Hello I spoke to Richard at Tooleys today about a new radiator. The part number he quoted was 068.121.253DG. (He did confirm that it used to be E at the end). The BEHR part No is 8MK 376713631.
Has anyone had an experience with this new number and confirm we are on the right track before I purchase and freight it to WA. Thanks Greg N
On 30 Aug 2016, at 8:15 pm, Greg Esposito gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
That is not a valid part number that I know of. I believe dg is the engine code for a 1.9l. I would stay well clear unless someone you trust is eyeballing and measuring core thickness.
From: "greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 30 August 2016, 19:00
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator
Hello I spoke to Richard at Tooleys today about a new radiator. The part number he quoted was 068.121.253DG. (He did confirm that it used to be E at the end). The BEHR part No is 8MK 376713631.
Has anyone had an experience with this new number and confirm we are on the right track before I purchase and freight it to WA. Thanks Greg N
Ask for a couple of good photo's, it's easy to pick the difference. (see link at bottom, part number seems correct for the T3)
Read through links below, the Thermex branded radiator that was installed in mine some time ago supposedly came from Tooleys. It's a good radiator and a good brand, but it was the colder climate spec. I never noticed any issues until I was in the hills on a 45degC day fully loaded with camping gear. Was the only time I ever saw the temp gauge higher than normal, but in hind sight the fan was coming on a lot more than normal.
Sorry, there is not part number on that radiator. I ended up getting a Behr from the USA, so this one is in the garage as a spare.
On 30 Aug 2016, at 10:14 PM, Hartmut Kiehn hartis@live.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
In regard to the radiator, wouldnt it be nice to know who made the comment ?Hart
Sent from my iPad
On 30 Aug 2016, at 8:15 pm, Greg Esposito gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
That is not a valid part number that I know of. I believe dg is the engine code for a 1.9l. I would stay well clear unless someone you trust is eyeballing and measuring core thickness.
From: "greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 30 August 2016, 19:00
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator
Hello I spoke to Richard at Tooleys today about a new radiator. The part number he quoted was 068.121.253DG. (He did confirm that it used to be E at the end). The BEHR part No is 8MK 376713631.
Has anyone had an experience with this new number and confirm we are on the right track before I purchase and freight it to WA. Thanks Greg N
Hi ALL,
This topic never fails to confuse most of us, not helped by Just Kampers and Tooleys questionable offerings.
JKs ... is a very poor joke at 30mm core thickness, in fact this radiator ought only be sold in cold climate markets elsewhere:
From memory, someone here, possibly Scott, had to return one to JKs upon discovering its "thinness".
Tooleys ... BEHR part no. 8MK 376 713 631, the model quite a few of us have purchased, has a core thickness approx. 40mm.
My old VW OEM stamped radiator 068 121 253 E that I took out, has a core thickness of 48mm.
Along with installing the BEHR radiator, I took the opportunity to fit a replacement baffle set:
http://www.gowesty.com/search-results.php?search_phrase=radiator+baffles
Also fitted a new radiator temperature switch. Bit sus though, think it was Chinese. Tested it first, found to be in working range.
Also fitted a sponge strip on the horizontal top of the radiator, similar idea as shown in ETKA parts catalogue schematic.
Observations: OEM vs BEHR.
OEM core is around 8mm thicker than the BEHR. Big OEM tick.
OEM quality of core construction is clearly superior than the BEHR. The core's coolant flow tubes look stronger and with larger volume and the separation foils are way way more robust. Big OEM tick.
The BEHR is an exact replacement fit for the space. Big tick.
Located vertically midway on both sides of the OEM is a metal bump strip to protect the core when fitting/removing the radiator. These are missing from the BEHR. I relocated them to the BEHR.
Fitting the GoWesty baffle set was a good idea, especially given two originals were missing! Obviously because when the Prestige A/C system was installed, they removed one vertical baffle that otherwise would be in the way of the A/C pipe reticulation they installed!
With a bit of thought, patience and experimentation, I successfully modified the baffle just enough so it again fitted quite well in the available space, despite the interference of the A/C pipework.
Prior to installing the BEHR, the OEM tended to run hot, especially when waiting at traffic lights, this scenario with 50-50% G12+ coolant and distilled water.
After installing the BEHR with same coolant mix, plus with full baffle set installed, the temp gauge is now reading too cold. If this persists through upcoming summer heat trial, then I'll drop back to a 40-60% mix.
So in conclusion, I really can't say for sure which of the components contributed most to the change in the temp gauge reading. Radiator? Baffles? Both? Winter temperature? But clearly, the removed old OEM radiator is a clear winner in terms of build quality and core thickness. But then again, the BEHR seems so far to be doing the cooling job well.
The other thought in hindsight was to instead, have the old OEM professionally cleaned and tested and if OK, try a refit and trial. Maybe too fiddly though.
I'm keeping the OEM for now, if anyone wants more info about it, let me know.
Cheers.
Ken
Be careful ordering a radiator from Tooley's. I ordered one after asking the specs to see if it was the thin or the thick one. He read the part number and specs from their catalogue instead of the radiator itself. When it arrived it was the thin one which is the same as Just Kampers sells for $100 less. It was a drama to get my money back.
Hi Roger,
Happy you clarified that! If its 45mm as you say, then much closer to original spec. Hard to double check once its in.
Cheers.
Ken
Hi Ken, that mirrors my experiences (well except my original was cooling fine, it was suspected it had a leak, which it didn't, so I have it as a spare)
When you measure the core, what are you actually measuring? The Thermex one I have, the core was 30mm, but the tubes were ~12mm diameter and round, so not only were there fewer tubes, the surface area is also much smaller.
Richard
Hi ALL,
This topic never fails to confuse most of us, not helped by Just Kampers and Tooleys questionable offerings.
JKs ... is a very poor joke at 30mm core thickness, in fact this radiator ought only be sold in cold climate markets elsewhere:
From memory, someone here, possibly Scott, had to return one to JKs upon discovering its "thinness".
Tooleys ... BEHR part no. 8MK 376 713 631, the model quite a few of us have purchased, has a core thickness approx. 40mm.
My old VW OEM stamped radiator 068 121 253 E that I took out, has a core thickness of 48mm.
Along with installing the BEHR radiator, I took the opportunity to fit a replacement baffle set:
http://www.gowesty.com/search-results.php?search_phrase=radiator+baffles
Also fitted a new radiator temperature switch. Bit sus though, think it was Chinese. Tested it first, found to be in working range.
Also fitted a sponge strip on the horizontal top of the radiator, similar idea as shown in ETKA parts catalogue schematic.
Observations: OEM vs BEHR.
OEM core is around 8mm thicker than the BEHR. Big OEM tick.
OEM quality of core construction is clearly superior than the BEHR. The core's coolant flow tubes look stronger and with larger volume and the separation foils are way way more robust. Big OEM tick.
The BEHR is an exact replacement fit for the space. Big tick.
Located vertically midway on both sides of the OEM is a metal bump strip to protect the core when fitting/removing the radiator. These are missing from the BEHR. I relocated them to the BEHR.
Fitting the GoWesty baffle set was a good idea, especially given two originals were missing! Obviously because when the Prestige A/C system was installed, they removed one vertical baffle that otherwise would be in the way of the A/C pipe reticulation they installed!
With a bit of thought, patience and experimentation, I successfully modified the baffle just enough so it again fitted quite well in the available space, despite the interference of the A/C pipework.
Prior to installing the BEHR, the OEM tended to run hot, especially when waiting at traffic lights, this scenario with 50-50% G12+ coolant and distilled water.
After installing the BEHR with same coolant mix, plus with full baffle set installed, the temp gauge is now reading too cold. If this persists through upcoming summer heat trial, then I'll drop back to a 40-60% mix.
So in conclusion, I really can't say for sure which of the components contributed most to the change in the temp gauge reading. Radiator? Baffles? Both? Winter temperature? But clearly, the removed old OEM radiator is a clear winner in terms of build quality and core thickness. But then again, the BEHR seems so far to be doing the cooling job well.
The other thought in hindsight was to instead, have the old OEM professionally cleaned and tested and if OK, try a refit and trial. Maybe too fiddly though.
I'm keeping the OEM for now, if anyone wants more info about it, let me know.
Cheers.
Ken
Be careful ordering a radiator from Tooley's. I ordered one after asking the specs to see if it was the thin or the thick one. He read the part number and specs from their catalogue instead of the radiator itself. When it arrived it was the thin one which is the same as Just Kampers sells for $100 less. It was a drama to get my money back.
On 1 September 2016 at 00:09, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Hi Ken, that mirrors my experiences (well except my original was cooling fine, it was suspected it had a leak, which it didn't, so I have it as a spare)
When you measure the core, what are you actually measuring? The Thermex one I have, the core was 30mm, but the tubes were ~12mm diameter and round, so not only were there fewer tubes, the surface area is also much smaller.
Richard
---In Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :Hi ALL,
This topic never fails to confuse most of us, not helped by Just Kampers and Tooleys questionable offerings.
JKs ... is a very poor joke at 30mm core thickness, in fact this radiator ought only be sold in cold climate markets elsewhere:
From memory, someone here, possibly Scott, had to return one to JKs upon discovering its "thinness".
Tooleys ... BEHR part no. 8MK 376 713 631, the model quite a few of us have purchased, has a core thickness approx. 40mm.
My old VW OEM stamped radiator 068 121 253 E that I took out, has a core thickness of 48mm.
Along with installing the BEHR radiator, I took the opportunity to fit a replacement baffle set:
http://www.gowesty.com/search- results.php?search_phrase= radiator+baffles
Also fitted a new radiator temperature switch. Bit sus though, think it was Chinese. Tested it first, found to be in working range.
Also fitted a sponge strip on the horizontal top of the radiator, similar idea as shown in ETKA parts catalogue schematic.
Observations: OEM vs BEHR.
OEM core is around 8mm thicker than the BEHR. Big OEM tick.
OEM quality of core construction is clearly superior than the BEHR. The core's coolant flow tubes look stronger and with larger volume and the separation foils are way way more robust. Big OEM tick.
The BEHR is an exact replacement fit for the space. Big tick.
Located vertically midway on both sides of the OEM is a metal bump strip to protect the core when fitting/removing the radiator. These are missing from the BEHR. I relocated them to the BEHR.
Fitting the GoWesty baffle set was a good idea, especially given two originals were missing! Obviously because when the Prestige A/C system was installed, they removed one vertical baffle that otherwise would be in the way of the A/C pipe reticulation they installed!
With a bit of thought, patience and experimentation, I successfully modified the baffle just enough so it again fitted quite well in the available space, despite the interference of the A/C pipework.
Prior to installing the BEHR, the OEM tended to run hot, especially when waiting at traffic lights, this scenario with 50-50% G12+ coolant and distilled water.
After installing the BEHR with same coolant mix, plus with full baffle set installed, the temp gauge is now reading too cold. If this persists through upcoming summer heat trial, then I'll drop back to a 40-60% mix.
So in conclusion, I really can't say for sure which of the components contributed most to the change in the temp gauge reading. Radiator? Baffles? Both? Winter temperature? But clearly, the removed old OEM radiator is a clear winner in terms of build quality and core thickness. But then again, the BEHR seems so far to be doing the cooling job well.
The other thought in hindsight was to instead, have the old OEM professionally cleaned and tested and if OK, try a refit and trial. Maybe too fiddly though.
I'm keeping the OEM for now, if anyone wants more info about it, let me know.
Cheers.
Ken
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com> on behalf of plander@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 31 August 2016 6:04 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RadiatorBe careful ordering a radiator from Tooley's. I ordered one after asking the specs to see if it was the thin or the thick one. He read the part number and specs from their catalogue instead of the radiator itself. When it arrived it was the thin one which is the same as Just Kampers sells for $100 less. It was a drama to get my money back.
Hi Jon,
Like the rest of us, we all would have quoted 068 121 253E at time of enquiry with supplier.
Only to end up getting an 068 121 253DG. Hence the confusion. At best there would have been a printed sticker with that DG number on the outside of the cardboard carton only. Whereas the BEHR number was on a sticker on the radiator. If you still have the carton, check it out.
Cheers.
Ken
Hi Ken, that mirrors my experiences (well except my original was cooling fine, it was suspected it had a leak, which it didn't, so I have it as a spare)
When you measure the core, what are you actually measuring? The Thermex one I have, the core was 30mm, but the tubes were ~12mm diameter and round, so not only were there fewer tubes, the surface area is also much smaller.
Richard
---In Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :
Hi ALL,
This topic never fails to confuse most of us, not helped by Just Kampers and Tooleys questionable offerings.
JKs ... is a very poor joke at 30mm core thickness, in fact this radiator ought only be sold in cold climate markets elsewhere:
From memory, someone here, possibly Scott, had to return one to JKs upon discovering its "thinness".
Tooleys ... BEHR part no. 8MK 376 713 631, the model quite a few of us have purchased, has a core thickness approx. 40mm.
My old VW OEM stamped radiator 068 121 253 E that I took out, has a core thickness of 48mm.
Along with installing the BEHR radiator, I took the opportunity to fit a replacement baffle set:
http://www.gowesty.com/search- results.php?search_phrase= radiator+baffles
Also fitted a new radiator temperature switch. Bit sus though, think it was Chinese. Tested it first, found to be in working range.
Also fitted a sponge strip on the horizontal top of the radiator, similar idea as shown in ETKA parts catalogue schematic.
Observations: OEM vs BEHR.
OEM core is around 8mm thicker than the BEHR. Big OEM tick.
OEM quality of core construction is clearly superior than the BEHR. The core's coolant flow tubes look stronger and with larger volume and the separation foils are way way more robust. Big OEM tick.
The BEHR is an exact replacement fit for the space. Big tick.
Located vertically midway on both sides of the OEM is a metal bump strip to protect the core when fitting/removing the radiator. These are missing from the BEHR. I relocated them to the BEHR.
Fitting the GoWesty baffle set was a good idea, especially given two originals were missing! Obviously because when the Prestige A/C system was installed, they removed one vertical baffle that otherwise would be in the way of the A/C pipe reticulation they installed!
With a bit of thought, patience and experimentation, I successfully modified the baffle just enough so it again fitted quite well in the available space, despite the interference of the A/C pipework.
Prior to installing the BEHR, the OEM tended to run hot, especially when waiting at traffic lights, this scenario with 50-50% G12+ coolant and distilled water.
After installing the BEHR with same coolant mix, plus with full baffle set installed, the temp gauge is now reading too cold. If this persists through upcoming summer heat trial, then I'll drop back to a 40-60% mix.
So in conclusion, I really can't say for sure which of the components contributed most to the change in the temp gauge reading. Radiator? Baffles? Both? Winter temperature? But clearly, the removed old OEM radiator is a clear winner in terms of build quality and core thickness. But then again, the BEHR seems so far to be doing the cooling job well.
The other thought in hindsight was to instead, have the old OEM professionally cleaned and tested and if OK, try a refit and trial. Maybe too fiddly though.
I'm keeping the OEM for now, if anyone wants more info about it, let me know.
Cheers.
Ken
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com> on behalf of plander@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 31 August 2016 6:04 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RadiatorBe careful ordering a radiator from Tooley's. I ordered one after asking the specs to see if it was the thin or the thick one. He read the part number and specs from their catalogue instead of the radiator itself. When it arrived it was the thin one which is the same as Just Kampers sells for $100 less. It was a drama to get my money back.
Richard, I've never seen or heard of your radiator being used in an OZ T3, so may not meet required specs. It sounds to me like its volume and surface area is inadequate, you may have a problem running at correct temperature, usually midway or a tad less on temp gauge.
Both the OEM (48mm) and BEHR (40-45mm) radiator overall core width equates to the width of the coolant tubing. Except the tubing is shaped like a series of flattened circles, running horizontally, each separated by about say 12mm.
From memory, there is a difference between those two brands by about a factor of one as to the number of horizontal tubes.
Maybe your old original radiator, flushed and tested professionally, might be the better solution.
Ken
Hi Ken, that mirrors my experiences (well except my original was cooling fine, it was suspected it had a leak, which it didn't, so I have it as a spare)
When you measure the core, what are you actually measuring? The Thermex one I have, the core was 30mm, but the tubes were ~12mm diameter and round, so not only were there fewer tubes, the surface area is also much smaller.
Richard
Hi ALL,
This topic never fails to confuse most of us, not helped by Just Kampers and Tooleys questionable offerings.
JKs ... is a very poor joke at 30mm core thickness, in fact this radiator ought only be sold in cold climate markets elsewhere:
|
www.justkampers.com.au
Radiator VW T25 Petrol and Diesel Models 1983–1992 . JK Part Number: J13629 OEM Part Number: 068-121-068/BC
|
From memory, someone here, possibly Scott, had to return one to JKs upon discovering its "thinness".
Tooleys ... BEHR part no. 8MK 376 713 631, the model quite a few of us have purchased, has a core thickness approx. 40mm.
My old VW OEM stamped radiator 068 121 253 E that I took out, has a core thickness of 48mm.
Along with installing the BEHR radiator, I took the opportunity to fit a replacement baffle set:
http://www.gowesty.com/search-results.php?search_phrase=radiator+baffles
Also fitted a new radiator temperature switch. Bit sus though, think it was Chinese. Tested it first, found to be in working range.
Also fitted a sponge strip on the horizontal top of the radiator, similar idea as shown in ETKA parts catalogue schematic.
Observations: OEM vs BEHR.
OEM core is around 8mm thicker than the BEHR. Big OEM tick.
OEM quality of core construction is clearly superior than the BEHR. The core's coolant flow tubes look stronger and with larger volume and the separation foils are way way more robust. Big OEM tick.
The BEHR is an exact replacement fit for the space. Big tick.
Located vertically midway on both sides of the OEM is a metal bump strip to protect the core when fitting/removing the radiator. These are missing from the BEHR. I relocated them to the BEHR.
Fitting the GoWesty baffle set was a good idea, especially given two originals were missing! Obviously because when the Prestige A/C system was installed, they removed one vertical baffle that otherwise would be in the way of the A/C pipe reticulation they installed!
With a bit of thought, patience and experimentation, I successfully modified the baffle just enough so it again fitted quite well in the available space, despite the interference of the A/C pipework.
Prior to installing the BEHR, the OEM tended to run hot, especially when waiting at traffic lights, this scenario with 50-50% G12+ coolant and distilled water.
After installing the BEHR with same coolant mix, plus with full baffle set installed, the temp gauge is now reading too cold. If this persists through upcoming summer heat trial, then I'll drop back to a 40-60% mix.
So in conclusion, I really can't say for sure which of the components contributed most to the change in the temp gauge reading. Radiator? Baffles? Both? Winter temperature? But clearly, the removed old OEM radiator is a clear winner in terms of build quality and core thickness. But then again, the BEHR seems so far to be doing the cooling job well.
The other thought in hindsight was to instead, have the old OEM professionally cleaned and tested and if OK, try a refit and trial. Maybe too fiddly though.
I'm keeping the OEM for now, if anyone wants more info about it, let me know.
Cheers.
Ken
Be careful ordering a radiator from Tooley's. I ordered one after asking the specs to see if it was the thin or the thick one. He read the part number and specs from their catalogue instead of the radiator itself. When it arrived it was the thin one which is the same as Just Kampers sells for $100 less. It was a drama to get my money back.
Thanks Ken, I have seen that style in other bus's, and the link below for JK looks like the same one. The fin's are wide, but the tube is 'inside' the fin's, not between the fins like the flat originals (and the Behr) one.
I only had that radiator in for a few months, it was installed in July, never noticed a difference until it started to get hot day time temps in November. In reality that radiator works fine, the difference is on a warm (lets say up to ~30C) day the radiator is at it's limit for cooling (temp needle hovering just over half way), where as the "tropical" original radiator is not at it's limit. So with careful driving you could get away with it.
I have the Behr in now and is working fine, but have not had any 45C days yet.
I also agree with you, the Behr is not the quality of the original, from memory there are a two less tubes, but the tubes are not as thin as the original, and as you point out not as wide, so it definitely would have less cooling capacity. The thermex one (wrong spec one) actually looks like a good quality radiator, but I don't know if they make the correct spec one.
I'm happy to have a new radiator in, the original I guess would fail at some point in the future.
Out of interest I put a temperature probe on the top right corner of the radiator (attached to back side of the right end/tank). So it's measuring the cooled water temp. On a run up the coast on the highway, ~27C day, the temperature hovered ~40C, on the climb up to Maleny the temp rose to ~50C, and on top of the range (ambient temps much cooler) the temp dropped to ~35C. Was interesting to watch, and the thermostat must be metering flow most of the time
Keep in mind the probe was stuck to the back side of the plastic, not inside the coolant, so actual water temps were probably a little higher. I have left it there, as temps get warmer I will see what happens, and also what affect turning the AC on has.
Richard
Richard, I've never seen or heard of your radiator being used in an OZ T3, so may not meet required specs. It sounds to me like its volume and surface area is inadequate, you may have a problem running at correct temperature, usually midway or a tad less on temp gauge.
Both the OEM (48mm) and BEHR (40-45mm) radiator overall core width equates to the width of the coolant tubing. Except the tubing is shaped like a series of flattened circles, running horizontally, each separated by about say 12mm.
From memory, there is a difference between those two brands by about a factor of one as to the number of horizontal tubes.
Maybe your old original radiator, flushed and tested professionally, might be the better solution.
Ken
Hi Ken, that mirrors my experiences (well except my original was cooling fine, it was suspected it had a leak, which it didn't, so I have it as a spare)
When you measure the core, what are you actually measuring? The Thermex one I have, the core was 30mm, but the tubes were ~12mm diameter and round, so not only were there fewer tubes, the surface area is also much smaller.
Richard
Hi ALL,
This topic never fails to confuse most of us, not helped by Just Kampers and Tooleys questionable offerings.
JKs ... is a very poor joke at 30mm core thickness, in fact this radiator ought only be sold in cold climate markets elsewhere:
www.justkampers.com.au
Radiator VW T25 Petrol and Diesel Models 1983–1992 . JK Part Number: J13629 OEM Part Number: 068-121-068/BC |
From memory, someone here, possibly Scott, had to return one to JKs upon discovering its "thinness".
Tooleys ... BEHR part no. 8MK 376 713 631, the model quite a few of us have purchased, has a core thickness approx. 40mm.
My old VW OEM stamped radiator 068 121 253 E that I took out, has a core thickness of 48mm.
Along with installing the BEHR radiator, I took the opportunity to fit a replacement baffle set:
http://www.gowesty.com/search-results.php?search_phrase=radiator+baffles
Also fitted a new radiator temperature switch. Bit sus though, think it was Chinese. Tested it first, found to be in working range.
Also fitted a sponge strip on the horizontal top of the radiator, similar idea as shown in ETKA parts catalogue schematic.
Observations: OEM vs BEHR.
OEM core is around 8mm thicker than the BEHR. Big OEM tick.
OEM quality of core construction is clearly superior than the BEHR. The core's coolant flow tubes look stronger and with larger volume and the separation foils are way way more robust. Big OEM tick.
The BEHR is an exact replacement fit for the space. Big tick.
Located vertically midway on both sides of the OEM is a metal bump strip to protect the core when fitting/removing the radiator. These are missing from the BEHR. I relocated them to the BEHR.
Fitting the GoWesty baffle set was a good idea, especially given two originals were missing! Obviously because when the Prestige A/C system was installed, they removed one vertical baffle that otherwise would be in the way of the A/C pipe reticulation they installed!
With a bit of thought, patience and experimentation, I successfully modified the baffle just enough so it again fitted quite well in the available space, despite the interference of the A/C pipework.
Prior to installing the BEHR, the OEM tended to run hot, especially when waiting at traffic lights, this scenario with 50-50% G12+ coolant and distilled water.
After installing the BEHR with same coolant mix, plus with full baffle set installed, the temp gauge is now reading too cold. If this persists through upcoming summer heat trial, then I'll drop back to a 40-60% mix.
So in conclusion, I really can't say for sure which of the components contributed most to the change in the temp gauge reading. Radiator? Baffles? Both? Winter temperature? But clearly, the removed old OEM radiator is a clear winner in terms of build quality and core thickness. But then again, the BEHR seems so far to be doing the cooling job well.
The other thought in hindsight was to instead, have the old OEM professionally cleaned and tested and if OK, try a refit and trial. Maybe too fiddly though.
I'm keeping the OEM for now, if anyone wants more info about it, let me know.
Cheers.
Ken
Be careful ordering a radiator from Tooley's. I ordered one after asking the specs to see if it was the thin or the thick one. He read the part number and specs from their catalogue instead of the radiator itself. When it arrived it was the thin one which is the same as Just Kampers sells for $100 less. It was a drama to get my money back.
On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 12:09 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Hi Ken, that mirrors my experiences (well except my original was cooling fine, it was suspected it had a leak, which it didn't, so I have it as a spare)
When you measure the core, what are you actually measuring? The Thermex one I have, the core was 30mm, but the tubes were ~12mm diameter and round, so not only were there fewer tubes, the surface area is also much smaller.
Richard
---In Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :Hi ALL,
This topic never fails to confuse most of us, not helped by Just Kampers and Tooleys questionable offerings.
JKs ... is a very poor joke at 30mm core thickness, in fact this radiator ought only be sold in cold climate markets elsewhere:
From memory, someone here, possibly Scott, had to return one to JKs upon discovering its "thinness".
Tooleys ... BEHR part no. 8MK 376 713 631, the model quite a few of us have purchased, has a core thickness approx. 40mm.
My old VW OEM stamped radiator 068 121 253 E that I took out, has a core thickness of 48mm.
Along with installing the BEHR radiator, I took the opportunity to fit a replacement baffle set:
http://www.gowesty.com/search- results.php?search_phrase= radiator+baffles
Also fitted a new radiator temperature switch. Bit sus though, think it was Chinese. Tested it first, found to be in working range.
Also fitted a sponge strip on the horizontal top of the radiator, similar idea as shown in ETKA parts catalogue schematic.
Observations: OEM vs BEHR.
OEM core is around 8mm thicker than the BEHR. Big OEM tick.
OEM quality of core construction is clearly superior than the BEHR. The core's coolant flow tubes look stronger and with larger volume and the separation foils are way way more robust. Big OEM tick.
The BEHR is an exact replacement fit for the space. Big tick.
Located vertically midway on both sides of the OEM is a metal bump strip to protect the core when fitting/removing the radiator. These are missing from the BEHR. I relocated them to the BEHR.
Fitting the GoWesty baffle set was a good idea, especially given two originals were missing! Obviously because when the Prestige A/C system was installed, they removed one vertical baffle that otherwise would be in the way of the A/C pipe reticulation they installed!
With a bit of thought, patience and experimentation, I successfully modified the baffle just enough so it again fitted quite well in the available space, despite the interference of the A/C pipework.
Prior to installing the BEHR, the OEM tended to run hot, especially when waiting at traffic lights, this scenario with 50-50% G12+ coolant and distilled water.
After installing the BEHR with same coolant mix, plus with full baffle set installed, the temp gauge is now reading too cold. If this persists through upcoming summer heat trial, then I'll drop back to a 40-60% mix.
So in conclusion, I really can't say for sure which of the components contributed most to the change in the temp gauge reading. Radiator? Baffles? Both? Winter temperature? But clearly, the removed old OEM radiator is a clear winner in terms of build quality and core thickness. But then again, the BEHR seems so far to be doing the cooling job well.
The other thought in hindsight was to instead, have the old OEM professionally cleaned and tested and if OK, try a refit and trial. Maybe too fiddly though.
I'm keeping the OEM for now, if anyone wants more info about it, let me know.
Cheers.
Ken
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com> on behalf of plander@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 31 August 2016 6:04 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RadiatorBe careful ordering a radiator from Tooley's. I ordered one after asking the specs to see if it was the thin or the thick one. He read the part number and specs from their catalogue instead of the radiator itself. When it arrived it was the thin one which is the same as Just Kampers sells for $100 less. It was a drama to get my money back.
--CheersPaul DumaisAerospace Engineer
On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 11:32 PM, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Richard, I've never seen or heard of your radiator being used in an OZ T3, so may not meet required specs. It sounds to me like its volume and surface area is inadequate, you may have a problem running at correct temperature, usually midway or a tad less on temp gauge.
Both the OEM (48mm) and BEHR (40-45mm) radiator overall core width equates to the width of the coolant tubing. Except the tubing is shaped like a series of flattened circles, running horizontally, each separated by about say 12mm.
From memory, there is a difference between those two brands by about a factor of one as to the number of horizontal tubes.
Maybe your old original radiator, flushed and tested professionally, might be the better solution.
Ken
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 1 September 2016 12:09 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RadiatorHi Ken, that mirrors my experiences (well except my original was cooling fine, it was suspected it had a leak, which it didn't, so I have it as a spare)
When you measure the core, what are you actually measuring? The Thermex one I have, the core was 30mm, but the tubes were ~12mm diameter and round, so not only were there fewer tubes, the surface area is also much smaller.
Richard
---In Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :
Hi ALL,
This topic never fails to confuse most of us, not helped by Just Kampers and Tooleys questionable offerings.
JKs ... is a very poor joke at 30mm core thickness, in fact this radiator ought only be sold in cold climate markets elsewhere:
From memory, someone here, possibly Scott, had to return one to JKs upon discovering its "thinness".
Tooleys ... BEHR part no. 8MK 376 713 631, the model quite a few of us have purchased, has a core thickness approx. 40mm.
My old VW OEM stamped radiator 068 121 253 E that I took out, has a core thickness of 48mm.
Along with installing the BEHR radiator, I took the opportunity to fit a replacement baffle set:
http://www.gowesty.com/search- results.php?search_phrase= radiator+baffles
Also fitted a new radiator temperature switch. Bit sus though, think it was Chinese. Tested it first, found to be in working range.
Also fitted a sponge strip on the horizontal top of the radiator, similar idea as shown in ETKA parts catalogue schematic.
Observations: OEM vs BEHR.
OEM core is around 8mm thicker than the BEHR. Big OEM tick.
OEM quality of core construction is clearly superior than the BEHR. The core's coolant flow tubes look stronger and with larger volume and the separation foils are way way more robust. Big OEM tick.
The BEHR is an exact replacement fit for the space. Big tick.
Located vertically midway on both sides of the OEM is a metal bump strip to protect the core when fitting/removing the radiator. These are missing from the BEHR. I relocated them to the BEHR.
Fitting the GoWesty baffle set was a good idea, especially given two originals were missing! Obviously because when the Prestige A/C system was installed, they removed one vertical baffle that otherwise would be in the way of the A/C pipe reticulation they installed!
With a bit of thought, patience and experimentation, I successfully modified the baffle just enough so it again fitted quite well in the available space, despite the interference of the A/C pipework.
Prior to installing the BEHR, the OEM tended to run hot, especially when waiting at traffic lights, this scenario with 50-50% G12+ coolant and distilled water.
After installing the BEHR with same coolant mix, plus with full baffle set installed, the temp gauge is now reading too cold. If this persists through upcoming summer heat trial, then I'll drop back to a 40-60% mix.
So in conclusion, I really can't say for sure which of the components contributed most to the change in the temp gauge reading. Radiator? Baffles? Both? Winter temperature? But clearly, the removed old OEM radiator is a clear winner in terms of build quality and core thickness. But then again, the BEHR seems so far to be doing the cooling job well.
The other thought in hindsight was to instead, have the old OEM professionally cleaned and tested and if OK, try a refit and trial. Maybe too fiddly though.
I'm keeping the OEM for now, if anyone wants more info about it, let me know.
Cheers.
Ken
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com> on behalf of plander@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 31 August 2016 6:04 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RadiatorBe careful ordering a radiator from Tooley's. I ordered one after asking the specs to see if it was the thin or the thick one. He read the part number and specs from their catalogue instead of the radiator itself. When it arrived it was the thin one which is the same as Just Kampers sells for $100 less. It was a drama to get my money back.
Hi Ken, that mirrors my experiences (well except my original was cooling fine, it was suspected it had a leak, which it didn't, so I have it as a spare)
When you measure the core, what are you actually measuring? The Thermex one I have, the core was 30mm, but the tubes were ~12mm diameter and round, so not only were there fewer tubes, the surface area is also much smaller.
Richard
---In Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :
Hi ALL,
This topic never fails to confuse most of us, not helped by Just Kampers and Tooleys questionable offerings.
JKs ... is a very poor joke at 30mm core thickness, in fact this radiator ought only be sold in cold climate markets elsewhere:
From memory, someone here, possibly Scott, had to return one to JKs upon discovering its "thinness".
Tooleys ... BEHR part no. 8MK 376 713 631, the model quite a few of us have purchased, has a core thickness approx. 40mm.
My old VW OEM stamped radiator 068 121 253 E that I took out, has a core thickness of 48mm.
Along with installing the BEHR radiator, I took the opportunity to fit a replacement baffle set:
http://www.gowesty.com/search- results.php?search_phrase= radiator+baffles
Also fitted a new radiator temperature switch. Bit sus though, think it was Chinese. Tested it first, found to be in working range.
Also fitted a sponge strip on the horizontal top of the radiator, similar idea as shown in ETKA parts catalogue schematic.
Observations: OEM vs BEHR.
OEM core is around 8mm thicker than the BEHR. Big OEM tick.
OEM quality of core construction is clearly superior than the BEHR. The core's coolant flow tubes look stronger and with larger volume and the separation foils are way way more robust. Big OEM tick.
The BEHR is an exact replacement fit for the space. Big tick.
Located vertically midway on both sides of the OEM is a metal bump strip to protect the core when fitting/removing the radiator. These are missing from the BEHR. I relocated them to the BEHR.
Fitting the GoWesty baffle set was a good idea, especially given two originals were missing! Obviously because when the Prestige A/C system was installed, they removed one vertical baffle that otherwise would be in the way of the A/C pipe reticulation they installed!
With a bit of thought, patience and experimentation, I successfully modified the baffle just enough so it again fitted quite well in the available space, despite the interference of the A/C pipework.
Prior to installing the BEHR, the OEM tended to run hot, especially when waiting at traffic lights, this scenario with 50-50% G12+ coolant and distilled water.
After installing the BEHR with same coolant mix, plus with full baffle set installed, the temp gauge is now reading too cold. If this persists through upcoming summer heat trial, then I'll drop back to a 40-60% mix.
So in conclusion, I really can't say for sure which of the components contributed most to the change in the temp gauge reading. Radiator? Baffles? Both? Winter temperature? But clearly, the removed old OEM radiator is a clear winner in terms of build quality and core thickness. But then again, the BEHR seems so far to be doing the cooling job well.
The other thought in hindsight was to instead, have the old OEM professionally cleaned and tested and if OK, try a refit and trial. Maybe too fiddly though.
I'm keeping the OEM for now, if anyone wants more info about it, let me know.
Cheers.
Ken
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com> on behalf of plander@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 31 August 2016 6:04 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] RadiatorBe careful ordering a radiator from Tooley's. I ordered one after asking the specs to see if it was the thin or the thick one. He read the part number and specs from their catalogue instead of the radiator itself. When it arrived it was the thin one which is the same as Just Kampers sells for $100 less. It was a drama to get my money back.
