the tinworm to cultivate.Cheers,BenT
sent from my electronic leashKen,I saw a bloke from the Gold Coast area who just works on kombis and restores them doing a T3 2wd recently (Das Autohaus). He had a special tool that removed the seem sealer (scraped it out) then he sandblasted the seam before repainting in there then using new seam sealer.At least the area had paint protection.These areas are a very common problem and I have even seen a few T4's starting to get seam rash.Skot----- Original Message -----From: Ken GarrattSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 12:52 AMSubject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.Greg,
Yeah well there's long been a school of thought that syncro seam rust starts from the inside of the seam and works to the outside. Probably right too. So when eyeballing closely a rusted seam from the outside and with a thought of remedying it properly, I must say I have serious doubts it is even remotely possible without first dismantling the panels, and what average punter is going to do that?Yep, Sika products look pretty good eh, with the proviso that rusted seams from without to within are properly treated first. The hard bit.Cheers.Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: gregespo73@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 19:29:34 -0800
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Ken, Fusor and I think sika make the correct products for seam filling. Remember these vans are 20yrs old, the seam filler in our vans has shrunk and gone hard. No mailable product will stay the same forever.
--- On Tue, 8/3/11, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
From: Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
To: "Syncro _T3_Australia forum" <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Tuesday, 8 March, 2011, 9:49 AM
Benny,In my view, a prerequisite to a syncro full body prep and respray would be first establishing my confidence that the body panel shop has the knowledge, experience and long established technique for a longish term solution for treating AND sealing panel seams, be they rusted or not. I see no point in proceeding down this path if this cannot be established. A case of needing "the weakest link in the chain", the panel seams, being properly addressed or else forget it, leave the existing paintwork as is and deal with rust/paint as best one can. I mean it's a lot of money invested in a new paint job, only to see seam failure again on the first trip away.So for panel seams to be properly addressed/treated/sealed/painted as opposed to overlooked or contemptuous scant regard, if lead loading is a solution but unavailable and bog is available but the wrong solution, is there in the panel beating/spray painting industry an established technique that satisfactorily deals with panel seam seal failure due most likely to body panel/structural flexing? In other words, if the panel seams succumb to flex and so the seam seal duly fails, is there a known technique that treats and reseals the seams, allows the seam to flex thereafter AND that auto paints adhere to and don't crack?I'm here to learn but I suspect I know your answer but please prove me wrong. TIACheers.Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:00:54 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join seams?Cheers.Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@...
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and promised logivity of the result.
>
> > Roger
>
> > Melbourne not on Sea
>
> > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
>
> > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
>
> > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Hi syncronuts
>
> >
>
> > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the salt belt:
>
> >
>
> > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> >
>
> > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> >
>
> > Pedro
>
> > 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
>
> > 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
>
> >
>
It all sounds bit fishy.
----- Original Message -----From: Gullyraker@aol.comSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:37 AMSubject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.They didn't like the smell. Maybe I should have tried Finns ...
there is supposed to be a deoderized version
available
bob dale
----- Original Message -----From: Ken GarrattSent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 11:33 PMSubject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.Phill,
Not sure offhand about that, I'd have to look.It's academic anyway, as I said earlier on this thread, I'm here to learn, not presently to do, other than perhaps re fish oiling.Just love the fragrance of fish oil eh!Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: plander@optusnet.com.au
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 17:16:18 +1100
Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Ken,
Don't you have the workshop manual for body repairs?
Phill
> Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,In my view, a prerequisite to a syncro full body prep and respray
> would be first establishing my confidence that the body panel shop has
> the knowledge, experience and long established technique for a longish
> term solution for treating AND sealing panel seams, be they rusted or
> not. I see no point in proceeding down this path if this cannot be
> established. A case of needing "the weakest link in the chain", the
> panel seams, being properly addressed or else forget it, leave the
> existing paintwork as is and deal with rust/paint as best one can. I
> mean it's a lot of money invested in a new paint job, only to see seam
> failure again on the first trip away.
> So for panel seams to be properly addressed/treated/sealed/painted as
> opposed to overlooked or contemptuous scant regard, if lead loading is a
> solution but unavailable and bog is available but the wrong solution, is
> there in the panel beating/spray painting industry an established
> technique that satisfactorily deals with panel seam seal failure due
> most likely to body panel/structural flexing? In other words, if the
> panel seams succumb to flex and so the seam seal duly fails, is there a
> known technique that treats and reseals the seams, allows the seam to
> flex thereafter AND that auto paints adhere to and don't crack?
> I'm here to learn but I suspect I know your answer but please prove me
> wrong. TIA
> Cheers.Ken
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:00:54 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
>
> Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
>
> If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to
> accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join
> seams?Cheers.Ken
>
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: bencroft96@...
>
> > Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
>
> > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters
> wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant
> to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading
> done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and
> promised logivity of the result.
>
> >
>
> > > Roger
>
> >
>
> > > Melbourne not on Sea
>
> >
>
> > > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
>
> >
>
> > > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
>
> >
>
> > > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Hi syncronuts
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I
> believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the
> salt belt:
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis
> ation-techniques /lead-loading
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff
> like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the
> horizontal middle side rib do...
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
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> > > Pedro
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Bob,
What, and miss out on real life stories like Rogers? No way.
Deodorised? ... forget it. One'd have to be limp wristed, surely.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: rcdale@bigpond.com
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 08:07:32 +1100
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
From: rcdale@bigpond.com
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 08:07:32 +1100
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
there is supposed to be a deoderized version
available
bob dale
----- Original Message -----From: Ken GarrattSent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 11:33 PMSubject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.Phill,Not sure offhand about that, I'd have to look.It's academic anyway, as I said earlier on this thread, I'm here to learn, not presently to do, other than perhaps re fish oiling.Just love the fragrance of fish oil eh!Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: plander@optusnet.com.au
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 17:16:18 +1100
Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Ken,
Don't you have the workshop manual for body repairs?
Phill
> Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Benny,In my view, a prerequisite to a syncro full body prep and respray
> would be first establishing my confidence that the body panel shop has
> the knowledge, experience and long established technique for a longish
> term solution for treating AND sealing panel seams, be they rusted or
> not. I see no point in proceeding down this path if this cannot be
> established. A case of needing "the weakest link in the chain", the
> panel seams, being properly addressed or else forget it, leave the
> existing paintwork as is and deal with rust/paint as best one can. I
> mean it's a lot of money invested in a new paint job, only to see seam
> failure again on the first trip away.
> So for panel seams to be properly addressed/treated/sealed/painted as
> opposed to overlooked or contemptuous scant regard, if lead loading is a
> solution but unavailable and bog is available but the wrong solution, is
> there in the panel beating/spray painting industry an established
> technique that satisfactorily deals with panel seam seal failure due
> most likely to body panel/structural flexing? In other words, if the
> panel seams succumb to flex and so the seam seal duly fails, is there a
> known technique that treats and reseals the seams, allows the seam to
> flex thereafter AND that auto paints adhere to and don't crack?
> I'm here to learn but I suspect I know your answer but please prove me
> wrong. TIA
> Cheers.Ken
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bencroft96@yahoo.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:00:54 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
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> Kenny,I wasnt advocating the use of nicky in seams.
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> Bog is widely used as a filler in the repair of vehicles.
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> If used properly after minor rust repair it will be fine..
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>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...>
> wrote:
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> >
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> > Benny,Do typical bog properties include stretching/flexing ability to
> accommodate usual stresses and strains in syncro body panel join
> seams?Cheers.Ken
>
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: bencroft96@...
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> > Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 00:36:41 +0000
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> > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
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> > Lead wiping is a skill that most younger gen panel beaters
> wouldnt of even seen.Just bog it up,mate.
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> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@>
> wrote:
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> > > I found the attached interesting and informative for those reluctant
> to replace all metal parts with stainless steel ! I've seen lead loading
> done by a skilled tradesman and was most impressed with the quality and
> promised logivity of the result.
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> > > Roger
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> > > Melbourne not on Sea
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> > > Seam rust prevention?: lead loading...
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> > > Posted by: "Pedro" pedrokrusher@ pedrokrusher
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> > > Sat Mar 5, 2011 2:11 pm (PST)
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> > > Hi syncronuts
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> > > Here is a web site describing a lead loading technique that I
> believe could be a usefull way to stop/limit the seam rust for us on the
> salt belt:
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> > > http://www.thehotwo rks.com/restorat ion-and-customis
> ation-techniques /lead-loading
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> > > Check out the custom job on the doublecab. Some pretty neat stuff
> like the custom metal bumpers. Don't like what they did with the
> horizontal middle side rib do...
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> > > Pedro
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> > > 1991 vanagon westfalia conversion TDI, Silverfox
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> > > 1989 vanagon syncro passenger, Syncrofox
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Roger,
I can readily accept you aren't one to be wimping out on the deodorised version.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Gullyraker@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 08:03:57 -0500
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Gullyraker@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 08:03:57 -0500
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Dealing with rust.
Just a warning about fish oil - the wafting aroma of dead fish attracts all sorts of unpleasant visitors when camped in the bush.
After fish-oiling my old T2 camper I went camping at Finch Hatton National Park. One night I introduced some swedish backpackers to the quaint ozzie custom of guzzling Bundy rum and telling outrageous stories around the campfire.
When I went to bed I woke up with my skin crawling. I turned on the light, examined my hide, but couldn't see a thing. I put it down to a case of the "horrors," swore off the grog, and eventually fell into a coma.
The next night I went to bed stone cold sober. Same thing happened, but this time it was worse, because I didn't have an anaesthetic. My eyes could focus more clearly now, and with the aid of a magnifying glass I could see swarms of tiny ants crawling all over me. All surfaces of the van looked like they were moving. I had been invaded. I didn't sleep a wink.
I headed out of the rainforest for the coast, camped near the beach, and totally stripped out the camper furniture and all the upholstery. It was a big job. I found three ant colonies, complete with queen ants; one under the driver's seat, one in the driver's door, and the third under the plywood floor in the back.
It cost me a fortune for a box of of "Probe" insecticide, with the flexible nozzle to penetrate all the nooks and crannies in a T2.
The moral of the story is - don't stop drinking Bundy Rum. It's cheaper than a carton of Probe.
Cheers, Roger [Beetle] Bayley.
After fish-oiling my old T2 camper I went camping at Finch Hatton National Park. One night I introduced some swedish backpackers to the quaint ozzie custom of guzzling Bundy rum and telling outrageous stories around the campfire.
When I went to bed I woke up with my skin crawling. I turned on the light, examined my hide, but couldn't see a thing. I put it down to a case of the "horrors," swore off the grog, and eventually fell into a coma.
The next night I went to bed stone cold sober. Same thing happened, but this time it was worse, because I didn't have an anaesthetic. My eyes could focus more clearly now, and with the aid of a magnifying glass I could see swarms of tiny ants crawling all over me. All surfaces of the van looked like they were moving. I had been invaded. I didn't sleep a wink.
I headed out of the rainforest for the coast, camped near the beach, and totally stripped out the camper furniture and all the upholstery. It was a big job. I found three ant colonies, complete with queen ants; one under the driver's seat, one in the driver's door, and the third under the plywood floor in the back.
It cost me a fortune for a box of of "Probe" insecticide, with the flexible nozzle to penetrate all the nooks and crannies in a T2.
The moral of the story is - don't stop drinking Bundy Rum. It's cheaper than a carton of Probe.
Cheers, Roger [Beetle] Bayley.