Engin build time!

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

Finally getting around to making progress on another engine. It’s only a matter of time before my engine finally gives up. It’s covered 100k km since I’ve had it, but no firm details on when it was rebuilt before I got it.
After collecting bits and pieces of two engines, both would need a lot of work and parts to resurrect. A complete engine from a 2WD sold to me as a good engine, but it has been sitting for a very long time, finally picked up a Syncro engine (thanks Grant!!).
Given the issues these engines can have, made the decision I would give this a good tidy up before installing. A lot of bits needed going over, the exhaust was quite rusty and I figured it would be good to replace what seals I could while it was out. As with any job on old cars, once you start, you open a whole can of worms! The worst of which was finding green coolant in the engine. So I’ve taken the heads off to have a deeper look.
I’m guessing the green coolant had not been in for long as corrosion had only just started. Coolant pipes, engine block etc all looked OK. There was a bit of corrosion in the water pump, but corrosion had already started on the heads. Just goes to show even though things appeared fine, and the coolant came out very clean, the rot had begun!
Slowly going through it all, everything so far looks in spec, crank end float, ring gap etc. Still have a bit more checking, but so far so good. No evidence of cracks in the heads but will put a die test on them once I’ve cleaned them up.
Exhaust and bits and pieces patched up as needed and cleaned and painted ready to go.

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

It’s interesting to see despite everything appeared OK in the cooling system, but how quick rot sets in on the mating surface of the heads. Luckily, it’s cleaning up OK so far.
Still need to check the cam followers etc for wear (there’s a fair bit of wear in the valve adjusting screws). The flywheel was not great.
The mating face for the water pump has some wear, but it should be fine. As long as I find no other issues, I hop to have it ready to assemble on the weekend.

but seems to have cleaned up OK. I still need to check it for wear.

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

A couple of technical questions if someone can help.

The catalytic converter has had the internals removed. Other than the obvious issue with emissions, will this affect the engine running? The O2 sensor is inside it, not sure if this being all open will affect how it reads the exhaust? Also, not sure if the lower back pressure will affect how the engine runs?

The head studs, which was my main concern, all are very clean and shiny. On the two engines I’ve worked on previously, the heads studs are black (what you’d normally expect for a high tensile bolt). I’m not sure if these are plated or type of stainless steel?? Has anyone seen heads studs that are very shiny (looks like polished stainless)
They all look very clean, so am inclined to leave them in.

Thanks for any help on this.
Richard

[kombi4x427lc (Scott Pitcher)]

Hi Richard,

Excellent progress, looks like Valla got the bug back for you and you are clearly getting stuck in!

I have the inner bits of my 2wd cat converter removed I noted when I pulled my exhaust apart s while back. No issues noted from that to date.

Those stainless steel head studs look fantastic - I would run with them.

I would possibly machine the flywheel or replace it - agree it looks terrible!

Best of luck!

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

Cheers Scott, I was not aware there were stainless studs available, but yes they all look like new and all were replaced.
Flywheel cleaned up now and ready to go.
Thanks on the Cat converter. The muffler is locally made and quite a bit shorter (120mm) than the original. Might look at modifying the outlet pipe so the outlet is not under the body.

[kombi4x427lc (Scott Pitcher)]

The tailpipe can be replaced by any muffler shop

[unclekenz (Ken Garratt)]

Hi Richard & Scott,
So what to tell or show the muffler shop guy about the shaping for an original syncro tailpipe?
See the pic. Shows upon leaving the muffler, the tailpipe bends upwards thereafter it curves downwards. Idea apparently being it helps exhaust somewhat when wading.
I cut the muffler end a bit shorter as I found on steeper exits, it could drag on the ground or an obstacle.
See shape also: vw 025251185g - Search

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

Thanks Uncle Ken, great to hear from you! I did buy an outlet pipe, but the flange on the muffler was cut off. Also the end of the muffler in your photo, with the muffler I have that end is 120mm shorter (closer to the left of the van). I’ll look to weld an extension on.
Interestingly even though the heads look good, the adjusting screws for the valves are well mushroomed over. Not sure if they have worn quickly, or if they re-used old ones. I have a new set to go in.
The engine mounts are also buggered,
Still going through bits and pieces, but should have everything I need now to replace everything that needs it.

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

The corrosion on the heads was a little more than expected. They are otherwise in good condition. I do have a set of good used heads that have had a tidy up, so will use them, and fix these heads later.
I also have a set of cam followers that have had the face that runs on the cam re-ground, so will clean them up to use and check for any wear in them.

I have a question though on the studs in the head. I see the new AMC heads usually come with two exhaust studs.
Does anyone have details on what the heads had originally? Was there one exhaust stud per exhaust port ( the top thread) and a bolt used in the lower thread?
I have new studs to instal, and recoils (helicoil) to instal, just want to get it back to original.

[kombi4x427lc (Scott Pitcher)]

This is the problem, I haven’t seen an original head for a long time.

The last time I saw an original head was on a dead engine that I scored for free and used it for parts yet I only parted it down to the long block - no heads off! Then sold the long block for $100.

I would say AMC heads would run the same as the factory version - why would they change?

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

Cheers Scott, looks like AMC heads all come with two studs (supplied loose). So you would assume two need to be bolts, No idea where though.
From memory you cannot instal/remove the exhaust is all are studs.
The reconditioned heads I have (AMC), one has 4 studs installed, the other two. (came from a 2WD though) I’ve left them as is, I figure they are easy to remove if required. I will put the head with the 4 studs on the driver’s side.
I have two (very dead) factory heads, some one was throwing them out, I picked them up just so I know what they are. I also have a motor from a 2WD with factory heads. Was pulled from a running (very rusty) van, but has been sitting for a long time. I plan to strip this down also and see what it looks like.

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

So far everything is looking good. This motor had a triple pulley which was great. I’ve just used the pulley seal that was in the kit (it’s the same as the one that was in there). The pulley does have the extra shield for the Syncro motor.
Bearings, rings, barrels, end float etc are still within spec. Head studs look good, clean, no corrosion etc.
There was some very minor damage on the block where head seal sits and have put some epoxy there to make it level.
Most part and now cleaned/repaired as required, all seals are new, and going back together again!

[kombi4x427lc (Scott Pitcher)]

Nice work Richard.

Looks like a very nice motor in the making!

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

Thanks Scott. Yes getting closer! It’s well used but good. A few things are not perfect, the flywheel could use a skim, I have just touched up lightly for now.
All going well want to get it in this week end

[unclekenz (Ken Garratt)]

Beautifully done Richard.
I take it you’ve skilled up the girls on how to paint proper?

[kombi4x427lc (Scott Pitcher)]

Nice work Richard.

Very colourful too.

That will definitely add power and performance!

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

Thanks Ken, yes and prep also!
Haha, maybe I sound have gone red for some extra performance Scott

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

Been a bit slack on updating this. Was running late for a trip away as usual.
Removing the old engine and installing this one took longer than expected. Good news is the engine went together well. Very glad I pulled the heads rather than just using the engine. It certainly would have failed soon. Finding green coolant in there was not a good sign.
Few interesting notes, my comment regarding the exhaust studs, looks like it would work fine with all 8 studs installed (no bolts required. The SS exhaust stud kit I bought, the studs were quite short, so never used them. I’ll probably make my own next time! The ones in the kit could easily be 15mm longer.
Was slow and steady to put it all together again, lost track of all the new parts used, injectors, all fuel lines and seals, all engine gaskets/seals, all coolant hoses, and lots more bits and pieces.
Was also interesting to note the carrier at the back of the engine (between the “moustache bar” and the engine mounts is different on a Syncro to a 2WD. Just another part different!

Few little hick ups putting the engine in, I should have replaced the engine mounts, these had sagged which made lining everything up difficult.
On a positive note, the engine fired right up! Was certainly very happy with that. After a few short runs, one of hte oil pressure switches started to leak through the connector. Lucky, I had a spare. Also had an exhaust gasket leak, so had to remove that and re-seal.

I should also point out the gasket for the oil pump which comes with the seal kit I would not recommend using it. It would make the oil pump leak badly (internal bypass). Plus the new end plate, I bought is just a flat steel plate. I ditched the gasket and lapped in the original plate, and glad I did as I’m sure it would have caused issues otherwise.

On, and the engine seemed to run quite hot. The new thermostat I installed was opening ~5C higher than it should. I had a spare and installed that which helped, it it still seems to run hotter than normal. I still need to figure out what is causing that.

Anyway, got the engine in and did a lot of running around and tuning over the next day or so. It seemed to be running fine and was already 1 day late for a trip to Fraser.
I madly packed the van and headed out the next morning.
I’m glad to say the trip went well. Got there and back fine. The engine performed well and got me home.

All up the “new” engine has done 2500km now. It does run hotter than the old engine, and also uses more fuel. I’ve had a look at a few things, but nothing I can put this down to yet.
Looks like I’ll need to get some more equipment to make tuning the EFI better.

One issue I know I do have, the old exhaust which I have cleaned/repaired and re-used, the catalytic converter has had the internals removed, and the muffler is quite different to a stock one. Not sure if this would cause any of the issues I have. I assume it would impact the reading from the O2 sensor.

Anyway, hopefully it’s up for a trip to old bar!

[kombi4x427lc (Scott Pitcher)]

Might be worth changing back to the old cat and muffler.

They can make a huge performance/ economy difference but not sure on temperature.

Engine timing can have a big effect on temperature.

I’m sure you will work it out.

[cathrich1 (Richard)]

Cheers Scott, I’ll leave the old engine complete for now, have looked around at what is available, so will order a new one soon. Yes have checked the timing, that is fine.
I need to hook up the shoebox electronic kit I have (I’ve not attached it to an ECU yet) so I can check things while running, and will look into a probe for the exhaust so I can set up throttle bodies with a readout.