Seikel Springs

21
Hi Phill,  great news from Port. ALDI  store is well under way and opening in August ! The money we save there easily pays for the petrol hike. Hart
 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: plander@optusnet.com.au
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 07:52:45 +1100
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 
I just hate people that just replace coils and spark plug leads with cheap unreliable ones. Most mechanics do not understand VW spark plug leads.

> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
Lots of people mess up their vans by just replacing parts I think.
It's not in the parts, it's in the workmanship and diagnosis.


22
Has petrol gone up?

I haven't bought any this year.



> Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Phill, great news from Port. ALDI store is well under way and
> opening in August ! The money we save there easily pays for the petrol
> hike. Hart
>
>
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: plander@optusnet.com.au
> Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 07:52:45 +1100
> Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I just hate people that just replace coils and spark plug leads with
> cheap unreliable ones. Most mechanics do not understand VW spark plug
> leads.
>
> > Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> >
> Lots of people mess up their vans by just replacing parts I think.
> It's not in the parts, it's in the workmanship and diagnosis.
>
>
>
>
23
really .
the only ignition parts to use are original type Bosch ones ...
I super hate to see el cheapo tune up parts on Syncro's.
 
I don't even find that the ignition parts wear that much.
I make T3 vans run right all the time ..but rarely do I ever do a classic 'tune up' per se.
Those parts hardly wear.
and a little erosion on a Bosch distributor cap terminal adds up to just nothing ...
if a van is not running right ......it's never just a little wear on a bosch distributor cap ..
but ..
I always have a spare on board anyway.  Just a known-good used spare.  And a lot of other bits like that.
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

I just hate people that just replace coils and spark plug leads with cheap unreliable ones. Most mechanics do not understand VW spark plug leads.

> Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
Lots of people mess up their vans by just replacing parts I think.
It's not in the parts, it's in the workmanship and diagnosis.

24
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary



25
I am not sure, but I think that a low level indication also sends the guage high. If it is only the light then it may be at the dash end maybe.


> Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:
>
> Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.
>
> I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of
> my brain that new where it was.
>
> When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and
> square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender
> was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is
> genuine vw with the correct part no.
>
> However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while
> revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out.
> Rev slightly - blinkies again.
>
> I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so
> seems to be working fine apart from the light.
>
> I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were
> tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think
> it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.
>
> With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go
> down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the
> revs a touch would it?
>
> The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and
> returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed
> the water runs clear with no bubbles.
>
> Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine
> bay? So do you top up with the engine running?
>
> Grrr
>
> Gary
>
>
> On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
>
> >
> > I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure
> bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
> > that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning
> on the warning light.
> >
> > or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
> > I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
> >
> > Scott
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gary Cookson
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
> > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature
> red light flashing that is.
> >
> > I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not
> been done for some time.
> >
> > I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit
> yuck and a new blue cap.
> >
> > I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with
> water. I opened the radiator bleed and topped off the header until it
> ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up
> the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on
> the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped.
> Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc.
> Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.
> >
> > So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go
> out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes
> on. Start warm and it's on all the time.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Gary
> >
> >
> >
26
hi..
yes...the pressure bottle is the one in the engine bay with the pressure cap on it. ( blue cap  )
 
here's all I ever do ..
and I change out T3 engines almost dozens of times a year.
 
I do add coolant while it's idling.
I am very aware of how the level drops when revved..
I never even bother with that anymore ..
 
I just get in all the coolant it will take ..first with engine off, then with engine idling ..
( do open the bleed valve on top of the thermostat housing )
 
'sure' ..sometimes I will do the bleed at the front thing ..
but I have not found them to be critical that way at all.
 
I do watch them very carefully for days after having the cooling system open ..but I just fill 'em ..
and put more in when they'll take it. 
 I 'mgiht' bleed to the front ...but not always for sure every time.
I think there is naturally a small air space at the top of the rad ...that will be there a few minues after you bleed it even .
To be fair, I did have one case of a syncro-subaru T3 van ..
where it was happier after bleeding to the front.  
 
re the flashing LED ...
sure, try the old one.
also ..
connection to that sensor ..
if the connector does not make contact...the LED will flash continuously.
If you jumper to two wires trying to trick it...it will still flash continually.
 
when I want to trick that system I jumper the connector with a resistor ..
what size almost doesnt' matter....2.2 ohms say ...whatever is in my subaur engine conversion resistor stash.
 
I have had brand new ( cheap ones though ) level sensors not seal, or not stay in place in the pressure bottle in the threds there.
 if it's working ..
I tend to leave that part alone.
 
More and more I learn ...
'leave well enough alone' ...so often we think ...just one little tweak .
just one little part will bring it from say 90 % really nice to perfect...and we loose ground doing that. ..
and wish I had left it alone ..
that's an art though ..knowing what to leave alone and what to replace...where parts that are not just totally worn out are concerned.
 
if it was me I'd probably whip out my cheater resistor, plug it in ,
confirm that I had a properly working cooling system ..
and then address that one issue later.
 
you did have both heater vavles fully open right ?
 
what type coolant did you opt for ?
I don't think blue is neccessary really ..
I did use conventional green with my 'secret' water soluble oil added as a rust inhibutor and water pump lubricant ..
and for my really keeper vans I'm going over to Dexcool now. ..with the water soluble oil added ..
machinist's cutting oil. Been doing that for 25+ years to hundreds of cars and vans..it works.
 
Scott
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.


I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary



27
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




 
28
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 

Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




 


29
Hi Scott

I did try shorting the sender terminals as well but realised that some sort of resistance was needed. If i can find a resistor on something i'll try that just to stop the light.

ou did have both heater vavles fully open right ?

Mine is a 4 cyl 1.6TD diesel so only has the front bleeder and front heater. I think some of the petrols have another bleeder in the engine bay but heater on hot at all times.

( do open the bleed valve on top of the thermostat housing )
I don't seem to have this?

 
what type coolant did you opt for ?

Violet G12++ VW stuff very expensive coating for my back yard at the moment.

Tried swapping to the old sender but same symptoms. If anything though the light stays off a fraction longer with the old sensor before blinking after revving.

Gary



On 10/03/2011, at 10:33 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

hi..
yes...the pressure bottle is the one in the engine bay with the pressure cap on it. ( blue cap  )
 
here's all I ever do ..
and I change out T3 engines almost dozens of times a year.
 
I do add coolant while it's idling.
I am very aware of how the level drops when revved..
I never even bother with that anymore ..
 
I just get in all the coolant it will take ..first with engine off, then with engine idling ..
( do open the bleed valve on top of the thermostat housing )
 
'sure' ..sometimes I will do the bleed at the front thing ..
but I have not found them to be critical that way at all.
 
I do watch them very carefully for days after having the cooling system open ..but I just fill 'em ..
and put more in when they'll take it. 
 I 'mgiht' bleed to the front ...but not always for sure every time.
I think there is naturally a small air space at the top of the rad ...that will be there a few minues after you bleed it even .
To be fair, I did have one case of a syncro-subaru T3 van ..
where it was happier after bleeding to the front.  
 
re the flashing LED ...
sure, try the old one.
also ..
connection to that sensor ..
if the connector does not make contact...the LED will flash continuously.
If you jumper to two wires trying to trick it...it will still flash continually.
 
when I want to trick that system I jumper the connector with a resistor ..
what size almost doesnt' matter....2.2 ohms say ...whatever is in my subaur engine conversion resistor stash.
 
I have had brand new ( cheap ones though ) level sensors not seal, or not stay in place in the pressure bottle in the threds there.
 if it's working ..
I tend to leave that part alone.
 
More and more I learn ...
'leave well enough alone' ...so often we think ...just one little tweak .
just one little part will bring it from say 90 % really nice to perfect...and we loose ground doing that. ..
and wish I had left it alone ..
that's an art though ..knowing what to leave alone and what to replace...where parts that are not just totally worn out are concerned.
 
if it was me I'd probably whip out my cheater resistor, plug it in ,
confirm that I had a properly working cooling system ..
and then address that one issue later.
 
you did have both heater vavles fully open right ?
 
what type coolant did you opt for ?
I don't think blue is neccessary really ..
I did use conventional green with my 'secret' water soluble oil added as a rust inhibutor and water pump lubricant ..
and for my really keeper vans I'm going over to Dexcool now. ..with the water soluble oil added ..
machinist's cutting oil. Been doing that for 25+ years to hundreds of cars and vans..it works.
 
Scott
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.


I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary






30
Yes it will rise and fall but if during cool down (when the cap sucks in coolant from the expansion tank to compensate for the contracting coolant in the pressurised system) the cap sucks in air then you will end up with a air pocket in the header. If you take off the blue cap when the engine is stone cold is it full to the brim? If not it is either sucking air or has not been bled properly. If it is not overheating  and not loosing coolant try not removing the cap again and just topping the expansion tank after each cycle.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:42 AM

 
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




 


 
31
ULP +- - $ 1.47   98  + - $ 1.56 or there abouts.
 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: plander@optusnet.com.au
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 08:03:55 +1100
Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 
Has petrol gone up?

I haven't bought any this year.

> Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Phill, great news from Port. ALDI store is well under way and
> opening in August ! The money we save there easily pays for the petrol
> hike. Hart
>
>
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: plander@optusnet.com.au
> Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 07:52:45 +1100
> Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I just hate people that just replace coils and spark plug leads with
> cheap unreliable ones. Most mechanics do not understand VW spark plug
> leads.
>
> > Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> >
> Lots of people mess up their vans by just replacing parts I think.
> It's not in the parts, it's in the workmanship and diagnosis.
>
>
>
>

32
$1.56 !!!!!!!

That'll mean that my fuel bill will be over $50 for this year!



> Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> ULP +- - $ 1.47 98 + - $ 1.56 or there abouts.
>
>
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: plander@optusnet.com.au
> Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 08:03:55 +1100
> Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Has petrol gone up?
>
> I haven't bought any this year.
>
> > Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Phill, great news from Port. ALDI store is well under way and
> > opening in August ! The money we save there easily pays for the petrol
>
> > hike. Hart
> >
> >
> >
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > From: plander@optusnet.com.au
> > Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 07:52:45 +1100
> > Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I just hate people that just replace coils and spark plug leads with
> > cheap unreliable ones. Most mechanics do not understand VW spark plug
> > leads.
> >
> > > Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> > >
> > Lots of people mess up their vans by just replacing parts I think.
> > It's not in the parts, it's in the workmanship and diagnosis.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
33
I think this morning when I took off the blue cap the level was a bit below, the top, ie just at the bottom of the threaded portion but can't be sure so i will check in a minute as i have to move it and it will be cold.

I think i must have topped up the expansion tank when it was hot last time because when cold the level in the expansion tank is above the line.

If it was over full wouldn't that compensate for any contraction? Could it be the valve that controls the water returning to the header tank not opening when cooling, although that must be the cap?

I have the old black one maybe i should swap that back.



On 10/03/2011, at 10:57 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 

Yes it will rise and fall but if during cool down (when the cap sucks in coolant from the expansion tank to compensate for the contracting coolant in the pressurised system) the cap sucks in air then you will end up with a air pocket in the header. If you take off the blue cap when the engine is stone cold is it full to the brim? If not it is either sucking air or has not been bled properly. If it is not overheating  and not loosing coolant try not removing the cap again and just topping the expansion tank after each cycle.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:42 AM

 
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




 


 


34

I checked my height as well, as I put in OME’s and I also have an additional spacer. Height from wheel to fender is about 150 mm.

 

The front is the same height but I am suspicious that IU have got T3 springs as it is a bit “soft” at the front.

 

Peter from Port

 

35
It is the cap that does this. Did you have this symtom before you did any work?

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 11:13 AM

 
I think this morning when I took off the blue cap the level was a bit below, the top, ie just at the bottom of the threaded portion but can't be sure so i will check in a minute as i have to move it and it will be cold.

I think i must have topped up the expansion tank when it was hot last time because when cold the level in the expansion tank is above the line.

If it was over full wouldn't that compensate for any contraction? Could it be the valve that controls the water returning to the header tank not opening when cooling, although that must be the cap?

I have the old black one maybe i should swap that back.



On 10/03/2011, at 10:57 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Yes it will rise and fall but if during cool down (when the cap sucks in coolant from the expansion tank to compensate for the contracting coolant in the pressurised system) the cap sucks in air then you will end up with a air pocket in the header. If you take off the blue cap when the engine is stone cold is it full to the brim? If not it is either sucking air or has not been bled properly. If it is not overheating  and not loosing coolant try not removing the cap again and just topping the expansion tank after each cycle.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:42 AM

 
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




 


 


 
36
No, i'll go out in a minute and check the cap. I assume water should be coming out of the header when i loosen from cold and be at the brim then?



On 10/03/2011, at 12:14 PM, greg esposito wrote:

 

It is the cap that does this. Did you have this symtom before you did any work?

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 11:13 AM

 
I think this morning when I took off the blue cap the level was a bit below, the top, ie just at the bottom of the threaded portion but can't be sure so i will check in a minute as i have to move it and it will be cold.

I think i must have topped up the expansion tank when it was hot last time because when cold the level in the expansion tank is above the line.

If it was over full wouldn't that compensate for any contraction? Could it be the valve that controls the water returning to the header tank not opening when cooling, although that must be the cap?

I have the old black one maybe i should swap that back.



On 10/03/2011, at 10:57 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Yes it will rise and fall but if during cool down (when the cap sucks in coolant from the expansion tank to compensate for the contracting coolant in the pressurised system) the cap sucks in air then you will end up with a air pocket in the header. If you take off the blue cap when the engine is stone cold is it full to the brim? If not it is either sucking air or has not been bled properly. If it is not overheating  and not loosing coolant try not removing the cap again and just topping the expansion tank after each cycle.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:42 AM

 
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




 


 


 


37
I always fill the pressure bottle to the tippy-top ...
anytime it wil take more ....I top it right up ..
An exception to that is eventually , it may be normal for there to be up to an inch air space there..
which is fine.
But in the intial few days .....take it right to the tippy top cold.
 
the blue caps ..
those are known for not being 100 % reliable ...always carry a spare.
When it's working right ..it will push the extra coolant ( from expansion due to higher temp ) into the license plate overflow bottle....
then suck the extra back when things cool down again.
 
I fill the overflow license plate bottle right to the bottom of the filler hole...which tecnically is above the max line.
( some air may work it's way out ..so having it a bit high there does not hurt )
the only thing that can happen ..
is if it's really really hot ..we had a day that was 105 F here one time ..
and the extra coolant in the overflow bottle will spew out the vent hole in the top of the overflow bottle..
if you don't know to watch for that ..
you might think there's a problem ...but there isn't really.
 
and it's also very normal for coolant to slowly dissappear out of the overflow bottle too ..
I see many T3 vans that do that. Like half a cup a month.  I commonly find them empty even.
 
it's rare to be a problem ..but make sure the hose  from overflow bottle to blue cap isn't clogged or restricted ...and the hole in the bottom of the overflow bottle for that hose is clear also.
 
for the sake of clarity ..
I use the terms 'pressure bottle' and overflow / license plate bottle ...
no confusion there ..
as one has the pressure cap on it ..
and one catches and retains the overflow .
 
'expansion' bottle is a bit ambiguous to me.  That could mean either bottle..as they both accomodate expansion in a way.
 
scott
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

No, i'll go out in a minute and check the cap. I assume water should be coming out of the header when i loosen from cold and be at the brim then?




On 10/03/2011, at 12:14 PM, greg esposito wrote:

 

It is the cap that does this. Did you have this symtom before you did any work?

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 11:13 AM

 
I think this morning when I took off the blue cap the level was a bit below, the top, ie just at the bottom of the threaded portion but can't be sure so i will check in a minute as i have to move it and it will be cold.

I think i must have topped up the expansion tank when it was hot last time because when cold the level in the expansion tank is above the line.

If it was over full wouldn't that compensate for any contraction? Could it be the valve that controls the water returning to the header tank not opening when cooling, although that must be the cap?

I have the old black one maybe i should swap that back.



On 10/03/2011, at 10:57 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Yes it will rise and fall but if during cool down (when the cap sucks in coolant from the expansion tank to compensate for the contracting coolant in the pressurised system) the cap sucks in air then you will end up with a air pocket in the header. If you take off the blue cap when the engine is stone cold is it full to the brim? If not it is either sucking air or has not been bled properly. If it is not overheating  and not loosing coolant try not removing the cap again and just topping the expansion tank after each cycle.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:42 AM

 
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




 


 


 


38
Scott all as per my understanding, thanks for clarifying.

Greg - I just went out to the van, removed the pipe between pressure tank and overflow bottle at the pressure tank end. Slackened the blue cap and there was water under pressure there as i released the cap. The engine wasn't stone cold but hadn't been run for 2 hrs.

I had filled the overflow bottle a little over and it remains at that level so not loosing any coolant. It suggests all working as it should be to me. I drove it for 15 mins and the gauge came up to temp as normal.

To answer your question I think i started this whole exercise because I started getting the blinkies so that's when i decided to flush the cooling system. It could have been fine as it was and this is an electrical problem.

The water in there pre flush was a bit rusty but i put this down to it probably not having any antifreeze in it. There was no discernible colour to it ie purple or green like you'd expect. It's an iron block on the diesel.

Not sure where to go next?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 12:54 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I always fill the pressure bottle to the tippy-top ...
anytime it wil take more ....I top it right up ..
An exception to that is eventually , it may be normal for there to be up to an inch air space there..
which is fine.
But in the intial few days .....take it right to the tippy top cold.
 
the blue caps ..
those are known for not being 100 % reliable ...always carry a spare.
When it's working right ..it will push the extra coolant ( from expansion due to higher temp ) into the license plate overflow bottle....
then suck the extra back when things cool down again.
 
I fill the overflow license plate bottle right to the bottom of the filler hole...which tecnically is above the max line.
( some air may work it's way out ..so having it a bit high there does not hurt )
the only thing that can happen ..
is if it's really really hot ..we had a day that was 105 F here one time ..
and the extra coolant in the overflow bottle will spew out the vent hole in the top of the overflow bottle..
if you don't know to watch for that ..
you might think there's a problem ...but there isn't really.
 
and it's also very normal for coolant to slowly dissappear out of the overflow bottle too ..
I see many T3 vans that do that. Like half a cup a month.  I commonly find them empty even.
 
it's rare to be a problem ..but make sure the hose  from overflow bottle to blue cap isn't clogged or restricted ...and the hole in the bottom of the overflow bottle for that hose is clear also.
 
for the sake of clarity ..
I use the terms 'pressure bottle' and overflow / license plate bottle ...
no confusion there ..
as one has the pressure cap on it ..
and one catches and retains the overflow .
 
'expansion' bottle is a bit ambiguous to me.  That could mean either bottle..as they both accomodate expansion in a way.
 
scott
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

No, i'll go out in a minute and check the cap. I assume water should be coming out of the header when i loosen from cold and be at the brim then?




On 10/03/2011, at 12:14 PM, greg esposito wrote:

 

It is the cap that does this. Did you have this symtom before you did any work?

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 11:13 AM

 
I think this morning when I took off the blue cap the level was a bit below, the top, ie just at the bottom of the threaded portion but can't be sure so i will check in a minute as i have to move it and it will be cold.

I think i must have topped up the expansion tank when it was hot last time because when cold the level in the expansion tank is above the line.

If it was over full wouldn't that compensate for any contraction? Could it be the valve that controls the water returning to the header tank not opening when cooling, although that must be the cap?

I have the old black one maybe i should swap that back.



On 10/03/2011, at 10:57 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Yes it will rise and fall but if during cool down (when the cap sucks in coolant from the expansion tank to compensate for the contracting coolant in the pressurised system) the cap sucks in air then you will end up with a air pocket in the header. If you take off the blue cap when the engine is stone cold is it full to the brim? If not it is either sucking air or has not been bled properly. If it is not overheating  and not loosing coolant try not removing the cap again and just topping the expansion tank after each cycle.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:42 AM

 
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




 


 


 





39
hi Gary ..
a diesel all this time eh ?
ok..
but on any car, at any time of the year ..
pure water is a big no-no.
can cause all kinds of damage, slowly yes...but real damage .
 
got a Bentley manual ?
what do they say about testing on the LED blinking thing ?
 
try what I suggest ...jumper it with a resistor , just to see if that stops it.
you could have a problem in the control unit for that level sensor ..
or even the temp gauge , I think.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Scott all as per my understanding, thanks for clarifying.


Greg - I just went out to the van, removed the pipe between pressure tank and overflow bottle at the pressure tank end. Slackened the blue cap and there was water under pressure there as i released the cap. The engine wasn't stone cold but hadn't been run for 2 hrs.

I had filled the overflow bottle a little over and it remains at that level so not loosing any coolant. It suggests all working as it should be to me. I drove it for 15 mins and the gauge came up to temp as normal.

To answer your question I think i started this whole exercise because I started getting the blinkies so that's when i decided to flush the cooling system. It could have been fine as it was and this is an electrical problem.

The water in there pre flush was a bit rusty but i put this down to it probably not having any antifreeze in it. There was no discernible colour to it ie purple or green like you'd expect. It's an iron block on the diesel.

Not sure where to go next?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 12:54 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I always fill the pressure bottle to the tippy-top ...
anytime it wil take more ....I top it right up ..
An exception to that is eventually , it may be normal for there to be up to an inch air space there..
which is fine.
But in the intial few days .....take it right to the tippy top cold.
 
the blue caps ..
those are known for not being 100 % reliable ...always carry a spare.
When it's working right ..it will push the extra coolant ( from expansion due to higher temp ) into the license plate overflow bottle....
then suck the extra back when things cool down again.
 
I fill the overflow license plate bottle right to the bottom of the filler hole...which tecnically is above the max line.
( some air may work it's way out ..so having it a bit high there does not hurt )
the only thing that can happen ..
is if it's really really hot ..we had a day that was 105 F here one time ..
and the extra coolant in the overflow bottle will spew out the vent hole in the top of the overflow bottle..
if you don't know to watch for that ..
you might think there's a problem ...but there isn't really.
 
and it's also very normal for coolant to slowly dissappear out of the overflow bottle too ..
I see many T3 vans that do that. Like half a cup a month.  I commonly find them empty even.
 
it's rare to be a problem ..but make sure the hose  from overflow bottle to blue cap isn't clogged or restricted ...and the hole in the bottom of the overflow bottle for that hose is clear also.
 
for the sake of clarity ..
I use the terms 'pressure bottle' and overflow / license plate bottle ...
no confusion there ..
as one has the pressure cap on it ..
and one catches and retains the overflow .
 
'expansion' bottle is a bit ambiguous to me.  That could mean either bottle..as they both accomodate expansion in a way.
 
scott
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

No, i'll go out in a minute and check the cap. I assume water should be coming out of the header when i loosen from cold and be at the brim then?




On 10/03/2011, at 12:14 PM, greg esposito wrote:

 

It is the cap that does this. Did you have this symtom before you did any work?

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 11:13 AM

 
I think this morning when I took off the blue cap the level was a bit below, the top, ie just at the bottom of the threaded portion but can't be sure so i will check in a minute as i have to move it and it will be cold.

I think i must have topped up the expansion tank when it was hot last time because when cold the level in the expansion tank is above the line.

If it was over full wouldn't that compensate for any contraction? Could it be the valve that controls the water returning to the header tank not opening when cooling, although that must be the cap?

I have the old black one maybe i should swap that back.



On 10/03/2011, at 10:57 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Yes it will rise and fall but if during cool down (when the cap sucks in coolant from the expansion tank to compensate for the contracting coolant in the pressurised system) the cap sucks in air then you will end up with a air pocket in the header. If you take off the blue cap when the engine is stone cold is it full to the brim? If not it is either sucking air or has not been bled properly. If it is not overheating  and not loosing coolant try not removing the cap again and just topping the expansion tank after each cycle.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:42 AM

 
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary




 


 


 





40
The mighty 1.6TD ;), shouldn't make any difference re the cooling system bleeding approach though.

Yes understood re pure water, only guessing it was plain water just took a while to get to that job, there's a big list!

I just read a whole heap of similar electrical problems on the samba cause by a capacitor in the controller behind the dash going bad.

Not sure the Bentley has anything beyond the bleeding procedure, I did read that first but have read so many other approaches and tried them I can only conclude an electrical issue now.

Thanks again, will look for a resistor quick fix tonight and then go camping!

Gary



On 10/03/2011, at 2:00 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

hi Gary ..
a diesel all this time eh ?
ok..
but on any car, at any time of the year ..
pure water is a big no-no.
can cause all kinds of damage, slowly yes...but real damage .
 
got a Bentley manual ?
what do they say about testing on the LED blinking thing ?
 
try what I suggest ...jumper it with a resistor , just to see if that stops it.
you could have a problem in the control unit for that level sensor ..
or even the temp gauge , I think.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Scott all as per my understanding, thanks for clarifying.


Greg - I just went out to the van, removed the pipe between pressure tank and overflow bottle at the pressure tank end. Slackened the blue cap and there was water under pressure there as i released the cap. The engine wasn't stone cold but hadn't been run for 2 hrs.

I had filled the overflow bottle a little over and it remains at that level so not loosing any coolant. It suggests all working as it should be to me. I drove it for 15 mins and the gauge came up to temp as normal.

To answer your question I think i started this whole exercise because I started getting the blinkies so that's when i decided to flush the cooling system. It could have been fine as it was and this is an electrical problem.

The water in there pre flush was a bit rusty but i put this down to it probably not having any antifreeze in it. There was no discernible colour to it ie purple or green like you'd expect. It's an iron block on the diesel.

Not sure where to go next?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 12:54 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I always fill the pressure bottle to the tippy-top ...
anytime it wil take more ....I top it right up ..
An exception to that is eventually , it may be normal for there to be up to an inch air space there..
which is fine.
But in the intial few days .....take it right to the tippy top cold.
 
the blue caps ..
those are known for not being 100 % reliable ...always carry a spare.
When it's working right ..it will push the extra coolant ( from expansion due to higher temp ) into the license plate overflow bottle....
then suck the extra back when things cool down again.
 
I fill the overflow license plate bottle right to the bottom of the filler hole...which tecnically is above the max line.
( some air may work it's way out ..so having it a bit high there does not hurt )
the only thing that can happen ..
is if it's really really hot ..we had a day that was 105 F here one time ..
and the extra coolant in the overflow bottle will spew out the vent hole in the top of the overflow bottle..
if you don't know to watch for that ..
you might think there's a problem ...but there isn't really.
 
and it's also very normal for coolant to slowly dissappear out of the overflow bottle too ..
I see many T3 vans that do that. Like half a cup a month.  I commonly find them empty even.
 
it's rare to be a problem ..but make sure the hose  from overflow bottle to blue cap isn't clogged or restricted ...and the hole in the bottom of the overflow bottle for that hose is clear also.
 
for the sake of clarity ..
I use the terms 'pressure bottle' and overflow / license plate bottle ...
no confusion there ..
as one has the pressure cap on it ..
and one catches and retains the overflow .
 
'expansion' bottle is a bit ambiguous to me.  That could mean either bottle..as they both accomodate expansion in a way.
 
scott
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

No, i'll go out in a minute and check the cap. I assume water should be coming out of the header when i loosen from cold and be at the brim then?




On 10/03/2011, at 12:14 PM, greg esposito wrote:

 

It is the cap that does this. Did you have this symtom before you did any work?

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 11:13 AM

 
I think this morning when I took off the blue cap the level was a bit below, the top, ie just at the bottom of the threaded portion but can't be sure so i will check in a minute as i have to move it and it will be cold.

I think i must have topped up the expansion tank when it was hot last time because when cold the level in the expansion tank is above the line.

If it was over full wouldn't that compensate for any contraction? Could it be the valve that controls the water returning to the header tank not opening when cooling, although that must be the cap?

I have the old black one maybe i should swap that back.



On 10/03/2011, at 10:57 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Yes it will rise and fall but if during cool down (when the cap sucks in coolant from the expansion tank to compensate for the contracting coolant in the pressurised system) the cap sucks in air then you will end up with a air pocket in the header. If you take off the blue cap when the engine is stone cold is it full to the brim? If not it is either sucking air or has not been bled properly. If it is not overheating  and not loosing coolant try not removing the cap again and just topping the expansion tank after each cycle.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:42 AM

 
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?

Gary

On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:

 
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.

--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM

 
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.

I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was. 

When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.

However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.

I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.

I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.

With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?

The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.

Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?

Grrr

Gary


On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:

 

I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.
 that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.
 
or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.
I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies

 

Hi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.

I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.

I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.

I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator  bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.

So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.

Any ideas?

Gary