G'day Ken
I bought the Gowesty coolant pipe repair kit but I wasn't impressed. The metal sleeve was inserted in the rubber hose which was slipped back over the damaged plastic pipe until they butted together, and secured with two hose clamps. [see http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=113 ]. I took it down to the radiator and muffler shop for some expert advice and they weren't impressed either. The only dubious advantage was that it offered rigidity to the connection, but didn't re-inforce the broken plastic pipe or replace the rusted steel insert.
We weren't game to tighten the hose clamp onto a brittle plastic pipe without a steel insert. I reckon that the Gowesty repair kit is a light and compact bit of gear that could be carried in case of emergency, but I would only rely on it as a temporary repair. However if you have had a good run with it Ken then it couldn't be too bad.
We came up with a simple solution that worked well. We just removed the old steel insert, found some muffler pipe that fit, and expanded one end of it to the same O.D. as the plastic pipe. It was about 60 mm long. We pushed the narrow end into the plastic pipe, slipped the rubber hose over the big end and attached it with two clamps - one on the steel, the other on the reinforced plastic.
This system could be used to replace any length of damaged plastic pipe. I now carry a spare length that can be cut down to suit. It might come in handy as a donger one day.
Stainless steel is preferred, but mild steel will get you out of trouble. Copper, brass or aluminium will also do.
If you don't have access to a muffler shop with a pipe expander you could braize or solder a sleeve around the insert pipe.
Garry from the radiator & muffler centre is a sheet-metal worker by trade and will make stainless steel pipes like those offered on overseas web sites, using my 4WD or 2WD T3 pipes as a pattern, but we are still looking for someone who can sell or lend us a bead roller small enough to fit 1 1/4" pipe. This is necessary to form the lip at the end of the pipe so the hose clamp can't slip off. If anyone has access to a bead roller we could probably do a job lot.
Garry has made custom coolant pipes for marine applications, and reccommends 304 food-grade s/steel for durability.
I was talking to Adrian Muller a while ago and he was organising a local supplier for s/s pipes.
Does anybody have any feedback on the stainless steel pipes? Are there any downsides? Do they need insulation in extreme climates?
By the way, when replacing hoses on plastic pipe make sure the inserts are seated properly. I found out the hard way when I glanced at the temp gauge while climbing a steep grade in G gear with a full load on board. I was surprised to see the needle dropping. The coolant level had dropped below the temp. sender in the radiator, and fooled it completely. We pulled over with steam gushing out of the rear wheel arch on the driver's side. When it cooled down it looked like the hose junction was securely clamped, but I had clamped the insert, which slipped out of the pipe. Doh!
When I eventually replaced the bulging hose [from the black plastic distribution box that lives at the corner of the engine compartment nearest the driver's seat to the outside plastic pipe, part number 251 121 102], I had to find something else to fit; they weren't available. It seems that everyone has worked out that you don't need to pay fifty bucks for a factory hose with a slight bend in the end when a straight bit will do. I bought some 1 1/4" [32 mm] hose for less than $10. If you're really fussy you could make the steel insert described above with a slight bend in it.
Cheers for now, Roger [Beetle] Bayley.