----- Original Message -----From: bergodazSent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PMSubject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gaugeI'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall. Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> hi,
> yes.
> the way to do it is run a metal line ( with appropriate fittings on each
> end ) from the oil pressure switch
> hole between the pushrod tubes under the left side ..
> then run that metal line forward and up.....so it's on top of the engine
> block above cylinder 3 ...
> and support it against flexing and vibration.
> ( grease gun flexible tube will work too...even has the right fittings
> on both ends....and I have run one for a while..but the metal seems
> better of course. )
>
> then put a brass fittings or whatever you need ..
> so that you can keep your low rpm oil pressure switch still connected..
> and put your oil pressure gauge sender there too.
> Works just fine.
> the metal line has to be decent ..so vibration won't eventually cause it
> to crack..
> not that likely ..but a concern to me for sure.
>
> I used some metal brake line from a parts store.
> There's a common american size that's "1/8th inch pipe" ..
> it's super close to the metric pipe thread of the vanagon oil pressure
> switch.
>
> the guy I learned this method from ..
> will even install both oil pressure switches plus an oil press gauge
> sender onto a 'block manifold' there ..
> at the end of the metal line from the push rod tube oil sender hole....
> Then he can put an oil Temp sensor where the high rpm oil press switch
> was by the crankshaft pulley.
>
> I always assumed that switch had to sense pressure there,
> and the low rpm/low pressure one had to be by the push rods..
> but he says all of them reading off the push rod tube location is good.
> And he would know too.- an excellent waterboxer engine builder dude.
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bergodaz
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
>
>
>
> I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure
> which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I
> understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and
> the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the
> limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has
> anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall.
> Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
>
>
>
>
----- Original Message -----From: plander@optusnet.com.auSent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 7:05 PMSubject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gaugeIn Australia we use plastic lines. (We also have a lot of blown engines.
> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> hi,
> yes.
> the way to do it is run a metal line ( with appropriate fittings on each
> end ) from the oil pressure switch
> hole between the pushrod tubes under the left side ..
> then run that metal line forward and up.....so it's on top of the engine
> block above cylinder 3 ...
> and support it against flexing and vibration.
> ( grease gun flexible tube will work too...even has the right fittings
> on both ends....and I have run one for a while..but the metal seems
> better of course. )
>
> then put a brass fittings or whatever you need ..
> so that you can keep your low rpm oil pressure switch still connected..
> and put your oil pressure gauge sender there too.
> Works just fine.
> the metal line has to be decent ..so vibration won't eventually cause it
> to crack..
> not that likely ..but a concern to me for sure.
>
> I used some metal brake line from a parts store.
> There's a common american size that's "1/8th inch pipe" ..
> it's super close to the metric pipe thread of the vanagon oil pressure
> switch.
>
> the guy I learned this method from ..
> will even install both oil pressure switches plus an oil press gauge
> sender onto a 'block manifold' there ..
> at the end of the metal line from the push rod tube oil sender hole....
> Then he can put an oil Temp sensor where the high rpm oil press switch
> was by the crankshaft pulley.
>
> I always assumed that switch had to sense pressure there,
> and the low rpm/low pressure one had to be by the push rods..
> but he says all of them reading off the push rod tube location is good.
> And he would know too.- an excellent waterboxer engine builder dude.
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bergodaz
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
>
>
>
> I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure
> which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I
> understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and
> the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the
> limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has
> anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall.
> Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
>
>
>
>
The only corrosion I have seen is the front panel behind the bumper and under window rubbers. Or a collision repair.
Phill
> speaking of corrosion ..
> all the vans I see never have one thing done to them to prevent
> corrosion of the ..whatever, the underside, the exhaust, the suspension
> etc.
> Might be a lot drier where you blokes are though.
>
From: "plander@optusnet.com.au" <plander@optusnet.com.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, February 6, 2011 2:40:25 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
Corrosion on the underside, the exhaust, the suspension?
The only corrosion I have seen is the front panel behind the bumper and under window rubbers. Or a collision repair.
Phill
> speaking of corrosion ..
> all the vans I see never have one thing done to them to prevent
> corrosion of the ..whatever, the underside, the exhaust, the suspension
> etc.
> Might be a lot drier where you blokes are though.
>
BTW who's the WBX builder you're talking about ?
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
>
> hi,
> yes.
> the way to do it is run a metal line ( with appropriate fittings on each end ) from the oil pressure switch
> hole between the pushrod tubes under the left side ..
> then run that metal line forward and up.....so it's on top of the engine block above cylinder 3 ...
> and support it against flexing and vibration.
> ( grease gun flexible tube will work too...even has the right fittings on both ends....and I have run one for a while..but the metal seems better of course. )
>
> then put a brass fittings or whatever you need ..
> so that you can keep your low rpm oil pressure switch still connected..
> and put your oil pressure gauge sender there too.
> Works just fine.
> the metal line has to be decent ..so vibration won't eventually cause it to crack..
> not that likely ..but a concern to me for sure.
>
> I used some metal brake line from a parts store.
> There's a common american size that's "1/8th inch pipe" ..
> it's super close to the metric pipe thread of the vanagon oil pressure switch.
>
> the guy I learned this method from ..
> will even install both oil pressure switches plus an oil press gauge sender onto a 'block manifold' there ..
> at the end of the metal line from the push rod tube oil sender hole....
> Then he can put an oil Temp sensor where the high rpm oil press switch was by the crankshaft pulley.
>
> I always assumed that switch had to sense pressure there,
> and the low rpm/low pressure one had to be by the push rods..
> but he says all of them reading off the push rod tube location is good.
> And he would know too.- an excellent waterboxer engine builder dude.
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bergodaz
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
>
>
>
> I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall. Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2011 19:19:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
----- Original Message -----From: plander@optusnet.com.auSent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 7:05 PMSubject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gaugeIn Australia we use plastic lines. (We also have a lot of blown engines.
> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> hi,
> yes.
> the way to do it is run a metal line ( with appropriate fittings on each
> end ) from the oil pressure switch
> hole between the pushrod tubes under the left side ..
> then run that metal line forward and up.....so it's on top of the engine
> block above cylinder 3 ...
> and support it against flexing and vibration.
> ( grease gun flexible tube will work too...even has the right fittings
> on both ends....and I have run one for a while..but the metal seems
> better of course. )
>
> then put a brass fittings or whatever you need ..
> so that you can keep your low rpm oil pressure switch still connected..
> and put your oil pressure gauge sender there too.
> Works just fine.
> the metal line has to be decent ..so vibration won't eventually cause it
> to crack..
> not that likely ..but a concern to me for sure.
>
> I used some metal brake line from a parts store.
> There's a common american size that's "1/8th inch pipe" ..
> it's super close to the metric pipe thread of the vanagon oil pressure
> switch.
>
> the guy I learned this method from ..
> will even install both oil pressure switches plus an oil press gauge
> sender onto a 'block manifold' there ..
> at the end of the metal line from the push rod tube oil sender hole....
> Then he can put an oil Temp sensor where the high rpm oil press switch
> was by the crankshaft pulley.
>
> I always assumed that switch had to sense pressure there,
> and the low rpm/low pressure one had to be by the push rods..
> but he says all of them reading off the push rod tube location is good.
> And he would know too.- an excellent waterboxer engine builder dude.
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bergodaz
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 3:42 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure gauge
>
>
>
> I'd like to install an oil pressure gauge to my 2.1 but am not sure
> which pressure sender location to utilise for the new gauge. As I
> understand it, I need a tee piece so that both the original sender and
> the new one can screw into it. The main problem I can forsee, is the
> limited space available in order to do this. Has anyone done this or has
> anyone got any helpful hints or links to websites detailing this insall.
> Thanks Eddie Bergodaz.
>
>
>
>
Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.
Cheers.
Theo
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.
Cheers.
Theo
On 07/02/2011, at 11:24 AM, Ken Garratt wrote:Theo,
Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!Cheers.Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Ken,
Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.
Cheers.
Theo
Hi Ken
The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed. I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.
Regards
Yurik
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Theo,
Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.
My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.
Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.
With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.
So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Ken,
Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.
Cheers.
Theo
That won’t open for anyone who hasn’t got Microsoft Publisher so I have copied it as a JPEG image:
Les
From:
Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Yurik Orlowsky
Sent: 07 February 2011 14:34
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia]
RE: Gear selector
Hi Ken
The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed. I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.
Regards
Yurik
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
[mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24
AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia]
RE: Gear selector
Theo,
Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.
My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.
Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.
With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.
So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!
Cheers.
Ken
To:
Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Ken,
Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same probl em here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.
Cheers.
Theo
Thanks Les – good to have such a sharp moderator.
Yurik
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les Harris
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 11:42 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
That won’t open for anyone who hasn’t got Microsoft Publisher so I have copied it as a JPEG image:
Les
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Yurik Orlowsky
Sent: 07 February 2011 14:34
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Hi Ken
The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed. I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.
Regards
Yurik
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Theo,
Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.
My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.
Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.
With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.
So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Ken,
Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same probl em here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.
Cheers.
Theo
On Feb 6, 2011, at 7:34 PM, "Yurik Orlowsky" <yuriko@iinet.net.au> wrote:
Hi Ken
The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed. I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.
Regards
Yurik
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Theo,
Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.
My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.
Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.
With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.
So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Ken,
Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.
Cheers.
Theo
<NylonBush.pub>
I like to copy what you have done.
I assume you have seen my picture of the selector shaft. One side is
worn down to the bare metal. Would that be the size of the finger or
is some metal also worn away? Are both metal fingers of the same
height? How high is the nylon block?
I hope you can help me with my queries.
Thanks,
Theo
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: yuriko@iinet.net.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 11:34:04 +0800
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Hi Ken
The selector shaft has nylon bushes moulded onto the forks. Each finger of the fork has just one bush moulded right around the finger. So you are correct in that to renew these a complete shaft would be needed. I have actually fabricated these two bushes for my shaft. I used a nylon block and machined a slot into it and inserted this onto the finger. Making a tight fit and securing it with a countersunk screw from the inside of the fork. Only the outer faces have sliding contact. This has tightened the gear shift and is so smooth now. After 5yrs its still good. I have attached a sketch showing the setup. I agree with you that these bushes should be replaceable items available from VW.
Regards
Yurik
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 8:24 AM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Thanks a lot for your response and particularly the great pic ... bingo! This is the first time I have actually seen either/both bushes .... even ones in an advanced state of wear.
My selectors are worse than yours ... mine have no bushing left at all ... on either metal selector. Meaning mine are down to metal/metal contact so causing frictional wear AND causing a sloppy gear shift as well.
Theo, from the pic, it seems to suggest those bushes (nylon?) are factory moulded onto the metal selectors .... do you agree with that being the case? If so, this would mean the whole selector shaft would need to be replaced to get bushing happening again.
With my bare metal selectors (where you still have bushing showing), I see on mine that there already is an approx. 3mm threaded hole in place on each selector. This suggests there should be available replacement bushes available that would simply be inserted onto the selector and fastened into place with a countersunk head metal-threaded screw. Too easy.
So all this begs the question .... why aren't replacement bushes available? Every single T3 in the world still running probably need these bushes replaced .... years ago!
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 09:32:54 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Ken,
Thanks for raising this issue,as you can see same problem here. As
far as I know the plastic bit was never available as a single item.
Cheers.
Theo
Hi Theo,
When I manufactured these nylon bushes it was experimental and I did not document many details. But generally the fingers need to be covered by 3mm of nylon top and sides. The remnants on your selector shaft should give you an idea. I don’t think your metal selectors forks have worn much. There is a post today from BenT with some good photos of a new shaft showing what the bushes should look like. Let me know if you need any other information.
All the best with the project.
Yurik
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Theo Weiss
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2011 7:18 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RE: Gear selector
Yurik,
I like to copy what you have done.
I assume you have seen my picture of the selector shaft. One side is
worn down to the bare metal. Would that be the size of the finger or
is some metal also worn away? Are both metal fingers of the same
height? How high is the nylon block?
I hope you can help me with my queries.
Thanks,
Theo
On Wed, Feb 9, 2011 at 6:04 PM, Yurik Orlowsky <yuriko@iinet.net.au> wrote:
Hi Theo,
When I manufactured these nylon bushes it was experimental and I did not document many details. But generally the fingers need to be covered by 3mm of nylon top and sides. The remnants on your selector shaft should give you an idea. I don’t think your metal selectors forks have worn much. There is a post today from BenT with some good photos of a new shaft showing what the bushes should look like. Let me know if you need any other information.
All the best with the project.
Yurik
Yurik,I can take measurements on these things if someone needed me to. I didn't include any simply because I could not find my calipers. Will take a trip to our local discount tool place and pick one up over the weekend if anyone is still wanting more exact specs.Regards,BenT