Driving Lights

81
me too.
never heard of such a thing.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Dale
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Solenoid/Starter Problem

 

ok what is a r pin
regards
bob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2011 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Solenoid/Starter Problem

 

  About that pesky roll pin - save yourself a lot of grief by replacing it with an R pin.

It saves having to attack fragile components with a hammer and pin punch, as the R pin is easily removed and installed by hand.

  As a bonus, it doubles as a handle if your diff-lock shaft is sticky.

In the event of vacuum failure you can use it to operate the diff-lock manually, and you could probably use it in an emergency to tie the shaft into the 'on' or 'off' position.

  Mine has been in place for about five years now, without any problems.


                                                                               Roger [Beetle].



82
The rubber tube protective piece (sleeve) I'm referring to is an entirely separate and independent item to the actuator assembly. It's slipped onto the actuator shaft prior to the actuator being fitted and the roll pin inserted. The acid test is, if you can actually see the length of the actuator shaft when the actuator is in place (may need a mirror to eyeball it), then the part I'm referring to is missing, most likely discarded by your friendly mechanic or that of a previous owner. In other words, an actuator ex factory would have had this part installed. If it's now missing, someones left it off.

Ken



To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Gullyraker@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 02:36:03 -0400
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Solenoid/Starter Problem

 
Not so. My rubber bellows is in situ. I fitted a brand new actuator at the time because they were on special at one of the U.S. vendors. I carry the old one as a spare.

  My shaft was seized when I first purchased the vehicle - which is why I did the job at the time. Since then I haven't had a problem because I use it regularly.

  I seem to recall fitting some additional weather-proofing at the time, because of the proximity of the CV joint that could sling mud over the mechanism.

  I'll have to crawl under the van to refresh my failing memory.

  That's if I can remember what I went outside for in the first place.

                                                                                                 Roger Beetle.


83
bless u les    bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Harris
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2011 4:50 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Solenoid/Starter Problem

 

Found it!!

34.24/25

Les

84
Yes and directly under the actuator removal "Work Sequence" diagram #34-678, it states ....

"_push protective casing back and drive out pin"

That's the separate part (perhaps missing for some) that I'm talking about.

Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: leslieharris@optusnet.com.au
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 16:50:49 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Solenoid/Starter Problem

 

Found it!!

34.24/25

Les

 


85
Ken - after re-reading your post I went searching for the elusive rubber sleeve which I never knew existed. Sure enough, it is missing from my car.

  This explains what I thought to be an oversight in the design. I have fitted a large diameter plastic hose around the actuator shaft on my decoupler to address this problem - and yes, you are correct, there is no room for an "R" pin with this sleeve in place.

  On the diff-lock actuator shaft I apply silver grease and wipe off and replace it after playing in the sand or slush.

  I have searched EKTA and cannot find the sleeve you describe.

  It would be a useful piece of kit.

  Does anyone have a part number for it?

  Now I'm thinking of hunting for something similar that can be adapted to fit while still retaining the useful "R" pin.

  After experiencing vacuum failures in the past I like the idea of manual control to get me out of trouble.

  Even though I have replaced the vacuum hoses and actuators they can still let you down as they are exposed to accidental damage.

  Sounds like another project to add to the list.
                                                                         Roger Beetle.
 

86
Roger,
ETKA is not infallible. No doubt there are more instances, an example being the incorrect listing and/or missing listing (depends upon how you interpret it) of the correct accelerator cable in the syncro section is a case in point. I agree also, this protective tube is missing from ETKA schematic and part list. A real shame then that someone at some time had tossed it over his shoulder, but no ETKA info to identify it so it can be replaced.

The reason mechanics lose them over their shoulder is because keeping it fitted in place makes the removal/reinstall of the roll pin a whole lot harder. Add that issue to the fact that you are working in a difficult and confined space in this process, you also can hardly see what you're doing to line anything up. But unless you work with great care and precision, the combination of all these angst issues come together and this is why the actuator shaft often gets sheared off at the roll pin position while doing a roll pin install. For this procedure, people must "hasten slowly and with due diligence", or else the inevitable will occur. Hence the steady sale of new actuators. In other words, careless work reinstalling roll pins adds an additional $100 to the job ... have to buy yet another actuator.

Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Gullyraker@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 09:31:31 -0400
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Solenoid/Starter Problem

 
Ken - after re-reading your post I went searching for the elusive rubber sleeve which I never knew existed. Sure enough, it is missing from my car.

  This explains what I thought to be an oversight in the design. I have fitted a large diameter plastic hose around the actuator shaft on my decoupler to address this problem - and yes, you are correct, there is no room for an "R" pin with this sleeve in place.

  On the diff-lock actuator shaft I apply silver grease and wipe off and replace it after playing in the sand or slush.

  I have searched EKTA and cannot find the sleeve you describe.

  It would be a useful piece of kit.

  Does anyone have a part number for it?

  Now I'm thinking of hunting for something similar that can be adapted to fit while still retaining the useful "R" pin.

  After experiencing vacuum failures in the past I like the idea of manual control to get me out of trouble.

  Even though I have replaced the vacuum hoses and actuators they can still let you down as they are exposed to accidental damage.

  Sounds like another project to add to the list.
                                                                         Roger Beetle.
 


87
I use 19mm heater hose. I can't remember the length. If you measure the distance between the actuator and bracket then add about 3mm you will get some "pinch" when it is installed. Lube the shaft before fitting and I also put rubber grease on the ends of the rubber for a good seal. I have been doing this for years with good results. When I resently bought a decoupler from Florian I noticed he does the same thing. I also use the genuine roll pin, last time I bought them they were under a dollar each, so I bought five. Greg E

From: "Gullyraker@aol.com" <Gullyraker@aol.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 2 September 2011 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Solenoid/Starter Problem

 
Ken - after re-reading your post I went searching for the elusive rubber sleeve which I never knew existed. Sure enough, it is missing from my car.

  This explains what I thought to be an oversight in the design. I have fitted a large diameter plastic hose around the actuator shaft on my decoupler to address this problem - and yes, you are correct, there is no room for an "R" pin with this sleeve in place.

  On the diff-lock actuator shaft I apply silver grease and wipe off and replace it after playing in the sand or slush.

  I have searched EKTA and cannot find the sleeve you describe.

  It would be a useful piece of kit.

  Does anyone have a part number for it?

  Now I'm thinking of hunting for something similar that can be adapted to fit while still retaining the useful "R" pin.

  After experiencing vacuum failures in the past I like the idea of manual control to get me out of trouble.

  Even though I have replaced the vacuum hoses and actuators they can still let you down as they are exposed to accidental damage.

  Sounds like another project to add to the list.
                                                                         Roger Beetle.