Seikel Springs

Hi Hart

Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!

I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.

Cheers
Gary Cookson
Good one Gary. Any chance of a fender to hub measurement? Greg E

--- On Wed, 9/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Wednesday, 9 March, 2011, 11:47 AM

Hi Hart

Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!

I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.

Cheers
Gary Cookson

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Of course!

Top of tyre to bottom edge of wheel arch 150mm



On 09/03/2011, at 1:29 PM, greg esposito wrote:

 

Good one Gary. Any chance of a fender to hub measurement? Greg E

--- On Wed, 9/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Wednesday, 9 March, 2011, 11:47 AM

Hi Hart

Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!

I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.

Cheers
Gary Cookson

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Hi Gary,  glad you have gotten round to it and fitted the kidney killers, should be ok with a Kamper. You are not wrong there , the DOKA has been hopping like a roo !
The rears are just designed that way and the beauty is that you can load the truck to the ceiling and it won't change the height much. Would have been ideal for Skot
and the Princesses !
 
Hart

 
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
> Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:47:03 +1100
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
>
> Hi Hart
>
> Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!
>
> I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Cookson
>
> ------------------------------------
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Enjoy that weekend camp, Gary! Good to hear you're hauling your Styncro into line.

Francesca.

On 9 March 2011 19:49, Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:

Hi Gary, glad you have gotten round to it and fitted the kidney killers, should be ok with a Kamper. You are not wrong there , the DOKA has been hopping like a roo !
The rears are just designed that way and the beauty is that you can load the truck to the ceiling and it won't change the height much. Would have been ideal for Skot
and the Princesses !

Hart

> From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
> Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:47:03 +1100

> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
>
> Hi Hart
>
> Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!
>
> I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Cookson
>
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The kidney killers, like it, will see what my queen and princes think at the weekend with a full load. I quite like the ride so far, almost sporty and braking without diving too much is great.

Not sure the styncro is giving up without a fight Francesca see my next email!

Gary


On 09/03/2011, at 8:00 PM, Francesca Coles <fcoles6@gmail.com> wrote:

 

Enjoy that weekend camp, Gary! Good to hear you're hauling your Styncro into line.


Francesca.

On 9 March 2011 19:49, Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:
 

Hi Gary,  glad you have gotten round to it and fitted the kidney killers, should be ok with a Kamper. You are not wrong there , the DOKA has been hopping like a roo !
The rears are just designed that way and the beauty is that you can load the truck to the ceiling and it won't change the height much. Would have been ideal for Skot
and the Princesses !
 
Hart

> From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
> Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:47:03 +1100

> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
>
> Hi Hart
>
> Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!
>
> I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Cookson
>
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Yes my Queen and her princesses know how to over load a syncro to the point I cant see out the back. Especially carrying Christmas presents. We managed to delay our trip for a week this year and will be @ Crescent Head from 1st Jan through to 7th - hopefully I will be able to see what's behind me on that trip - probably not though - they will just find more stuff to bring.
 
That will be time to have a close inspection of the new slab @ Hart Motors.
 
Cheers,
 
Skot
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:49 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs

 

Hi Gary,  glad you have gotten round to it and fitted the kidney killers, should be ok with a Kamper. You are not wrong there , the DOKA has been hopping like a roo !
The rears are just designed that way and the beauty is that you can load the truck to the ceiling and it won't change the height much. Would have been ideal for Skot
and the Princesses !
 
Hart

 
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
> Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:47:03 +1100
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
>
> Hi Hart
>
> Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!
>
> I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Cookson
>
> ------------------------------------
>
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>
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Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary
Gary,  have you tried to put the old sender back in ?? Ha.
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 21:01:17 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 
Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary


Had the same symptoms on Tristar recently, sprayed some contact spray into the push-on plug, is ok now. Ha.
 

To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
From: hartis@live.com.au
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 20:58:39 +1100
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 
Gary,  have you tried to put the old sender back in ?? Ha.
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 21:01:17 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 
Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




All the contacts are clean on the sender plug I did check but chucked the old one out foolishly. I'll give the contacts a squirt tomorrow though. 
Cheers
Gary 

On 09/03/2011, at 9:01 PM, Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:

 

Had the same symptoms on Tristar recently, sprayed some contact spray into the push-on plug, is ok now. Ha.
 


To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
From: hartis@live.com.au
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 20:58:39 +1100
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 
Gary,  have you tried to put the old sender back in ?? Ha.
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 21:01:17 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 
Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




Oh dear, Gary (I read your other email). Styncro, Schmyncro, get your act together! What a bummer, just as you were preparing to go away for the long weekend.
You can borrow ours for the weekend, if you'd like; we won't be able to get away after all . Not quite the same, I know.... Best of luck.
Francesca.

On 9 March 2011 20:31, Mr Scott Pitcher <spbconsulting@bigpond.com> wrote:

Yes my Queen and her princesses know how to over load a syncro to the point I cant see out the back. Especially carrying Christmas presents. We managed to delay our trip for a week this year and will be @ Crescent Head from 1st Jan through to 7th - hopefully I will be able to see what's behind me on that trip - probably not though - they will just find more stuff to bring.
That will be time to have a close inspection of the new slab @ Hart Motors.
Cheers,
Skot
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:49 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs

Hi Gary, glad you have gotten round to it and fitted the kidney killers, should be ok with a Kamper. You are not wrong there , the DOKA has been hopping like a roo !
The rears are just designed that way and the beauty is that you can load the truck to the ceiling and it won't change the height much. Would have been ideal for Skot
and the Princesses !

Hart


> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
> Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:47:03 +1100
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
>
> Hi Hart
>
> Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!
>
> I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Cookson
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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Hey Gary, I have a new switch from just kampers sitting on the bench if you need it for the w/end, but that is probably what you have! If you think it might be a bleeding issue I have a pipe which extends the height of the header tank above the radiator bleeder. Greg E

--- On Wed, 9/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Wednesday, 9 March, 2011, 9:01 PM

 
Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary

 
Thanks Francesca kind of you to offer. I'll have another look at the wiring tomorrow. Greg I may take you up on the offer of the sender. If I popped round I could swap it there and then to eliminate it. I bought this one from the vw service guys on highett St in Richmond. I wonder if there are different types and they gave me one from another model. I'll check the part no I guess.

On 09/03/2011, at 10:22 PM, Francesca Coles <fcoles6@gmail.com> wrote:

 

Oh dear, Gary (I read your other email). Styncro, Schmyncro, get your act together! What a bummer, just as you were preparing to go away for the long weekend.
 
You can borrow ours for the weekend, if you'd like; we won't be able to get away after all . Not quite the same, I know.... Best of luck.
 
Francesca.  

On 9 March 2011 20:31, Mr Scott Pitcher <spbconsulting@bigpond.com> wrote:
 

Yes my Queen and her princesses know how to over load a syncro to the point I cant see out the back. Especially carrying Christmas presents. We managed to delay our trip for a week this year and will be @ Crescent Head from 1st Jan through to 7th - hopefully I will be able to see what's behind me on that trip - probably not though - they will just find more stuff to bring.
 
That will be time to have a close inspection of the new slab @ Hart Motors.
 
Cheers,
 
Skot
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:49 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs

 

Hi Gary,  glad you have gotten round to it and fitted the kidney killers, should be ok with a Kamper. You are not wrong there , the DOKA has been hopping like a roo !
The rears are just designed that way and the beauty is that you can load the truck to the ceiling and it won't change the height much. Would have been ideal for Skot
and the Princesses !
 
Hart

 
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
> Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:47:03 +1100
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
>
> Hi Hart
>
> Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!
>
> I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Cookson
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/
>
> <*> Your email settings:
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>
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Hi Gary - there are two different types of sender for the expansion tank:
      
       251 919 372 fits 1983-87 models [with 12mm wide wiring loom plug]

       251 919 372A fits 1988-92 [with 14 mm wide wiring loom plug].

  They are identical except for the wiring loom plug.

   If you had the wrong one, the electrical connection wouldn't fit.

  Try cracking open the plug on the top of the radiator to bleed the air out. Sometimes you have to drive it around for a while and bleed it a few times before it settles down.

  Don't forget to turn on the heater.
                                                                                                 Roger [beetle]
No probs Gary. The switch I have is item J10725 on jk's site. They say '81 - 92' petrol and diesel, so should fit. ph0409420164. Greg E

--- On Wed, 9/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Wednesday, 9 March, 2011, 11:21 PM

 
Thanks Francesca kind of you to offer. I'll have another look at the wiring tomorrow. Greg I may take you up on the offer of the sender. If I popped round I could swap it there and then to eliminate it. I bought this one from the vw service guys on highett St in Richmond. I wonder if there are different types and they gave me one from another model. I'll check the part no I guess.

On 09/03/2011, at 10:22 PM, Francesca Coles <fcoles6@gmail.com> wrote:

 
Oh dear, Gary (I read your other email). Styncro, Schmyncro, get your act together! What a bummer, just as you were preparing to go away for the long weekend.
 
You can borrow ours for the weekend, if you'd like; we won't be able to get away after all . Not quite the same, I know.... Best of luck.
 
Francesca.  

On 9 March 2011 20:31, Mr Scott Pitcher <spbconsulting@bigpond.com> wrote:
 
Yes my Queen and her princesses know how to over load a syncro to the point I cant see out the back. Especially carrying Christmas presents. We managed to delay our trip for a week this year and will be @ Crescent Head from 1st Jan through to 7th - hopefully I will be able to see what's behind me on that trip - probably not though - they will just find more stuff to bring.
 
That will be time to have a close inspection of the new slab @ Hart Motors.
 
Cheers,
 
Skot
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:49 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs

 
Hi Gary,  glad you have gotten round to it and fitted the kidney killers, should be ok with a Kamper. You are not wrong there , the DOKA has been hopping like a roo !
The rears are just designed that way and the beauty is that you can load the truck to the ceiling and it won't change the height much. Would have been ideal for Skot
and the Princesses !
 
Hart

 
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
> Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:47:03 +1100
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Seikel Springs
>
> Hi Hart
>
> Finally got the OMEs and the Seikel front springs on my camper at the weekend. New top ball joints as well. It's now riding nice and level and a fair bit higher than the old saggy ones. The front is definitely quite firm – but not uncomfortably so – but have only driven a little so not tested thoroughly but will be loading it up for a weekend camp this weekend so all good. Only took me 18 months or so!
>
> I can see what you mean about the rear springs being tight in the centre coils but they seem fine really. Those front ones really are very heavy gauge, I can see how a Doka would be hopping around a bit.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Cookson
>
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Thanks Roger the plug fits fine so it must be correct but ill check those numbers. I have had the heater on and opened the rad bleeder until water runs clear with no bubbles. Topped up driven round, open bleed valve, top up again until engine warm, drive, repeat. Done it so many times most of the g12 must be on the road!

On 09/03/2011, at 11:50 PM, Gullyraker@aol.com wrote:

 

Hi Gary - there are two different types of sender for the expansion tank:
      
       251 919 372 fits 1983-87 models [with 12mm wide wiring loom plug]

       251 919 372A fits 1988-92 [with 14 mm wide wiring loom plug].

  They are identical except for the wiring loom plug.

   If you had the wrong one, the electrical connection wouldn't fit.

  Try cracking open the plug on the top of the radiator to bleed the air out. Sometimes you have to drive it around for a while and bleed it a few times before it settles down.

  Don't forget to turn on the heater.
                                                                                                 Roger [beetle]

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary


wow...
such optimism.
I save every last old part until he project is well down the road and I know things are working just fine ..
and even then, if the replaced part is not just trashed,
I save it for 'just in case.'
 
why burn your bridges like that ?
the odds of a new parts being '1000 % perfect' to me are only so-so.
 
I also happen to be very diagnostics -focused rather than parts-replacing focused..so I never recommend 'just replace parts.'
Lots of people mess up their vans by just replacing parts I think.
It's not in the parts, it's in the workmanship and diagnosis.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 3:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

All the contacts are clean on the sender plug I did check but chucked the old one out foolishly. I'll give the contacts a squirt tomorrow though. 
Cheers
Gary 

On 09/03/2011, at 9:01 PM, Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:

 

Had the same symptoms on Tristar recently, sprayed some contact spray into the push-on plug, is ok now. Ha.
 


To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
From: hartis@live.com.au
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 20:58:39 +1100
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 
Gary,  have you tried to put the old sender back in ?? Ha.
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: gary@twentytwentyone.net
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 21:01:17 +1100
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 
Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




I just hate people that just replace coils and spark plug leads with cheap unreliable ones. Most mechanics do not understand VW spark plug leads.



> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
Lots of people mess up their vans by just replacing parts I think.
It's not in the parts, it's in the workmanship and diagnosis.