Stalling Engine

Hello all,

I also have problem with my Digifant setup.The engine starts all
right and the idle is ok. However when I drive off it feels a bit
jerky for a better word, and when I have to stop, the engine stalls.
It also runs very,very rich. I did some electrical testing as per Bentley.
The Temp.Sensor 1 & 2, Air Flow Sensor, Oxygen Sensor, Throttle
Switch all good. I have booked the Van in for next week I hope they
can fix whatever needs to be done.
PS I see myself more and more looking at other options.

Cheers, Theo
Join the club bro

I love my kombi spent over 45 k and my 1200 63 beetle would poo all over it.

I'm wondering If should try 1 last attempt and fit a aftermarket ecu ....

Or there is my r32 vr6 sitting in my engine stand and then there's my ez30r Subaru 6 currently getting stoned and a final tune.


Sent from my iPhone

On 28/07/2013, at 5:22 PM, Theo Weiss <teows@melbpc.org.au> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I also have problem with my Digifant setup.The engine starts all
> right and the idle is ok. However when I drive off it feels a bit
> jerky for a better word, and when I have to stop, the engine stalls.
> It also runs very,very rich. I did some electrical testing as per Bentley.
> The Temp.Sensor 1 & 2, Air Flow Sensor, Oxygen Sensor, Throttle
> Switch all good. I have booked the Van in for next week I hope they
> can fix whatever needs to be done.
> PS I see myself more and more looking at other options.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Correction dynoed not stoned.
Bldy spell check.

Sent from my iPhone

On 28/07/2013, at 7:35 PM, HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

> Join the club bro
>
> I love my kombi spent over 45 k and my 1200 63 beetle would poo all over it.
>
> I'm wondering If should try 1 last attempt and fit a aftermarket ecu ....
>
> Or there is my r32 vr6 sitting in my engine stand and then there's my ez30r Subaru 6 currently getting stoned and a final tune.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 28/07/2013, at 5:22 PM, Theo Weiss <teows@melbpc.org.au> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I also have problem with my Digifant setup.The engine starts all
>> right and the idle is ok. However when I drive off it feels a bit
>> jerky for a better word, and when I have to stop, the engine stalls.
>> It also runs very,very rich. I did some electrical testing as per Bentley.
>> The Temp.Sensor 1 & 2, Air Flow Sensor, Oxygen Sensor, Throttle
>> Switch all good. I have booked the Van in for next week I hope they
>> can fix whatever needs to be done.
>> PS I see myself more and more looking at other options.
>>
>> Cheers, Theo
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Was that a Freudian slip there Hamish?

Anyway what's money - cant take it with you!

Cheers,

Skot

On 28/07/2013 7:41 PM, HamishD wrote:
 

Correction dynoed not stoned.
Bldy spell check.

Sent from my iPhone

On 28/07/2013, at 7:35 PM, HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

> Join the club bro
>
> I love my kombi spent over 45 k and my 1200 63 beetle would poo all over it.
>
> I'm wondering If should try 1 last attempt and fit a aftermarket ecu ....
>
> Or there is my r32 vr6 sitting in my engine stand and then there's my ez30r Subaru 6 currently getting stoned and a final tune.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 28/07/2013, at 5:22 PM, Theo Weiss <teows@melbpc.org.au> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I also have problem with my Digifant setup.The engine starts all
>> right and the idle is ok. However when I drive off it feels a bit
>> jerky for a better word, and when I have to stop, the engine stalls.
>> It also runs very,very rich. I did some electrical testing as per Bentley.
>> The Temp.Sensor 1 & 2, Air Flow Sensor, Oxygen Sensor, Throttle
>> Switch all good. I have booked the Van in for next week I hope they
>> can fix whatever needs to be done.
>> PS I see myself more and more looking at other options.
>>
>> Cheers, Theo
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


I have a arthritis condition .... Already got both hips replaced.... Kinda like to stop working on it.

Sent from my iPhone

On 28/07/2013, at 7:54 PM, spbconsulting@bigpond.com wrote:

Was that a Freudian slip there Hamish?

Anyway what's money - cant take it with you!

Cheers,

Skot

On 28/07/2013 7:41 PM, HamishD wrote:
 

Correction dynoed not stoned.
Bldy spell check.

Sent from my iPhone

On 28/07/2013, at 7:35 PM, HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

> Join the club bro
>
> I love my kombi spent over 45 k and my 1200 63 beetle would poo all over it.
>
> I'm wondering If should try 1 last attempt and fit a aftermarket ecu ....
>
> Or there is my r32 vr6 sitting in my engine stand and then there's my ez30r Subaru 6 currently getting stoned and a final tune.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 28/07/2013, at 5:22 PM, Theo Weiss <teows@melbpc.org.au> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I also have problem with my Digifant setup.The engine starts all
>> right and the idle is ok. However when I drive off it feels a bit
>> jerky for a better word, and when I have to stop, the engine stalls.
>> It also runs very,very rich. I did some electrical testing as per Bentley.
>> The Temp.Sensor 1 & 2, Air Flow Sensor, Oxygen Sensor, Throttle
>> Switch all good. I have booked the Van in for next week I hope they
>> can fix whatever needs to be done.
>> PS I see myself more and more looking at other options.
>>
>> Cheers, Theo
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


  Ninety percent of problems are caused by a bad earth.

  Five minutes spent cleaning the earth connections might solve all your problems. Do it once a year, or more often if you drive on the beach.

  Add an extra earth strap from one cylinder head to the other.

  Short circuits in the ignition system and plug wires can be seen if you lift the engine lid on a dark night. 

  If that doesn't work, get some 'contact cleaner', emery paper, a small wire brush and a set of fine files, and gently clean every connection in the engine bay and battery compartment.

  Closely examine every wire and connector for breaks and insulation cracks.
 
  Check every vacuum hose for leaks.

  Grab the multimeter and the Bentleys Manual and check every component.

  Or buy a VanCafe 8691V diagnosis kit. It's a ripper, and can be left permanently attached for diagnosis on the run.

  The throttle position switch is a notorious offender, as is the water temperature sender.

  Recondition and re-shim the distributor every five or ten years. It's a simple job that takes about an hour.

  Four or five hours in the shed should sort it all out.

                                                                   Good luck - Roger Beetle

 

 

Hi Theo,
when the going gets tough, never ever give up !!!!! Most of us Syncro nuts have gone through this and resurfaced just like the Syncro going through it all and is coming out he other end...

Options , ? what could there be ? maybe a Rockton ? Too small to camp in. T5 ? Too long, too low, even more difficult / costly to fix. Or selling the home and getting a MAN truck and a fit-out like the guy who is folding 1$ (US) bills into artworx

There has been so much REAL advice on this on the last few posts, you can't fail, maybe don't be so academic, don't analyse the temp sender, just stick a new one in.

I know somehow you won't give up..
Hartmut



On 28/07/2013, at 5:22 PM, Theo Weiss wrote:

 

Hello all,

I also have problem with my Digifant setup.The engine starts all
right and the idle is ok. However when I drive off it feels a bit
jerky for a better word, and when I have to stop, the engine stalls.
It also runs very,very rich. I did some electrical testing as per Bentley.
The Temp.Sensor 1 & 2, Air Flow Sensor, Oxygen Sensor, Throttle
Switch all good. I have booked the Van in for next week I hope they
can fix whatever needs to be done.
PS I see myself more and more looking at other options.

Cheers, Theo


Roger B.

Thanks for your advise. I did most of the things you suggested over the weekend. Mind you, I won't thrust myself.
I also have the 8691V  ecu monitor but no hint what could be wrong.
I am really getting a bit worried now as what could be the cause..
I also have the dual-piston smallcar kit installed but no braided hose.
So far, no need to slam on the brakes
I also bought a spare set of pads from Burson Auto Parts. People think I am driving an Audi.
How do I check for vacuum leaks?

Cheers,Theo



t 11:51 AM 29/07/2013, you wrote:
 

  Ninety percent of problems are caused by a bad earth.

  Five minutes spent cleaning the earth connections might solve all your problems. Do it once a year, or more often if you drive on the beach.


 






                                                                   Good luck - Roger Beetle

 

 


Hartmut,

Thanks for the encouraging words, but at times the Syncro can really test our commitment.

Theo


At 05:40 PM 29/07/2013, you wrote:
 

Hi Theo,
when the going gets tough, never ever give up !!!!! Most of us Syncro nuts have gone through this and resurfaced just like the Syncro going through it all and is coming out he other end...

Options , ? what could there be ? maybe a Rockton ? Too small to camp in. T5 ? Too long, too low, even more difficult / costly to fix. Or selling the home and getting a MAN truck and a fit-out like the guy who is folding 1$ (US) bills into artworx

There has been so much REAL advice on this on the last few posts, you can't fail, maybe don't be so academic, don't analyse the temp sender, just stick a new one in.

I know somehow you won't give up..
Hartmut



On 28/07/2013, at 5:22 PM, Theo Weiss wrote:

 

Hello all,

I also have problem with my Digifant setup.The engine starts all
right and the idle is ok. However when I drive off it feels a bit
jerky for a better word, and when I have to stop, the engine stalls.
It also runs very,very rich. I did some electrical testing as per Bentley.
The Temp.Sensor 1 & 2, Air Flow Sensor, Oxygen Sensor, Throttle
Switch all good. I have booked the Van in for next week I hope they
can fix whatever needs to be done.
PS I see myself more and more looking at other options.

Cheers, Theo


Thanks for the advice about the brakes. I have contacted 'Smallcar' in the U.S. for a shipping quote on a 'big brake kit', but it will probably be cheaper to source the parts locally and follow David Marshall's instructions on Syncro.ca.

  Do a visual on the vacuum hoses first - if they are perished, split or swollen, replace them.

  You can buy or hire a vacuum pump, and watch the gauge to see if the component holds vacuum, but because we are talking low pressures you can do it the old fashioned way; if you can suck a thick-shake through a straw, you can suck hard enough to emulate engine vacuum.

  Just remove each hose, plug one end with your finger, and suck to see if it leaks.

  Have a packet of lifesavers handy to cover the aftertaste.

  Take off the dissie cap and suck on the hose to the vacuum advance unit. The distributor base-plate should swivel several millimetres. 

  To test for leaks in the vacuum brake-booster circuit, run the engine, then switch off and make several applications of the footbrake. If all is well, you should have enough vacuum stored in the booster for two or three brake applications before you notice a change in the feel of the pedal.

  I'd still be suspecting that pesky temperature sensor.

  I assume that you've already checked out the spark plugs, leads, dissy cap, rotor button, and compression.

  If you really get stuck the best thing to do is swap components from another vehicle until you isolate the culprit. Do you have anyone local to do that with?

  I had a similar problem with a mate's T3. Took us ages to discover that one of the low-tension wires to the distributor was broken, and making intermittent contact.

  Vic Brkovic told me of a customer's car that faltered occasionally when negotiating speed humps. He had a lot of keys on his keyring, and when they swung like a pendulum the ignition cut in and out. A new ignition barrell and a few less keys solved it.

                                     Keep me posted.
                                                                   Roger Beetle


 

Dear Hartmut,

Am 29.07.2013 09:40, schrieb Hartmut:

Options , ? what could there be ? maybe a Rockton ? Too small to camp in.

The new Rockton Terock with long wheel base maybe? http://www.vw-bulli.de/no-cache/de/news/nachrichten/nachrichten-detailansicht/article/luxus-t5-mit-langem-radstand.html Sorry for pointing to another German article, but thought maybe the pictures might be worth having a look at. Maybe one of the German speaking group members would like to translate the article content into English? I could also do it if people like to, but this would have to wait until my holidays in about two weeks then...

I would agree: there does not seem to be an alternative to our much loved T3 syncros

Joachim
South-West Germany
translation
 
From: Joachim Dietlicher <joachimdietlicher@email.de>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 31 July 2013 3:27 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Stalling Engine
 
Dear Hartmut,

Am 29.07.2013 09:40, schrieb Hartmut:
 

Options , ? what could there be ? maybe a Rockton ? Too small to camp in.
The new Rockton Terock with long wheel base maybe? http://www.vw-bulli.de/no-cache/de/news/nachrichten/nachrichten-detailansicht/article/luxus-t5-mit-langem-radstand.html Sorry for pointing to another German article, but thought maybe the pictures might be worth having a look at. Maybe one of the German speaking group members would like to translate the article content into English? I could also do it if people like to, but this would have to wait until my holidays in about two weeks then... I would agree: there does not seem to be an alternative to our much loved T3 syncros Joachim South-West Germany
The translated concluding paragraph of the article states:

The luxury has its price

As base vehicles for the Terock expansion of Terra campers can next to the Rockton, each wagon, with front wheel drive or 4Motion all-wheel drive, are used. Prices range from 42,600 EUR (base van with front-wheel drive, 62 kW) and 49,900 euros (Basic Transporter 4Motion). Based on a VW T5 Rockton Terra Camper Terock is to have from 55,900 euros, the price for the long wheelbase version is € 43,800. The vehicle shown has the two-liter TDI (132 kW / 180 PS) DSG, Climatic, RNS510, two-tone metallic paint, leather seats, park distance control front rear, a rear camera and a solar system.

Also installed are a VB Airsuspension (height-adjustable air spring suspension with auto level), a water heater (with underfloor heating) and a shower tent at the rear. This highly luxurious amenities, the total price of the Terock added with long wheelbase to 110,000 euros.


In todays money, that's a mere AU$145,758. Add local compliance & shipping and local dealer charges/onroad costs etc ... pick a $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ number!!


Reckon the T3 is good to go for a long time yet!

Ken




To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: joachimdietlicher@email.de
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 19:27:17 +0200
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Stalling Engine

 
Dear Hartmut,


Am 29.07.2013 09:40, schrieb Hartmut:
 

Options , ? what could there be ? maybe a Rockton ? Too small to camp in.

The new Rockton Terock with long wheel base maybe? http://www.vw-bulli.de/no-cache/de/news/nachrichten/nachrichten-detailansicht/article/luxus-t5-mit-langem-radstand.html Sorry for pointing to another German article, but thought maybe the pictures might be worth having a look at. Maybe one of the German speaking group members would like to translate the article content into English? I could also do it if people like to, but this would have to wait until my holidays in about two weeks then...

I would agree: there does not seem to be an alternative to our much loved T3 syncros

Joachim
South-West Germany

Ken,

Today I had a trial run my old AFM. The screws are certainly very
tight. The first one came out ok, the second one the head broke off,
the third one I stripped the head but I got it out. I was using a
soldering iron which obviously has not enough heat. So I bought a
fine gas torch
and capacitor for the real job. I moved the circuit board a bit to
find a clean track but the numbers did not change much.
Does any one know what they should be? The Bentley only states " move
air flow sensor - change in resistance".
At the moment I can't go for a drive,the gas people are digging holes
in the driveway. At least an easier job than the oil or water pump.

Cheers, Theo
Try playing with the spring tension of the flap in the afm. Over time it loosens up a bit. Does it idle rough on gas too?. I know with my system the afm has nothing to do with running on gas, and idles very smooth whilst on gas. Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Today I had a trial run my old AFM. The screws are certainly very
> tight. The first one came out ok, the second one the head broke off,
> the third one I stripped the head but I got it out. I was using a
> soldering iron which obviously has not enough heat. So I bought a
> fine gas torch
> and capacitor for the real job. I moved the circuit board a bit to
> find a clean track but the numbers did not change much.
> Does any one know what they should be? The Bentley only states " move
> air flow sensor - change in resistance".
> At the moment I can't go for a drive,the gas people are digging holes
> in the driveway. At least an easier job than the oil or water pump.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>
Eddie,

I have no issue with idles. After the van's been to the VW work shop the engine stalling has been fixed, see previous email.
However the engine still runs very rich - you can smell it. Also the Innovate Motor sports gauge shows 9-11 Lambda in normal driving.
The mechanic reckons the AFM is faulty. I have tried to repair the AFM shifting the circuit board so the wiper has a new track.
All this as per Ken's suggestion, but it didn't make any difference. I really would like a good working AFM to try on my van to find
out if the AFM is actually faulty, any takers?

Cheers, Theo


At 08:23 AM 1/08/2013, you wrote:
 

Try playing with the spring tension of the flap in the afm. Over time it loosens up a bit. Does it idle rough on gas too?. I know with my system the afm has nothing to do with running on gas, and idles very smooth whilst on gas. Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Today I had a trial run my old AFM. The screws are certainly very
> tight. The first one came out ok, the second one the head broke off,
> the third one I stripped the head but I got it out. I was using a
> soldering iron which obviously has not enough heat. So I bought a
> fine gas torch
> and capacitor for the real job. I moved the circuit board a bit to
> find a clean track but the numbers did not change much.
> Does any one know what they should be? The Bentley only states " move
> air flow sensor - change in resistance".
> At the moment I can't go for a drive,the gas people are digging holes
> in the driveway. At least an easier job than the oil or water pump.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>


Theo, You can grab mine on Saturday morning. We could even swap them and see if your fault changes to my bus. I will be kid wrangling between 11&1pm so those times are out. I have "fiddled" with mine to get the best air fuel ratio I can to suit the 2.4 capacity but there is no reason it won't work on yours. Just thought I should let you know it is not a standard unit. Greg E

From: Theo Weiss <teows@melbpc.org.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 1 August 2013 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re:Stalling Engine
 
Eddie,

I have no issue with idles. After the van's been to the VW work shop the engine stalling has been fixed, see previous email.
However the engine still runs very rich - you can smell it. Also the Innovate Motor sports gauge shows 9-11 Lambda in normal driving.
The mechanic reckons the AFM is faulty. I have tried to repair the AFM shifting the circuit board so the wiper has a new track.
All this as per Ken's suggestion, but it didn't make any difference. I really would like a good working AFM to try on my van to find
out if the AFM is actually faulty, any takers?

Cheers, Theo


At 08:23 AM 1/08/2013, you wrote:
 

Try playing with the spring tension of the flap in the afm. Over time it loosens up a bit. Does it idle rough on gas too?. I know with my system the afm has nothing to do with running on gas, and idles very smooth whilst on gas. Eddie.

--- In mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia%40yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Today I had a trial run my old AFM. The screws are certainly very
> tight. The first one came out ok, the second one the head broke off,
> the third one I stripped the head but I got it out. I was using a
> soldering iron which obviously has not enough heat. So I bought a
> fine gas torch
> and capacitor for the real job. I moved the circuit board a bit to
> find a clean track but the numbers did not change much.
> Does any one know what they should be? The Bentley only states " move
> air flow sensor - change in resistance".
> At the moment I can't go for a drive,the gas people are digging holes
> in the driveway. At least an easier job than the oil or water pump.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>

What is your air fuel ratio gauge reading when on gas?


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Eddie,
>
> I have no issue with idles. After the van's been
> to the VW work shop the engine stalling has been fixed, see previous email.
> However the engine still runs very rich - you can
> smell it. Also the Innovate Motor sports gauge
> shows 9-11 Lambda in normal driving.
> The mechanic reckons the AFM is faulty. I have
> tried to repair the AFM shifting the circuit
> board so the wiper has a new track.
> All this as per Ken's suggestion, but it didn't
> make any difference. I really would like a good
> working AFM to try on my van to find
> out if the AFM is actually faulty, any takers?
>
> Cheers, Theo
>
>
> At 08:23 AM 1/08/2013, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >Try playing with the spring tension of the flap
> >in the afm. Over time it loosens up a bit. Does
> >it idle rough on gas too?. I know with my system
> >the afm has nothing to do with running on gas,
> >and idles very smooth whilst on gas. Eddie.
> >
> >--- In
> ><mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia%40yahoogroups.com>Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,
> >Theo Weiss <teows@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ken,
> > >
> > > Today I had a trial run my old AFM. The screws are certainly very
> > > tight. The first one came out ok, the second one the head broke off,
> > > the third one I stripped the head but I got it out. I was using a
> > > soldering iron which obviously has not enough heat. So I bought a
> > > fine gas torch
> > > and capacitor for the real job. I moved the circuit board a bit to
> > > find a clean track but the numbers did not change much.
> > > Does any one know what they should be? The Bentley only states " move
> > > air flow sensor - change in resistance".
> > > At the moment I can't go for a drive,the gas people are digging holes
> > > in the driveway. At least an easier job than the oil or water pump.
> > >
> > > Cheers, Theo
> > >
> >
> >
>
Greg,
Thank's for the offer, how about 9am would that be ok and your address please.Mine is also a 2.4.
Theo



At 08:13 AM 2/08/2013, you wrote:
 

Theo, You can grab mine on Saturday morning. We could even swap them and see if your fault changes to my bus. I will be kid wrangling between 11&1pm so those times are out. I have "fiddled" with mine to get the best air fuel ratio I can to suit the 2.4 capacity but there is no reason it won't work on yours. Just thought I should let you know it is not a standard unit. Greg E

From: Theo Weiss <teows@melbpc.org.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 1 August 2013 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re:Stalling Engine
 
Eddie,

I have no issue with idles. After the van's been to the VW work shop the engine stalling has been fixed, see previous email.
However the engine still runs very rich - you can smell it. Also the Innovate Motor sports gauge shows 9-11 Lambda in normal driving.
The mechanic reckons the AFM is faulty. I have tried to repair the AFM shifting the circuit board so the wiper has a new track.
All this as per Ken's suggestion, but it didn't make any difference. I really would like a good working AFM to try on my van to find
out if the AFM is actually faulty, any takers?

Cheers, Theo


At 08:23 AM 1/08/2013, you wrote:
 

Try playing with the spring tension of the flap in the afm. Over time it loosens up a bit. Does it idle rough on gas too?. I know with my system the afm has nothing to do with running on gas, and idles very smooth whilst on gas. Eddie.

--- In mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia%40yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Today I had a trial run my old AFM. The screws are certainly very
> tight. The first one came out ok, the second one the head broke off,
> the third one I stripped the head but I got it out. I was using a
> soldering iron which obviously has not enough heat. So I bought a
> fine gas torch
> and capacitor for the real job. I moved the circuit board a bit to
> find a clean track but the numbers did not change much.
> Does any one know what they should be? The Bentley only states " move
> air flow sensor - change in resistance".
> At the moment I can't go for a drive,the gas people are digging holes
> in the driveway. At least an easier job than the oil or water pump.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>

Eddie,
Much the same.
Theo



At 10:47 AM 2/08/2013, you wrote:
 

What is your air fuel ratio gauge reading when on gas?

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Eddie,
>
> I have no issue with idles. After the van's been
> to the VW work shop the engine stalling has been fixed, see previous email.
> However the engine still runs very rich - you can
> smell it. Also the Innovate Motor sports gauge
> shows 9-11 Lambda in normal driving.
> The mechanic reckons the AFM is faulty. I have
> tried to repair the AFM shifting the circuit
> board so the wiper has a new track.
> All this as per Ken's suggestion, but it didn't
> make any difference. I really would like a good
> working AFM to try on my van to find
> out if the AFM is actually faulty, any takers?
>
> Cheers, Theo
>
>
> At 08:23 AM 1/08/2013, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >Try playing with the spring tension of the flap
> >in the afm. Over time it loosens up a bit. Does
> >it idle rough on gas too?. I know with my system
> >the afm has nothing to do with running on gas,
> >and idles very smooth whilst on gas. Eddie.
> >
> >--- In
> >< mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia%40yahoogroups.com > Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,
> >Theo Weiss <teows@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ken,
> > >
> > > Today I had a trial run my old AFM. The screws are certainly very
> > > tight. The first one came out ok, the second one the head broke off,
> > > the third one I stripped the head but I got it out. I was using a
> > > soldering iron which obviously has not enough heat. So I bought a
> > > fine gas torch
> > > and capacitor for the real job. I moved the circuit board a bit to
> > > find a clean track but the numbers did not change much.
> > > Does any one know what they should be? The Bentley only states " move
> > > air flow sensor - change in resistance".
> > > At the moment I can't go for a drive,the gas people are digging holes
> > > in the driveway. At least an easier job than the oil or water pump.
> > >
> > > Cheers, Theo
> > >
> >
> >
>