Oil light and buzzer

1
Hi all,

My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on once in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of oil filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive and long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving on Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the engine at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will come back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.

Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour, only changed about 2000km's ago.

Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an 1983 T3 fit a syncro?

Thanks guys,
Sam
2
Anytime oil light or buzzer comes on is a serious problem.There should be oil pressure all the time even at idle.Maybe worn oilpump.What grade of oil do you use?

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "heysamuelarnold" <me@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on once in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of oil filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive and long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving on Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the engine at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will come back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
>
> Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour, only changed about 2000km's ago.
>
> Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an 1983 T3 fit a syncro?
>
> Thanks guys,
> Sam
>
3
I would replace your oil pump before anything serious happens.
 
Check around for any major oil leaks.
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 2:46 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil light and buzzer

 

Hi all,

My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on once in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of oil filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive and long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving on Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the engine at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will come back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.

Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour, only changed about 2000km's ago.

Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an 1983 T3 fit a syncro?

Thanks guys,
Sam

4
Thanks guys. I will be booking in for a new oil pump as soon as I get back to Sydney and hopefully that will fix things. I run usually just 20-50w, but please don't start another oil war on my account :)

Anyone confirm for me that the dash and hand brake from an earlier T3 will fit the syncro?

Sam

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "bencroft96" <bencroft96@...> wrote:
>
> Anytime oil light or buzzer comes on is a serious problem.There should be oil pressure all the time even at idle.Maybe worn oilpump.What grade of oil do you use?
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "heysamuelarnold" <me@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on once in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of oil filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive and long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving on Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the engine at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will come back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
> >
> > Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour, only changed about 2000km's ago.
> >
> > Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an 1983 T3 fit a syncro?
> >
> > Thanks guys,
> > Sam
> >
>
5
On Jan 11, 2010, at 6:28 AM, "heysamuelarnold" <me@samarnold.org> wrote:

> Anyone confirm for me that the dash and hand brake from an earlier
> T3 will fit the syncro?


Sam,

Though the earlier T3 hand brake handle can be made to fit, why would
you want to change over? Most people want to change over to the newer
handle which places the grip at a more comfortable position.

As far the 'dash', I'm afraid you need to be more specific for people
like me. In my part if the world, we mean the whole dash board. And in
our situation, there three types of dash surfaces. The very 'L' models
received no padding whatsoever -- all metal. The early 'GL' models got
a partial pad which only covered the leading edge. Later models got
fully padded vinyl dash in brown or black. On the Wolfsburg Editions,
they also had grey pads available. Then in 1990-91, VWofA brought back
the 'L' models with steel dashes as price leaders alongside the plush
'GL's.

On the otherhand if you mean the instrument cluster, that's a whole
'nother story.


Regards,

BenT

>
6
Sam,

While travelling OZ for 9 month in 2004, I was experiencing similar probs. The buzzer stopped coming on after I changed from 10W40 to 20W50.

The oil pump has already been mentioned. Maybe also replace the TWO oil pressure switches (hi-pressure and low-pressue), which are both located on the motor block (one can not be seen without having to dismount some bits and pieces - sorry for not being able to tell exactly where they are to be found, my syncro has been off the road for years now, but maybe somebody else in the group would know where they are located. Or maybe you could check this using the repair manual in case you would have this available).

BTW: I have driven with the 20W50 WITHOUT changing neither the pump nor the switches, although I was recommended to do so immediately. 30.000 km later the system is still running very smoothly - maybe I was just lucky.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Joachim
(from Germany)

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "heysamuelarnold" <me@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks guys. I will be booking in for a new oil pump as soon as I get back to Sydney and hopefully that will fix things. I run usually just 20-50w, but please don't start another oil war on my account :)
>
> Anyone confirm for me that the dash and hand brake from an earlier T3 will fit the syncro?
>
> Sam
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "bencroft96" <bencroft96@> wrote:
> >
> > Anytime oil light or buzzer comes on is a serious problem.There should be oil pressure all the time even at idle.Maybe worn oilpump.What grade of oil do you use?
> >
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "heysamuelarnold" <me@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on once in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of oil filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive and long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving on Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the engine at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will come back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
> > >
> > > Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour, only changed about 2000km's ago.
> > >
> > > Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an 1983 T3 fit a syncro?
> > >
> > > Thanks guys,
> > > Sam
> > >
> >
>
7
What brand of filter do you have now?
What brand of oil do you have now?

The high pressure switch operates the light and warning buzzer and only works over 2000rpm. The low pressure only operates the light but at all times.

It could be your high pressure switch defective if the pressure is OK. Are there any bearing rattles?

Never ever buy oil filters from Repco, Autobahn, Supercheap etc. They do not sell the correct ones.



> heysamuelarnold <me@samarnold.org> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on once
> in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of oil
> filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive and
> long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving on
> Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning
> buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the engine
> at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will come
> back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
>
> Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is
> plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour,
> only changed about 2000km's ago.
>
> Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an 1983
> T3 fit a syncro?
>
> Thanks guys,
> Sam
8
Check your wiring first.I Ran mine for years with the buzzer disabled and the light flashing only to finally discover that there was a short in the wiring behind the dash. Good luck, Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "heysamuelarnold" <me@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on once in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of oil filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive and long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving on Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the engine at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will come back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
>
> Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour, only changed about 2000km's ago.
>
> Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an 1983 T3 fit a syncro?
>
> Thanks guys,
> Sam
>
9
The intermittent buzzer/ idiot light thing worries me.
 
I had an old work friend who bought a second hand commodore V6 wagon and within a couple of days his oil light started to come on. I asked him if he checked his oil levels - he said yes so I suggested a new switch might be worth while.
 
He decided to takes some mates down to Sydney along the F3 the next day and his engine seized from lack of oil pressure due to a dud oil pump. A new commodore motor is cheap - a new VW 2.1 MV motor is not.
 
If you are worried get your mechanic to do a pressure test on the oil pump before you buy one. That might at least give you some piece of mind.
 
Scott
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: bergodaz
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 9:14 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 

Check your wiring first.I Ran mine for years with the buzzer disabled and the light flashing only to finally discover that there was a short in the wiring behind the dash. Good luck, Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, "heysamuelarnold" <me@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on once in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of oil filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive and long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving on Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the engine at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will come back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
>
> Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour, only changed about 2000km's ago.
>
> Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an 1983 T3 fit a syncro?
>
> Thanks guys,
> Sam
>

10
Message
Would this be a good place to fit an oil pressure gauge, with a Tee junction at the pressure switch just below the oil pump?
 
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mr Scott Pitcher
Sent: Tuesday, 12 January 2010 11:24 a.m.
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 <<< If you are worried get your mechanic to do a pressure test on the oil pump before you buy one. That might at least give you some piece of mind. >>> 
 
Scott
 
<<<The high pressure switch operates the light and warning buzzer and only works over 2000rpm. The low pressure only operates the light but at all times. >>> 
 
<<<The oil pump has already been mentioned. Maybe also replace the TWO oil pressure switches (hi-pressure and low-pressure) , which are both located on the motor block (one can not be seen without having to dismount some bits and pieces>>>
11
Yes - I would say so and that's what I will be doing to mine (however I am running a 6cyl FI suby donk and hence it is completely different to your system - I bought a new oil pump recently and it came with a pressure gauge sender rather than an idiot light sender. Hence - I just need to get off my ass and get the remaining bits i.e. a gauge -and lots of wire plus a bracket to fit it on.
 
Very good insurance for your engine.
 
Cheers,
 
Scott
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 1:00 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 

Would this be a good place to fit an oil pressure gauge, with a Tee junction at the pressure switch just below the oil pump?
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Mr Scott Pitcher
Sent: Tuesday, 12 January 2010 11:24 a.m.
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 <<< If you are worried get your mechanic to do a pressure test on the oil pump before you buy one. That might at least give you some piece of mind. >>> 
 
Scott
 
<<<The high pressure switch operates the light and warning buzzer and only works over 2000rpm. The low pressure only operates the light but at all times. >>> 
 
<<<The oil pump has already been mentioned. Maybe also replace the TWO oil pressure switches (hi-pressure and low-pressure) , which are both located on the motor block (one can not be seen without having to dismount some bits and pieces>>>

12
From www.bus-boys.com
http://www.bus-boys.com/bbvdo.htm
Vanagon Wasserboxer 83-91 - German engineers must have been on a Bratwurst or Beer Break when designing where to place the Oil Pressure Switch on this engine. Having it installed just below the #3 and #4 Cylinders on the case is at first an idiotic looking place, being most difficult to get to, even under the best conditions. But in reality, it is actually the best spot, because it monitors the oil pressure right at the Main and Cam Bearings, perhaps the most important area of the engine. Again, you can use the above pressure adaptor hose kit to accomplish proper installation. Remove the lower #3 and #4 engine tin, then remove your existing Oil Pressure Switch, mount the male end of the hose to the case (use teflon tape for sealing). Get a hacksaw or other appropriate cutting device to cut a "notched hole" through the lower engine tin, get an appropriate sized grommet from your local auto parts place (Radio Shack carries an assortment - real inexpensive) and put it the hole to prevent the hose from being cut by the engine tin. Reinstall the tin, putting the hose through the hole. Then mount the Pressure Sender to the other end of the hose (DO NOT use teflon tape - it has to ground!). Use the circular strap that comes with the hose assembly, wrap it around the sender (do not insulate with rubber - the sender has to ground!) and then using the tapping screw provided, drill a small hole in the lower engine tin and secure the sender to the engine tin. Other customers have used other piping arrangements and you can too as well if you desire not to use the VDO Pressure Adaptor Hose Kit. Please remember that the threads at both the female and male ends must be 10mm diameter with a 1.0mm thread pitch. Hose provided is a little over 12 inches long.
>
13
Ralph,
Did I read it right? Seems the kit is NLA.
Ken
 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: rrmoss@xtra.co.nz
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 09:02:14 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 
From www.bus-boys. com
http://www.bus- boys.com/ bbvdo.htm
Vanagon Wasserboxer 83-91 - German engineers must have been on a Bratwurst or Beer Break when designing where to place the Oil Pressure Switch on this engine. Having it installed just below the #3 and #4 Cylinders on the case is at first an idiotic looking place, being most difficult to get to, even under the best conditions. But in reality, it is actually the best spot, because it monitors the oil pressure right at the Main and Cam Bearings, perhaps the most important area of the engine. Again, you can use the above pressure adaptor hose kit to accomplish proper installation. Remove the lower #3 and #4 engine tin, then remove your existing Oil Pressure Switch, mount the male end of the hose to the case (use teflon tape for sealing). Get a hacksaw or other appropriate cutting device to cut a "notched hole" through the lower engine tin, get an appropriate sized grommet from your local auto parts place (Radio Shack carries an assortment - real inexpensive) and put it the hole to prevent the hose from being cut by the engine tin. Reinstall the tin, putting the hose through the hole. Then mount the Pressure Sender to the other end of the hose (DO NOT use teflon tape - it has to ground!). Use the circular strap that comes with the hose assembly, wrap it around the sender (do not insulate with rubber - the sender has to ground!) and then using the tapping screw provided, drill a small hole in the lower engine tin and secure the sender to the engine tin. Other customers have used other piping arrangements and you can too as well if you desire not to use the VDO Pressure Adaptor Hose Kit. Please remember that the threads at both the female and male ends must be 10mm diameter with a 1.0mm thread pitch. Hose provided is a little over 12 inches long.
>



Sell your old one fast! Time for a new car?
14
Message

Ken,

Looks like it but I recon it's just as easy to make your own?

"You must have a Hose and Fittings outlet

or contact a place that services construction equipment. and have a small rubber hose made or a braided stainless steel with Teflon lining hose that will withstand heat up to 2,000 degrees and should not deteriorate under engine heat conditions...The length for the hose should be 3 5/8 inches.... for the stainless steel hose, if they cut it to 3 1/2 inches (end of fitting to end of fitting) it will grow to 3 5/8 inches when they crimp the collars of the fittings to the ss hose.

1/8 inch pipe threads work great on both the sender and the stock sender hole even though those threads are 11 mm. Get your hose made up with a 1/8 inch male pipe thread fitting on one end and a 1/4 inch tapered female fitting (like tapered gas fittings) on the other end. Get an elbow with 1/4 inch tapered male on one end and 1/8 inch female pipe thread on the other end. The tapered fitting works great in that you can install the engine tin with the hose through the rubber grommet and add the sender with the elbow attached last such that you can choose the angle you want it to end up at... with pipe threads once it is tight that is the angle your sender will be mounted at! fix with a 'P' shaped hose strap. You can use the VDO single sender instead of a dual sender by using a T in place of the elbow above such that the VDO sender is at one end of the T and the original stock .3 Bar sender is at the other end of the T"

-----Original Message-----
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Wednesday, 13 January 2010 12:39 p.m.
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 

Ralph,
Did I read it right? Seems the kit is NLA.
Ken
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
From: rrmoss@xtra. co.nz
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 09:02:14 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 
From www.bus-boys. com
http://www.bus- boys.com/ bbvdo.htm
Vanagon Wasserboxer 83-91 - German engineers must have been on a Bratwurst or Beer Break when designing where to place the Oil Pressure Switch on this engine. Having it installed just below the #3 and #4 Cylinders on the case is at first an idiotic looking place, being most difficult to get to, even under the best conditions. But in reality, it is actually the best spot, because it monitors the oil pressure right at the Main and Cam Bearings, perhaps the most important area of the engine. Again, you can use the above pressure adaptor hose kit to accomplish proper installation. Remove the lower #3 and #4 engine tin, then remove your existing Oil Pressure Switch, mount the male end of the hose to the case (use teflon tape for sealing). Get a hacksaw or other appropriate cutting device to cut a "notched hole" through the lower engine tin, get an appropriate sized grommet from your local auto parts place (Radio Shack carries an assortment - real inexpensive) and put it the hole to prevent the hose from being cut by the engine tin. Reinstall the tin, putting the hose through the hole. Then mount the Pressure Sender to the other end of the hose (DO NOT use teflon tape - it has to ground!). Use the circular strap that comes with the hose assembly, wrap it around the sender (do not insulate with rubber - the sender has to ground!) and then using the tapping screw provided, drill a small hole in the lower engine tin and secure the sender to the engine tin. Other customers have used other piping arrangements and you can too as well if you desire not to use the VDO Pressure Adaptor Hose Kit. Please remember that the threads at both the female and male ends must be 10mm diameter with a 1.0mm thread pitch. Hose provided is a little over 12 inches long.
>



Sell your old one fast! Time for a new car?

15
Thanks everyone for the advice. I might look at changing the oil pressure switches, as it sounds like a bit easier (cheaper) job than the oil pump which rarely fails? Any tips on locating / determining if it's a electrical problem vs an actual oil pressure problem? Do I try and install an oil pressure gauge or is there any other possibilities? Sorry this a bit beyond my mechanical expertise so lots of questions.

Phill, I use the Mann oil filter now as about 2-3 years ago when the buzzer first went off I had a Valvoline oil filter. Changing to the Mann filter I thought fixed things... up until now.

Thanks BenT. Yep, I meant the whole metal dash, not instrument cluster, and had no idea there are so many possible variants - but also in RHD? I ask as it's a lot lot easier to find an early 80's t3 being wrecked around here as opposed to a syncro being wrecked. In fact, if anyone knows of a syncro being wrecked, I would love to know.

Ok, bit late, better get to bed. Thanks guys. Sam.


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, BenT Syncro <syncro@...> wrote:
>
> On Jan 11, 2010, at 6:28 AM, "heysamuelarnold" <me@...> wrote:
>
> > Anyone confirm for me that the dash and hand brake from an earlier
> > T3 will fit the syncro?
>
>
> Sam,
>
> Though the earlier T3 hand brake handle can be made to fit, why would
> you want to change over? Most people want to change over to the newer
> handle which places the grip at a more comfortable position.
>
> As far the 'dash', I'm afraid you need to be more specific for people
> like me. In my part if the world, we mean the whole dash board. And in
> our situation, there three types of dash surfaces. The very 'L' models
> received no padding whatsoever -- all metal. The early 'GL' models got
> a partial pad which only covered the leading edge. Later models got
> fully padded vinyl dash in brown or black. On the Wolfsburg Editions,
> they also had grey pads available. Then in 1990-91, VWofA brought back
> the 'L' models with steel dashes as price leaders alongside the plush
> 'GL's.
>
> On the otherhand if you mean the instrument cluster, that's a whole
> 'nother story.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> BenT
>
> >
>
16
Phill, it was definitely the light and warning buzzer, but both were going bananas just at idle?? Otherwise even my better half commented that the engine sounded fine? Defective high pressure switch?

:) Sam


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>
> What brand of filter do you have now?
> What brand of oil do you have now?
>
> The high pressure switch operates the light and warning buzzer and only works over 2000rpm. The low pressure only operates the light but at all times.
>
> It could be your high pressure switch defective if the pressure is OK. Are there any bearing rattles?
>
> Never ever buy oil filters from Repco, Autobahn, Supercheap etc. They do not sell the correct ones.
>
>
>
> > heysamuelarnold <me@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on once
> > in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of oil
> > filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive and
> > long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving on
> > Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning
> > buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the engine
> > at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will come
> > back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
> >
> > Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is
> > plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour,
> > only changed about 2000km's ago.
> >
> > Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an 1983
> > T3 fit a syncro?
> >
> > Thanks guys,
> > Sam
>
17
On Jan 13, 2010, at 5:12 AM, "heysamuelarnold" <me@samarnold.org> wrote:

> Thanks BenT. Yep, I meant the whole metal dash, not instrument
> cluster, and had no idea there are so many possible variants - but
> also in RHD? I ask as it's a lot lot easier to find an early 80's
> t3 being wrecked around here as opposed to a syncro being wrecked.
> In fact, if anyone knows of a syncro being wrecked, I would love to
> know.


Hi Sam,

Yes the metal dash would be compatible. I have seen all three types
even on RHD dashes.

My experience with RHD T3's is limited as I'm in a LHD country.
However, I have owned a T25 (UK T3) Singlecab with plain metal dash;
have seen a T25 Tristar with fully padded dash; driven in a RHD T3 in
Thailand with metal dash with padded leading edge. I can't speak about
what was available in OZ.

Both 2wd & Syncro share the same metal dash. The various accouterments
such as the instrument binacle, diff lock console, dash padding,
glovebox, etc. were added on to this metal base dash. The dashes with
the edge only pads Sometimes got a small plastic grill over the center
speaker.

I almost forgot, even the base metal dashes came in either black or
brown. Padded dashes had an addition colour of grey.

On the subject of gloveboxes, they can be retrofitted to models which
came without.

Models that came with gloveboxes and the dealer installed German Behr
in-dash units or the US-made DPD in-dash AC were installed behind the
glovebox. AC center vents exit where the radio normally resides. I
have only seen these AC units in LHD vehicles. Perhaps the Behr was
available in RHD but I really do not know.

DPD is our own version on Prestige. The difference is DPD used factory
compressors and brackets. I'm fact the DPD appears better designed
than the Behr units that they were copied from. That's not usually the
case in my experience with knock-offs.


Regards,


BenT
18
I'm not sure, but I think that the buzzer should only work over 2000rpm and it only works on the high pressure sensor.



> heysamuelarnold <me@samarnold.org> wrote:
>
> Phill, it was definitely the light and warning buzzer, but both were
> going bananas just at idle?? Otherwise even my better half commented
> that the engine sounded fine? Defective high pressure switch?
>
> :) Sam
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
> >
> > What brand of filter do you have now?
> > What brand of oil do you have now?
> >
> > The high pressure switch operates the light and warning buzzer and
> only works over 2000rpm. The low pressure only operates the light but at
> all times.
> >
> > It could be your high pressure switch defective if the pressure is OK.
> Are there any bearing rattles?
> >
> > Never ever buy oil filters from Repco, Autobahn, Supercheap etc. They
> do not sell the correct ones.
> >
> >
> >
> > > heysamuelarnold <me@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on
> once
> > > in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of
> oil
> > > filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive
> and
> > > long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving
> on
> > > Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning
> > > buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the
> engine
> > > at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will
> come
> > > back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
> > >
> > > Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is
>
> > > plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour,
>
> > > only changed about 2000km's ago.
> > >
> > > Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an
> 1983
> > > T3 fit a syncro?
> > >
> > > Thanks guys,
> > > Sam
> >
19
Hi All,

Just in case anyone else comes across this one, I have found an interesting article on the "Flashing Oil Light and Buzzer Syndrome on Vanagon 86-91"

http://www.vanagain.com/buzzer2.htm

Another syndrome that affects the vanagon apparently.

So hopefully this is just electrical, though it is possible that my engine is getting too long in the tooth.

Sam


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>
> I'm not sure, but I think that the buzzer should only work over 2000rpm and it only works on the high pressure sensor.
>
>
>
> > heysamuelarnold <me@...> wrote:
> >
> > Phill, it was definitely the light and warning buzzer, but both were
> > going bananas just at idle?? Otherwise even my better half commented
> > that the engine sounded fine? Defective high pressure switch?
> >
> > :) Sam
> >
> >
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@ wrote:
> > >
> > > What brand of filter do you have now?
> > > What brand of oil do you have now?
> > >
> > > The high pressure switch operates the light and warning buzzer and
> > only works over 2000rpm. The low pressure only operates the light but at
> > all times.
> > >
> > > It could be your high pressure switch defective if the pressure is OK.
> > Are there any bearing rattles?
> > >
> > > Never ever buy oil filters from Repco, Autobahn, Supercheap etc. They
> > do not sell the correct ones.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > heysamuelarnold <me@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on
> > once
> > > > in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of
> > oil
> > > > filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive
> > and
> > > > long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving
> > on
> > > > Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning
> > > > buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the
> > engine
> > > > at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will
> > come
> > > > back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
> > > >
> > > > Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is
> >
> > > > plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour,
> >
> > > > only changed about 2000km's ago.
> > > >
> > > > Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an
> > 1983
> > > > T3 fit a syncro?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks guys,
> > > > Sam
> > >
>
20
Hart,
 
Tell us more of your exploits in the tristar - not mentioning the promotional jumps it did prior to your ownership (1st time round).
 
Thanks,
 
Scott
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 7:39 AM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 

Hold it right there, Sam,  so far mine has done  4o5 000 km and only now is starting to use some oil, say ¾  ltr per 1000 km. I wouldn’t worry too much. Even the Russians and Polish are in love with the 2.1 WBX and that’s poss why there are so few left in old Germany. Sam, also ask Ken about the treatment  mine had to endure ,Always loaded to the max ,like 2 by 300 kg each round bales on the Tristar and 3 on the dual axle trailer, going up the muddy paddock engaging the rear lock n full flight, which answers with such an enormous bang that I thought for a moment the g/box had exploded.... ......... ......

Those were the days (years) of total mis/abuse. Maybe it’s time to write down a few of those experiences. ..... Ciao Hartis

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Friday, 15 January 2010 12:25 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 

Sam,
I was told soon after I bought my syncro by a local VW service mechanic that in his opinion, a WBX motor was good for 250,000 klms, after which an overhaul is most likely due. Now I can't say one way or the other as to the veracity of this opinion. Anyone else think this is a pretty reasonable ballpark mileage for a WBX prior to overhaul?
 
If so, then I've got 50,000 clicks to go and counting down.
Ken
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
From: me@samarnold. org
Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 10:05:50 +0000
Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Oil light and buzzer

 

270k.

Any day now I will strike it rich and buy new everything for her.

Sam

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, "Ken Garratt " <unclekenz@.. .> wrote:
>
> Sam,
> How many klms has the beast done?
> Ken
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: heysamuelarnold <me@...>
> Sent: Thursday, 14 January 2010 5:21 PM
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Oil light and buzzer
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just in case anyone else comes across this one, I have found an interesting article on the "Flashing Oil Light and Buzzer Syndrome on Vanagon 86-91"
>
> http://www.vanagain .com/buzzer2. htm
>
> Another syndrome that affects the vanagon apparently.
>
> So hopefully this is just electrical, though it is possible that my engine is getting too long in the tooth.
>
> Sam
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, plander@ wrote:
> >
> > I'm not sure, but I think that the buzzer should only work over 2000rpm and it only works on the high pressure sensor.
> >
> >
> >
> > > heysamuelarnold <me@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Phill, it was definitely the light and warning buzzer, but both were
> > > going bananas just at idle?? Otherwise even my better half commented
> > > that the engine sounded fine? Defective high pressure switch?
> > >
> > > :) Sam
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, plander@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > > What brand of filter do you have now?
> > > > What brand of oil do you have now?
> > > >
> > > > The high pressure switch operates the light and warning buzzer and
> > > only works over 2000rpm. The low pressure only operates the light but at
> > > all times.
> > > >
> > > > It could be your high pressure switch defective if the pressure is OK.
> > > Are there any bearing rattles?
> > > >
> > > > Never ever buy oil filters from Repco, Autobahn, Supercheap etc. They
> > > do not sell the correct ones.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > heysamuelarnold <me@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > My latest dilemma. Previously the oil warning buzzer only came on
> > > once
> > > > > in a blue moon and I thought this stopped once I changed brand of
> > > oil
> > > > > filter. Then last trip up the coast it came on after a long drive
> > > and
> > > > > long idle, but didn't come on at all on the way back home. Driving
> > > on
> > > > > Sunday, a reasonably hot day, after say 20 minutes the oil warning
> > > > > buzzer has been coming on a lot and mostly staying on. Stop the
> > > engine
> > > > > at the traffic lights, or park for a while, then the buzzer will
> > > come
> > > > > back on say after another 5 minutes of driving.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any tips what to look for? Try some thicker oil? And yes, there is
> > >
> > > > > plenty of oil in, just under the full mark, and still a good colour,
> > >
> > > > > only changed about 2000km's ago.
> > > > >
> > > > > Another quick question, would the dash and handbrake lever from an
> > > 1983
> > > > > T3 fit a syncro?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks guys,
> > > > > Sam
> > > >
> >
>

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