Wheels/Tyres

21
Besides having the correct contour on the lugnuts, you MUST have 7.5 complete turns for safe engagement according to everything I've ever read from VW and Audi. It's not just a matter of your safety but others as well.

Perhaps it's a question of semantics but I take your statement "...about 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank..." to mean that only 2 threads can be engaged. In the US and Europe, VW offered alloy wheels at the same time as steel wheels w/o having to change studs by using a 60 degree tapered cone seat lugnuts. That permits the conical section to have threads as well. So as even though there are less threads in the "hex part" as you wrote, the conical portion plus the hex section together make up more than the requisite 7.5 thread engagement.

Lugnuts in combination with washers would not be the same as a single piece lugnut as the washer has no threads and no threads to contribute to actually holding the wheel in place.



Cheers,

BenT


sent from my electronic leash

On Nov 27, 2011, at 3:56 PM, "Anette" <peterw1000@gmail.com> wrote:

> Phill, Yes they have a rounded top or cap however the mag when placed on the hub only allows about 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank. Perhaps there are thinner washers and this would get 3 more threads into the hex ?
> Its actually that the stud does not make it out far enough to purchase into the hex part of the nut so dont think it would matter what nut you used it would still not reach the hex so only relying on the shank???????? In a bag from burwin volkswagen Regards Pete
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>>
>> I need to see what your nuts look like.
>>
>> It sounds like the old style round shaft type with a washer. Is that correct?
>>
>> Phill
>>
>>
>>> However the nut setup is wrong in my opinion and these mags should be
>>> fitted with the longer stud kit as the first time i removed them all to
>>> check breakes etc the nuts appeared to break on removal and refit
>>> process about 3 from memory. However the van came with a bag of spare
>>> nuts so i believe this problem arose prior therefore the bag of spare
>>> nuts.
>>> On close examination the stud only tightens on the sleve of the nut and
>>> is not long enough to get purchase on the hex part ??? This causes it to
>>> fail and neatly crack perfectly where the hex meets the shank.
>>> Has anyone else noticed this and if so what did you do ?????
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
22
I had that problem once. Thinner washers fixed it.

Phill



> Anette <peterw1000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Phill, Yes they have a rounded top or cap however the mag when placed on
> the hub only allows about 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank.
> Perhaps there are thinner washers and this would get 3 more threads into
> the hex ?
> Its actually that the stud does not make it out far enough to purchase
> into the hex part of the nut so dont think it would matter what nut you
> used it would still not reach the hex so only relying on the
> shank???????? In a bag from burwin volkswagen Regards Pete
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
> >
> > I need to see what your nuts look like.
> >
> > It sounds like the old style round shaft type with a washer. Is that
> correct?
> >
> > Phill
> >
> >
> > > However the nut setup is wrong in my opinion and these mags should
> be
> > > fitted with the longer stud kit as the first time i removed them all
> to
> > > check breakes etc the nuts appeared to break on removal and refit
> > > process about 3 from memory. However the van came with a bag of
> spare
> > > nuts so i believe this problem arose prior therefore the bag of
> spare
> > > nuts.
> > > On close examination the stud only tightens on the sleve of the nut
> and
> > > is not long enough to get purchase on the hex part ??? This causes
> it to
> > > fail and neatly crack perfectly where the hex meets the shank.
> > > Has anyone else noticed this and if so what did you do ?????
> >
23
Not cone or ball type Ben.

Phill



> BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Besides having the correct contour on the lugnuts, you MUST have 7.5
> complete turns for safe engagement according to everything I've ever
> read from VW and Audi. It's not just a matter of your safety but others
> as well.
>
> Perhaps it's a question of semantics but I take your statement "...about
> 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank..." to mean that only 2
> threads can be engaged. In the US and Europe, VW offered alloy wheels at
> the same time as steel wheels w/o having to change studs by using a 60
> degree tapered cone seat lugnuts. That permits the conical section to
> have threads as well. So as even though there are less threads in the
> "hex part" as you wrote, the conical portion plus the hex section
> together make up more than the requisite 7.5 thread engagement.
>
> Lugnuts in combination with washers would not be the same as a single
> piece lugnut as the washer has no threads and no threads to contribute
> to actually holding the wheel in place.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> BenT
>
>
> sent from my electronic leash
>
> On Nov 27, 2011, at 3:56 PM, "Anette" <peterw1000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Phill, Yes they have a rounded top or cap however the mag when placed
> on the hub only allows about 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank.
> Perhaps there are thinner washers and this would get 3 more threads into
> the hex ?
> > Its actually that the stud does not make it out far enough to purchase
> into the hex part of the nut so dont think it would matter what nut you
> used it would still not reach the hex so only relying on the
> shank???????? In a bag from burwin volkswagen Regards Pete
> >
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
> >>
> >> I need to see what your nuts look like.
> >>
> >> It sounds like the old style round shaft type with a washer. Is that
> correct?
> >>
> >> Phill
> >>
> >>
> >>> However the nut setup is wrong in my opinion and these mags should
> be
> >>> fitted with the longer stud kit as the first time i removed them all
> to
> >>> check breakes etc the nuts appeared to break on removal and refit
> >>> process about 3 from memory. However the van came with a bag of
> spare
> >>> nuts so i believe this problem arose prior therefore the bag of
> spare
> >>> nuts.
> >>> On close examination the stud only tightens on the sleve of the nut
> and
> >>> is not long enough to get purchase on the hex part ??? This causes
> it to
> >>> fail and neatly crack perfectly where the hex meets the shank.
> >>> Has anyone else noticed this and if so what did you do ?????
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
24
Ahh... betting they are flat Aussie washers. We used to have them on older American hotrod wheels such as those made by Cragar. My solution to older wheels is to have them machined to a cone seat. On thinner alloys, I use steel inserts such as those found on 60's-70's era MB alloy wheels. It's often more trouble than fitting longer studs. Or in your case, thinner washers if they are available. Recontouring the holes permits use of more easily sourced hardware.


BenT

sent from my electronic leash

On Nov 27, 2011, at 4:16 PM, plander@optusnet.com.au wrote:

> Not cone or ball type Ben.
>
> Phill
>
>
>
>> BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Besides having the correct contour on the lugnuts, you MUST have 7.5
>> complete turns for safe engagement according to everything I've ever
>> read from VW and Audi. It's not just a matter of your safety but others
>> as well.
>>
>> Perhaps it's a question of semantics but I take your statement "...about
>> 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank..." to mean that only 2
>> threads can be engaged. In the US and Europe, VW offered alloy wheels at
>> the same time as steel wheels w/o having to change studs by using a 60
>> degree tapered cone seat lugnuts. That permits the conical section to
>> have threads as well. So as even though there are less threads in the
>> "hex part" as you wrote, the conical portion plus the hex section
>> together make up more than the requisite 7.5 thread engagement.
>>
>> Lugnuts in combination with washers would not be the same as a single
>> piece lugnut as the washer has no threads and no threads to contribute
>> to actually holding the wheel in place.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> BenT
>>
>>
>> sent from my electronic leash
>>
>> On Nov 27, 2011, at 3:56 PM, "Anette" <peterw1000@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Phill, Yes they have a rounded top or cap however the mag when placed
>> on the hub only allows about 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank.
>> Perhaps there are thinner washers and this would get 3 more threads into
>> the hex ?
>>> Its actually that the stud does not make it out far enough to purchase
>> into the hex part of the nut so dont think it would matter what nut you
>> used it would still not reach the hex so only relying on the
>> shank???????? In a bag from burwin volkswagen Regards Pete
>>>
>>> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I need to see what your nuts look like.
>>>>
>>>> It sounds like the old style round shaft type with a washer. Is that
>> correct?
>>>>
>>>> Phill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> However the nut setup is wrong in my opinion and these mags should
>> be
>>>>> fitted with the longer stud kit as the first time i removed them all
>> to
>>>>> check breakes etc the nuts appeared to break on removal and refit
>>>>> process about 3 from memory. However the van came with a bag of
>> spare
>>>>> nuts so i believe this problem arose prior therefore the bag of
>> spare
>>>>> nuts.
>>>>> On close examination the stud only tightens on the sleve of the nut
>> and
>>>>> is not long enough to get purchase on the hex part ??? This causes
>> it to
>>>>> fail and neatly crack perfectly where the hex meets the shank.
>>>>> Has anyone else noticed this and if so what did you do ?????
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
25
Ben, Yes they do get the 7.5 prob more like 10 threads however the problem as i see it is the stud ends roughly where the washer meets the hex therefore the wall thicknes of the spigot is all that the nut is relying on maybe plus a thread or 2 depending on the washer thicknes. This creats some stress in the corner where the hex meets the machined shank causing the failure.
I believe the issue is from day one as the car has been very well cared for and the Tracker conversion was fitted from new.
WHO HAS HAD THE WHEEL NUT BREAK ON REMOVAL OR REPLACEMENT ON THEIR TRACKKER MAGS?????????????????? Best Regards Pete

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, BenT Syncro <syncro@...> wrote:
>
> Besides having the correct contour on the lugnuts, you MUST have 7.5 complete turns for safe engagement according to everything I've ever read from VW and Audi. It's not just a matter of your safety but others as well.
>
> Perhaps it's a question of semantics but I take your statement "...about 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank..." to mean that only 2 threads can be engaged. In the US and Europe, VW offered alloy wheels at the same time as steel wheels w/o having to change studs by using a 60 degree tapered cone seat lugnuts. That permits the conical section to have threads as well. So as even though there are less threads in the "hex part" as you wrote, the conical portion plus the hex section together make up more than the requisite 7.5 thread engagement.
>
> Lugnuts in combination with washers would not be the same as a single piece lugnut as the washer has no threads and no threads to contribute to actually holding the wheel in place.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> BenT
>
>
> sent from my electronic leash
>
> On Nov 27, 2011, at 3:56 PM, "Anette" <peterw1000@...> wrote:
>
> > Phill, Yes they have a rounded top or cap however the mag when placed on the hub only allows about 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank. Perhaps there are thinner washers and this would get 3 more threads into the hex ?
> > Its actually that the stud does not make it out far enough to purchase into the hex part of the nut so dont think it would matter what nut you used it would still not reach the hex so only relying on the shank???????? In a bag from burwin volkswagen Regards Pete
> >
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@ wrote:
> >>
> >> I need to see what your nuts look like.
> >>
> >> It sounds like the old style round shaft type with a washer. Is that correct?
> >>
> >> Phill
> >>
> >>
> >>> However the nut setup is wrong in my opinion and these mags should be
> >>> fitted with the longer stud kit as the first time i removed them all to
> >>> check breakes etc the nuts appeared to break on removal and refit
> >>> process about 3 from memory. However the van came with a bag of spare
> >>> nuts so i believe this problem arose prior therefore the bag of spare
> >>> nuts.
> >>> On close examination the stud only tightens on the sleve of the nut and
> >>> is not long enough to get purchase on the hex part ??? This causes it to
> >>> fail and neatly crack perfectly where the hex meets the shank.
> >>> Has anyone else noticed this and if so what did you do ?????
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
26

Pete,

This is a serious safety matter and it needs clear pictures to illustrate what you are asking about.

If you are talking about a hex nut that has an extended sleeve, the threads in the sleeve are not load bearing.  A hundred threads in the sleeve adds nothing; only the threads in the nut count. 

The general engineering principle is to have a minimum thread of 1.5D, where D is the diameter of the thread.  Less than 1.5D can be acceptable depending on other circumstances.  

Put up some pics of the nuts, the nut profile where it meets the wheel and how much thread is available clear of the wheel with the wheel in place.  If I have read you properly, what you have got is the worst possible case.

Les

27
Hey Pete,

Based solely on the diagrams Phill provided, I do not see how the "spigot" as you refer to the portion of the nut which extends through the wheelAsian accurately center the wheel as a well as a tapered nut.

With regards to secure attachment, I could not tell if there are any threads on the "spigot" section based solely on the illustration. If they are threaded, it would appear there is enough material in there to get the requisite 7.5 turns. If the threads start only in the hex section, then it's like playing Russian roulette with your wheels.:-)



BenT

sent from my electronic leash

On Nov 27, 2011, at 7:22 PM, "Anette" <peterw1000@gmail.com> wrote:

> Ben, Yes they do get the 7.5 prob more like 10 threads however the problem as i see it is the stud ends roughly where the washer meets the hex therefore the wall thicknes of the spigot is all that the nut is relying on maybe plus a thread or 2 depending on the washer thicknes. This creats some stress in the corner where the hex meets the machined shank causing the failure.
> I believe the issue is from day one as the car has been very well cared for and the Tracker conversion was fitted from new.
> WHO HAS HAD THE WHEEL NUT BREAK ON REMOVAL OR REPLACEMENT ON THEIR TRACKKER MAGS?????????????????? Best Regards Pete
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, BenT Syncro <syncro@...> wrote:
>>
>> Besides having the correct contour on the lugnuts, you MUST have 7.5 complete turns for safe engagement according to everything I've ever read from VW and Audi. It's not just a matter of your safety but others as well.
>>
>> Perhaps it's a question of semantics but I take your statement "...about 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank..." to mean that only 2 threads can be engaged. In the US and Europe, VW offered alloy wheels at the same time as steel wheels w/o having to change studs by using a 60 degree tapered cone seat lugnuts. That permits the conical section to have threads as well. So as even though there are less threads in the "hex part" as you wrote, the conical portion plus the hex section together make up more than the requisite 7.5 thread engagement.
>>
>> Lugnuts in combination with washers would not be the same as a single piece lugnut as the washer has no threads and no threads to contribute to actually holding the wheel in place.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> BenT
>>
>>
>> sent from my electronic leash
>>
>> On Nov 27, 2011, at 3:56 PM, "Anette" <peterw1000@...> wrote:
>>
>>> Phill, Yes they have a rounded top or cap however the mag when placed on the hub only allows about 2 threads to clear the hole for the shank. Perhaps there are thinner washers and this would get 3 more threads into the hex ?
>>> Its actually that the stud does not make it out far enough to purchase into the hex part of the nut so dont think it would matter what nut you used it would still not reach the hex so only relying on the shank???????? In a bag from burwin volkswagen Regards Pete
>>>
>>> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@ wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I need to see what your nuts look like.
>>>>
>>>> It sounds like the old style round shaft type with a washer. Is that correct?
>>>>
>>>> Phill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> However the nut setup is wrong in my opinion and these mags should be
>>>>> fitted with the longer stud kit as the first time i removed them all to
>>>>> check breakes etc the nuts appeared to break on removal and refit
>>>>> process about 3 from memory. However the van came with a bag of spare
>>>>> nuts so i believe this problem arose prior therefore the bag of spare
>>>>> nuts.
>>>>> On close examination the stud only tightens on the sleve of the nut and
>>>>> is not long enough to get purchase on the hex part ??? This causes it to
>>>>> fail and neatly crack perfectly where the hex meets the shank.
>>>>> Has anyone else noticed this and if so what did you do ?????
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
28

The word spigot in this context is a correct engineering term and covers a cylindrical form that fits inside another cylindrical form to centre one part on another part.

No amount of threads in the spigot section contributes to the holding power; it is only the threads above the washer that hold anything.  

If what you have got is a couple of millimetres of thread in the nut portion, it is a fatality waiting to pounce.

Les

 

_,_._,___

29
Les,

Interesting that I am not able to find any reference to the term "spigot" beyond a faucet or valve of some sort to control flow. I looked up the definitions online both in British English and American English.;-)



BenT

sent from my electronic leash

On Nov 27, 2011, at 8:48 PM, "Les Harris" <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

The word spigot in this context is a correct engineering term and covers a cylindrical form that fits inside another cylindrical form to centre one part on another part.

No amount of threads in the spigot section contributes to the holding power; it is only the threads above the washer that hold anything.  

If what you have got is a couple of millimetres of thread in the nut portion, it is a fatality waiting to pounce.

Les

 

_,_._,___

30

Ben,

The engineering use is there but it is limited largely to engineering.  When one part needs to be located on another part with zero movement, the spigot process is used. 

For example, if I give one of my tradesmen two lengths of pipe and ask them to spigot them together, he will turn a step in one and a recess in the other.  I can refine the instruction by asking for a loose fit, a neat fit or a drive fit but I do not need to explain what a ‘spigot’ is.  

You are right inasmuch that the word has one general meaning but it also has a specific engineering/workshop meaning.

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BenT Syncro
Sent: 28 November 2011 16:04
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Wheels/Tyres

 

Les,

 

Interesting that I am not able to find any reference to the term "spigot" beyond a faucet or valve of some sort to control flow. I looked up the definitions online both in British English and American English.;-)

 

BenT

,___

31
Les i cant put pics up yet as ive misplaced my SD card but dont worry the Syncro stays in the shed only driven monthle around the grassy slopes till the thermostat opens and the wheels get a turn. Came across the issue when i removed al the wheels and sent them out for a polish then checked the breaks etc.
I will be rectifying the issue in one of 3 ways i came up with
Replace the Mags
Fit longer studs
Machine the washer grove deeper <not really an option>
I believe the CSA mags fitted to Trakker have all been like this as
tere is no way the mag or the stud has been changed from Trakker?
Will try to get some pics soon
Thanks Mate Best Regards Pete

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Les Harris" <leslieharris@...> wrote:
>
> Pete,
>
> This is a serious safety matter and it needs clear pictures to illustrate
> what you are asking about.
>
> If you are talking about a hex nut that has an extended sleeve, the threads
> in the sleeve are not load bearing. A hundred threads in the sleeve adds
> nothing; only the threads in the nut count.
>
> The general engineering principle is to have a minimum thread of 1.5D, where
> D is the diameter of the thread. Less than 1.5D can be acceptable depending
> on other circumstances.
>
> Put up some pics of the nuts, the nut profile where it meets the wheel and
> how much thread is available clear of the wheel with the wheel in place. If
> I have read you properly, what you have got is the worst possible case.
>
> Les
>
32

Pete,

  • Replace the wheels: You have to find a wheel that accommodates the existing studs and has the correct offset
  • Fit longer studs: this is an OK solution so long as the studs are rolled, not machine cut
  • Machine the washer recess: if anything is to be machined, the preferable option, by a very long way, is the conical recess as shown in Phill’s diagram.  This provides centring of the wheel plus the maximum available of thread engagement.

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anette
Sent: 28 November 2011 16:58
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Wheels/Tyres

 

Les I cant put pics up yet as ive misplaced my SD card but dont worry the Syncro stays in the shed only driven monthle around the grassy slopes till the thermostat opens and the wheels get a turn. Came across the issue when i removed al the wheels and sent them out for a polish then checked the breaks etc.
I will be rectifying the issue in one of 3 ways i came up with
Replace the Mags
Fit longer studs
Machine the washer grove deeper <not really an option>
I believe the CSA mags fitted to Trakker have all been like this as
tere is no way the mag or the stud has been changed from Trakker?
Will try to get some pics soon
Thanks Mate Best Regards Pete


33
Pete,
A solution may be available here, unless Trakka has done something totally weird with their mag wheels and fasteners.
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: leslieharris@optusnet.com.au
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 17:10:42 +1100
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Wheels/Tyres

 

Pete,

  • Replace the wheels: You have to find a wheel that accommodates the existing studs and has the correct offset
  • Fit longer studs: this is an OK solution so long as the studs are rolled, not machine cut
  • Machine the washer recess: if anything is to be machined, the preferable option, by a very long way, is the conical recess as shown in Phill’s diagram.  This provides centring of the wheel plus the maximum available of thread engagement.

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anette
Sent: 28 November 2011 16:58
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Wheels/Tyres

 

Les I cant put pics up yet as ive misplaced my SD card but dont worry the Syncro stays in the shed only driven monthle around the grassy slopes till the thermostat opens and the wheels get a turn. Came across the issue when i removed al the wheels and sent them out for a polish then checked the breaks etc.
I will be rectifying the issue in one of 3 ways i came up with
Replace the Mags
Fit longer studs
Machine the washer grove deeper <not really an option>
I believe the CSA mags fitted to Trakker have all been like this as
tere is no way the mag or the stud has been changed from Trakker?
Will try to get some pics soon
Thanks Mate Best Regards Pete



34
Les sent some pics of the short thread issue but not from Yahoo did you
get them?

Had trouble cut and pasting to the Forum email

Is there an easy way to attach pics from my Pictures to the forum
response?

Regards Pete


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Les Harris"
<leslieharris@...> wrote:
>
> Pete,
>
> * Replace the wheels: You have to find a wheel that accommodates the
> existing studs and has the correct offset
> * Fit longer studs: this is an OK solution so long as the studs are
> rolled, not machine cut
> * Machine the washer recess: if anything is to be machined, the
> preferable option, by a very long way, is the conical recess as shown
in
> Phill's diagram. This provides centring of the wheel plus the maximum
> available of thread engagement.
>
> Les
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anette
> Sent: 28 November 2011 16:58
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Wheels/Tyres
>
>
>
> Les I cant put pics up yet as ive misplaced my SD card but dont worry
the
> Syncro stays in the shed only driven monthle around the grassy slopes
till
> the thermostat opens and the wheels get a turn. Came across the issue
when i
> removed al the wheels and sent them out for a polish then checked the
breaks
> etc.
> I will be rectifying the issue in one of 3 ways i came up with
> Replace the Mags
> Fit longer studs
> Machine the washer grove deeper <not really an option>
> I believe the CSA mags fitted to Trakker have all been like this as
> tere is no way the mag or the stud has been changed from Trakker?
> Will try to get some pics soon
> Thanks Mate Best Regards Pete
>
35

Pete,

No. 

We used to be able to attach pics through the forum many years ago but Yahoo changed the process.

Using your own email – sending and receiving group emails through your own ISP – you can both attach pictures (or any other form of attachment) and/or you can insert them in the text of the email as I sometimes do.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anette
Sent: 28 November 2011 18:19
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Wheels/Tyres


Les sent some pics of the short thread issue but not from Yahoo did you
get them?
Had trouble cut and pasting to the Forum email
Is there an easy way to attach pics from my Pictures to the forum response?
Regards Pete


36
Les send me an email to Peterw1000@gmail.com and i will send you the shots ? .............pete

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Les Harris" <leslieharris@...> wrote:
>
> Pete,
>
> No.
>
> We used to be able to attach pics through the forum many years ago but Yahoo
> changed the process.
>
> Using your own email - sending and receiving group emails through your own
> ISP - you can both attach pictures (or any other form of attachment) and/or
> you can insert them in the text of the email as I sometimes do.
>
> Les
>
> _____
>
> From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anette
> Sent: 28 November 2011 18:19
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Wheels/Tyres
>
>
> Les sent some pics of the short thread issue but not from Yahoo did you
> get them?
> Had trouble cut and pasting to the Forum email
> Is there an easy way to attach pics from my Pictures to the forum response?
> Regards Pete
>
37
Hi Ken ,
What would make the imported BFG illegal

Philippe

--
Philippe Tyack
Mobile:+61450059162
38

Pete,

I have received the pictures.

That arrangement is outright criminal. 

There is a snap through point immediately at the bottom of the flange or washer – can’t tell which it is – that tempts fate very seriously.   It’s one of these things that might remain intact for a lifetime and it might give way tomorrow.

In motor vehicle design, much care is taken to ensure that all vital parts are inherently safe; one always errs on the safe side.   This is inherently unsafe as opposed to inherently safe.

There is presumably nothing wrong with the wheels but there is everything wrong with the fastening arrangement.  The only safe path is to switch to taper nuts and re-engineer the wheels accordingly.  I cannot tell from the pictures (very out of focus) if there are thread inserts in the wheel or not and this dictates what can be done to the wheel.

If they are inserts, it needs to be determined if they are big enough to accept a taper for tapered seat wheel nuts.   If they aren’t big enough, it would need new and bigger inserts.

Les

 

39

Sorry, I left off a paragraph!

The studs shown in the picture are too short to allow for taper seat nuts.   A minimum of 1.5D engagement is desirable.

The two available alternatives are:

  1. replace the studs
  2. re-machine the wheel deeper if it is safe to do so.

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les Harris
Sent: 28 November 2011 21:51
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Wheels/Tyres 

Pete,

I have received the pictures.

That arrangement is outright criminal. 

There is a snap through point immediately at the bottom of the flange or washer – can’t tell which it is – that tempts fate very seriously.   It’s one of these things that might remain intact for a lifetime and it might give way tomorrow.

In motor vehicle design, much care is taken to ensure that all vital parts are inherently safe; one always errs on the safe side.   This is inherently unsafe as opposed to inherently safe.

There is presumably nothing wrong with the wheels but there is everything wrong with the fastening arrangement.  The only safe path is to switch to taper nuts and re-engineer the wheels accordingly.  I cannot tell from the pictures (very out of focus) if there are thread inserts in the wheel or not and this dictates what can be done to the wheel.

If they are inserts, it needs to be determined if they are big enough to accept a taper for tapered seat wheel nuts.   If they aren’t big enough, it would need new and bigger inserts.

Les

 

40
Philippe,
You've lost me. Please explain?
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: philtyack@gmail.com
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 17:48:41 +0800
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Wheels/Tyres

 
Hi Ken ,
What would make the imported  BFG  illegal

Philippe

--
Philippe Tyack
Mobile:+61450059162