Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

1
This afternoon an unhappy 'clunk-clunk' noise started about 4.5km into a 5km journey from home to the office garage.

After our recent Old Bar trip, following cleaning etc, I took the vehicle back. At home there is a large grassy area and as I have done before, engaged the rear diff-lock briefly just to 'exercise' it. A shallow left turn is undertaken during the procedure and diff-lock is disengaged before leaving the grass. On this occaision the wheels did 'skip' somewhat, but not unusual.

After an uneventful 4.5km the drivetrain at the rear started to make a 'clunk-clunk' noise, which could be felt as well, and varied with road speed, independent of clutch position.

The manual (page 30) does say when rear diff-lock engaged there is a 'scrubbing effect' when cornering - leading to increased tyre wear and also to 'jerking' when the vehicle is steered, and in certain circumstances 'may even damage the drivetrain' (would imagine these circumstances are on 'metalled' road surfaces).

I can't help but think I've somehow inflicted a wound here, yet hasn't been particularly contrary at all to normal offroad operation.

Nonetheless, as there are no Syncro drivetrain specialists anywhere nearby, any clues/help/pointers as to what the problem may be would be appreciated.

Mark.
2
Mark,

Guessing CV cage broke or maybe a rear brake got dislodged. Grab ahold
of your rear axles. A broken CV should Ne relatively noticeable. If
you're lucky, it might just be the CV bolts. They have a tendency to
come loose especially when people try to tighten the bolts with a hex
(Allen wrench) instead of the appropriate XZN (aka triple square) tool.

Good luck,

BenT
Sent from my mobile device

On Oct 10, 2009, at 2:37 AM, "markkofahl" <markkofahl@gmail.com> wrote:

> This afternoon an unhappy 'clunk-clunk' noise started about 4.5km
> into a 5km journey from home to the office garage.
>
> After our recent Old Bar trip, following cleaning etc, I took the
> vehicle back. At home there is a large grassy area and as I have
> done before, engaged the rear diff-lock briefly just to 'exercise'
> it. A shallow left turn is undertaken during the procedure and diff-
> lock is disengaged before leaving the grass. On this occaision the
> wheels did 'skip' somewhat, but not unusual.
>
> After an uneventful 4.5km the drivetrain at the rear started to make
> a 'clunk-clunk' noise, which could be felt as well, and varied with
> road speed, independent of clutch position.
>
> The manual (page 30) does say when rear diff-lock engaged there is a
> 'scrubbing effect' when cornering - leading to increased tyre wear
> and also to 'jerking' when the vehicle is steered, and in certain
> circumstances 'may even damage the drivetrain' (would imagine these
> circumstances are on 'metalled' road surfaces).
>
> I can't help but think I've somehow inflicted a wound here, yet
> hasn't been particularly contrary at all to normal offroad operation.
>
> Nonetheless, as there are no Syncro drivetrain specialists anywhere
> nearby, any clues/help/pointers as to what the problem may be would
> be appreciated.
>
> Mark.
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
3
Hi Ben - thanks for the prompt response - hopefully 'just' CV damage, and not in the gearbox itself at all.


On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 8:53 PM, BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:

Mark,

Guessing CV cage broke or maybe a rear brake got dislodged. Grab ahold of your rear axles. A broken CV should Ne relatively noticeable. If you're lucky, it might just be the CV bolts. They have a tendency to come loose especially when people try to tighten the bolts with a hex (Allen wrench) instead of the appropriate XZN (aka triple square) tool.

Good luck,

BenT
Sent from my mobile device


On Oct 10, 2009, at 2:37 AM, "markkofahl" <markkofahl@gmail.com> wrote:

This afternoon an unhappy 'clunk-clunk' noise started about 4.5km into a 5km journey from home to the office garage.

After our recent Old Bar trip, following cleaning etc, I took the vehicle back. At home there is a large grassy area and as I have done before, engaged the rear diff-lock briefly just to 'exercise' it. A shallow left turn is undertaken during the procedure and diff-lock is disengaged before leaving the grass. On this occaision the wheels did 'skip' somewhat, but not unusual.

After an uneventful 4.5km the drivetrain at the rear started to make a 'clunk-clunk' noise, which could be felt as well, and varied with road speed, independent of clutch position.

The manual (page 30) does say when rear diff-lock engaged there is a 'scrubbing effect' when cornering - leading to increased tyre wear and also to 'jerking' when the vehicle is steered, and in certain circumstances 'may even damage the drivetrain' (would imagine these circumstances are on 'metalled' road surfaces).

I can't help but think I've somehow inflicted a wound here, yet hasn't been particularly contrary at all to normal offroad operation.

Nonetheless, as there are no Syncro drivetrain specialists anywhere nearby, any clues/help/pointers as to what the problem may be would be appreciated.

Mark.





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia-digest@yahoogroups.com
mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Syncro_T3_Australia-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


4
Mark,

Gearbox damage tends to be more catasthrophic in my experience. If you are still able to get in and out of gear, then it shouldn't be that serious, relatively speaking.


BenT
Sent from my mobile device

On Oct 10, 2009, at 3:00 AM, Mark Kofahl <markkofahl@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Ben - thanks for the prompt response - hopefully 'just' CV damage, and not in the gearbox itself at all.


On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 8:53 PM, BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:

Mark,

Guessing CV cage broke or maybe a rear brake got dislodged. Grab ahold of your rear axles. A broken CV should   Ne relatively noticeable. If you're lucky, it might just be the CV bolts. They have a tendency to come loose especially when people try to tighten the bolts with a hex (Allen wrench) instead of the appropriate XZN (aka triple square) tool.

Good luck,

BenT
Sent from my mobile device


On Oct 10, 2009, at 2:37 AM, "markkofahl" <markkofahl@gmail.com> wrote:

This afternoon an unhappy 'clunk-clunk' noise started about 4.5km into a 5km journey from home to the office garage.

After our recent Old Bar trip, following cleaning etc, I took the vehicle back. At home there is a large grassy area and as I have done before, engaged the rear diff-lock briefly just to 'exercise' it. A shallow left turn is undertaken during the procedure and diff-lock is disengaged before leaving the grass. On this occaision the wheels did 'skip' somewhat, but not unusual.

After an uneventful 4.5km the drivetrain at the rear started to make a 'clunk-clunk' noise, which could be felt as well, and varied with road speed, independent of clutch position.

The manual (page 30) does say when rear diff-lock engaged there is a 'scrubbing effect' when cornering - leading to increased tyre wear and also to 'jerking' when the vehicle is steered, and in certain circumstances 'may even damage the drivetrain' (would imagine these circumstances are on 'metalled' road surfaces).

I can't help but think I've somehow inflicted a wound here, yet hasn't been particularly contrary at all to normal offroad operation.

Nonetheless, as there are no Syncro drivetrain specialists anywhere nearby, any clues/help/pointers as to what the problem may be would be appreciated.

Mark.





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/

<*> Your email settings:
  Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/join
  (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
  mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia-digest@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
  Syncro_T3_Australia-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


5
Mark,
 
When the 2 & 1/2 teeth came off my second gear it was very noticeable particularly in second gear. As the 2 & 1/2 teeth got lodge in the crown wheel & pinion, the damage then quickly became noticeable in all gears with and without the clutch activated.
 
Clunking is more likely to be a CV problem. They should be made weaker than the gearbox to insulate the gearbox from disaster.
 
I tend to agree with Ben here. I would get under and move your half shafts around and see if there is any serious play. Also get Deb to drive it slowly while you walk along side see if you can isolate the position of the noise.
 
Hopefully it is a CV - my last broken one only cost be $180.00 fitted.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

Hi Ben - thanks for the prompt response - hopefully 'just' CV damage, and not in the gearbox itself at all.


On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 8:53 PM, BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail. com> wrote:

Mark,

Guessing CV cage broke or maybe a rear brake got dislodged. Grab ahold of your rear axles. A broken CV should   Ne relatively noticeable. If you're lucky, it might just be the CV bolts. They have a tendency to come loose especially when people try to tighten the bolts with a hex (Allen wrench) instead of the appropriate XZN (aka triple square) tool.

Good luck,

BenT
Sent from my mobile device


On Oct 10, 2009, at 2:37 AM, "markkofahl" <markkofahl@gmail. com> wrote:

This afternoon an unhappy 'clunk-clunk' noise started about 4.5km into a 5km journey from home to the office garage.

After our recent Old Bar trip, following cleaning etc, I took the vehicle back. At home there is a large grassy area and as I have done before, engaged the rear diff-lock briefly just to 'exercise' it. A shallow left turn is undertaken during the procedure and diff-lock is disengaged before leaving the grass. On this occaision the wheels did 'skip' somewhat, but not unusual.

After an uneventful 4.5km the drivetrain at the rear started to make a 'clunk-clunk' noise, which could be felt as well, and varied with road speed, independent of clutch position.

The manual (page 30) does say when rear diff-lock engaged there is a 'scrubbing effect' when cornering - leading to increased tyre wear and also to 'jerking' when the vehicle is steered, and in certain circumstances 'may even damage the drivetrain' (would imagine these circumstances are on 'metalled' road surfaces).

I can't help but think I've somehow inflicted a wound here, yet hasn't been particularly contrary at all to normal offroad operation.

Nonetheless, as there are no Syncro drivetrain specialists anywhere nearby, any clues/help/pointers as to what the problem may be would be appreciated.

Mark.





------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
  http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/Syncro_ T3_Australia/

<*> Your email settings:
  Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
  http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/Syncro_ T3_Australia/ join
  (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
  mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia -digest@yahoogro ups.com
  mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia -fullfeatured@ yahoogroups. com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
  Syncro_T3_Australia -unsubscribe@ yahoogroups. com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
  http://docs. yahoo.com/ info/terms/



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.421 / Virus Database: 270.14.9/2426 - Release Date: 10/09/09 18:43:00
6
Hi Scott & Ben

Thanks for the supportive messages - will do this and see what I can find. I know it is always hard to diagnose remotely from a written description.

Yes, I can still engage all gears / reverse (although haven't tried G gear, but doubt it would be an issue - it is all shifting fine).

I'll let you know if I find anything.

Mark.

On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 9:48 PM, Mr Scott Pitcher <spbconsulting@bigpond.com> wrote:

Mark,
When the 2 & 1/2 teeth came off my second gear it was very noticeable particularly in second gear. As the 2 & 1/2 teeth got lodge in the crown wheel & pinion, the damage then quickly became noticeable in all gears with and without the clutch activated.
Clunking is more likely to be a CV problem. They should be made weaker than the gearbox to insulate the gearbox from disaster.
I tend to agree with Ben here. I would get under and move your half shafts around and see if there is any serious play. Also get Deb to drive it slowly while you walk along side see if you can isolate the position of the noise.
Hopefully it is a CV - my last broken one only cost be $180.00 fitted.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Kofahl
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

Hi Ben - thanks for the prompt response - hopefully 'just' CV damage, and not in the gearbox itself at all.


On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 8:53 PM, BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:

Mark,

Guessing CV cage broke or maybe a rear brake got dislodged. Grab ahold of your rear axles. A broken CV should Ne relatively noticeable. If you're lucky, it might just be the CV bolts. They have a tendency to come loose especially when people try to tighten the bolts with a hex (Allen wrench) instead of the appropriate XZN (aka triple square) tool.

Good luck,

BenT
Sent from my mobile device


On Oct 10, 2009, at 2:37 AM, "markkofahl" <markkofahl@gmail.com> wrote:

This afternoon an unhappy 'clunk-clunk' noise started about 4.5km into a 5km journey from home to the office garage.

After our recent Old Bar trip, following cleaning etc, I took the vehicle back. At home there is a large grassy area and as I have done before, engaged the rear diff-lock briefly just to 'exercise' it. A shallow left turn is undertaken during the procedure and diff-lock is disengaged before leaving the grass. On this occaision the wheels did 'skip' somewhat, but not unusual.

After an uneventful 4.5km the drivetrain at the rear started to make a 'clunk-clunk' noise, which could be felt as well, and varied with road speed, independent of clutch position.

The manual (page 30) does say when rear diff-lock engaged there is a 'scrubbing effect' when cornering - leading to increased tyre wear and also to 'jerking' when the vehicle is steered, and in certain circumstances 'may even damage the drivetrain' (would imagine these circumstances are on 'metalled' road surfaces).

I can't help but think I've somehow inflicted a wound here, yet hasn't been particularly contrary at all to normal offroad operation.

Nonetheless, as there are no Syncro drivetrain specialists anywhere nearby, any clues/help/pointers as to what the problem may be would be appreciated.

Mark.





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia-digest@yahoogroups.com
mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Syncro_T3_Australia-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.421 / Virus Database: 270.14.9/2426 - Release Date: 10/09/09 18:43:00

7

Mark,

 

In the early months after I bought my Syncro, I had an intermittent clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk.  It would last anywhere between ten seconds and a minute and it later went for longer periods.  It was at wheel (and therefore half shaft) speed.  I was at HSV at the time and a bit busy so I sent it to Volkspower for diagnosis and rectification.  They said that the CV joints appeared to be OK but they replaced most of them and the noise never came back.

 

A continuous clunking, if it is at wheel speed, suggests CV joints.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Mark Kofahl
Sent: 10 October 2009 23:15
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

 

Hi Scott & Ben

Thanks for the supportive messages - will do this and see what I can find. I know it is always hard to diagnose remotely from a written description.

Yes, I can still engage all gears / reverse (although haven't tried G gear, but doubt it would be an issue - it is all shifting fine).

I'll let you know if I find anything.

Mark.

 

8
Hi Les

Thank you - it is at wheel speed, in so far as it increases and decreases as the speed of the wheels increase and decrease. I haven't had enough length of time with it to try and correlate the clunks to any specific rotations per minute or similar. However, what you describe seems akin to my symptoms.

When you say you sent it to Volkspower - did you drive it there? Or did you rather put it on a tray?

Regards
Mark.

On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 11:31 PM, leslieharris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Mark,

In the early months after I bought my Syncro, I had an intermittent clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk. It would last anywhere between ten seconds and a minute and it later went for longer periods. It was at wheel (and therefore half shaft) speed. I was at HSV at the time and a bit busy so I sent it to Volkspower for diagnosis and rectification. They said that the CV joints appeared to be OK but they replaced most of them and the noise never came back.

A continuous clunking, if it is at wheel speed, suggests CV joints.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Kofahl
Sent: 10 October 2009 23:15
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com


Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

Hi Scott & Ben



Thanks for the supportive messages - will do this and see what I can find. I know it is always hard to diagnose remotely from a written description.

Yes, I can still engage all gears / reverse (although haven't tried G gear, but doubt it would be an issue - it is all shifting fine).

I'll let you know if I find anything.

Mark.


9

Mark,

 

I flat topped it to Volkspower.  The noise was loud enough to reasonably expect that a catastrophic failure could occur if I drove it there,

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Mark Kofahl
Sent: 10 October 2009 23:55
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

 

Hi Les

Thank you - it is at wheel speed, in so far as it increases and decreases as the speed of the wheels increase and decrease. I haven't had enough length of time with it to try and correlate the clunks to any specific rotations per minute or similar. However, what you describe seems akin to my symptoms.

When you say you sent it to Volkspower - did you drive it there? Or did you rather put it on a tray?

Regards
Mark.

On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 11:31 PM, leslieharris <leslieharris@ optusnet. com.au> wrote:

 

Mark,

 

In the early months after I bought my Syncro, I had an intermittent clunk-clunk- clunk-clunk.  It would last anywhere between ten seconds and a minute and it later went for longer periods.  It was at wheel (and therefore half shaft) speed.  I was at HSV at the time and a bit busy so I sent it to Volkspower for diagnosis and rectification.  They said that the CV joints appeared to be OK but they replaced most of them and the noise never came back.

 

A continuous clunking, if it is at wheel speed, suggests CV joints.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Mark Kofahl
Sent: 10 October 2009 23:15
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com


Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

 

Hi Scott & Ben



Thanks for the supportive messages - will do this and see what I can find. I know it is always hard to diagnose remotely from a written description.

Yes, I can still engage all gears / reverse (although haven't tried G gear, but doubt it would be an issue - it is all shifting fine).

I'll let you know if I find anything.

Mark.

 

 

10

Test transmission only.

 

 

11
Gday Ben,
When I bought my syncro, I found all CV bolts except for 2 were 6mm hex. I tried to buy the triple square tool locally, auto parts suppliers had no idea what I was talking about. Had to get one shipped in from GoWesty so I could remove the 12 pointer ones.
 
So it could well be in Australia we have the 6mm hex CV bolts fitted as standard, whereas US has the triple square ones.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 

 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
CC: markkofahl@gmail.com
From: syncro@gmail.com
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 02:53:58 -0700
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

Mark,

Guessing CV cage broke or maybe a rear brake got dislodged. Grab ahold
of your rear axles. A broken CV should Ne relatively noticeable. If
you're lucky, it might just be the CV bolts. They have a tendency to
come loose especially when people try to tighten the bolts with a hex
(Allen wrench) instead of the appropriate XZN (aka triple square) tool.

Good luck,

BenT
Sent from my mobile device

On Oct 10, 2009, at 2:37 AM, "markkofahl" <markkofahl@gmail. com> wrote:

> This afternoon an unhappy 'clunk-clunk' noise started about 4.5km
> into a 5km journey from home to the office garage.
>
> After our recent Old Bar trip, following cleaning etc, I took the
> vehicle back. At home there is a large grassy area and as I have
> done before, engaged the rear diff-lock briefly just to 'exercise'
> it. A shallow left turn is undertaken during the procedure and diff-
> lock is disengaged before leaving the grass. On this occaision the
> wheels did 'skip' somewhat, but not unusual.
>
> After an uneventful 4.5km the drivetrain at the rear started to make
> a 'clunk-clunk' noise, which could be felt as well, and varied with
> road speed, independent of clutch position.
>
> The manual (page 30) does say when rear diff-lock engaged there is a
> 'scrubbing effect' when cornering - leading to increased tyre wear
> and also to 'jerking' when the vehicle is steered, and in certain
> circumstances 'may even damage the drivetrain' (would imagine these
> circumstances are on 'metalled' road surfaces).
>
> I can't help but think I've somehow inflicted a wound here, yet
> hasn't been particularly contrary at all to normal offroad operation.
>
> Nonetheless, as there are no Syncro drivetrain specialists anywhere
> nearby, any clues/help/pointers as to what the problem may be would
> be appreciated.
>
> Mark.
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


Find out how here Get Hotmail on your iPhone
12
Ken,
Every Syncro I've ever owned from several countries in Europe plus Canada, and the US, had the XZN bolts. I have seen cheaper replacement CV's come with hex bolts though. I've never owned a T3 originally delivered to OZ so I am not qualified to comment on that subject.
Regards,
BenT


On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 3:20 PM, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:


Gday Ben,
When I bought my syncro, I found all CV bolts except for 2 were 6mm hex. I tried to buy the triple square tool locally, auto parts suppliers had no idea what I was talking about. Had to get one shipped in from GoWesty so I could remove the 12 pointer ones.

So it could well be in Australia we have the 6mm hex CV bolts fitted as standard, whereas US has the triple square ones.

Cheers.

Ken



To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
CC: markkofahl@gmail.com
From: syncro@gmail.com
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 02:53:58 -0700

Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?


Mark,

Guessing CV cage broke or maybe a rear brake got dislodged. Grab ahold
of your rear axles. A broken CV should Ne relatively noticeable. If
you're lucky, it might just be the CV bolts. They have a tendency to
come loose especially when people try to tighten the bolts with a hex
(Allen wrench) instead of the appropriate XZN (aka triple square) tool.

Good luck,

BenT
Sent from my mobile device

On Oct 10, 2009, at 2:37 AM, "markkofahl" <markkofahl@gmail.com> wrote:

> This afternoon an unhappy 'clunk-clunk' noise started about 4.5km
> into a 5km journey from home to the office garage.
>
> After our recent Old Bar trip, following cleaning etc, I took the
> vehicle back. At home there is a large grassy area and as I have
> done before, engaged the rear diff-lock briefly just to 'exercise'
> it. A shallow left turn is undertaken during the procedure and diff-
> lock is disengaged before leaving the grass. On this occaision the
> wheels did 'skip' somewhat, but not unusual.
>
> After an uneventful 4.5km the drivetrain at the rear started to make
> a 'clunk-clunk' noise, which could be felt as well, and varied with
> road speed, independent of clutch position.
>
> The manual (page 30) does say when rear diff-lock engaged there is a
> 'scrubbing effect' when cornering - leading to increased tyre wear
> and also to 'jerking' when the vehicle is steered, and in certain
> circumstances 'may even damage the drivetrain' (would imagine these
> circumstances are on 'metalled' road surfaces).
>
> I can't help but think I've somehow inflicted a wound here, yet
> hasn't been particularly contrary at all to normal offroad operation.
>
> Nonetheless, as there are no Syncro drivetrain specialists anywhere
> nearby, any clues/help/pointers as to what the problem may be would
> be appreciated.
>
> Mark.
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


Find out how here Get Hotmail on your iPhone




--
BenT
13
On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 2:36 PM, Les Harris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:


Test transmission only.

Les,
The best way to do that is by taking your Syncro for a drive.
;-) hehehe
BenT
14
> BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Every Syncro I've ever owned from several countries in Europe plus
> Canada,
> and the US, had the XZN bolts. I have seen cheaper replacement CV's come
> with hex bolts though. I've never owned a T3 originally delivered to OZ
> so I
> am not qualified to comment on that subject.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> BenT
>

It may be a year model thing. I cannot see why Australia would be different.

I think that mine may be hex and I know that they are original.

Tools for XZN bolts are easy to get here and are available from a number of suppliers.
15

Yeah, OK, I asked for that one didn’t I.

 

I have been having a problem with my email settings after a major outage if my ISP.  They had to reset my email account to get me back up again but managed to change my displayed name along the way.  They made several attempts to fix it but failed.  I researched the problem and fixed it myself – hence the test message.

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BenT Syncro
Sent: 11 October 2009 09:50
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com; Les_Harris
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Test

 

 

On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 2:36 PM, Les Harris <leslieharris@ optusnet. com.au> wrote:

 

Test transmission only.

 

Les,

 

The best way to do that is by taking your Syncro for a drive.

 

;-) hehehe

 

 

BenT

 

16

Mine are single hex and there is no functional difference between the two heads.  I have no way of knowing what was on it originally.  In terms of having to service something on the road, I prefer the single hex because a) I always carry a set of hex keys in the tool box and b) I can get replacement good quality hex keys from any motor spared outlet.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of plander@optusnet.com.au
Sent: 11 October 2009 09:57
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

 



> BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail. com>
wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Every Syncro I've ever owned from several countries in Europe plus
> Canada ,
> and the US ,
had the XZN bolts. I have seen cheaper replacement CV's come
> with hex bolts though. I've never owned a T3 originally delivered to OZ
> so I
> am not qualified to comment on that subject.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> BenT
>

It may be a year model thing. I cannot see why Australia would be different.

I think that mine may be hex and I know that they are original.

Tools for XZN bolts are easy to get here and are available from a number of suppliers.

17
Les,
 
The rear wheel outer CV bolts are fun eh .. access is restricted especially when crawling about under a jacked up rear replete with torch. Often the hex hole in the bolt head can be all gunked up. Lack of care cleaning them first can result in stripped hex holes in bolt heads and that is when it starts getting very very interesting indeed ... haha
 
For those outer bolts I use an UMBRO 6mm hex tool with the long end 185mm ... this one isn't usually included in the regulat hex tool sets.
 
Ken 

 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: leslieharris@optusnet.com.au
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 10:14:26 +1100
Subject: RE: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

Mine are single hex and there is no functional difference between the two heads.  I have no way of knowing what was on it originally.  In terms of having to service something on the road, I prefer the single hex because a) I always carry a set of hex keys in the tool box and b) I can get replacement good quality hex keys from any motor spared outlet.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of plander@optusnet. com.au
Sent: 11 October 2009 09:57
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

 



> BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail. com> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Every Syncro I've ever owned from several countries in Europe plus
> Canada,
> and the US, had the XZN bolts. I have seen cheaper replacement CV's come
> with hex bolts though. I've never owned a T3 originally delivered to OZ
> so I
> am not qualified to comment on that subject.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> BenT
>

It may be a year model thing. I cannot see why Australia would be different.

I think that mine may be hex and I know that they are original.

Tools for XZN bolts are easy to get here and are available from a number of suppliers.


Check out The Great Australian Pay Check Take a peek at other people's pay and perks
18
sorry .... I mean UNBRAKO 6mm hex tool x 185mm long
 
To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
From: unclekenz@hotmail.com
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 10:18:21 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 
Les,
 
The rear wheel outer CV bolts are fun eh .. access is restricted especially when crawling about under a jacked up rear replete with torch. Often the hex hole in the bolt head can be all gunked up. Lack of care cleaning them first can result in stripped hex holes in bolt heads and that is when it starts getting very very interesting indeed ... haha
 
For those outer bolts I use an UMBRO 6mm hex tool with the long end 185mm ... this one isn't usually included in the regulat hex tool sets.
 
Ken 

 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
From: leslieharris@ optusnet. com.au
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 10:14:26 +1100
Subject: RE: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

Mine are single hex and there is no functional difference between the two heads.  I have no way of knowing what was on it originally.  In terms of having to service something on the road, I prefer the single hex because a) I always carry a set of hex keys in the tool box and b) I can get replacement good quality hex keys from any motor spared outlet.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of plander@optusnet. com.au
Sent: 11 October 2009 09:57
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

 



> BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail. com> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Every Syncro I've ever owned from several countries in Europe plus
> Canada,
> and the US, had the XZN bolts. I have seen cheaper replacement CV's come
> with hex bolts though. I've never owned a T3 originally delivered to OZ
> so I
> am not qualified to comment on that subject.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> BenT
>

It may be a year model thing. I cannot see why Australia would be different.

I think that mine may be hex and I know that they are original.

Tools for XZN bolts are easy to get here and are available from a number of suppliers.


Check out The Great Australian Pay Check Take a peek at other people's pay and perks


Find out how here Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox
19

Ken,

 

For the sake of those who have yet to have the pleasure, it is worth giving some tips. 

Visibility is as big a problem as accessibility so the first thing to do is to get a light source small enough to get inside.  As you say, recesses full of grit and grease have to be totally clean before a hex key can get a full grip.  Use a piece of thick wire with the end beaten flat to get in and break up the grit and grease.  The ideal thing to get it out is an air compressor and a fine tube air pencil.

Long hex extensions for ¼ inch or 3/8 inch drives are the best to use.  They are available at good auto parts dealers.

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: 11 October 2009 11:18
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

 

Les,
 
The rear wheel outer CV bolts are fun eh .. access is restricted especially when crawling about under a jacked up rear replete with torch. Often the hex hole in the bolt head can be all gunked up. Lack of care cleaning them first can result in stripped hex holes in bolt heads and that is when it starts getting very very interesting indeed ... haha
 
For those outer bolts I use an UMBRO 6mm hex tool with the long end 185mm ... this one isn't usually included in the regulat hex tool sets.
 
Ken 

 

 

20
Les,
 
Provided the quality is good, given the resticted working space, smaller sized tools are best in this scenario. 1/2 inch is too big.
 
At the time, I had trouble finding 1/4 or 3/8 inch x 6mm hex sockets, having those means as you say, able to use the slimmer extensions.
 
You must have better auto parts shops down there in Mexico eh ... lol
 
Ken

 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: leslieharris@optusnet.com.au
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 12:28:04 +1100
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

Ken,

 

For the sake of those who have yet to have the pleasure, it is worth giving some tips. 

Visibility is as big a problem as accessibility so the first thing to do is to get a light source small enough to get inside.  As you say, recesses full of grit and grease have to be totally clean before a hex key can get a full grip.  Use a piece of thick wire with the end beaten flat to get in and break up the grit and grease.  The ideal thing to get it out is an air compressor and a fine tube air pencil.

Long hex extensions for ¼ inch or 3/8 inch drives are the best to use.  They are available at good auto parts dealers.

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: 11 October 2009 11:18
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Rear Diff Lock cause damage?

 

 

Les,
 
The rear wheel outer CV bolts are fun eh .. access is restricted especially when crawling about under a jacked up rear replete with torch. Often the hex hole in the bolt head can be all gunked up. Lack of care cleaning them first can result in stripped hex holes in bolt heads and that is when it starts getting very very interesting indeed ... haha
 
For those outer bolts I use an UMBRO 6mm hex tool with the long end 185mm ... this one isn't usually included in the regulat hex tool sets.
 
Ken 

 

 



Click Here View photos of singles in your area