there's gizmo on the back of the instrument cluster called the Voltage
Stabilizer ..
I like to have a spare one of those just to try for any gauge
weirdness.
very easy to replace.
----- Original Message -----From: Gary CooksonSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:10 PMSubject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The BlinkiesThe mighty 1.6TD ;), shouldn't make any difference re the cooling system bleeding approach though.
Yes understood re pure water, only guessing it was plain water just took a while to get to that job, there's a big list!I just read a whole heap of similar electrical problems on the samba cause by a capacitor in the controller behind the dash going bad.Not sure the Bentley has anything beyond the bleeding procedure, I did read that first but have read so many other approaches and tried them I can only conclude an electrical issue now.Thanks again, will look for a resistor quick fix tonight and then go camping!Gary
On 10/03/2011, at 2:00 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
hi Gary ..a diesel all this time eh ?ok..but on any car, at any time of the year ..pure water is a big no-no.can cause all kinds of damage, slowly yes...but real damage .got a Bentley manual ?what do they say about testing on the LED blinking thing ?try what I suggest ...jumper it with a resistor , just to see if that stops it.you could have a problem in the control unit for that level sensor ..or even the temp gauge , I think.----- Original Message -----From: Gary CooksonSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 6:25 PMSubject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The BlinkiesScott all as per my understanding, thanks for clarifying.
Greg - I just went out to the van, removed the pipe between pressure tank and overflow bottle at the pressure tank end. Slackened the blue cap and there was water under pressure there as i released the cap. The engine wasn't stone cold but hadn't been run for 2 hrs.I had filled the overflow bottle a little over and it remains at that level so not loosing any coolant. It suggests all working as it should be to me. I drove it for 15 mins and the gauge came up to temp as normal.To answer your question I think i started this whole exercise because I started getting the blinkies so that's when i decided to flush the cooling system. It could have been fine as it was and this is an electrical problem.The water in there pre flush was a bit rusty but i put this down to it probably not having any antifreeze in it. There was no discernible colour to it ie purple or green like you'd expect. It's an iron block on the diesel.Not sure where to go next?Gary
On 10/03/2011, at 12:54 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
I always fill the pressure bottle to the tippy-top ...anytime it wil take more ....I top it right up ..An exception to that is eventually , it may be normal for there to be up to an inch air space there..which is fine.But in the intial few days .....take it right to the tippy top cold.the blue caps ..those are known for not being 100 % reliable ...always carry a spare.When it's working right ..it will push the extra coolant ( from expansion due to higher temp ) into the license plate overflow bottle....then suck the extra back when things cool down again.I fill the overflow license plate bottle right to the bottom of the filler hole...which tecnically is above the max line.( some air may work it's way out ..so having it a bit high there does not hurt )the only thing that can happen ..is if it's really really hot ..we had a day that was 105 F here one time ..and the extra coolant in the overflow bottle will spew out the vent hole in the top of the overflow bottle..if you don't know to watch for that ..you might think there's a problem ...but there isn't really.and it's also very normal for coolant to slowly dissappear out of the overflow bottle too ..I see many T3 vans that do that. Like half a cup a month. I commonly find them empty even.it's rare to be a problem ..but make sure the hose from overflow bottle to blue cap isn't clogged or restricted ...and the hole in the bottom of the overflow bottle for that hose is clear also.for the sake of clarity ..I use the terms 'pressure bottle' and overflow / license plate bottle ...no confusion there ..as one has the pressure cap on it ..and one catches and retains the overflow .'expansion' bottle is a bit ambiguous to me. That could mean either bottle..as they both accomodate expansion in a way.scott----- Original Message -----From: Gary CooksonSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 5:18 PMSubject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The BlinkiesNo, i'll go out in a minute and check the cap. I assume water should be coming out of the header when i loosen from cold and be at the brim then?
On 10/03/2011, at 12:14 PM, greg esposito wrote:
It is the cap that does this. Did you have this symtom before you did any work?
--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:
From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 11:13 AM
I think this morning when I took off the blue cap the level was a bit below, the top, ie just at the bottom of the threaded portion but can't be sure so i will check in a minute as i have to move it and it will be cold.I think i must have topped up the expansion tank when it was hot last time because when cold the level in the expansion tank is above the line.If it was over full wouldn't that compensate for any contraction? Could it be the valve that controls the water returning to the header tank not opening when cooling, although that must be the cap?I have the old black one maybe i should swap that back.On 10/03/2011, at 10:57 AM, greg esposito wrote:
Yes it will rise and fall but if during cool down (when the cap sucks in coolant from the expansion tank to compensate for the contracting coolant in the pressurised system) the cap sucks in air then you will end up with a air pocket in the header. If you take off the blue cap when the engine is stone cold is it full to the brim? If not it is either sucking air or has not been bled properly. If it is not overheating and not loosing coolant try not removing the cap again and just topping the expansion tank after each cycle.
--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:
From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:42 AM
Hi Greg, yes, connecting up after each top up. It seems logical the level would rise and fall a little with expansion though?Gary
On 10/03/2011, at 10:34 AM, greg esposito wrote:
Gary are you reconnecting the hose between the header and the expansion tank during cool down. I find it takes one or two cycles of having the system sealed to get the level in the expansion tank to stay at a level.
--- On Thu, 10/3/11, Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net> wrote:
From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The Blinkies
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 10 March, 2011, 10:11 AM
Right guys, thanks for responses, much appreciated.I sensibly hadn't thrown out the old sender, just thrown out the bit of my brain that new where it was.When I flushed the cooling system i noticed the o ring had gone hard and square edged. Rather than try to find an o ring I thought a new sender was in order. I know what you mean about cheap parts but the new one is genuine vw with the correct part no.However, put the old sender in this morning, topped up the water while revving, put on cap. Switch off. Start up on tickover light goes out. Rev slightly - blinkies again.I drove it to work, temperature gauge within range, no overheating so seems to be working fine apart from the light.I carefully squeezed the connectors in the plug to make sure they were tight but it's all clean in there and the light does go out so i think it must just be air in there somewhere or some other electrical fault.With the expansion tank cap off even high revs only make the level go down to just below the cap. This wouldn't happen if i'm just raising the revs a touch would it?The level in the expansion tank does go down a bit while warm and returns to the original level when cold. When I open the radiator bleed the water runs clear with no bubbles.Scott when you say the pressure bottle you mean the one in the engine bay? So do you top up with the engine running?GrrrGary
On 10/03/2011, at 7:40 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
I get just fine results with topping up the coolant in the pressure bottle after every warm-up/cool-down cycle .......for about 5 cycles.that is if low coolant in that bottle when revved is what's turning on the warning light.or try the old sender. I only replace those if there is a real reason.I don't even many new parts are as well made as the older ones were.Scott----- Original Message -----From: Gary CooksonSent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 2:01 AMSubject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] The BlinkiesHi all, need some help, have a bad case of the blinkies. Temperature red light flashing that is.I drained and flushed my cooling system through because it had not been done for some time.I put a new sender in the header tank because the prongs looked a bit yuck and a new blue cap.I put 3 bottles of g12 ++ into the header tank and then filled up with water. I opened the radiator bleed and topped off the header until it ran clear with no bubbles. Revved to approx 2000 rpm and kept topping up the header until it would take no more, bled and repeat. Im puttting on the blue cap at 2000rpm or so while the water level has dropped. Connected up expansion tank pipe, filled expansion tank started etc. Engine starts and runs up to temperature as normal, fan comes on.So does the pesky red light all the time. From cold the light will go out when starting as it should but as soon as I raise the revs it comes on. Start warm and it's on all the time.Any ideas?Gary