Oil pressure gauge

1
I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall. Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
2
hi,
yes.
the way to do it is run a metal line ( with appropriate fittings on each end )  from the oil pressure switch
hole between the pushrod tubes under the left side ..
then run that metal line forward and up.....so it's on top of the engine block above cylinder 3 ...
and support it against flexing and vibration.
( grease gun flexible tube will work too...even has the right fittings on both ends....and I have run one for a while..but the metal seems better of course. )
 
 then put  a brass fittings or whatever you need ..
so that you can keep your low rpm oil pressure switch still connected..
and put your oil pressure gauge sender there too.
 Works just fine.
the metal line has to be decent ..so vibration won't eventually cause it to crack..
not that likely ..but a concern to me for sure.
 
I used some metal brake line from a parts store.
There's a common american  size that's  "1/8th inch pipe" ..
it's super close to the metric pipe thread of the vanagon oil pressure switch.
 
the guy I learned this method from ..
will even install both oil pressure switches plus an oil press gauge sender onto a 'block manifold' there ..
at the end of the metal line from the push rod tube oil sender hole....
Then he can put an oil Temp sensor where the high rpm oil press switch was by the crankshaft pulley.
 
I always assumed that switch had to sense pressure there,
and the low rpm/low pressure one had to be by the push rods..
but he says all of them reading off the push rod tube location is good.
And he would know too.- an excellent waterboxer engine builder dude.
 
Scott
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: bergodaz
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge

 

I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall. Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.

3
In Australia we use plastic lines. (We also have a lot of blown engines.



> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> hi,
> yes.
> the way to do it is run a metal line ( with appropriate fittings on each
> end ) from the oil pressure switch
> hole between the pushrod tubes under the left side ..
> then run that metal line forward and up.....so it's on top of the engine
> block above cylinder 3 ...
> and support it against flexing and vibration.
> ( grease gun flexible tube will work too...even has the right fittings
> on both ends....and I have run one for a while..but the metal seems
> better of course. )
>
> then put a brass fittings or whatever you need ..
> so that you can keep your low rpm oil pressure switch still connected..
> and put your oil pressure gauge sender there too.
> Works just fine.
> the metal line has to be decent ..so vibration won't eventually cause it
> to crack..
> not that likely ..but a concern to me for sure.
>
> I used some metal brake line from a parts store.
> There's a common american size that's "1/8th inch pipe" ..
> it's super close to the metric pipe thread of the vanagon oil pressure
> switch.
>
> the guy I learned this method from ..
> will even install both oil pressure switches plus an oil press gauge
> sender onto a 'block manifold' there ..
> at the end of the metal line from the push rod tube oil sender hole....
> Then he can put an oil Temp sensor where the high rpm oil press switch
> was by the crankshaft pulley.
>
> I always assumed that switch had to sense pressure there,
> and the low rpm/low pressure one had to be by the push rods..
> but he says all of them reading off the push rod tube location is good.
> And he would know too.- an excellent waterboxer engine builder dude.
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bergodaz
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
>
>
>
> I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure
> which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I
> understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and
> the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the
> limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has
> anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall.
> Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
>
>
>
>
4
lol,
sure ...plastic line is commonly used for a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
well you know ..
plastic is light and cheap, and can't corrode, but deteriorates.
 
metal is more durable, if protected from corrosion and fatigue cracking.
 
speaking of corrosion ..
all the vans I see never have one thing done to them to prevent corrosion of the ..whatever, the underside, the exhaust, the suspension etc.
 Might be a lot drier where you blokes are though.
 
they're sure worth taking care of is my point !
 
And I see silly stuff..
I see multi-thousand dollar engine  installations and not 2 minutes spend on any form of preservation or rust repair and treatment, or minor repairs. 
 Really ..
 a bloke just dropped his van off after recently spending $ 800 US for some oil pressure switch checking and blue coolant and not a whole lot else that I could tell really,  at a fancy local shop.
     I decide to check the tail and running lights  before taking an after dark test drive..
I find exactly one of the 6 rear running lights working.....  !
that stuff is not hard to check or fix either.
Any shop that cared would automatically check things like that.
or the owner even.  It's not rocket science after all.
 
 there's a brilliant little book I have ..'103 Reasons Your Novel Won't Get Published and 6 reasons why it Might."
I love this author .....brilliant writer and has a book publishing company too..
Reason # 12 is 'You don't realize no one really cares.'    
 
lol. I hope that's not the case with T3 Syncro vans around the world. 
It's not even hard to take care of a car or van. Child's play really..
but evidently beyond the ken of many ......just simple little stuff too.  
 
anyway ...metal rusts, and rust is super, super easy to stop and treat and prevent permanently. 
Things that move love to be lubricated etc. etc.
Based on the many, many vans I see owners and shops don't seem to understand this all that much.
 
A far longer post than ya' all are used to I realize.
Stay cool and dry ..
or cozy, as the case may be !
 
scott
turbovans
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge

 

In Australia we use plastic lines. (We also have a lot of blown engines.

> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> hi,
> yes.
> the way to do it is run a metal line ( with appropriate fittings on each
> end ) from the oil pressure switch
> hole between the pushrod tubes under the left side ..
> then run that metal line forward and up.....so it's on top of the engine
> block above cylinder 3 ...
> and support it against flexing and vibration.
> ( grease gun flexible tube will work too...even has the right fittings
> on both ends....and I have run one for a while..but the metal seems
> better of course. )
>
> then put a brass fittings or whatever you need ..
> so that you can keep your low rpm oil pressure switch still connected..
> and put your oil pressure gauge sender there too.
> Works just fine.
> the metal line has to be decent ..so vibration won't eventually cause it
> to crack..
> not that likely ..but a concern to me for sure.
>
> I used some metal brake line from a parts store.
> There's a common american size that's "1/8th inch pipe" ..
> it's super close to the metric pipe thread of the vanagon oil pressure
> switch.
>
> the guy I learned this method from ..
> will even install both oil pressure switches plus an oil press gauge
> sender onto a 'block manifold' there ..
> at the end of the metal line from the push rod tube oil sender hole....
> Then he can put an oil Temp sensor where the high rpm oil press switch
> was by the crankshaft pulley.
>
> I always assumed that switch had to sense pressure there,
> and the low rpm/low pressure one had to be by the push rods..
> but he says all of them reading off the push rod tube location is good.
> And he would know too.- an excellent waterboxer engine builder dude.
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bergodaz
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
>
>
>
> I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure
> which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I
> understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and
> the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the
> limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has
> anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall.
> Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
>
>
>
>

5
Corrosion on the underside, the exhaust, the suspension?

The only corrosion I have seen is the front panel behind the bumper and under window rubbers. Or a collision repair.

Phill



> speaking of corrosion ..
> all the vans I see never have one thing done to them to prevent
> corrosion of the ..whatever, the underside, the exhaust, the suspension
> etc.
> Might be a lot drier where you blokes are though.
>
6
Phill,
You have to remember that overthere they have snow.  My T3 overthere was a rust bucket (is was Canadian). I had to turn my pushrod tube 180 deg and seal up all the pin holes as they had started to leak.  Never seen that over here! They rust in all kinds of places we don't see over here.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael Roberts

From: "plander@optusnet.com.au" <plander@optusnet.com.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, February 6, 2011 2:40:25 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge

 


Corrosion on the underside, the exhaust, the suspension?

The only corrosion I have seen is the front panel behind the bumper and under window rubbers. Or a collision repair.

Phill

> speaking of corrosion ..
> all the vans I see never have one thing done to them to prevent
> corrosion of the ..whatever, the underside, the exhaust, the suspension
> etc.
> Might be a lot drier where you blokes are though.
>


7
Thanks Scott, that's all I need to know to get the parts I need. Sounds like you,ve done one or two before. Cheers, Eddie.
BTW who's the WBX builder you're talking about ?
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
>
> hi,
> yes.
> the way to do it is run a metal line ( with appropriate fittings on each end ) from the oil pressure switch
> hole between the pushrod tubes under the left side ..
> then run that metal line forward and up.....so it's on top of the engine block above cylinder 3 ...
> and support it against flexing and vibration.
> ( grease gun flexible tube will work too...even has the right fittings on both ends....and I have run one for a while..but the metal seems better of course. )
>
> then put a brass fittings or whatever you need ..
> so that you can keep your low rpm oil pressure switch still connected..
> and put your oil pressure gauge sender there too.
> Works just fine.
> the metal line has to be decent ..so vibration won't eventually cause it to crack..
> not that likely ..but a concern to me for sure.
>
> I used some metal brake line from a parts store.
> There's a common american size that's "1/8th inch pipe" ..
> it's super close to the metric pipe thread of the vanagon oil pressure switch.
>
> the guy I learned this method from ..
> will even install both oil pressure switches plus an oil press gauge sender onto a 'block manifold' there ..
> at the end of the metal line from the push rod tube oil sender hole....
> Then he can put an oil Temp sensor where the high rpm oil press switch was by the crankshaft pulley.
>
> I always assumed that switch had to sense pressure there,
> and the low rpm/low pressure one had to be by the push rods..
> but he says all of them reading off the push rod tube location is good.
> And he would know too.- an excellent waterboxer engine builder dude.
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bergodaz
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
>
>
>
> I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall. Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
>
8
Scott and All,

Talking about repairs, maintenance and lubrication, I'm interested to learn from your experience working on syncros, whether you are aware or not of the presence of a pair of sacrificial double-sided bushes that should be in place on each of the two 3mm thick metal gear selector plates that are located on the very bottom end of the gear selector shaft? These plates are what move inside the under-floor gear selector metal housing and align with its two internal gear selection fittings that when engaged in turn, can select any of the 6 gear positions as a consequence of shifting the gear lever knob.

It seems to me that these two sacrificial bushes (they are a pair, both shaped differently to suit) wear down and ultimately disappear altogether over time, leaving just the two 3mm thick metal selector plates thereafter to do the job of gear selecting into what ends up as being 2 x approx. 12mm wide receiver spaces. Meaning each gear position engagement ends up as direct metal to metal contact surfaces, hence increasing the risk of the mating metal surfaces wearing, offset only by the use of liberal CV joint type grease to these contact surfaces. With the absence of the bushes, these 3mm selector plates can then "swim around" in the 12mm wide slack space during gear selection, this translates at the gear selector knob as a sideways sloppy and vague gear selection feel. To understand what I mean, just select any/all gears in turn at the gear lever knob, then try wobbling the gear lever sideways at each position. If there is found to be excessive sideways movement (wobble), then this demonstrates the total disappearance or else badly worn down bushes on the very bottom end of the two gear selector plates.

The mystery for me is I can find no information at all for this pair of sacrificial (wearing/buffer) bushes in ETKA nor elsewhere. All that has ever been suggested to me in the past is that these bushes have long been NLA, hence so far having to live with a sloppy/vague gear change movement.

If you can shed some light on this, perhaps even original part numbers, schematic diagrams or pics of these parts, source of original replacement parts and/or details/sourcing of substitute parts etc., I and no doubt others here would much appreciate your knowledge/advice on this topic. Further info from any other member as well would also be appreciated.

Cheers.

Ken  

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2011 19:19:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge

 

lol,
sure ...plastic line is commonly used for a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
well you know ..
plastic is light and cheap, and can't corrode, but deteriorates.
 
metal is more durable, if protected from corrosion and fatigue cracking.
 
speaking of corrosion ..
all the vans I see never have one thing done to them to prevent corrosion of the ..whatever, the underside, the exhaust, the suspension etc.
 Might be a lot drier where you blokes are though.
 
they're sure worth taking care of is my point !
 
And I see silly stuff..
I see multi-thousand dollar engine  installations and not 2 minutes spend on any form of preservation or rust repair and treatment, or minor repairs. 
 Really ..
 a bloke just dropped his van off after recently spending $ 800 US for some oil pressure switch checking and blue coolant and not a whole lot else that I could tell really,  at a fancy local shop.
     I decide to check the tail and running lights  before taking an after dark test drive..
I find exactly one of the 6 rear running lights working.....  !
that stuff is not hard to check or fix either.
Any shop that cared would automatically check things like that.
or the owner even.  It's not rocket science after all.
 
 there's a brilliant little book I have ..'103 Reasons Your Novel Won't Get Published and 6 reasons why it Might."
I love this author .....brilliant writer and has a book publishing company too..
Reason # 12 is 'You don't realize no one really cares.'    
 
lol. I hope that's not the case with T3 Syncro vans around the world. 
It's not even hard to take care of a car or van. Child's play really..
but evidently beyond the ken of many ......just simple little stuff too.  
 
anyway ...metal rusts, and rust is super, super easy to stop and treat and prevent permanently. 
Things that move love to be lubricated etc. etc.
Based on the many, many vans I see owners and shops don't seem to understand this all that much.
 
A far longer post than ya' all are used to I realize.
Stay cool and dry ..
or cozy, as the case may be !
 
scott
turbovans
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge

 
In Australia we use plastic lines. (We also have a lot of blown engines.

> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> hi,
> yes.
> the way to do it is run a metal line ( with appropriate fittings on each
> end ) from the oil pressure switch
> hole between the pushrod tubes under the left side ..
> then run that metal line forward and up.....so it's on top of the engine
> block above cylinder 3 ...
> and support it against flexing and vibration.
> ( grease gun flexible tube will work too...even has the right fittings
> on both ends....and I have run one for a while..but the metal seems
> better of course. )
>
> then put a brass fittings or whatever you need ..
> so that you can keep your low rpm oil pressure switch still connected..
> and put your oil pressure gauge sender there too.
> Works just fine.
> the metal line has to be decent ..so vibration won't eventually cause it
> to crack..
> not that likely ..but a concern to me for sure.
>
> I used some metal brake line from a parts store.
> There's a common american size that's "1/8th inch pipe" ..
> it's super close to the metric pipe thread of the vanagon oil pressure
> switch.
>
> the guy I learned this method from ..
> will even install both oil pressure switches plus an oil press gauge
> sender onto a 'block manifold' there ..
> at the end of the metal line from the push rod tube oil sender hole....
> Then he can put an oil Temp sensor where the high rpm oil press switch
> was by the crankshaft pulley.
>
> I always assumed that switch had to sense pressure there,
> and the low rpm/low pressure one had to be by the push rods..
> but he says all of them reading off the push rod tube location is good.
> And he would know too.- an excellent waterboxer engine builder dude.
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bergodaz
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
>
>
>
> I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure
> which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I
> understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and
> the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the
> limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has
> anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall.
> Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
>
>
>
>


9
Ken,

Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.

Cheers.

Theo
10
Theo,
Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.
My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all   ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.

Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.

With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.

So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 
Ken,

Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.

Cheers.

Theo
11
Ken, these two kits listed on the GW page seem to be all you can buy, front and rear, neither look like they include anything to address the wear you mention.


I bought the top kit a while ago but have yet to try to fit it. I imagine the selectors in my bus may be worn in a similar way.

I'm following this thread with great interest!

Gary Cookson


On 07/02/2011, at 11:24 AM, Ken Garratt wrote:

 

Theo,

Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.
My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all   ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.

Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.

With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.

So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 
Ken,

Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.

Cheers.

Theo


12

Hi Ken

The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed.  I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.

Regards

Yurik

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

 

Theo,

Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.

My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all   ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.

 

Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.

 

With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.

 

So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!

 

Cheers.

 

Ken

 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

Ken,

Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.

Cheers.

Theo

13

That won’t open for anyone who hasn’t got Microsoft Publisher so I have copied it as a JPEG image:

 

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Yurik Orlowsky
Sent: 07 February 2011 14:34
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

 

Hi Ken

The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed.  I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.

Regards

Yurik

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

 

Theo,

Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.

My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all   ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.

 

Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.

 

With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.

 

So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!

 

Cheers.

 

Ken

 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

Ken,

Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same probl em here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.

Cheers.

Theo

14

Thanks Les – good to have such a sharp moderator.

Yurik

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les Harris
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 11:42 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

 

That won’t open for anyone who hasn’t got Microsoft Publisher so I have copied it as a JPEG image:

 

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Yurik Orlowsky
Sent: 07 February 2011 14:34
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

 

Hi Ken

The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed.  I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.

Regards

Yurik

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

 

Theo,

Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.

My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all   ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.

 

Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.

 

With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.

 

So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!

 

Cheers.

 

Ken

 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

Ken,

Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same probl em here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.

Cheers.

Theo

15
I lucked upon the last one of these in VW's inventory in the US sometime ago. A fellow enthusiast named Rennie Wible forewarned me that they appeared to be going out of inventory. I bought one as a spare.

Others in the US have used pieces of nylon from solid countertops such as Corian (brand). 

I have to say that it is ridiculous that VW did not make those plastic pieces replaceable. 


BenT

On Feb 6, 2011, at 7:34 PM, "Yurik Orlowsky" <yuriko@iinet.net.au> wrote:

Hi Ken

The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed.  I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.

Regards

Yurik

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

 

Theo,

Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.

My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all   ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.

 

Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.

 

With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.

 

So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!

 

Cheers.

 

Ken

 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

Ken,

Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.

Cheers.

Theo

<NylonBush.pub>
16
Yurik,

I like to copy what you have done.
I assume you have seen my picture of the selector shaft. One side is
worn down to the bare metal. Would that be the size of the finger or
is some metal also worn away? Are both metal fingers of the same
height? How high is the nylon block?
I hope you can help me with my queries.

Thanks,
Theo
17
Yurik,

Thanks for your valued and timely input to this topic, I'm unaware this particular issue has ever been raised before on this forum, so not before time then eh.

Regrettably I don't have the precision machinery to accurately fabricate these bushes, however with what tools I do have, I have already produced and installed a pair of working prototype bushes. I can only concur with you, the precision improvement of the gear changing they provide, even with these prototypes, is quite remarkable and very much worth the time and effort.

My prior purpose in producing the prototypes was to establish the dimensions and shapes of each bush. Having now made, installed and tested these prototypes, I've reached the conclusion that the two bushes are dissimilar both in dimension and shape, which in my view is consistent with the dissimilar stop/guides they each interface with on the inside of the metal gear selector housing.

I find that the bush schematic you provided is a good representation of the bush to suit the 3rd-4th gear stop/guide. Contrarily, the bush I have made to suit the G-Reverse-1st-2nd and safety G-Reverse lockout is different in terms of dimension and shape. However, I concede that I wouldn't be at all surprised to find that during my  fabrication of the next version of these bushes and utilising a more durable bush material, the final dimensions and shapes may well change further .... all part of R&D I guess, given I started with nothing and came up with what I did. If you have any further comment on the detail of these bushes that may help me in the fabrication of the next pair of bushes, then I'd very much appreciate it. Thank you.

Heh we may have to patent these! ..... haha

Cheers Yurik.

Ken   

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: yuriko@iinet.net.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 11:34:04 +0800
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

Hi Ken

The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed.  I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.

Regards

Yurik

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

 

Theo,

Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.

My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all   ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.

 

Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.

 

With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.

 

So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!

 

Cheers.

 

Ken

 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

Ken,

Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.

Cheers.

Theo


18
In case someone is curious how shiftrod looks when they are unworn and undamaged, I've attached some pics of my spare. Also adding a link below for those who have trouble viewing attachments.
BenT
19

Hi Theo,

When I manufactured these nylon bushes it was experimental and I did not document many details. But generally the fingers need to be covered by 3mm of nylon top and sides. The remnants on your selector shaft should give you an idea. I don’t think your metal selectors forks have worn much.  There is a post today from BenT  with some good photos of a new shaft showing what the  bushes should look like. Let me know if you need any other information.

All the best with the project.

Yurik

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Theo Weiss
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 7:18 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector

 

 

Yurik,

I like to copy what you have done.
I assume you have seen my picture of the selector shaft. One side is
worn down to the bare metal. Would that be the size of the finger or
is some metal also worn away? Are both metal fingers of the same
height? How high is the nylon block?
I hope you can help me with my queries.

Thanks,
Theo

20
On Wed, Feb 9, 2011 at 6:04 PM, Yurik Orlowsky <yuriko@iinet.net.au> wrote:


Hi Theo,

When I manufactured these nylon bushes it was experimental and I did not document many details. But generally the fingers need to be covered by 3mm of nylon top and sides. The remnants on your selector shaft should give you an idea. I don’t think your metal selectors forks have worn much. There is a post today from BenT with some good photos of a new shaft showing what the bushes should look like. Let me know if you need any other information.

All the best with the project.

Yurik




Yurik,

I can take measurements on these things if someone needed me to. I didn't include any simply because I could not find my calipers. Will take a trip to our local discount tool place and pick one up over the weekend if anyone is still wanting more exact specs.


Regards,

BenT