Your circumstance is no different to mine re cluster replacement so should be pretty straightforward albeit fiddly.
This replacement project I found to be something not to be entered into lightly or you could come unstuck/get your fingers burnt in the process. Finding a cluster in either good nic or one that is at least fully repairable is the key .... and may take quite some time and patience to uncover a suitable cluster. You may fluke a cheaper one but $US200 plus as well as say minimum $US50-60 for shipping is not unusual for one in claimed reasonably good condition. But do expect repairs will be needed somewhere, they are getting on a bit age wise. Though mine is good still after I carried out repairs and maintenance and strengthening .. no problemo. mine was claimed to be in very good nic by the seller. Haha
Issues for example and this is not an exhaustive list:
Search for as late a year model cluster as you can find, say for example 1989 and later would be nice. Someone else will know more on this but the later clusters had included the oil pressure switch circuitry (my mind is failing me on this ... its something like that) Getting an early model, you may end up disappointed. Anyone care to clarify this better?
Some have broken/shattered plastic corners to and beyond the rear fastening positions of the actual instrument housings ... some are worse than others, some don't give you a full and frank description, some say "It's in good shape", just love that gobbledegook phrase.
Some have broken plastic fasten down tabs where the cluster is screw fastened to the dash panel. Avoid these.
Some have non-working digital clocks, although they "may" just need some TLC attention to get working again.
Some have blown instrument light globes.
Some have broken front alignment tabs where the cover piece aligns with the cluster housing.
The instrument cluster circuitry foils on the rear of the replacement cluster are all correct as is ...no problem, so long as they are not missing/damaged/torn/whatever.
The question of final drive ratio doesn't come into it at all. You simply remove the foreign speedometer instrument from the cluster you buy and fit in its place your own syncro speedometer instrument and then refit to it your existing speedo cable ... just as it was before.
The "handbrake ON" warning light module (LHS of cluster) in your present cluster is also re-used ... a simple swap out/in. The module we don't use here is the seatbelt warning.
You also get an extra switch on the RHS ... its typically to switch on/off the rear window defogger. If you don't have a defogger, I re-deployed it as my on/off switch for my pair of front spotlights ... much more elegant solution than the toggle switch I had before.
It comes down to sniffing out/getting a feel for the good ones on offer, ignoring the suss ones .... all takes time and online searching ad nauseum till you strike a gooden.
Can't think of anything else other than if you try the german source, you may need a translator assistant, especially if you feel you need to ask detailed questions to the seller.
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: leslieharris@optusnet.com.au
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 21:40:37 +1100
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Instrument Cluster
Ken,
I was unsure about where the drive comes from but if you fitted a US cluster and as far as I know the US delivered Syncros were all 4.86 final drive ratio, that probably answers the question – it must be wheel related, not ratio related.
It is now a matter of determining if the wiring in mine will take the tacho cluster.
Phill,
Did your cryptic “yes” mean that you have fitted a tacho cluster? If so, where did you source it and did it adapt directly or were mods needed?
Les
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: 14 December 2010 20:47
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Instrument Cluster
Phill probably knows the answer to the first question.
I installed the digital clock & tacho model cluster some time ago, bought on US eBay.
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: subimanx@dodo.com.au
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 09:35:33 +0000
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Instrument Cluster
I might strip the loom from the Caravelle and have a looksie then....
Sent via BlackBerry® from VodafoneFrom: thaivwclub@yahoo.com
Sender: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 09:29:21 +0000
To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
ReplyTo: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Instrument Cluster
I used to replace clock with tachometer on my T3 diesel.
You need to have the right foil (the back of the cluster) for tachometer.
I was lucky I found the foil with centre dash clock with tachometer ;-)
What do you want to know?
Pat
From: "syncroaustralia" <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au>
Sender: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 07:55:49 -0000
To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
ReplyTo: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Instrument Cluster
Thanks
Les