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>they seem to be saying they are "original Puch".Jep, that's what they are saying.
>Presume they are metal even enamelled.Sorry, these are stickers (the German word "Aufkleber", written in red in the ad, means "sticker" or "decal" in English).
>if anyone knows more about the supplier/goods or reads German.Sorry again, donno much about the supplier. His internet site "www.der-bus-shop.de" and his ebay-shop "der-bus-shop" do suggest, however, that he deals wiht a lot of spare parts and performance accesories for T1's, T2's, T3's, T4's and T5's for example.
Hi Roger,
Sorry to spoil your dreams of an original Puch badge. Then again what do get these days for $ 4.65 ?? , some carrots or an AUFKLEBER --sticker—that’s what it says . what a pity, I would have bought one too as mine has only one fitted. hartmut
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Roger Bell
Sent: Tuesday, 19 January 2010 10:42 PM
To: Syncro Aust Group
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fw: Puch badges
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For the information of newer members, Joachim travelled Australia in an ex German Police Syncro, which he converted into a well equipped camper, about five years ago. He shipped it to Australia , toured very extensively (including Tasmania ) and shipped it home at the end. Joachim is an early member of our group who was inactive while he was studying but back on deck now.
Les
From:
Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
[mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of veilofhiddenes
Sent: 20 January 2010 04:29
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re:
Fw: Puch badges
Roger and All,
>they seem to be saying they are "original Puch".Jep, that's what they are saying.
>Presume they are metal even enamelled.Sorry, these are stickers (the German word "Aufkleber", written in red in the ad, means "sticker" or "decal" in English).
>if anyone knows more about the supplier/goods or reads German.Sorry again, donno much about the supplier. His internet site "www.der-bus- shop.de" and his ebay-shop "der-bus-shop" do suggest, however, that he deals wiht a lot of spare parts and performance accesories for T1's, T2's, T3's, T4's and T5's for example.
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--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Les Harris" <leslieharris@...> wrote:
>
> For the information of newer members, Joachim travelled Australia in an ex
> German Police Syncro, which he converted into a well equipped camper, about
> five years ago. He shipped it to Australia, toured very extensively
> (including Tasmania) and shipped it home at the end. Joachim is an early
> member of our group who was inactive while he was studying but back on deck
> now.
>
> Les
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of veilofhiddenes
> Sent: 20 January 2010 04:29
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Fw: Puch badges
>
>
>
>
>
> Roger and All,
>
> >they seem to be saying they are "original Puch".
>
> Jep, that's what they are saying.
>
> >Presume they are metal even enamelled.
>
> Sorry, these are stickers (the German word "Aufkleber", written in red in
> the ad, means "sticker" or "decal" in English).
>
> >if anyone knows more about the supplier/goods or reads German.
>
> Sorry again, donno much about the supplier. His internet site
> "www.der-bus-shop.de" and his ebay-shop "der-bus-shop" do suggest, however,
> that he deals wiht a lot of spare parts and performance accesories for T1's,
> T2's, T3's, T4's and T5's for example.
>
> Hope this helps. Please let me know if I could be of further help! I am
> German, live in Germany and am a freelance translator working in the
> language combination English/German :)
>
> Cheers
>
> Joachim
>
Hi Bruce,
Did you perhaps have the system serviced ? The total refrigerant amount in the system is critical. If it’s too much refrigerant in the evaporator the system is going to flood and you end up with liquid refrigerant on the pistons, this can stall a compressor, and cause it to burn out. Way back I had to modify some 30 Benz Meat Trucks in Swaziland by installing an oil separator into the suction line to overcome this problem. You don’t have to do this, if the coolant amount is correct you should not have a problem, unless your system is on the blink........hartmut
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alison &
Bruce Black
Sent: Thursday, 21 January 2010 2:21 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Air-conditioning
Hello All
Have air-con trouble. The rubber part of the clutch on
the compressor has gone kaput. Possibly caused by too high a head
pressure. This apparently can be caused by not enough air flow over
the condenser.
They say the only way to tell really what the problem is, is to fix
the clutch then do measurements from there. About $250
It has run really well for 9 years.
Any thoughts anyone.
Bruce
Thanks everyone for all your feedback. In light of this my Syncro will continue to avoid advertising any relationship with Uncle Steyer Puch.
Nice of Joachim to chip in again. I well remember enjoying reading of his exploits on this forum a few years back. Pity he didn't leave it in Australia although I seem to remember the 1.6 diesel struggled a bit with the distances and load plus probably imported it on a carnet which obliged him to reexport it or pay sunstantial duty.
Cheers
Roger
--- On Wed, 20/1/10, Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:
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See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now.
See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now.
Hi Bruce,
Did you perhaps have the system serviced ? The total refrigerant amount in the system is critical. If it’s too much refrigerant in the evaporator the system is going to flood and you end up with liquid refrigerant on the pistons, this can stall a compressor, and cause it to burn out. Way back I had to modify some 30 Benz Meat Trucks in Swaziland by installing an oil separator into the suction line to overcome this problem. You don’t have to do this, if the coolant amount is correct you should not have a problem, unless your system is on the blink....... .hartmut
From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Alison & Bruce Black
Sent: Thursday, 21 January 2010 2:21 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Air-conditioning
Bruce,
Can you elaborate on “the rubber part of the clutch” . An A/C clutch is metal to metal engagement by an electromagnet, there is no rubber parts. Perhaps the “rubber” reference is to the shaft seal which is made of rubber and ceramic washers. This seal could be damaged by excessive pressure of the refrigerant if the second stage fan ceases operating (faulty pressure switch/wiring) or if the condenser is blocked (by mud, excessive insect build up etc). Insufficient cooling of the refrigerant could result in exceeding the maximum HP rating of the compressor. I presume this is what they found by doing a pressure test with nitrogen gas.
I would be inclined to put the $250 towards a new compressor rather than renewing the seal on a worn unit. Ken could give you costing on a new compressor as he indicated making a purchase recently.
Yurik
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alison &
Bruce Black
Sent: Thursday, 21 January 2010 11:21 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Air-conditioning
Hello All
Have air-con trouble. The rubber part of the clutch on
the compressor has gone kaput. Possibly caused by too high a head
pressure. This apparently can be caused by not enough air flow over
the condenser.
They say the only way to tell really what the problem is, is to fix
the clutch then do measurements from there. About $250
It has run really well for 9 years.
Any thoughts anyone.
Bruce
Bruce,
Can you elaborate on “the rubber part of the clutch” . An A/C clutch is metal to metal engagement by an electromagnet, there is no rubber parts. Perhaps the “rubber” reference is to the shaft seal which is made of rubber and ceramic washers. This seal could be damaged by excessive pressure of the refrigerant if the second stage fan ceases operating (faulty pressure switch/wiring) or if the condenser is blocked (by mud, excessive insect build up etc). Insufficient cooling of the refrigerant could result in exceeding the maximum HP rating of the compressor. I presume this is what they found by doing a pressure test with nitrogen gas.
I would be inclined to put the $250 towards a new compressor rather than renewing the seal on a worn unit. Ken could give you costing on a new compressor as he indicated making a purchase recently.
Yurik
From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Alison & Bruce Black
Sent: Thursday, 21 January 2010 11:21 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Air-conditioning
Bruce,
Can you elaborate on “the rubber part of the clutch” . An A/C clutch is metal to metal engagement by an electromagnet, there is no rubber parts. Perhaps the “rubber” reference is to the shaft seal which is made of rubber and ceramic washers. This seal could be damaged by excessive pressure of the refrigerant if the second stage fan ceases operating (faulty pressure switch/wiring) or if the condenser is blocked (by mud, excessive insect build up etc). Insufficient cooling of the refrigerant could result in exceeding the maximum HP rating of the compressor. I presume this is what they found by doing a pressure test with nitrogen gas.
I would be inclined to put the $250 towards a new compressor rather than renewing the seal on a worn unit. Ken could give you costing on a new compressor as he indicated making a purchase recently.
Yurik
On 21/01/2010, at 10:18 PM, Yurik Orlowsky wrote:
Bruce,
Can you elaborate on “the rubber part of the clutch” . An A/C clutch is metal to metal engagement by an electromagnet, there is no rubber parts. Perhaps the “rubber” reference is to the shaft seal which is made of rubber and ceramic washers. This seal could be damaged by excessive pressure of the refrigerant if the second stage fan ceases operating (faulty pressure switch/wiring) or if the condenser is blocked (by mud, excessive insect build up etc). Insufficient cooling of the refrigerant could result in exceeding the maximum HP rating of the compressor. I presume this is what they found by doing a pressure test with nitrogen gas.
I would be inclined to put the $250 towards a new compressor rather than renewing the seal on a worn unit. Ken could give you costing on a new compressor as he indicated making a purchase recently.
Yurik
> Alison & Bruce Black <royalb@aapt.net.au> wrote:
>
> Ken & Yurik
> As it turns out the compressor is completely shot.
> So that solves that problem.
>
> As you say Yurik most likely caused by insufficient cooling of the
> refrigerant.
Bruce,
Welcome aboard the SCASIG (Syncro Cactus Air-con Special Interest Group), always looking for new recruits.
Is your compressor an oldish Sanden model? Mine is and I've been warned off them and reconditioning them is not a viable option.
Older compressors like the Sanden in my Prestige system have "flared" connectors on the refrigerant lines, apparently all new compressors now have "O" ring connectors, meaning not only do you have to buy a new type compressor, you also have to decide how to best connect your old "flared" connector refrigerant lines to the newer "O" ring compressor connectors. As Malcolm Frazer once said, (pants up I think), "life wasn't meant to be easy!"
That's the stumbling block I'm still mulling over ... either just add adaptors to both lines or get the refrigerant hose connectors changed over to "O" ring type connectors so as to avoid adding adaptors (meaning more connections to leak and also messier in an already congested engine bay).
That's just stage one. Then there's other things probably would be astute to replace at the same time like TX valve and Receiver-Drier and get the system properly flushed of contaminants, debris. You don't want to contaminate the new compressor. Yurik is the expert on this if you have questions, I'm simply facing a similar problem to yours and trying to work through the minefield. Of course, throwing wads of cash at it can solve the problem.
I'd be very interested to hear any feedback from you as to how you proceed with the air-con fix ok, if you proceed. Thanks.
Cheers.
Ken.